Fisher & Paykel WH1060, WH1160 and WH1260 Washing Machine Parts: Door Seals, Bearing Kits, Pumps and Boards for the 10, 11 and 12 kg Front Loaders (2026)

Quick answer: Fisher & Paykel’s 10, 11 and 12 kg front loaders (WH1060, WH1160 and WH1260, P1 to P4, S1/SG1 and F1/F2/FG2/HG1) fail in four places: the door seal, the lip seal and bearing kit behind a roaring spin, the drain pump when it stops full of water, and the inlet valve when it won’t fill. All stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). The letters after the capacity decide the part, so match the model number on the sticker inside the door rim.

Find your exact part

Last updated October 2026

What fails on the WH1060, WH1160 and WH1260, and the part that fixes it

Each row links the live part and names the generation.

What you’re seeing	What it usually is	The part
Water on the floor at the front, black mould in the fold, a visible split	Door seal (the rubber bellows): S1, SG1 and F2	Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1
Same leak, 10 or 12 kg P1	Door seal, P1 generation	Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Genuine WH1060P1 WH1260P1
Same leak, 10 kg P3 or P4	Door seal, P3/P4 generation	Genuine Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH9060P4, WH1060P3, WH1060P4
A roar on spin that grows monthly, the drum rocks when lifted, rusty streaks on the seal	Drum bearings and the lip seal in front of them	FISHER & PAYKEL Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH1060S1 WH1060P1, WH1260P1, WH1260F1, WH1160F2, WH1160FG2, WH1160HG1
Stops full of water, drain fault, hum or silence from the bottom front	Drain pump, once the filter is clear	Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Drain Pump WH1160FG2 WH1060P1 WH1260F1 WH1060SG1 WH1160S1 WH1260P1 WH1160F2 WH1060S1
Won’t fill or fills to a trickle, tap on and hose clear	Cold inlet valve	Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Inlet Valve Cold WH1160F2 WH1160S1 WH1260F1
Cold cycles fine, warm and hot cycles never warm up	Heater element (10 kg P3 and P4)	Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Heater element WH9060P4 WH1060P3, WH1060P4
Dead: no lights, no beep, power point and plug check out	Power board, only after diagnosis	Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Power Board WH1060P1 WH1260P1

Which one have you got? The letters after the capacity decide the part

Read the model number as three pieces: WH1060 is the 10 kg, WH1160 the 11 kg, WH1260 the 12 kg; then a letter or pair of letters (P, S, F, SG, FG or HG); then a digit. A WH1060P3 and a WH1060S1 take different door seals. The drain pump, bearing kit and inlet valve are shared across most of the family; the door seal and the boards are not.

Door seals: one family, several seals

This is where the generation bites. The S1, SG1 and F2 seal is a different moulding from the P1 seal, and the P3 and P4 use another again. The 11 kg P3 has its own, the Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1160P3; the 12 kg F1 and F2 take the Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1260F1 WH1260F2 WH1160F2; and the Haier-badged twin of the 12 kg P1 shares the Haier Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Genuine WH1060P1 WH1260P1 HWF12D1W1. If the sticker says P2, or a suffix you cannot find, send the full model number through and we will name the seal.

Stained but not split? It will not leak; bleach-wipe it and run a hot empty cycle. Split: spring band off, old seal off the tub lip, new one seated with its drain holes at the bottom, machine unplugged throughout. The door seal replacement guide walks it.

The roar on spin: lip seal and bearing kit, and when the spider goes too

A 12 kg drum on tired bearings sounds like a jet taxiing in the laundry. Lift the drum at the top: if it rocks or clunks, the bearings are gone, and rust streaks in the seal fold confirm water got past the lip seal.

One kit, in the table, covers the S1, P1, F1, F2, FG2 and HG1 across all three sizes. The bearing kit fitting guide for the WH7560 and WH8560 is the same job in a bigger cabinet: front off, drum out, tub split, bearings pressed in square. The banging-on-spin guide shows when the spider, the alloy casting behind the drum, must come too; white crust or a cracked hub means new bearings alone will not last. We do not list a spider for this family as standard; send the model number for an honest yes or no.

