Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common cause of a Westinghouse LD or Electrolux EDV sensor dryer that hums but will not turn, or squeals while it turns, is a worn drum belt, a stiff idler pulley or a dry rear drum bearing — often more than one, because each wears the other. Replacing all three is about an hour’s job with the front and top panels off. Here is how to confirm which part is at fault before you buy, which model numbers share the parts, and why the three-part kit is the sensible way to buy them.
Last updated August 2026
One dryer platform, three badges
Westinghouse LD-series and Electrolux EDV and EDE-series vented dryers, the sensor models included, are built on the same platform as the Simpson 39S and SDV dryers. Behind the different front panels the drive train is identical: a motor pulley, a long 6-rib drum belt, a tensioning idler pulley and a single rear bearing the drum spins on. That is why the same three part numbers — the 0198300010 drum belt, 0197300040 idler pulley and 0542377026 rear drum bearing — appear on all three brands’ parts lists.
A single 8 uF dryer run capacitor fits 67 documented dryer models across Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux — and the same three brands share the 0542377026 rear drum bearing.
So if your model sticker reads LD505EB, LD605EB, EDV505, EDV5552 or EDV6051, you need the same belt, pulley and bearing a Simpson owner buys.
Model numbers this kit matches
Find the model sticker (usually inside the door opening or on the rear of the cabinet) and match the model number against the table. The kit bundles the drum belt, idler pulley and rear drum bearing, and it is priced $10 below buying the three parts separately.
| Brand on the front | Model number on the model sticker | Kit that matches |
|---|---|---|
 Westinghouse | LD500B, LD505EB, LD605EB, LD352A, LD353A, LD503A, LD504A, LD505A, LD515A | Westinghouse & Electrolux dryer belt, idler pulley & rear bearing kit — 0198300010 belt, 0197300040 pulley, 0542377026 bearing |
| Electrolux | EDV505, EDV5051, EDV5552, EDV6051, EDV6552, EDV605S, EDV605HQWA, EDE605A | Same kit |
 Simpson | 39P400M, 39S500M, 39S600M, SDV401, SDV501, SDV601, SDV556HQWA | Same three parts — Simpson-titled listing: Simpson dryer belt, idler pulley & rear bearing kit |
If your sticker carries a suffix after the model number, or your model is not in the table, send us the full number as printed and we will check it before you order.
What each worn part sounds like
Motor hums or runs, drum does not turn
The motor and fan run, warm air may even reach the vent, but the drum sits still. Turn the drum by hand: if it spins freely and silently, the belt has snapped or jumped off the motor pulley. This is the classic LD505EB and EDV505 fault after years of daily use.
Squeal on start-up that fades as the dryer warms
A high, steady squeal from low in the cabinet, worst on a cold morning and easing after a few minutes, is nearly always the idler pulley. It stops spinning freely and the belt drags across it; left long enough the belt glazes and you may notice a hot-rubber smell.
Rumble or scrape that grows with a heavier load
A lower rumble or rhythmic scrape from the back of the drum, worse with a wet load of towels, points at the rear drum bearing. As it wears the drum drops slightly at the rear and can rub on the back panel — the noise EDV5552 and EDV6051 owners usually describe as “grinding”.
Confirm the fault before you buy
- Unplug the dryer at the wall. If it is on a wall bracket, lift it down first (a two-person job); every check below is easier on the floor.
- Turn the drum by hand from the front. Free and silent means the belt is off or broken. Firm, even resistance means the belt is on. Notchy or gritty, with a scrape from the back, means the rear bearing.
- Listen while you turn it slowly. A squeak once per drum revolution comes from the rear bearing. A faster chirp from behind the lower front panel comes from the idler pulley.
- Take the front and top panels off and look. A tired belt shows cracks across the ribs, a glazed surface or frayed edges. Spin the idler pulley on its pin: it should turn freely and quietly with no wobble. Check the rear bearing and the plastic support it sits in for wear, cracks or a worn groove.
- Rule out the capacitor. If the belt is on, the drum turns freely by hand, but the motor only hums, suspect the run capacitor rather than the belt path — see our guide to a dryer drum that won’t turn while the motor hums.
