Appliance Spares
Quick answer: For Fisher & Paykel washers in Australia, the parts that fail most are the drain pump and door seal on the WH front loaders (WH7560 through WH1260), the lip seal and bearings kit once the spin turns into a roar, and the suspension rods or kit on WA and WL WashSmart top loaders. Oz Appliance Spares stocks genuine spares in Sydney and dispatches the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). Match the model number on the sticker and the rest is easy.
Last updated September 2026
Three moments that bring people here
The WashSmart has stopped with a tub full of water and the lid locked. The front loader has left a puddle on the floor and there is a split in the grey rubber around the door. Or the spin now sounds like a plane taxiing past the laundry. Those three moments cover most Fisher & Paykel washer faults, and each comes down to a part you can name and fit.
What fails on a Fisher & Paykel washer, and the part that fixes it
| What you’re seeing | What it usually is | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Front loader stops with water in the drum; pump hums or clicks; drain fault showing | Drain pump (clear the filter first) | Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Drain Pump WH1160FG2 WH1060P1 WH1260F1 WH1060SG1 WH1160S1 WH1260P1 WH1160F2 WH1060S1 |
 Water on the floor from the door of a 10 or 11 kg front loader; split in the rubber | Door seal | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1 |
 Same leak on a WH7560 or WH8560 (J or P series) | Door seal | Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket Suits WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH7560J3, WH7560P1, WH7560P2, WH8060P1, WH8060P2, WH8560P1, WH8560P2, WH8560J1, WH8560J2, WH8560J3 |
 Rumble that builds to a roar on spin; rust-brown streaks on the drum; drum rocks by hand | Drum bearings and lip seal | Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH1060S1, WH1060P1, WH1260P1, WH1260F1, WH1160F2, WH1160FG2, WH1160HG1 |
 The same roar on a WH9060J3 | Drum bearings and lip seal | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH9060J3 |
 WashSmart top loader walks, thumps or bangs on spin; out-of-balance stop on most loads | Suspension rods sagged | Replacement Fisher Paykel WashSmart Washing Machine Suspension Kit |
 Banging on spin on a WA1068 or WL1068 | One suspension rod collapsed | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Suspension Rod WA1068P1, WA1068G1, WL1068P1, WA1068G2 |
 Fills and drains but the drum will not turn; motor fault code on a WH8060P3, WH8560P3 or WH9060P3 | Motor controller, after diagnosis | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Motor Controller WH8060P3 WH8560P3 WH9060P3 |
The full range is in the Fisher & Paykel brand section; the washing machine parts store covers every brand.
WA and WL top loaders: WashSmart, and the SmartDrive before it
The WashSmart is a direct-drive top loader: no belt, no gearbox, and the tub hangs from four suspension rods. Its faults are easy to pin down.
- Banging, walking or out-of-balance stops. The rods have sagged. Fit the full kit on a machine more than a few years old; on the WA1068 and WL1068 a single rod will do if only one has collapsed. The WashSmart banging on spin guide walks through it.
- Stopped with water in the tub. Check the drain hose for a kink and the pump for a hair clip or sock. A pump that runs without moving water, or stays silent, has failed; match it by model number, not by shape.
- Will not start or spin, lid fault showing. The lid switch or lid lock. Never bypass it.
- Dead machine, or a burnt-electronics smell. Usually the motor controller, once the motor windings are ruled out.
The older SmartDrive top loaders are still working hard around the country. Parts exist for some and not others; send the model number for a straight yes or no.
WH front loaders: door seals, bearings, pumps and the boards
The WH family runs from the 7.5 kg WH7560 through the WH8060, WH8560, WH9060, WH1060 and WH1160 to the 12 kg WH1260. They share a design, not their parts. The letters after the digits (J, P, F, S, and the G and H variants) and the final digit decide which seal, bearing kit and controller you need.
Door seals, family by family
Black mould in the fold is a cleaning job. A split, a crease that no longer springs back, or a puddle during the wash means the seal has failed. By family:
- WH7560 and WH8560 J and P series, plus WH8060P1 and P2: the door seal gasket in the table above.
- F series: Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Suits WH8060F1, WH8560F1.
