Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your Fisher & Paykel front loader is leaking from the door, growing mould in the rubber folds, or the boot is torn, the fix is a new door seal (also called the door boot or gasket). The replacement seal costs $32.95, fits most WH7560 and WH8560 models, and takes about 45 to 60 minutes to swap yourself with basic hand tools. No special skills are needed beyond patience and care with the retaining springs.
The part that fixes this
- Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1
- Genuine Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal WH9060P4, WH1060P3, WH1060P4
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by Fisher &Amp; Paykel model number.
Last updated September 2026
Find the right door seal for your model: Fisher & Paykel washing machine door seal — $32.95 · find your model
What the door seal does
The door seal — the flexible rubber boot between the drum opening and the door glass — has one job: keep wash water inside the drum. On a front loader the water sits at the bottom of the tub during a cycle, and the only thing stopping it running onto your laundry floor is that ring of rubber pressing against the door.
The seal takes a hard life. It flexes on every spin, it holds hot water and detergent, and its inner fold is a permanent damp pocket where lint, hair and coins collect. Over five to eight years the rubber perishes, splits along the fold, or develops black mould that no amount of cleaning will shift. Once it tears or hardens, it stops sealing and the machine leaks.
Symptoms of a failed Fisher & Paykel door seal
| Symptom | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Water on the floor at the front during wash or spin | Split or perished seal, or debris trapped in the fold breaking the seal |
| Black or grey mould in the rubber folds that returns after cleaning | Mould has penetrated the rubber — clean first, replace if it persists |
| A visible tear, crack or hole in the boot | Seal has failed and must be replaced |
| Damp, musty smell from the drum | Mould and trapped water in the seal fold |
| Small items (coins, clips) escaping under the seal | Seal no longer sitting flush against the glass |
If you can see a tear or the mould keeps coming back, the seal is done. A quick clean-up is worth trying first — see the mould guide linked below — but a torn boot only gets worse.
How to replace a Fisher & Paykel door seal step by step
Safety: mains voltage — always unplug at the wall before opening the cabinet.
- Unplug the machine and turn off the water taps. Have a towel and a shallow tray ready; the seal fold holds trapped water.
- Open the door and find the outer retaining ring. The seal is held to the front panel by an outer spring band (a wire or clamp spring seated in a groove around the boot’s outer lip).
- Release the outer spring. Find the tension spring or the join in the clamp, lever it out of its groove with a flat screwdriver, and work the outer lip of the seal free from the front panel all the way around.
- Fold the boot inward through the door opening to expose the inner clamp that secures the seal to the stainless drum tub.
- Release the inner clamp the same way and pull the old seal off the tub lip. Note the orientation — most Fisher & Paykel boots have a top drain hole or a locating mark that must line up at the top.
- Clean the tub and panel lip. Wipe away old debris and gunk so the new seal seats cleanly.
- Fit the new seal onto the tub first, lining up the locating mark at the top, and refit the inner clamp.
- Seat the outer lip into the front panel groove all the way around, then refit the outer spring, working it back into its groove evenly so the boot sits flat with no puckers.
- Reconnect power and water, and run a rinse-and-spin with the machine empty. Watch for leaks before you trust it with a full load.
Take your time with the springs — a boot fitted with a twist or a lip that isn’t fully seated is the most common cause of a leak after replacement.
Which seal fits my Fisher & Paykel model
The replacement seal (part reference H0020300590D) fits this range of Fisher & Paykel front loaders:
- WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH7560J3
- WH7560P1, WH7560P2
- WH8060P1, WH8060P2
- WH8560J1, WH8560J3
- WH8560P1, WH8560P2
- HWF80BW1, HWF85AW1
Your model number is on the model sticker inside the door frame or on the rear panel. If your model isn’t listed here, use the part finder to confirm the correct seal rather than guessing.
Door seal replacement cost in Australia
| Option | Estimated cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| DIY seal replacement (part only) | $32.95 | 45–60 minutes |
| Tradie call-out + seal fitted | $180–$320 (labour + part) | 1–1.5 hours |
At $32.95 for the part, the door seal is firmly in DIY territory for anyone comfortable working the retaining springs off and on. A tradie will do it faster, but most of the cost is the call-out fee rather than the part.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
Frequently asked questions
Is this a genuine Fisher & Paykel door seal?
This is a quality replacement seal built to fit the listed Fisher & Paykel models. It performs the same sealing job as the original boot at a lower price.
How do I know if my door seal needs replacing or just a clean?
If the leak or smell comes from mould and trapped debris, a thorough clean often fixes it. If the rubber is torn, cracked or hardened, cleaning won’t help — the seal must be replaced.
Can I fit the seal myself?
Yes. It’s a hand-tool job — no soldering or electrical work if you unplug first. The trickiest part is easing the retaining springs off and back on evenly. Allow an unhurried hour.
Why does my Fisher & Paykel seal keep growing mould?
Front loaders trap water in the seal fold. Leaving the door ajar between washes, wiping the fold dry, and running a monthly hot cycle all slow mould down. Once mould is deep in the rubber, though, replacement is the only lasting fix.
Will a new seal stop the leak completely?
If the leak was from a failed seal, yes — provided the new boot is seated evenly with the springs fully home. Run an empty rinse-and-spin afterwards to confirm before washing a full load.
My model isn’t on the fitment list — what do I do?
Use the part finder with your exact model number. Fisher & Paykel used several boot designs across their range, so it’s worth confirming rather than assuming.
Related
- Washing machine door seal replacement — complete guide
- Washing machine leaking from the door seal — how to diagnose it
- How to remove mould from a washing machine door seal
- Haier TwinTasker washing machine door seal replacement
- Hisense washing machine door seal replacement
- Find the right part for your Fisher & Paykel model
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
