Appliance Spares
Quick answer: This is for anyone whose washing machine has stopped mid-life and wants to know what has broken. Across every brand sold in Australia the same handful of parts fail: the drain pump, the door seal, the suspension (shock absorbers or rods), the drum bearings and the small switches that tell the machine what is happening. Oz Appliance Spares stocks them in Australia and dispatches from Sydney the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). Matching the model number on the sticker is what matters, not the brand.
Last updated September 2026
Start with the symptom, not the brand
It is Sunday night, the front loader has stopped with a tub full of water and tomorrow’s school uniforms are in it. A washer that quits at six or seven years old is rarely dead. It has lost one part, the same part every other machine of its type loses. Water on the floor is a door seal. A top loader that fills, hums and goes quiet is a lid switch. A spin like a jet taxiing is bearings.
Find your symptom in the table before you look up your brand. Each row names the usual culprit and links a live example from a brand we stock.
| What you’re seeing | What it usually is | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Stops full of water, or drains at a trickle | Drain pump blocked by a coin or bra wire, or dead | Hisense Washing Machine Drain Pump HWF8012 HWFM8012 HWFY8514 |
 Water on the floor in front of a front loader | Door seal split, perished or holed | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1 |
 Front loader bangs on spin; drum drops when pushed | Shock absorbers gone soft | Haier Front Loader Washing Machine Shock Absorber |
 Top loader walks or slams the cabinet on spin | Suspension rods stretched or damper cups worn | 4 x Samsung Washing Machine Suspension Rod Kit WA11M8700GV/SA WA11M8700GW/SA |
 Rumble or grind that grows as the spin winds up | Drum bearings and lip seal (check the spider too) | Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH1060S1 WH1060P1, WH1260P1, WH1260F1, WH1160F2, WH1160FG2, WH1160HG1 |
 Won’t fill, fills slowly, or fills when switched off | Inlet valve blocked, burnt out or stuck open | Samsung Washing Machine Water Inlet Valve WA85N6750BW/SA, WA85N6750BV/SA |
 Lint all over dark clothes every wash | Lint filter cracked, missing or clogged solid | CHiQ Top Load Washing Machine Lint Filter WTL65FDW WTL79FDB WTL80FDW |
 Fills and drains but the drum never turns; motor hums | Motor carbon brushes worn out (older belt-drive machines), or a slipped belt | Samsung Washing Machine Motor Carbon Brush Pair WF1752WPW, WF1752WPC, WF1804WPC |
 Overfills, underfills, or won’t spin with water in the drum | Pressure switch (or its hose) has lost the plot | Samsung Washing Machine Pressure Switch WF7708N6W1 |
 Top loader fills then stops, or says the lid is open when it’s shut | Lid switch broken, or the lid actuator snapped | Whirlpool Washing Machine Lid Switch (Round Pins) |
Longer guides: not draining; matching a drain pump; door seal replacement; suspension rods and shock absorbers; inlet valves; pressure switch; lid switch; carbon brushes.
Three faults the table leaves out
Door won’t open, or won’t lock. On a front loader that is the door interlock, the electric latch behind the catch. Never bypass it; the drum spins at over a thousand revolutions a minute behind that glass. Our door interlock walkthrough shows the job on a Euromaid; most budget front loaders are built the same way.
Rust streaks on clothes plus a grinding spin. Usually bearings, but on Samsung front loaders the aluminium spider carrying the drum corrodes and cracks, and the two sound alike. The spider or bearings guide shows how to tell and why repairers replace both. The Samsung Washing Machine Spider Shaft WW75H5400EW/SA WW80J4413IW/SA fits those two models.
Top loader agitates but won’t spin. On older LG top loaders that is the clutch under the tub: the LG Washing Machine Clutch Assembly WF-T6571, WF-T6572, WF-T750 covers three common ones.
Control boards are left out on purpose: the part people guess at, and the part least often at fault. Fit one after diagnosis, not before.
Washing machine parts by brand
Every brand has a fault it is known for. Brands with a guide link to it; for the rest, browse the full washing machine parts range.
- Fisher & Paykel: WashSmart and QuickSmart top loaders wear lip seals and bearings; WH front loaders split door seals. Start at the Fisher & Paykel parts page.
- Samsung: suspension rods on top loaders, carbon brushes on older belt-drive front loaders, the spider on WW front loaders. Search the model with its /SA suffix.
