Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Run a dryer checklist in this order: the lint filter and its housing, the vent or condenser path, the load, the door and its switch, then a short cycle while you listen for the drum, the fan and the heat. A blocked filter or vent explains most slow drying and most overheating. The parts that follow are the drum belt, the idler pulley and rear drum bearing, the lint filter itself, the heating element, the thermostat or thermal fuse and the run capacitor, each matched by the model number on your sticker.
Haier Vented Dryer Drive Belt H0180300006C HDV40A1 HDV50E1 HDV60A1 HDV60E1 HDV70E1In stock · Sydney warehouseView part- H0180300006C Fisher Paykel Dryer Drive Belt DE7060P1 DE7060P2 DE8060P2 DE8060P3In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Fisher Paykel Heat Pump Dryer Belt DH9060HLG1 DH9060P1 DH9060P2 DH9060PG2In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Dryer Wheel Assy K2174541 HDFS80HS HDF8I10HB HDFS90HAB HDFS10HPB HDFY80HIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- LG Dryer Drum Support Roller 4581EL2002A RV1329A1,RV1329A4,RV1329A7 3581In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Genuine Stirling Tempo Clothes Dryer Heating Element GYJ45-68 GYJ40-88 0232In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All dryer parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Last updated October 2026
Before you start: the sticker and the three dryer types
The model sticker is inside the door rim or on the back panel. Write the full code down now, because every part on this page is matched by it. Then know which type you own: a vented dryer blows damp air out through a duct or a vent on the front; a condenser dryer collects water in a tank or pumps it away; a heat pump dryer does the same with a sealed refrigerant loop and runs cooler and slower. The free checks are the same for all three. The parts differ, which is why the table below names the models. If the sticker is gone, how to identify an old dryer without a model sticker shows the other places the code hides.
The 14-point dryer checklist
Unplug the dryer before you take off a panel or touch the belt. Checks 1 to 7 cost nothing.
| # | Check | How | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lint filter | Pull it out; hold it to the light; water should run through the mesh, not sit on it | A clogged or torn filter doubles drying time and overheats the dryer | Wash it; replace if torn (table below) |
| 2 | Filter housing | Torch down the slot; vacuum the fluff the filter missed | Lint behind the filter chokes the airflow | Vacuum |
| 3 | Vent or condenser path | Vented: duct clear, flap opens, vent cap outside not blocked. Condenser: pull the condenser, rinse it; empty the tank | Blocked air path: damp clothes, a hot cabinet, and the cut-out tripping | Clear, rinse, refit |
| 4 | Load | Half to three-quarters full, spun well in the washer first | An overfull or sodden load never dries in one cycle | Reload |
| 5 | Door and switch | Door clicks shut; light goes off; drum starts | Door light stays on or no start: the door switch | Door switch by model |
| 6 | Program and sensor | Sensor dry needs a damp load to read; timed dry for small loads | Sensor dry stops early on a near-dry or tiny load | Use timed dry; clean the sensor bars |
| 7 | Power | Panel lights; another appliance in the socket | No lights and no hum: the socket, not the dryer | Another socket, then an electrician |
| 8 | Drum turns | Start a cycle; motor hums but drum still | Belt snapped or off the pulley, or a seized bearing | Belt and pulley (table below) |
| 9 | Hum, no drum, no fan | Motor hums, nothing moves, then it stops | Run capacitor has failed | Capacitor (table below) |
| 10 | Squeal or thump | Noise rises with drum speed; louder when loaded | Idler pulley, rear drum bearing or drum support wheels worn | Pulley, bearing or wheels (table below) |
| 11 | Turns but no heat | Air out of the vent stays cold after five minutes | Element open, or a thermal fuse or thermostat has cut it | Element, fuse, thermostat (table below) |
| 12 | Heats, then stops early | Cabinet very hot; dryer cuts out mid-cycle | Airflow blocked (checks 1 to 3) or the high-limit thermostat | Clear airflow first |
| 13 | Burning smell | Hot-dust smell at start, or scorched lint | Lint on the element or round the drum | Unplug; clear lint; element check |
| 14 | Water underneath | Condenser or heat pump dryer leaves a puddle | Tank full, pump filter blocked, or the drain pump | Empty; clean; pump by model |
Where the free checks end and the parts begin
Checks 8 to 14 point at a part. On the vented and condenser dryers sold in Australia the parts that fail are, in rough order, the drum belt, the idler pulley and the rear drum bearing that squeal before the belt goes, the lint filter, the run capacitor, the heating element and its thermal fuse. On heat pump dryers the belt and the drum wheels lead, and the sealed refrigerant loop is a repairer’s job. The symptom pages go deeper: dryer not heating, dryer hums but won’t spin, replaced the belt and it still squeals, dryer takes too long and dryer won’t start. The winter dryer service check is the shorter five-part version of this page for the start of the cold months.
Match the part to your model sticker
Each row names the checklist item, the part, and the models on the sticker that the listing covers. Match the full code against the listing title before you order; belts in particular come in several lengths and rib counts that look alike.
| Check | Part | Models on your sticker | Part listed for it |
|---|---|---|---|
 8 | Drum belt, vented | Haier HDV40A1, HDV50E1, HDV60A1, HDV60E1, HDV70E1 | Haier vented dryer drive belt |
 8 | Drum belt, vented | Fisher & Paykel DE7060P1, DE7060P2, DE8060P2, DE8060P3 | Fisher & Paykel dryer drive belt |
 8 | Drum belt, vented | Fisher & Paykel DE4060M1, DE4560M1, DE4560M2, DE5060G1, DE5060M1 | Fisher & Paykel dryer drive belt, smaller models |
 8 | