Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your Fisher & Paykel WashSmart or SmartDrive top loader (WA7060, WA8060, WA1068, WL1068 and the WL8058, WL1064 and WL1264 variants) is banging on spin, sitting full of water, refusing to spin or dead, it is usually one of four parts: the suspension rods, the drain pump, the lid lock or the inlet valve. All are stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). What matters is matching the model number on the sticker under the lid, letters and all.
Last updated September 2026
The WashSmart has stopped. Here is what it usually is
You know the moment. The WashSmart has walked halfway across the laundry on the spin, or it has stopped with a bowl full of grey water and the display flashing. It is one of the most common top loaders in Australian laundries, so the faults are well known and the parts are cheap. There is no belt and no gearbox: the motor bolts straight onto the bowl shaft, which is why these machines run for well over a decade and the repair list is short.
The table is the short version. Match your model number before you order; if it is not in the listing name, send it through first.
| What you’re seeing | What it usually is | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Banging and walking on spin; bowl sits low or leans | Worn suspension rods, all four | Replacement Fisher Paykel WashSmart Washing Machine Suspension Kit |
 Same banging on a 10kg WA1068 or WL1068 | Rod for the 10kg machines | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Suspension Rod WA1068P1, WA1068G1, WL1068P1, WA1068G2 |
 Same banging on a WL8058G1 or WL9058G1 | Rod for the 8 and 9kg WL models | Fisher Paykel Top Load Washing Machine Suspension Rod WL8058G1, WL9058G1 |
 Stopped full of water; hum or silence underneath | Jammed or failed drain pump | Fisher & Paykel Top Loader Washing Machine Drain Pump WL8058G1, WL1064G1, WL1264P1 |
 Won’t fill, fills slowly, or fills by itself overnight | Inlet valve | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Inlet Valve 5Way WL8060P1, WL1068P1 |
 Agitates and drains but will not spin | Brake actuator under the tub | FISHER PAYKEL WASHING MACHINE ACTUATOR BRAKE WL1064G1 WL1064P1 WL1264P1 WL8058G1 |
 Rumble on spin, water under the machine, rust on clothes | Tub bearings and lip seal | Fisher & Paykel Top Loader Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit |
 Fluff all over the wash | Clip-in lint filters, sold in pairs | 2 x Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Lint Filters Suits WL8058G1 WL9058G1 |
The four parts that fail most
Suspension rods: the fix for a walking WashSmart
Four rods hang the tub from the cabinet corners, each with a damper cup at the bottom. As the dampers wear the tub drops, heavy loads go out of balance, and the spin turns into a drum solo. Replace all four; one new rod against three tired ones just moves the bang. The WashSmart Washing Machine Suspension Kit covers most of the family; the 10kg and the 8 and 9kg WL machines have their own rods in the table. Budget $55–75 and 30 to 45 minutes with the top deck lifted. The WashSmart banging on spin guide walks through it.
Drain pump: stopped with a bowl full of water
Jammed, the pump hums and throws a fault; failed, it goes silent. Before you buy anything, switch off at the wall, bail the bowl, tip the machine back and check the pump housing for a coin or a bra wire. Half the time that is the fix. If the impeller is stiff, cracked or spins freely, the pump is finished: the pump in the table is the common fitment and the Top Load Washing Machine Drain Pump Genuine is the factory option, both around $55–70. The full test is in Fisher & Paykel washing machine not draining.
Lid lock and lid switch: it will not start, or will not spin
The WashSmart locks the lid before it spins. If the lock cannot confirm the lid is down, the machine fills, agitates and drains, then stops dead at spin, or refuses to start and beeps. The older SmartDrive’s lid switch does the same. Check the lid closes flat and nothing is jammed in the lock slot. Never bypass or tape over the lock: a top loader at full spin with the lid open is how hands get broken. Locks are model-specific and not every one is listed on the site at any given moment, so send the model number for an honest yes or no. The lid switch guide covers the test.