- Hisense: drain pump and door seal first. The Hisense Front Load Washing Machine Door Seal HWFS8514E HWFS1015E covers the two common models.
- Bosch: door seals perish around the drain holes; pumps collect coins. The Bosch Washing Machine Door Seal WAU28490AU/01, WAU28490AU/02 is typical; the /01 or /02 index decides it.
- LG: direct-drive front loaders are quiet until the bearings go; the older WF-T top loaders wear the clutch.
- Haier: shares platforms with Fisher & Paykel; door seals and shock absorbers. The Haier Washing Machine Door Seal HWF75AW1/AW2/DW1 & 20 More covers more than twenty models.
- Westinghouse: lid switches, lint filters and drain pumps on top loaders; door seals on front loaders. Westinghouse washing machine parts.
- Simpson: same family as Westinghouse, older fleet; lid switches, agitators, lint filters. Simpson washing machine parts.
- Electrolux: the premium end of that family; match by the PNC on the sticker.
- Beko: drain pumps, door seals and carbon brushes on older belt-drive models. Beko washing machine parts.
- Whirlpool: the round-pin lid switch on the American-style top loaders. Whirlpool washing machine parts.
- CHiQ: lint filters and lid switches on WTL top loaders, door seals on WFL front loaders. CHiQ washing machine parts.
- Solt: drain pumps and door seals. Solt washing machine parts.
- Stirling (Aldi): drain pumps, lint filters and door seals; the sticker is the only way in. Stirling washing machine parts.
- Esatto: inlet valves, drain pumps and door seals. Esatto washing machine parts.
How to match a part: the model sticker
Search the machine, not the part. A door seal that looks identical comes in half a dozen variants across one brand; the model number separates them.
- Front loaders: open the door; the sticker is on the door rim or the inside edge of the cabinet, sometimes behind the filter flap.
- Top loaders: lift the lid; it is under the lid or on the rear of the top panel, or on the back of older machines.
Read the whole thing, suffix included. On Bosch the E-Nr ends in an index like /01 or /02 and a seal can change between them. On Samsung the /SA marks the Australian version. On Fisher & Paykel, WH1060P1 and WH1060S1 are different machines with different parts. On Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux use the PNC on the sticker.
Type the model into the site search or use the model index. Faded sticker, or unsure of the suffix? Send a photo through the contact page; we check the match before you order.
What washing machine parts cost
- Switches, valves, carbon brushes and lint filters: $15–60.
- Drain pumps, shock absorbers and suspension rod kits: $25–90.
- Door seals: $40–120.
- Lip seal and bearing kits, spiders and clutches: $60–155.
A repairer’s call-out or diagnostic fee is typically $100–165 before any part, so a part you can fit yourself is the cheapest hour you will spend on the machine.
DIY or repairer?
Fit it yourself when the part is reachable without pulling the drum: pumps, door seals, inlet valves, lid switches, lint filters, carbon brushes and suspension rods. Unplug at the wall first, every time, and turn the taps off before touching a valve.
Call a repairer for bearings, spiders and clutches unless you own a puller and a free afternoon; the drum has to come out. Call one for anything two checks cannot settle, and for any board. Stop when the sums stop working: a bearing job on a ten-year-old machine, part plus labour, can reach half the price of a new one, and then the new machine wins.
Frequently asked questions
Q: How do I know which part has actually failed?
A: Find your symptom in the table; most washer faults come down to one of those ten parts, and each linked guide gives two checks to confirm it. If they do not settle it, a repairer earns the fee.
Q: Are the parts genuine or aftermarket?
A: Each product page says which. Some are the manufacturer’s own part, others quality equivalents for the same models; either way the fit is decided by your model number.
Q: Do you stock parts for older washing machines?
A: Often, yes. The LG WF-T clutch, the Whirlpool round-pin lid switch and the carbon brushes for older Samsung front loaders are on the shelf. Send the model number for an honest yes or no.
Q: How quickly will the part arrive?
A: Get it to us by 12pm Sydney time and it leaves the Northern Beaches warehouse the day you order; delivery time then depends on where you are.
Q: Is it worth fixing a washing machine that is eight years old?
A: For a pump, seal, valve or switch, almost always; a small fraction of a new machine’s price buys several more years. For bearings or a spider on a budget machine, add the part and a repairer’s labour and compare with a replacement.
Find the model number on the sticker and search it on the site, or send it through the find-your-model page or contact form and we will match it. Everything here is stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
