Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your dryer hums but the drum won’t turn, do one hand test. A dead-still drum usually means a failed run capacitor. A drum that spins freely by hand but won’t drive means a snapped belt. A stiff or squealing drum means the bearing.
Last updated June 2026
That low hum with a drum that refuses to tumble is one of the most common dryer faults we get asked about, and the good news is it almost always comes down to one of three cheap parts. This page is the cross-brand decision tree. In two minutes, with the machine unplugged, you can tell the run capacitor from a snapped belt from a worn drum bearing, then jump straight to the right part and the deeper guide for your brand.
If you already know you own a Fisher & Paykel and it hums without spinning, skip the triage and go straight to our brand guide on a Fisher & Paykel dryer that won’t start or just hums. Everyone else, start below.
Why does my dryer hum but the drum won’t turn?
A hum means the motor is getting power and trying to run, but something is stopping the drum from turning under load. On most vented and condenser dryers, three things can cause that.
- The run capacitor has failed. The single-phase motor in a dryer needs a capacitor to give it the initial push to start spinning. When that capacitor weakens or dies, the motor buzzes or hums but cannot generate enough torque to break away from a standstill. The drum sits completely still. This is the most common cause of “hums but won’t turn”.
- The belt has snapped. The belt wraps around the drum and the motor pulley. If it snaps or slips off, the motor spins happily on its own, but nothing is connected to the drum, so the drum stays put while the motor hums or whirs.
- The drum bearing has seized or worn. The drum rides on a bearing or shaft at the back (and rollers at the front on some models). When that bearing dries out or fails, the drum becomes stiff, notchy or noisy to turn. A badly seized bearing can load the motor so heavily that it just hums and gives up, or the belt slips because the drum is too stiff to move.
You do not need to guess. The machine will tell you which one it is if you turn the drum by hand.
The two-minute test by hand (do this first)
Isolate the dryer from power before you touch anything: switch it off and pull the plug from the wall, or trip the circuit if it is hardwired. Do not rely on the machine’s own off button. Then open the door and reach in.
Turn the drum by hand and feel what it does.
- The drum is dead still and hard to start moving, but once you get it going it spins freely and smoothly. The mechanics are fine, so the motor is not getting the kick it needs. That points to the run capacitor.
- The drum spins freely and easily by hand, spins on for a moment when you let go, yet the motor just hums and never drives it under power. The drum is disconnected from the motor. That points to a snapped or slipped belt. On many models you can look through the door gap or pull the top to confirm the belt is lying loose in the base.
- The drum is stiff, notchy, gritty or squeals as you turn it, or it will barely move at all. The drum itself is binding. That points to a worn or seized drum bearing (and often a burning or hot smell after a run).
That single test sorts the vast majority of cases. Use the table below to go straight to the part and the deeper guide.
Which part do I need? Symptom-to-part router
| What the drum does by hand | Likely cause | Part (example) | Price | Buy | Deeper guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Dead still, but spins freely once moving | Run capacitor | Simpson/Westinghouse/Electrolux run capacitor 8µF, p/n 0588400004 | $16.88 AUD | Buy the capacitor | F&P won’t start / humming |
 Spins freely, motor hums but won’t drive | Snapped or slipped belt | Simpson/Westinghouse Eziset & Loader dryer belt 1930mm, p/n 0198-300-010 | $12.29 AUD | Buy the belt | Vented dryer repair hub |
 Stiff, notchy or squealing to turn | Worn drum bearing | Dryer drum bearing kit (match your brand/model) | from $29.95 AUD | Buy a bearing kit | Drum bearing noise fix |
A few notes on the parts. The run capacitor above (8µF, part number 0588400004, our reference 0226) is the genuine fit for a long list of Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux dryers, and a run capacitor is the classic culprit behind the hum. Capacitor values differ between models, so match the µF rating and your model number before ordering. The belt (part number 0198-300-010) suits the Simpson and Westinghouse Eziset and Loader vented range; belts are brand-specific by length, so confirm your model. Bearing kits are the most model-specific of the three, priced from $29.95, so use the drum bearing kit search or the part finder to get the exact kit for your machine.
