Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A Fisher & Paykel washer that won’t fill — or fills painfully slowly — usually has a blocked inlet screen (free to clean) or a failed water inlet valve. On WashSmart and CleanSmart top loaders that’s the electronic 5-way valve ($77.95–$78.95); on WH-series front loaders it’s a separate hot, cold or dual valve (from $21.95). Check the taps and screens first, then replace the valve that matches your model — it’s a screwdriver-level job.
The part that fixes this
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Inlet Valve 5Way 424137P WL8060P1, WL1068P1
- Fisher Paykel CleanSmart Washing Machine 5 Way Inlet Valve 424887P
- 2 x Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Cold + Hot Inlet Valve 12V 426143P 426142P
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by Fisher &Amp; Paykel model number.
Last updated September 2026
Find the right Fisher & Paykel part by model number — or see the complete Fisher & Paykel washer repair guide.
Match the symptom to the cause
| What you see | Most likely cause | Cost to fix |
|---|---|---|
| No water at all, machine shows a fill fault | Tap off, kinked inlet hose, or failed inlet valve | $0–$78.95 |
| Fills very slowly, cycle times out | Blocked inlet screens or a tired valve that only half-opens | $0, or a new valve |
| Cold wash fine, no hot fill (or the reverse) | One valve of a hot/cold pair failed | $16.95–$28.90 |
| Water trickles into the drum when the machine is off | Valve not closing — replace it, don’t wait | from $16.95 |
| Fills on some cycles but not others (top loader) | One outlet of the 5-way valve failed | $77.95–$78.95 |
Step 1: The free checks
Turn both taps fully on and make sure the inlet hoses aren’t kinked behind the machine. Then turn the taps off, unscrew the hoses at the machine end over a bucket, and look at the small mesh screens in the valve inlets — grit and scale build up there and will throttle the fill to a trickle. Clean them gently with an old toothbrush. If the machine is showing a fault code while it refuses to fill, decode it in our Fisher & Paykel fault code guide — fill-related codes point at the valve circuit.
Step 2: Identify your valve
Fisher & Paykel used two very different arrangements, so check the model number on the model sticker (under the lid on top loaders, inside the door frame on front loaders):
Top loaders (WashSmart, CleanSmart — WA and WL models): a single electronic valve block with multiple outlets — the “5-way” valve — feeds the bowl, the detergent dispenser and the fabric softener channels. When one channel dies you get odd, cycle-dependent behaviour: fills on wash but not rinse, or no dispenser flush. The fix is the complete block.
Front loaders (WH models): conventional hot and cold solenoid valves at the back of the cabinet, sold individually, as pairs, or as a dual (twin-outlet) valve depending on the series. If only the hot or only the cold side has stopped, you only need that valve.
Step 3: Fit the right valve for your model
| Your machine | Inlet valve | Price |
|---|---|---|
 WL8060P1 / WL1068P1 top loaders | Fisher & Paykel 5-way inlet valve 424137P for WL8060P1 and WL1068P1 | $77.95 |
 CleanSmart top loaders | Fisher & Paykel CleanSmart 5-way inlet valve 424887P | $78.95 |
 Top loaders with separate 12 V hot/cold valves | Fisher & Paykel cold + hot inlet valve pair 426143P and 426142P — also sold singly: cold 426143P ($16.95) or hot 426142P ($22.95) | $39.95 the pair |
 WH7560 / WH8560 / WH8060 front loaders — hot side | Fisher & Paykel hot inlet valve H0024000140A for WH7560J1, WH8560J1, WH8060P1 | $21.95 |
 WH7560 / WH8560 / WH8060 front loaders — hot + cold set | Fisher & Paykel hot + cold inlet valve set for WH7560J1, WH8560J1, WH8060P1 | $43.85 |
 WH7560 / WH8560 front loaders — dual cold valve | Fisher & Paykel dual inlet valve H0024000126 for WH8560P1 and WH7560 models | $29.85 |
 WH8060P3 / WH8560P3 / WH9060P3 / WH1060 front loaders | Fisher & Paykel cold inlet valve for WH1060P3, WH1060P4, WH8060P3 | $89.95 |
Fisher & Paykel shared valve designs across many more models than fit here — run your model number through the Part Finder to be sure, or browse every Fisher & Paykel inlet valve in stock.
The valve swap, step by step
- Unplug the machine and turn off both taps. Unscrew the inlet hoses — have a towel ready.
- Open the machine: on top loaders the console or rear top panel lifts off to expose the valve block; on front loaders the valves sit just inside the rear panel where the hoses connect.
- Photograph the wiring and the outlet hoses, then unplug the connectors and ease the internal hoses off their spigots.
- Unscrew or unclip the old valve, fit the new one, and reconnect everything exactly as photographed.
- Reconnect the inlet hoses, turn the taps on, and check for weeps before running a rinse cycle.
Allow 20–40 minutes. It’s one of the easiest internal repairs on these machines — the valve is right where the hoses enter.
Repair cost vs a service call (Australia 2026)
| Option | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Clean the inlet screens yourself | $0 |
| DIY single hot or cold valve | $16.95–$29.85 |
| DIY 5-way valve (top loaders) | $77.95–$78.95 |
| Repairer callout plus the same part and labour | commonly $180–$300 |
| New Fisher & Paykel washer | $850–$2,000 |
The 50% rule: even the dearest valve here is under a tenth of a new machine. Fill faults are an easy “repair, don’t replace” decision.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my Fisher & Paykel washing machine not filling with water?
In order of likelihood: a tap not fully on or a kinked hose, blocked inlet screens, then a failed inlet valve. If the screens are clean and the taps are open, the valve is the part to replace.
Why does my top loader fill for the wash but not the rinse?
WashSmart and CleanSmart top loaders use a multi-outlet 5-way valve. One channel can fail while the others still work, which produces exactly this cycle-dependent behaviour — replace the valve block.
My machine has no hot water but cold works — do I need the whole valve?
No. On WH front loaders and older top loaders the hot and cold valves are separate parts — replace just the failed side (from $16.95).
Water keeps trickling into the drum after the cycle ends — is that the same part?
Yes. A valve that won’t seal lets mains pressure seep past even when the machine is off. Replace it promptly — a stuck-open valve can overflow the machine.
Do these parts ship same day?
Yes — order before 12pm Sydney time for same-day dispatch Australia-wide, flat $10.60 shipping.
Related
- Fisher & Paykel washer repairs — the complete guide
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine fault codes
- Full parts guides for your model: WH7560, WH8060P3, WH9060
- All Fisher & Paykel inlet valves in stock
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit part out.
- Browse thousands of parts in stock
- Order before 12pm Sydney time → ships same day from our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