Why replace all three at once
The three parts wear each other. A new belt over a stiff idler pulley squeals within weeks and glazes, and you are back inside the cabinet. A rough rear bearing drags on the drum, stretches the new belt and lets it slip. And all three are in front of you once the panels are off — the strip-down is the same whether you change one part or three.
That is the case for the Westinghouse and Electrolux belt, pulley and bearing kit: one order, one job, priced $10 below buying the three parts separately.
The honest counter-cases:
- If the belt has snapped on an otherwise quiet dryer, the idler pulley spins freely and the rear bearing feels smooth, a 0198-300-010 sensor dryer drum belt on its own is a reasonable buy; our which dryer belt fits my model lookup covers that path.
- If only the pulley is noisy and the belt is recent and unglazed, the 0197300040 idler pulley is sold on its own too — but a belt that has been dragging over a seized pulley is rarely worth keeping.
- The kit’s bearing is the 0542377026 rear drum bearing only. If the plastic support plate behind it is cracked or grooved, buy the Electrolux rear drum bearing and support instead so the new bearing has a sound seat, and add the belt and pulley to that order.
Doing the job on the LD and EDV cabinet
Allow about an hour, unplugged, dryer on the floor. In outline:
- Remove the top panel, then the front panel, supporting the drum as the front comes away.
- Photograph how the old belt threads between the idler pulley and the motor pulley before you disturb it — routing is what catches people out on reassembly.
- Release the belt tension at the idler, slip the belt off, lift the drum out and change the rear drum bearing.
- Fit the new idler pulley, refit the drum and route the new belt exactly as the old one ran, following your photo.
- Vacuum the lint from the base while it is open, then reassemble and run an empty cycle to listen.
For the pulley and belt side in more detail, see Electrolux or Simpson dryer squealing: idler pulley and drum belt fix; for the bearing, see Electrolux dryer squealing: replace the drum bearing. If you would rather not do it yourself, the kit is a small parcel to hand to a local repairer. Compare it with our other dryer bundles on the Repair Kits page.
What the kit does not fix
The “sensor” in these models is about how the dryer decides the load is dry; the belt drive underneath is the same as on the Simpson dryers it shares parts with. So the kit fixes a drum that will not turn, the squeal and the rumble. It does not fix a dryer with no heat, one that stops early with damp clothes, or a motor that hums while the drum spins free — that last one is the 8 uF run capacitor shared across the three brands; confirm it against your model number before ordering.
Frequently asked questions
My Westinghouse LD505EB hums but the drum does not turn. Is it always the belt?
Usually, but check first. Unplug it and turn the drum by hand. Free and silent means the belt has snapped or come off. Firm resistance with a motor that only hums points at the run capacitor instead. Grinding at the back means the rear bearing needs doing as well.
Do the Electrolux EDV5552 and EDV6051 use the same belt as the Westinghouse LD605EB?
Yes. Every model in the table above uses the 1930 mm, 6-rib 0198300010 drum belt, the 0197300040 idler pulley and the 0542377026 rear drum bearing, which is why one kit covers Westinghouse, Electrolux and Simpson models.
I replaced the belt on my EDV505 last year and it is squealing again. Why?
Almost certainly because the idler pulley or rear bearing that killed the first belt was left in place. A new belt over a stiff pulley glazes and squeals within weeks. This time do all three — the belt, pulley and bearing kit exists for exactly this second visit.
The plastic bearing support behind my drum is cracked. Does the kit cover that?
No. The kit contains the belt, the idler pulley and the rear drum bearing only. If the support plate is cracked or grooved, buy the bearing-and-support product mentioned above and order the belt and idler pulley to go with it.
How long does the job take and what tools do I need?
About an hour for a first-timer, front and top panels off. Screwdrivers, a small socket or nut-driver set, a torch and a vacuum cover it. Unplug the dryer first and take it off its wall bracket if it has one.
My model is not in the table. Will the kit fit?
We only list model numbers we have matched to these three parts, and we would rather not guess. Send us the full model number from the model sticker, suffix included, and we will check — or use the part finder to narrow it down.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
