Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Run a washing machine checklist in this order: the pump filter, the drain hose and tap, the load and the levelling feet, the door seal and latch, the detergent drawer, then a short cycle while you listen for fill, wash, drain and spin. Most leaks, smells and slow drains end at the filter or the seal. The parts that follow are the drain pump, the door seal, the inlet valve, the drive belt, the door lock and the suspension, each matched by the model number on your sticker.
Bosch Washing Machine Door Seal 20000271 2004575 WGA254U0AU/01, WGA254X00W/01In stock · Sydney warehouseView part- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal H0020300940A WH1260F1 WH1260F2 WH1160F2In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- LG Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket WV5-1408W WV5-1409W WV5-1410W WV6-1409W (sku2450516)In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Samsung Washing Machine Door Seal WW90M645OPM, WW90M645OPO, WW90M645OPWIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Bosch 00145093 Front Loader Washing machine Drain Pump With Filter WAW32640AU WAY32891AUIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- LG AHA75693503 Washing Machine Drain Pump DC 26V NA 20W WTG7520 WTG8521In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Fisher Paykel CleanSmart Washing Machine 5 Way Inlet Valve 424887PIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Samsung Washing Machine 5 Way Inlet Valve WA10J7700GW,WA10J7750GW,WA10J8700GPIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Genuine Samsung Washing Machine Drive Belt WW75T504DTW WW85T554DAW WW75J54E0IWIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- H0024000128d Haier Washing Machine DOOR INTERLOCK HWF75AW2, HWF85AW2 0059In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All washing machine parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Last updated October 2026
Before you start: the sticker, a towel and a tray
The model sticker is inside the door rim on a front loader, under the lid or on the back panel on a top loader. Write the full code down now, letters and numbers, because every part on this page is matched by it and the badge on the front is not enough. Switch the machine off at the wall before you open the pump filter or reach behind it, and have a towel and a shallow tray ready: the filter housing always holds a litre or two.
The 15-point washing machine checklist
Checks 1 to 8 cost nothing and settle most calls. Checks 9 to 15 are done by running a short cycle and watching.
| # | Check | How | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pump filter | Front loader: open the flap at the bottom, drain into a tray, unscrew the filter | Coins, hair clips and lint stop the drain and the spin | Clean; run a rinse and spin |
| 2 | Drain hose and standpipe | Hose not kinked, not pushed too far into the standpipe, rises to the right height | A kinked or sunk hose drains slowly or siphons back | Reroute |
| 3 | Taps and inlet hoses | Both taps fully open; hose filters at the tap end rinsed | Low flow gives a fill error before the wash starts | Clean the filters |
| 4 | Load and balance | One heavy item or a half load; machine level on all four feet | Walking, banging and an unbalanced-load stop | Reload; adjust the feet |
| 5 | Door seal | Fold the lip back; look for a split, a bulge or black mould; check the drain holes at six o’clock | A torn seal leaks at the front; mould is a smell that will not wash out | Door seal (table below) |
| 6 | Door latch | Door clicks shut; panel lights; cycle starts | A latch that does not click leaves the machine dead | Door lock (table below) |
| 7 | Detergent drawer | Pull it out, clear the jelly and the siphon tube | Blocked drawer: suds overflow, residue on clothes | Clean |
| 8 | Power | Panel lights; another appliance in the socket | No lights and no click: the socket, not the machine | Another socket, then an electrician |
| 9 | Fill | Start a cycle; water should arrive within a minute | A hum and no water, or a fill error: the inlet valve | Inlet valve (table below) |
| 10 | Wash | Drum turns both ways; motor sounds even | Drum still but motor hums: belt off or snapped | Drive belt (table below) |
| 11 | Drain | Water still in the drum at the end of the cycle | Filter clean, hose clear, still standing water: the drain pump | Drain pump (table below) |
| 12 | Spin | Spin starts, drum stays slow or stops | Unbalanced load, a worn belt, or a lid or door switch | Checks 4, 6, 10 |
| 13 | Noise on spin | Rumble like a jet, or grinding that gets louder | Drum bearings worn; water in the bearing housing | Bearing kit (table below) |
| 14 | Banging or walking | Drum bangs the cabinet; machine moves on spin | Suspension rods or shock absorbers tired | Suspension (table below) |
| 15 | Leak | Towel on the floor; torch under the machine mid-cycle | Seal at the front, hose or filter cap underneath, pump body at the back | Seal, hose or pump |
Where the free checks end and the parts begin
Checks 5 and 9 to 15 point at a part. On the front loaders sold in Australia in the last ten years the parts that fail are, in rough order, the door seal, the drain pump, the drum bearings, the inlet valve, the door lock, the drive belt and the suspension. All of them are listed by model number, and most are a screwdriver-and-towel job with the machine off at the wall. The symptom pages go deeper: washing machine not draining, not spinning, leaking from the bottom, grinding noise and door won’t open.
