Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common faults on the Fisher & Paykel WH7560 front loader are worn drum bearings ($51.95 for the lip seal and bearings kit), a leaking or perished door seal ($42.95), and a failed drain pump ($49.95). All three are in-stock parts available for next-day dispatch from Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
The part that fixes this
- FISHER & PAYKEL Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH7560J1 WH8560J3 0167
- Haier Washing Machine Door Seal HWF75AW1/AW2/DW1 & 20 More
- FISHER PAYKEL WASHING MACHINE DRAIN PUMP WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH7560J3, WH7560P1
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by Fisher &Amp; Paykel model number.
Last updated September 2026
Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH7560J1 — $51.95 ·
Door Seal Gasket WH7560P1/J1/P2/J2/J3 — $42.95 ·
Drain Pump WH7560J1–P1 — $49.95 ·
Heater Element — $34.85 ·
Inlet Valve Dual — $29.85 ·
Door Latch Hook — $19.95 ·
Drain Hose — $19.95 ·
Pump Filter — $12.95 ·
Spider Complete Kit WH7560P1 — $199.95 ·
Not sure which part? Use the Part Finder
Common faults on the Fisher & Paykel WH7560
The Fisher & Paykel WH7560 is one of the most widespread front loaders in Australian laundries, sold over several years in a series of variants — WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH7560J3, WH7560P1, and WH7560P2. The wear points are consistent across the family: drum bearings that begin to rumble after years of service, a door seal that eventually perishes or grows mould, and a drain pump that fails with age. The lip seal and bearings kit is by far the most requested part for this model, because bearing noise is the classic end-of-honeymoon fault on this platform.
Before ordering parts, locate the model sticker on the door jamb (the frame exposed when you open the door) and note the full model code including the letters and digit after WH7560 — some parts fit the whole family, while others are specific to the J-series or P-series variants. The listings below name the variants each part suits.
| Part | Symptom | Price | Link |
|---|---|---|---|
 Lip seal + bearings kit | Loud grinding or rumbling noise during the spin cycle; excessive vibration even on a balanced load; bearing noise that worsens over time; rust marks or grey water stains on washing | $51.95 | Buy bearings kit |
 Door seal gasket | Water leaking from the front of the machine during the wash cycle; visible black mould growth on the rubber gasket; cracking or tearing of the boot seal | $42.95 | Buy door seal |
 Drain pump | Water remaining in the drum at the end of the cycle; machine pausing mid-cycle without draining; humming or rattling from the lower front of the machine during drain | $49.95 | Buy drain pump |
 Heater element | Warm and hot cycles wash cold; cycle times stretch out as the machine waits to reach temperature; poor results on programs that rely on heated water | $34.85 | Buy heater element |
 Inlet valve (dual) | Machine won’t fill with water; fill is very slow; humming noise from the valve area but no water entering the drum; detergent not flushing from the dispenser drawer | $29.85 | Buy inlet valve |
 Door latch hook | Door won’t click shut or pops open; machine refuses to start because the door never registers as closed; visible wear or a broken tab on the hook | $19.95 | Buy door latch hook |
Diagnosis guide – Fisher & Paykel WH7560
- Listen during the spin cycle. A low-frequency grinding or rumbling that increases with drum speed points to worn drum bearings. Spin the empty drum by hand — a rough, gravelly feel or audible rumble confirms it. If the rumbling started gradually and has been getting worse, the lip seal has likely already failed and water has entered the bearing housing.
- Inspect the door seal. Run your fingers around the entire circumference of the rubber boot, paying attention to the lower section at the six o’clock position where water pools. Any crack, split, or mould penetration deeper than the surface layer means the seal should be replaced.
- Check for standing water after the cycle. If the drum still has water when the cycle ends, clean the pump filter first — the small access panel at the lower front of the machine. If the filter is clear and water still isn’t draining, the drain pump has failed.
- Test the wash temperature. Run a warm cycle and feel the door glass twenty minutes in. If it stays cold, the heater element has failed — a multimeter continuity check across the element terminals confirms it.
- Test the door latch. If the door won’t click shut, or shuts but the machine never starts, inspect the plastic latch hook on the door first — it is a cheaper and more common failure than the lock assembly behind it.
- Confirm the water supply. Before replacing the inlet valve, verify the taps behind the machine are fully open and the inlet hose filter screens are not blocked with sediment. If pressure is good but the machine still won’t fill, the valve solenoid has failed.
Fitting the parts yourself
Most repairs on the WH7560 are within reach of anyone with basic tool skills. The door seal, drain pump, pump filter, inlet valve, and door latch hook are all accessible via the front or lower panels, and the heater element is reached from the rear. Replacing the door seal takes under an hour for most people — the fiddly part is reseating the retaining spring clip evenly around the outer lip.
Bearing replacement is the most involved repair on any front loader. It means splitting the outer tub, pressing out the old bearings, and fitting the new lip seal and bearings — a 90-minute to two-hour job that benefits from a socket set large enough to drive the new bearings home evenly. While the tub is open, inspect the spider (the three-armed casting behind the drum): if the bearing failure has been running for a long time, the spider arms can corrode, and a spider complete kit ($199.95, suits WH7560P1) lets you fix both in one tear-down rather than opening the machine twice.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my Fisher & Paykel WH7560 making a loud noise on spin?
A grinding or jet-engine rumble that builds with spin speed is almost always worn drum bearings. The fix is the lip seal and bearings kit listed above. Replace the lip seal at the same time — the seal failing is what lets water reach the bearings in the first place, so fitting new bearings behind an old seal invites a repeat failure.
Which WH7560 variant do I have?
Check the model sticker on the door jamb. The full code will read WH7560J1, WH7560J2, WH7560J3, WH7560P1, or WH7560P2. Parts listings on this page name the exact variants they suit — match the full code, not just WH7560, before ordering.
Why won’t my WH7560 drain?
Clean the pump filter behind the lower front access panel first — lint, coins, and hair ties cause more drain failures than dead pumps do. If the filter is clear and the machine still won’t drain, replace the drain pump. Also check the drain hose behind the machine isn’t kinked; a replacement hose is listed above if yours is damaged.
How long should a WH7560 door seal last?
Under normal Australian household use, a door seal typically lasts six to ten years. Wiping the seal dry and leaving the door ajar between washes extends its life significantly. The door seal listed above is cross-listed for the WH7560 family alongside the equivalent Haier front loaders that use the same gasket.
Is it worth repairing a WH7560 or should I replace it?
For the common faults — door seal, drain pump, heater, latch, inlet valve — every part is under $55, a small fraction of the price of a new front loader. Even a full bearing job with a spider kit comes in well under replacement cost if the cabinet and electronics are sound. A machine with multiple concurrent electrical faults on the main board is a different calculation.
Related
- Fisher & Paykel WH8060P3 parts — common faults and fixes
- Fisher & Paykel WH8560 parts
- Fisher & Paykel WH8060 parts
- Part Finder Quiz — enter your model number for matched results
- Browse all WH7560 parts
Ready to fix it?
- Locate the model sticker on your door jamb and note the full model code — WH7560J1, J2, J3, P1, or P2.
- Note the fault the machine is showing — spin noise, leak, no drain, cold washes, or door not latching.
- Select the matching part from the table above, or use the Part Finder if you’re unsure.
- Add to cart at ozappliancespares.com.au — orders placed before the daily cut-off ship same day from Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