Safety first — the capacitor holds a charge
This one matters. A dryer run capacitor stores a dangerous electrical charge even when the machine is unplugged. It can hold that charge for a long time after the power is off, and touching the terminals can give you a serious shock.
Before anyone opens the cabinet: isolate the dryer from power at the wall, and then have a competent person or a qualified appliance technician safely discharge and handle the capacitor. Do not poke at capacitor terminals with bare hands or a screwdriver hoping for the best. If you are not confident discharging a capacitor correctly, this is the point to call a tech.
The belt and the bearing are purely mechanical parts, so once the machine is unplugged they are safe to inspect and replace. It is only the capacitor that carries the stored-charge risk.
When to call a technician vs DIY
The hand test itself is safe for anyone once the plug is out. What you do next depends on which of the three parts it is.
- Belt: the most DIY-friendly of the three. If you can pull the top or front panel, loop the new belt around the drum and motor pulley, and get the tension right, it is a straightforward job. Our vented dryer repair hub walks through belt access on the Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux range, including the safe wall-mount step.
- Bearing: more involved, because you usually have to split the cabinet and pull the drum. Doable for a confident home handyperson, but budget time. The drum bearing noise guide covers the symptoms and the swap.
- Capacitor: the part is cheap and the swap is quick, but the stored charge makes it the one to treat with respect. If you are a competent person comfortable discharging a capacitor and working around mains components, it is a DIY job. If not, hand it to a qualified technician. Around the Northern Beaches plenty of tradies will happily fit a part you have already bought, which keeps the cost right down.
If your machine is a heat pump or condenser model rather than a vented dryer, the same hand test applies, but the belt path and bearing layout differ, so confirm against your model sticker (usually inside the door opening or on the back of the cabinet).
Frequently asked questions
My dryer hums but the drum won’t turn — what is it?
Most often the run capacitor. The motor gets power and hums, but without a working capacitor it cannot generate the torque to start the drum. Do the hand test: if the drum is dead still to start but spins freely once moving, the mechanics are fine and the capacitor is the likely fault.
How do I tell a snapped belt from a bad capacitor?
Turn the drum by hand with the dryer unplugged. If it spins freely and easily and even coasts a little, but the motor just hums under power, the belt has snapped or slipped and the drum is disconnected from the motor. If the drum is hard to get started but then turns smoothly, the belt is intact and the capacitor is the suspect.
Can I replace a dryer capacitor myself?
Only if you are competent and confident, because a run capacitor holds a dangerous charge even when unplugged. Always isolate the dryer from power first, then have a competent person or a qualified technician discharge and handle the capacitor. If discharging a capacitor is outside your comfort zone, get a tech to do it.
How much are these parts?
The Simpson/Westinghouse/Electrolux run capacitor (0588400004) is $16.88 AUD, the Eziset and Loader dryer belt (0198-300-010) is $12.29 AUD, and drum bearing kits start from $29.95 AUD depending on brand and model. All ship same day from our Sydney warehouse when you order before cut-off.
Which part number fits my dryer?
Match your model sticker to the part. Capacitors are matched by µF rating and model, belts by length and model, and bearing kits by exact model. Check the model sticker inside the door opening or on the back of the cabinet, or run the part finder quiz and we will point you to the right one.
Why does my dryer squeal and struggle to turn?
A squeal or a stiff, notchy drum points to a worn drum bearing, not the capacitor or belt. The bearing has dried out or failed, so the drum binds and can overload the motor. See our drum bearing noise guide for the fix.
Fix the hum and get the drum turning again
Once you have done the hand test you will know whether you are chasing the capacitor, the belt or the bearing. All three are in stock, genuine or correct-fit for your model, and dispatched same day from our Sydney warehouse. Grab the exact part from our dryer parts store, or run the part finder quiz if you want us to confirm the right one for your model first.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