Inlet valve: no water, slow water, or water when it is off
Two failures, one part. Clicking and filling at a dribble means a dead coil or a grit-packed inlet screen. A bowl of cold water in the morning that the machine never asked for means the valve is not sealing. On the WL8060P1 and WL1068P1 the fix is the Inlet Valve 5Way WL8060P1, WL1068P1, $70–90 and a ten-minute swap at the back once the taps are off. The not filling guide has the checks.
The parts behind the big four
Brake actuator. A small motorised actuator under the tub releases the bowl brake for spin. When it fails the machine agitates and drains, then just sits there. Rule the lid lock out first; the WL fitment is in the table.
Lip seal and bearings. A rumble on spin that grows every month, a puddle under the machine, rust marks on light clothes: water is getting down the bowl shaft. The Top Loader Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit is the cheap part at $15–35; the labour is the dear part, because the bowl has to come out.
Lint filters. Cracked or missing, and every wash comes out furry. Sold in pairs by capacity: the WL8058G1 and WL9058G1 pair in the table, the 2 X Fisher Paykel 10KG WASHING MACHINE LINT FILTER WL1064G1, and the 2 x Fisher Paykel 12 KG WASHING MACHINE LINT FILTER WL1264P1.
Controllers: fit after diagnosis, not on a guess
Two boards run a WashSmart: the motor controller underneath and the display module in the console. Stops mid-cycle, a dead display or a lazy spin can be either board, or a pump or lid lock pretending to be one. Boards are the dearest part on the machine, so diagnose first. Decode the fault number in the Fisher & Paykel fault codes guide, then follow the motor controller diagnosis or, for a machine with no lights at all, the power board diagnosis. Controllers are matched to the exact model and generation, so send the fault number and model number before you order one.
For the wider family, including the WH front loaders, see the Fisher & Paykel washing machine parts front door, the Fisher & Paykel range and the washing machine parts store.
Where the model sticker is, and how to match it
Lift the lid. The model sticker sits under it, on the cabinet edge or the underside of the lid; some carry a second copy on the back panel. You want the full model number, letters and digit included: WA1068G2, not WA1068. The letter and digit are the series and generation; between a G1 and a P1 the console, the controller and sometimes the rods change. Search the full model number on the site; the Fisher & Paykel model pages collect the parts by machine. If a listing does not name your model, photograph the sticker and send it via the contact page. We check before you order. The model number guide shows every sticker spot.
DIY or repairer?
A repairer’s call-out and diagnosis typically runs $100–165 before any part. Against a $55–75 set of rods or a $55–70 pump, doing it yourself is an easy call: both are top-deck or tip-it-back jobs with a socket set, as are the inlet valve and lid lock. Where it flips is the lip seal and bearings, because the bowl has to come out, and any controller unless the diagnosis is confirmed. Stop and call someone when you smell burnt plastic, when the cabinet has been wet inside, or when a new part fixes nothing. Always switch off at the wall and pull the plug before you lift the deck; it is a plug-in machine, so there is no switchboard work.
Frequently asked questions
My WashSmart bangs and walks on spin. Is it definitely the suspension rods?
Almost always, if the bowl also sits low or bounces when you push it. A metallic grind rather than a thump points at the bearings instead.
Does the WashSmart have a belt or a gearbox that could be the problem?
No. They are direct drive, with no belt and no gearbox to wear. If it will not spin, check the lid lock, the brake actuator and the pump before the motor.
It has stopped with a bowl full of water. What do I check first?
Switch off at the wall, bail the bowl, and check the pump housing for a coin or a bra wire and the drain hose for a kink. If the pump is clear and still hums or does nothing, replace it.
Can I bypass the lid lock so it spins with the lid open?
No. The lock keeps hands out of a bowl at full spin speed, and bypassing it confuses the controller into new faults. Replace it.
Which suspension rod fits a WA1068G2?
The rod listed for WA1068P1, WA1068G1, WL1068P1 and WA1068G2 is the 10kg fitment. Still match the full model number on the sticker; if the suffix differs, send it through first.
Read the model number off the sticker under the lid and search it on the site. Not sure? Send it through the contact page and we will match the part. Everything above is stocked on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and dispatched the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