- Third-generation P series: Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Genuine WH8060P3, WH8560P3, WH9060P3.
- Later P series: Genuine Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH9060P4, WH1060P3, WH1060P4.
- First-generation 10 and 12 kg P series: Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Genuine WH1060P1 WH1260P1.
- 11 kg P3: Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1160P3.
The job is the same on all of them: unplug, pull the outer spring band, swap the seal, drain holes down. The door seal replacement guide has the steps.
Bearings, lip seal and the spider
When the lip seal lets go, water reaches the bearings and they rust. A rumble on spin becomes a roar; with the machine off, up-and-down play in the drum confirms it. Fit the kit for your family and inspect the spider (the three-armed casting behind the drum) while it is out; a corroded arm means the spider goes too. The WH7560J1 and WH8560J1 banging on spin guide covers the spider question and the lip seal and bearings fitting guide shows the drum-out procedure.
Drain pump, pump filter and inlet valve
A front loader that will not drain is the pump filter until proven otherwise; the ten-minute pump filter clean fixes many of them. If the filter is clear and the pump hums without moving water, fit the drain pump; the not draining guide separates the two. Slow or no filling is the inlet valve, covered in the inlet valve fix. A door that will not lock is the interlock or latch hook; see the door won’t lock guide.
Motor controller and power board: fit after diagnosis
The dearest parts on the machine, and the ones most often bought by mistake. A drum that never turns, with a motor fault code, points to the controller. But a failed motor, a chafed harness or a jammed drum shows the same code. Look it up on the appliance error codes pages, spin the drum by hand and have the motor windings tested first. The P3 controller is in the table; a second Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Motor Controller suits other WH front loaders. Send the model number and we will say which is yours.
Where the model sticker is, and how to match it
On a WA or WL top loader, lift the lid: the sticker is on its underside or the frame just inside. On a WH front loader, open the door and check the rim around the opening. The model looks like WH8060P3 or WA1068G1.
Read all of it. WH8060P1 and WH8060P3 take different door seals; so do WH8560J1 and WH8560F1. The letter is the family, the final digit the generation. Search the full model number on the site, browse the Fisher & Paykel model pages, or use find your model. Not sure? Send it through the contact page and we check before you order. The WH7560 parts guide and WH9060 parts guide list faults by generation.
DIY or repairer?
Every washer job starts the same way: unplug at the wall and turn off the tap. Then it is about cost and depth.
- Door seal. An hour or two with patience. Seals run about $40–130 depending on family.
- Drain pump or suspension rods. Under an hour each. Pumps sit at $70–90, kits and rods at $55–70.
- Bearings and lip seal. The kit is $55–70, but the drum comes out and the old bearings are driven off the shaft. Half a day for a first-timer; a repairer charges labour on top.
- Motor controller. Around $130–160, and only after diagnosis.
A repairer’s call-out and diagnosis typically runs $100–165 before parts, so on a seal, pump or rod job the part is the small number. Stop and call someone when you find scorching on a board, a cracked spider arm, or a job that needs the machine on its side while you are alone.
Frequently asked questions
Q: Are Fisher & Paykel and Haier washing machine parts the same?
A: Sometimes. Some later WH front loaders share door seals with Haier HWF models. Never assume: send your model number and we will confirm before you order.
Q: How do I tell whether it is the drain pump or just the filter?
A: Clear the filter first. If the machine then drains, you are done. If the pump hums without moving water, or stays silent, it has failed.
Q: Which door seal fits my WH front loader?
A: It depends on the family letter and the generation digit. A WH8060P1 and a WH8060P3 take different seals. Search the full model number, or send it to us and we will match it.
Q: My WashSmart bangs on spin. Do I need one rod or the whole kit?
A: On a machine more than a few years old, fit the kit; the rods wear together. A single rod suits a young machine where one has clearly snapped.
Q: Can I fit a motor controller myself to fix a dead Fisher & Paykel washer?
A: Yes, once the fault is confirmed. Check the error code, spin the drum by hand and have the motor tested. A controller fitted on a guess does not fix a failed motor.
Find the model number on the sticker and search it on the site. Unsure? Send it via the contact page and we will match the part. Genuine Fisher & Paykel washer parts are dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
