Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The door seal (also called the door boot or gasket) is the flexible rubber ring that seals the gap between the drum and the door on a front loader. When it tears, perishes, or grows mould that won’t clean off, the machine leaks from the door and needs a new seal. Replacement is a confident DIY job for most people — around 45 to 90 minutes with basic tools — and a genuine or compatible seal typically costs between $32 and $79 depending on the brand.
The part that fixes this
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1260F1 WH1260F2 WH1160F2
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine 11kg Series 9 Door Seal WH1160FG2 (93293-A)
- Haier Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket HWF75AW1, AW2, HWF75DW1, HWF80BW1, HWF80BW2
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by model number.
Last updated September 2026
Not sure which seal fits your machine? Start here: find your model with the Part Finder. If you already know your brand, jump straight to your guide — Samsung, LG, Bosch, Fisher & Paykel, Haier or Hisense.
What is a washing machine door seal?
The door seal is the large flexible rubber ring — often called the door boot, bellows or gasket — that bridges the front-loader’s outer opening and the spinning drum. It has two jobs. It creates a watertight seal so water can’t escape the front of the machine during a wash or spin, and it flexes to absorb the drum’s movement without letting the drum rub against the cabinet.
Only front loaders have a door boot. Top loaders load through a lid on top of the machine and don’t use one, so this guide is for front-load washers. The seal is made from thick moulded rubber with folds and drain channels, and it takes a hard life — hot water, detergent, bleach residue, coins, underwire and the constant flexing of every spin cycle all wear it down over the years.
Why door seals fail
Door boots fail in a handful of predictable ways. Knowing which one you’re dealing with tells you whether a clean will save it or whether it needs replacing.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Water pooling on the floor at the front during a wash | A split or perished seal, or a foreign object trapped in the fold holding the door open a fraction | Inspect and replace the seal |
| Black or pink spotting inside the rubber folds | Mould and detergent build-up in the boot | Clean first; replace if it won’t come out |
| A musty or mildew smell from the drum | Mould living in the seal folds and drain holes | Clean the fold and drain holes; leave the door ajar between washes |
| A visible tear, crack or a chunk missing from the rubber | Age, an underwire, or a coin cutting the rubber | Replace the seal |
| Water only leaks on spin, not on fill | The seal has perished or torn at the top where it flexes most | Replace the seal |
Mould is the most common complaint and often doesn’t mean the seal is finished — a proper clean will bring many boots back. Our mould removal guide walks through the safe method. A tear or a perished, hardened seal, on the other hand, can’t be repaired reliably and is best replaced.
How to identify your seal
Every brand’s boot is a different shape, so you can’t fit a Samsung seal to a Bosch. To get the right one you need your machine’s model number.
- Find the model sticker. On most front loaders it sits inside the door frame — open the door and look around the opening, or on the side of the door aperture. It may also be on the back panel or under the lid of the detergent drawer.
- Note the full model number. Copy it exactly, including letters and slashes — the fitment often hinges on a suffix like /XSA or /AU.
- Match it to a seal. Use the Part Finder or your brand’s guide below to confirm the correct boot for that model.
Never order by eye alone — two machines that look identical from the front can take different boots depending on the drum and door design.
DIY replacement — the general method
The exact steps differ by brand, but the sequence is the same on nearly every front loader. Your brand guide has the model-accurate detail.
- Unplug the machine at the wall and turn off the tap. Never work on a machine that’s still powered.
- Open the door and peel back the outer lip of the seal from the front rim of the cabinet.
- Remove the outer retaining band. Most boots are held to the cabinet by a spring-clamp or a wire band with a tension spring. Prise it off with a flat screwdriver — mind your fingers, it’s under tension.
- Fold the boot inward off the front lip so it hangs into the drum.
- Remove the inner retaining band at the back of the boot where it meets the outer tub. This one usually needs the front panel or top removed first, depending on the model.
