Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A squealing or chirping Simpson or Electrolux dryer, or one whose drum turns slowly or stops, usually needs the idler (tensioner) pulley (0197300040) and the drum belt (7PH1930). We sell them together as a pulley-and-belt pair, priced under the two parts bought separately, with same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.
Last updated June 2026
Why is my Electrolux or Simpson dryer squealing / chirping?
Inside a vented dryer, one long belt wraps right around the drum and drives it from the motor. To keep that belt tight, a small spring-loaded arm pushes a free-spinning wheel — the idler pulley, also called the tensioner — against the belt. The spring holds the tension; the pulley just rides along and lets the belt run smoothly.
That pulley spins on a small bearing. Over years of heat and use, the grease in that bearing dries out. Once it does, the pulley no longer turns freely, and you hear it: a high-pitched squeal, a rhythmic chirp, or a dry rubbing sound that rises and falls with the drum. It is usually loudest when the dryer first starts, and it often eases for a moment once things warm up, then comes back. Some people describe it as a bird chirping inside the machine.
At the same time, the belt itself wears. It is a thin, ribbed rubber band, and heat makes it stretch, glaze and crack. A stretched belt can no longer grip properly, so the drum turns slowly, hesitates, or stops turning altogether while the motor keeps humming. A glazed or perished belt can also slip against the drum and add its own squeak.
Because the pulley and the belt work as a pair, and because they are both consumable rubber-and-bearing parts that wear at a similar rate, it makes sense to replace them together. That is exactly why this part is sold as a kit: the idler pulley 0197300040 and the drum belt 7PH1930, in the one purchase.
Idler pulley or belt — how do I tell which?
You can usually narrow it down by the type of noise and how the drum behaves. Here is the plain-English version.
It is probably the idler pulley if:
- You hear a squeal or a steady chirp, but the drum still turns normally.
- The noise is worst on start-up and settles as the machine warms.
- The sound has a clear rhythm to it that follows the drum going around.
- The clothes still dry, but the machine has become loud.
It is probably the belt if:
- The drum turns slowly, hesitates, or does not turn at all while the motor still runs and hums.
- You hear a slap, thump or slipping sound rather than a clean squeal.
- Clothes come out damp because the drum is barely moving.
- You can smell a faint hot-rubber odour.
It is very likely both if:
- You have had the dryer for many years and never changed either part.
- There is a squeal now, and the drum has also started to feel weak or slow.
- The belt looks stretched, cracked or shiny when you look inside.
In practice, a dry pulley bearing and a tired belt tend to arrive together, and replacing only one often leaves you doing the job twice. The kit takes that guesswork away.
Checks in order (cheapest first)
Work through these before you order anything. Always switch the dryer off at the wall and unplug it first.
- Empty the drum and spin it by hand. With the power off, open the door and turn the drum. It should spin fairly freely with a little resistance from the belt. If it feels loose and floppy, the belt has likely stretched or come off. If it feels tight and you can hear the pulley scraping, the bearing is dry.
- Listen at start-up. Run the dryer empty for a moment and note the noise. A clean, high squeal or chirp points to the pulley. A slap or thump points to the belt.
- Check the lint filter and airflow. Not the cause of a squeal, but a blocked filter makes the whole machine work harder and run hotter, which shortens belt life. Clean it while you are here.
- Look at the model sticker. Find the model number on the sticker — usually inside the door rim, around the back, or on the base — so you can confirm the fit before buying. (This is the sticker some people call the model sticker.)
- Have a look inside, if you are comfortable. With the machine unplugged, the rear or top panel can come off to expose the belt and pulley. A stretched, cracked or glazed belt and a stiff, discoloured pulley confirm the diagnosis.
If those checks point to the tensioner squeal or a slipping drum, the idler-pulley-and-belt kit below is the fix.
Which idler pulley and belt fit my dryer?
This kit covers a wide range of Simpson, Westinghouse and Hoover vented dryers built on the same drum-and-belt platform. The idler pulley is 0197300040 and the drum belt is 7PH1930.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine / Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Idler pulley + drum belt (kit) — see listing | Westinghouse LD352A, LD353A, LD503A, LD515A, LD500B, LD505EB, LD504A, LD505A, LD605EB; Simpson 39P400M, 39S500M, 39S600M, SDV401, SDV501, SDV601, EDV505, EDV605, EDV605S, EDE605A, EDV5552, EDV6051, EDV605HQWA; Hoover 3525DB, 3530DB, 5030DB, 5040EDB, 5050EDB, D6174–D6772 range, K352DB, K503DB, K505EDB, K5050EDB | Genuine | $44.95 | Buy now |
In full: this genuine kit fits the Westinghouse LD352A, LD353A, LD503A, LD515A, LD500B, LD505EB, LD504A, LD505A and LD605EB dryers. It fits the Simpson 39P400M, 39S500M, 39S600M, SDV401, SDV501, SDV601, EDV505, EDV605, EDV605S, EDE605A, EDV5552, EDV6051 and EDV605HQWA. And it fits the Hoover 3525DB, 3530DB, 5030DB, 5040EDB and 5050EDB, the D6174 through D6772 range, and the K352DB, K503DB, K505EDB and K5050EDB. These brands share the same Electrolux-built cabinet, so the belt length and pulley mount are the same across the list.
