Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common cause of a Fisher & Paykel WH7560J1 or WH8560J1 banging or rumbling on spin is worn drum bearings — and on this Haier-built J-series platform the splined drum shaft running through them usually pits where the lip seal rides, so shaft and bearings are replaced together. It is the biggest job a front loader gets (drum out, tub split, an afternoon), but the parts come as one kit: the spider shaft plus the H0020300341 lip seal and bearings. The spider tripod is separate and rarely cracks — here is how to confirm the fault first.
Last updated August 2026
Which models the shaft and bearing kit matches
One washing machine door hinge is documented for 85 models across both Fisher & Paykel and Haier — the two brands share manufacturing platforms. The WH7560J1, WH8060J1, WH8560J1 and WH8560J3 sit on that shared platform, and it changes how the drum is built: instead of the one-piece aluminium spider found on most European front loaders, these machines run a separate splined drum shaft through a bolt-on tripod. Hence a shaft-and-bearing kit rather than a spider-and-bearing kit.
Check yours on the model sticker (usually just inside the door opening, or on the back panel) before ordering. If your sticker shows a different suffix — P1, F1 and so on — it is not on this kit’s list; send us the model number and we will check what is documented for it.
| Model on the sticker | Symptom | Kit |
|---|---|---|
 WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH8060J1, WH8560J1, WH8560J3, 93230-A | Rumble or banging that builds with spin speed; rust-brown streaks on washing; rusty or grey water under the machine after a spin | Fisher & Paykel drum shaft & bearing kit |
The kit is priced $15–17 below buying the shaft and the seal-and-bearing set separately, and it is one of the front-loader bundles in our Repair Kits range.
Why the J-series shaft and bearings are replaced together
On these machines the spider is two parts. A three-arm tripod bolts to the back of the stainless drum, and a splined shaft locates in the centre of that tripod and runs back through the tub, through the bearings and out to the pulley. The lip seal sits in front of the bearings and rides directly on the shaft.
That is where the trouble starts. Once the lip seal hardens or wears, water works past it, the bearings rust and roughen, and the shaft surface under the seal pits. Fit a new seal and bearings onto a pitted shaft and the seal has nothing smooth to run on — water gets past again and the rumble is back within months. Fit a new shaft onto tired bearings and the rough bearings hammer the new shaft. Both come out in the same strip-down, so replacing the shaft and the seal and bearings together is simply doing the job once.
Confirm the fault before you buy anything
Unplug the machine and turn off both taps before any of these checks.
Rule out the cheap causes first
- Unbalanced or single heavy items. A bath mat or a doona on its own will bang on spin in a healthy machine. Re-run with a mixed load.
- Feet and floor. Rock the cabinet corner to corner. If it moves, level it — a walking machine sounds a lot like a drum fault.
- Something between drum and tub. Coins, bra wires and hair clips make a light scrape or tinkle as the drum turns, not a deep rumble.
Three checks that point at the bearings and shaft
- The rock test. With the door open, grip the drum lip at the top and the bottom and try to rock it up and down. A healthy drum has almost no play. Noticeable movement, or a clunk as it moves, means worn bearings.
- The hand-spin test. Spin the empty drum by hand. It should be smooth and quiet. A gritty grinding, or a rumble you can feel through the drum, is bearing wear.
- Evidence of water past the seal. Rust-brown streaks on light-coloured washing, or a rusty or grey drip under the machine after the spin. Either means the lip seal has failed — and on the J-series that means the shaft under it is almost certainly marked.
How a cracked tripod feels different
A broken spider arm gives a heavier, more violent thump — the drum drops off-centre and hits the tub once per revolution rather than rumbling continuously — and the drum often looks visibly out of round when you turn it. That failure is far more common on one-piece aluminium spiders; our front loader banging on spin guide covers how to tell the two apart. On this Fisher & Paykel platform, assume bearings and shaft first, and inspect the tripod arms once the drum is out.