- Fit the new seal. Line up the drain hole and any locating mark at the bottom, seat the inner lip on the tub first, then work the outer lip onto the cabinet rim and refit both bands.
- Test on a rinse and spin with no load, watching for leaks, before you wash a full load.
Safety: always unplug at the wall before opening the cabinet, and turn off the water tap so you don’t flood the floor while the boot is off.
Replacement cost in Australia
| Option | Estimated cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| DIY seal replacement (part only) | $32 to $79 depending on brand | 45 to 90 minutes |
| Tradie call-out plus seal fitted | $180 to $350 (labour plus part) | 1 to 2 hours |
The seal itself is the same part whether you fit it or a tradie does, so doing it yourself is where the saving is. If your machine is under bench, stacked, or you’re not comfortable getting behind the front panel, a local tradie is money well spent. Northern Beaches customers can grab the seal from us and fit it in an afternoon.
Parts for this job
These are the door boots we hold for the front loaders people bring to this guide, grouped by brand and model family. All are in stock and ship from Sydney. Most boots on this list sit in the $45 to $100 band depending on brand and drum size, and the clamp ring is under $20.
Fisher & Paykel — WH1260F1, WH1260F2, WH1160F2
Fisher & Paykel — 11kg Series 9 WH1160FG2
Haier — HWF75AW1, HWF75DW1, HWF80BW1
Haier — HWF75AW3, HWF85ANB1, HWF95ANB1
Hisense — 12kg Series 5 HWF5S1214
Hisense — part K2315392
Samsung — DC97-20515A
Samsung — DC97-18852A
Bosch — WAK24160AU, WAK24161AU, WAK24220AU
Bosch — WGA254U0AU, WGA254X00W
LG — WV5-1408W, WV5-1409W, WV6-1409W
Beko — WMY1048LB1, WMY9048LB1
Any front loaderThe outer clamp ring is the one genuinely universal item here. It is a plain spring band rather than a moulded part, so if yours has lost its tension or sprung out of shape while you were prising it off, you can replace it without matching a model. The boots themselves are not interchangeable between brands.
Not sure which one fits? Send a photo of the model sticker through our contact page and we’ll match it.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal H0020300940T WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1 — typically $110 to $130
- Hisense Front Load Washing Machine Door Seal HWFS8514E HWFS1015E — typically $65 to $80
Frequently asked questions
Can I repair a torn door seal instead of replacing it?
Not reliably. Silicone or rubber patches don’t hold against the constant flexing and hot water, and a patched seal usually leaks again within weeks. If the rubber is split, cracked or perished, replace it.
How long does a washing machine door seal last?
Most boots last several years, but life depends on how the machine is used — frequent hot washes, bleach, leaving the door shut between cycles, and underwire or coins left in pockets all shorten it. Wiping the fold dry and leaving the door ajar goes a long way.
Is the door seal the same as the door boot or gasket?
Yes. Door seal, door boot, bellows and gasket all describe the same flexible rubber ring between the drum and the door on a front loader.
Do I need the exact seal for my model?
Yes. Boots are brand and model specific — the diameter, drain hole position and mounting differ. Match your model number on the model sticker to the correct seal using the Part Finder or your brand guide.
My seal is mouldy but not torn — do I have to replace it?
Often not. If the rubber is still supple and intact, a proper clean will usually restore it. Only replace it if the mould has stained deep into cracked rubber or the boot is perished. See our mould removal guide first.
Will a new seal stop the musty smell?
If the smell comes from mould in an old, cracked boot that won’t clean up, a new seal plus better habits — door ajar, wiping the fold, a monthly hot cycle — will clear it. If the seal is fine, the smell is usually maintenance, not a part.
Related
- Washing machine leaking from the door? It’s usually the seal
- How to remove mould from a washing machine door seal
- Samsung washing machine door seal replacement
- LG washing machine door seal replacement
- Bosch washing machine door seal replacement
- Fisher & Paykel · Haier TwinTasker · Hisense · find your model
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