Match the part to your model sticker
Each row names the checklist item, the part, and the models on the sticker that the listing covers. Match the full code against the listing title before you order.
| Check | Part | Models on your sticker | Part listed for it |
|---|---|---|---|
 5, 15 | Door seal | Bosch WGA254U0AU, WGA254X00W | Bosch washing machine door seal |
 5, 15 | Door seal | Fisher & Paykel WH1260F1, WH1260F2, WH1160F2 | Fisher & Paykel washing machine door seal |
 5, 15 | Door seal | LG WV5-1408W, WV5-1409W, WV5-1410W, WV6-1409W | LG washing machine door seal |
 5, 15 | Door seal | Samsung WW90M645OPM, WW90M645OPO, WW90M645OPW | Samsung washing machine door seal |
 5, 15 | Door seal | Hisense HWF3S7514X, HWF3S8514X | Hisense washing machine door seal |
 5, 15 | Door seal | CHiQ WFL85T48W2 | CHiQ washing machine door seal |
 11 | Drain pump | Bosch WAW32640AU, WAY32891AU | Bosch washing machine drain pump with filter |
 11 | Drain pump | Haier HWMP60-118, HWMP65-918, HWMP70-118, HWMP75-918 | Haier washing machine drain pump |
 11 | Drain pump | LG WTG7520, WTG8521 | LG washing machine drain pump |
 9 | Inlet valve | Fisher & Paykel CleanSmart top loaders (check the listing) | Fisher & Paykel washing machine inlet valve |
 9 | Inlet valve | Samsung WA10J7700GW, WA10J7750GW, WA10J8700GP | Samsung washing machine inlet valve |
 9 | Inlet valve | Westinghouse and Electrolux (check the listing) | Westinghouse and Electrolux washing machine inlet valve |
 10, 12 | Drive belt | Samsung WW75T504DTW, WW85T554DAW, WW75J54E0IW | Samsung washing machine drive belt |
 10, 12 | Drive belt | Hisense HWFM8012, HWFV7512 | Hisense washing machine drive belt |
 6 | Door lock | Haier HWF75AW2, HWF85AW2 | Haier washing machine door interlock |
 6 | Door lock | Hisense HWF5S1214, HWF3S8514, HWF8I1015B | Hisense washing machine door lock |
 6 | Door lock | Electrolux EWF1041ZDWA, EWF1041R9WB, EWF1042BDWA | Electrolux washing machine door lock switch |
 13 | Bearing kit | Haier HWF75AW1, HWF75AW2, HWM70-1201 | Haier washing machine lip seal and bearings kit |
 13 | Bearing kit | Bosch WAS28440AU | Bosch washing machine lip seal and bearings kit |
 14 | Suspension | LG WTG6520, WTG7520, WTS6520 | LG washing machine suspension |
 14 | Shock absorber | Samsung front loaders (check the listing) | Samsung washing machine shock absorber |
 9, 15 | Pressure switch | Haier HWF12D1W1, HWF75AW1, HWF75AW2, HWF80BW1 | Haier washing machine pressure switch |
Not in the table? Browse all washing machine parts or the door seals listed by model, or send us your model code and we check it first.
How each part is tested before you buy
Door seal. Fold the inner lip back all the way round. A split, a chunk missing near the drain holes, or mould that bleach no longer shifts means replace it. How to replace a washing machine door seal covers the job and door seal leaking: seven causes rules out the cheaper fixes first.
Drain pump. Filter out, hose clear and water still standing at the end. With the machine off, spin the impeller behind the filter: jammed, or free but silent on a drain cycle, means the pump. Drain pump replacement shows the swap.
Inlet valve. Taps open, hose filters clean, a hum at the start of the cycle and no water. Inlet valve test and replace covers the multimeter check.
Belt. Motor hums, drum does not turn, or the drum turns by hand with no resistance. Drive belt replacement covers front and top loaders.
Door lock. Door clicks shut but nothing lights, or the door will not release after the cycle. Door lock and interlock fix walks through it.
Bearings and suspension. A jet-engine rumble on spin that gets louder week by week is the bearings; the drum will rock up and down by hand. Banging and walking on spin with a balanced load is the suspension: suspension rod and spring kit and which suspension rod kit is listed for my washer.
Error codes
Check 12 of the checklist is often an error code on the panel. Brand lists: Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Haier and Hisense.
When to stop and call a licensed repairer
Stop when the machine fills but the motor is silent with the belt on, when the panel is dead with power at the socket and the door lock replaced, when the drum has dropped and scrapes the tub, or when anything smells of burning. Those are the motor, the control board or the spider and tub, and the board in particular is a repairer’s call. A call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts, and on a machine past ten years with a bearing or spider fault that quote is the moment to weigh repair against replacement.
Monthly: the five-minute version
- Pump filter out and rinsed, tray under it.
- Door seal lip wiped, drain holes clear, door left ajar between loads.
- Detergent drawer out and rinsed.
- Hot empty cycle with the drum-clean setting or a cup of white vinegar.
- Tap filters rinsed twice a year.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my washing machine leave water in the drum?
Pump filter, drain hose and standpipe first. If all three are clear and the water still stands at the end of the cycle, the drain pump has failed.
Why does my washing machine smell?
Mould in the door seal folds and a detergent drawer full of jelly. Wipe the seal, run a hot empty cycle, and leave the door ajar. If the seal is black inside the fold, replace it.
Why is my washing machine so loud on spin?
A rumble that gets worse each week is the drum bearings. Banging with the drum hitting the cabinet is the suspension. An unbalanced load does both, so run an empty spin first.
Why won’t my washing machine start?
Power at the socket, then the door latch. If the door clicks but nothing lights, the door lock is the usual part.
Why is my washing machine leaking from the front?
Almost always the door seal: a split in the lip, a blocked drain hole, or a seal that has slipped off the tub rim. Leaks underneath are the filter cap, a hose clamp or the pump.
Is it worth repairing an old washing machine?
For a seal, pump, valve, belt or door lock, usually yes: the part is a fraction of a new machine. Bearings on a sealed-tub machine past ten years are where the sums change.
Get the right part first time
Search your model number on the site, or send it through the contact page and we match it first. In-stock parts are dispatched from Sydney the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time. Oz Appliance Spares, Sydney’s Northern Beaches, Australian-owned since 2009.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