Stopped full of water: the filter first, then the pump

Mid-cycle stop, door locked, drain fault. Drain it first: kick panel off, shallow tray under the filter cap, unscrew it slowly. Coins, hairpins and bra wire in that trap are the cause more often than the pump. Trap clean? Listen at the bottom front during the drain phase: a hum with no flow is a jammed impeller, silence is a dead coil, and the pump in the table covers every generation here. The not draining guide covers the hose and pressure switch.

Won’t fill, or won’t get warm

Silent at the start of the cycle, then a fill fault: no water is arriving. Check the tap, then clean the mesh screen where the inlet hose meets the machine. Still no click from the valve? It is the cold inlet valve. The table links the F2, S1 and F1 valve; the 10 kg S1 and SG1 take the Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Inlet Valve Cold WH1060S1 WH1060SG1. The not filling guide shows how to test a valve with a multimeter first.

Fills, tumbles and drains but never warms on a 60-degree cycle? The heater element is open circuit. On the 10 kg P3 and P4 it is in the table; a resistance check across the terminals, machine unplugged, confirms it.

Dead machine or motor fault: boards and controllers, diagnosed first

The power board runs the display, pump, valves and door lock; the motor controller drives the drum. The Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Motor Controller WH1060P3 WH1060P4 WH1060S1 covers the 10 kg P3, P4 and S1; the power board in the table is for the P1 10 and 12 kg. Neither is a part to buy on a hunch. Test the power point with a kettle, check the lead and plug, and confirm the door locks; a machine that cannot lock looks dead. Then read the display code against the Fisher & Paykel fault codes guide: a motor fault with a drum that turns freely by hand points at the controller, a drum that grinds points at the bearings.

Where the model sticker is and how to match it

Open the door. The model sticker sits inside the door rim, usually at the top or hinge side, and reads WH1260P1 or WH1160F2 rather than a bare WH1260; write down the whole string. If it has worn off, the find your Fisher & Paykel model number guide shows where else it is printed. Search it on the site: every part here lives in the washing machine parts store, the wider range on the Fisher & Paykel brand page, and the Fisher & Paykel model pages list parts by machine. Unsure? Send the model number and the fault through the contact page and we will check before you order.

DIY or repairer?

Door seal, drain pump, inlet valve and heater element are afternoon jobs with a screwdriver set, a torch and a tray: seals run roughly $70–130, pumps and valves $70–100, against a repairer’s call-out of $100–165 before parts. The bearing kit is a $60–90 part on a full-day job that needs the tub split, a press or drift and a second pair of hands. Boards and controllers sit in the $150–250 band, which is why we say diagnose first. Call a repairer when the spider or outer tub is cracked on a machine past ten years old, when a board is burnt or smells, or when you are not confident. Know the right part, then decide who fits it.

Frequently asked questions

Do the WH1060, WH1160 and WH1260 all use the same door seal?

No. The letters and digit after the capacity decide it: S1, SG1 and F2 share one seal, the P1 takes another, the P3 and P4 another, and the 11 kg P3 and 12 kg F1/F2 have their own listings.

How do I tell which generation my Fisher & Paykel front loader is?

Read the suffix on the model sticker: WH1060P3 is a 10 kg P3, WH1160F2 an 11 kg F2. Letters are the trim generation, the digit the revision; both matter for seals and boards.

Can I fit the lip seal and bearing kit myself?

Yes, if you are comfortable pulling the drum and splitting the outer tub. It is a full day, needs a press or drift, and is far easier with two people.

My WH1260 stops full of water. Is it the pump or the filter?

The filter, most of the time. Drain through the filter cap behind the kick panel, clear the trap, refit it tightly and run a rinse and spin. Still stuck, with a hum from below? The drain pump.

My machine is completely dead. Should I just replace the power board?

Not on a guess. Confirm the power point works, the lead is sound and the door locks. If all of that is good and there is still no display, the power board is likely; a diagnosis first is cheaper than the wrong board.

Read the model number off the sticker inside the door rim and search it on the site, or send it with the symptom through the contact page and we will match it before you order. Dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.

Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.