What is in the kit, and when to add the tripod
The WH7560J1 / WH8560J1 spider shaft and bearing kit bundles the two parts that come out together:
- the Fisher & Paykel spider shaft (part 92137) — the splined drum shaft that runs through the bearings; and
- the H0020300341 lip seal and bearings kit — the seal and the bearings the shaft runs in.
The tripod is not part of the kit, and for most machines it does not need to be.
The tripod. Once the drum is out, look at the three arms where they meet the central hub and where they bolt to the drum. If they are intact and not corroded through, reuse them — that is the normal outcome. If an arm is cracked, or corrosion has eaten into the metal, add the Fisher & Paykel spider tripod to the order. It is listed separately, so check that listing against your model sticker, or send us your model number and we will check what is documented.
Pros of the kit: both wear parts in one order, matched to the models listed, priced below the two parts bought separately, and no second strip-down if the shaft turns out to be pitted — which it usually is. Cons: it is a full drum-out job whichever way you buy the parts, and if the door seal and tripod are also tired, price the whole list before committing. Our guide on washing machine bearing replacement — worth it or buy new walks through that decision.
What the job actually involves
This is the biggest repair a front loader gets. Plan for an afternoon.
- Unplug the machine and turn off the hot and cold taps. Drain it through the filter and pull it clear of the wall.
- Panels come off, then the door seal, counterweights, motor and belt, hoses and suspension, so the tub can be lifted out.
- The tub is split, the drum comes out, the old bearings and seal are driven out and the new ones drifted in square, and it all goes back together in reverse.
Tools are a socket set, screwdrivers, a rubber mallet, a drift or an old socket to drive the bearings, and a phone camera for reference photos. Many owners do it with a video and a free weekend; others buy the kit and hand it to a local repairer, which keeps the labour to the fitting alone. Our fitting guide for the Fisher & Paykel lip seal and bearings kit (WH7560 / WH8560 series) covers the seal and bearing side step by step.
While the drum is out, check the door seal for splits or mould too — refitting a tired one means pulling the machine apart again later. Not sure the parts match? Send us the model number off the sticker; we are on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and post Australia-wide.
Frequently asked questions
Is a WH8560J1 that bangs on spin more likely to be the bearings or the spider?
On this platform, the bearings and the shaft they run on. A bearing fault is a rumble or grinding that builds with spin speed, with play when you rock the drum and often rust streaks on washing. A cracked tripod arm gives a violent once-per-revolution thump and a visibly off-centre drum, and is much less common on this platform.
Can I fit new bearings and keep the old shaft?
Only if the shaft is smooth where the lip seal runs. By the time the bearings are noisy, that band is usually pitted, and a new seal on a pitted shaft leaks again. The kit pairs the shaft with the seal and bearings and is priced $15–17 below buying the two separately, so reusing a doubtful shaft saves little against a second strip-down.
Does the kit include the spider tripod?
No. The kit is the splined spider shaft plus the H0020300341 lip seal and bearings. The tripod is a separate listing and only needs replacing if an arm is cracked or corroded through when you inspect it with the drum out.
Which models does the kit match?
WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH8060J1, WH8560J1, WH8560J3 and 93230-A, as documented on the kit listing. Confirm the number on your model sticker rather than the badge on the front, and if yours is not on that list, send it through and we will check.
How long does the job take, and do I need special tools?
Allow an afternoon for a first attempt. A socket set, screwdrivers, a rubber mallet and something to drift the bearings in square cover it. Unplug the machine and turn off both taps before you start.
Is it worth repairing a WH7560J1 or WH8560J1, or should I buy new?
If the cabinet, drum and electronics are sound, replacing the shaft, seal and bearings returns the machine to quiet running for the cost of the kit and an afternoon (or a repairer’s fitting fee). If the tripod, door seal and pump are all due as well, add those up first. Our Fisher & Paykel parts range lists what is documented for the WH series.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