If your model number is not shown, or you are not sure which variant you have, run it through our part finder quiz or check the model sticker first. It is a two-minute check that saves ordering the wrong part.
If you have already diagnosed a stretched or slipping belt only — no squeal, no dry bearing — the drum belt on its own is covered in our separate guide, the Simpson Sirocco dryer fan belt guide. This page is for the squeal or tensioner fault, where the smart fix is the idler pulley plus belt kit together, so that a fresh belt is not run over a worn, dry pulley.
How to replace the idler pulley and drum belt
This is a manageable DIY job with basic hand tools. Allow about 45 minutes the first time. Always work with the dryer switched off at the wall and unplugged.
- Unplug the dryer and move it out. Give yourself room to reach the back and, if needed, lay the machine on its front on a blanket.
- Remove the rear (or top) panel. Take out the screws holding the access panel and set them aside in a cup so none go missing. You will now see the drum, the belt around it and the idler pulley on its spring arm.
- Note how the belt is routed. Before you touch anything, take a photo on your phone. You want to know exactly how the belt runs around the drum, over the idler pulley and around the motor pulley.
- Release the tension and slip off the old belt. Push the idler arm to release the spring pressure, then work the old belt off the motor pulley and slide it off the drum. Compare it to the new 7PH1930 — you will usually see the old one is stretched, cracked or shiny.
- Replace the idler pulley. Undo the retainer holding the pulley 0197300040 on its arm, lift off the old one and fit the new pulley. Give it a spin by hand — it should turn freely and quietly. That free spin is the whole point of the job.
- Fit the new drum belt. Wrap the new belt around the drum in the correct groove, then route it over the new idler pulley and around the motor pulley exactly as your photo shows. Push the idler arm to take up the slack so the spring pulls the belt tight.
- Turn the drum by hand. Rotate the drum a full turn or two. The belt should track evenly and stay in its groove, and the pulley should turn smoothly with it.
- Refit the panel, plug in and test. Put the panel back, reconnect power and run the dryer empty for a minute. The squeal should be gone and the drum should turn strongly and quietly.
If at any point the belt will not sit in its groove or the drum feels wrong, stop and recheck your routing photo before running the machine.
When to call a technician vs DIY
Swapping the idler pulley and drum belt is well within reach for most confident DIYers, and this kit is designed for exactly that. Do the job yourself if you are comfortable removing a panel, you can safely move the machine, and the diagnosis clearly points to the squeal or a slipping belt.
Call a qualified technician or one of the local tradies if any of the following apply:
- The machine is hard-wired or you are unsure about the electrical side.
- You have fitted the new belt and pulley and the noise or slipping continues — that can point to a worn drum bearing, a failing motor or a seized front glide, which are separate repairs.
- There is a burning smell, scorching, or signs of overheating. Stop using the dryer and have it checked.
- The drum itself feels rough, wobbly or grinds when you turn it by hand, suggesting a bearing beyond the belt and pulley.
For the common squeal-and-slip fault on these Simpson, Westinghouse and Hoover models, though, the idler pulley and belt kit is the standard fix, and most people knock it over in an afternoon.
Not sure this is your machine? Start with the part finder quiz, or step back up to our full Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux vented dryer repair hub to match your symptom to the right part.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my Electrolux dryer squeal only when it starts?
On start-up the idler pulley bearing is cold and dry, so it resists turning and squeals. As the machine warms, the metal expands slightly and the noise can ease for a while, then return. That start-up squeal is the classic sign of a dry pulley bearing, and it is what this kit fixes.
Should I replace the belt and the pulley together or just one?
Together is the sensible choice. The belt and idler pulley wear at a similar rate under the same heat and load, and a new belt run over a worn, dry pulley will squeal and wear out sooner. That is why 0197300040 and 7PH1930 are sold as one kit — you fix the whole tensioner system in one go.
How do I know part 0197300040 and belt 7PH1930 fit my dryer?
Check the model number on the model sticker — usually inside the door rim, at the back, or on the base — and match it against the list above. If your model is not listed or you are unsure, run it through our part finder quiz before you buy.
How long does the idler pulley and belt job take?
Allow about 45 minutes the first time, working with basic hand tools and the machine unplugged. The fiddliest part is routing the new belt over the drum, idler and motor pulley correctly, which is why we suggest taking a photo of the old routing first.
How much does the idler pulley and drum belt kit cost?
The genuine kit — idler pulley 0197300040 and drum belt 7PH1930 — is $44.95, with same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse on orders placed before the daily cut-off.
Ready to silence the squeal? The genuine idler pulley and drum belt kit fits the Simpson, Westinghouse and Hoover models listed above, ships same-day from our Sydney warehouse, and is everything you need to fix the tensioner squeal and get the drum turning strongly again. Browse more dryer parts here, or grab the kit now.
**Buy the Genuine Electrolux Dryer Idler Pulley 0197300040 & Drum Belt 7PH1930 — $44.95 →**
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
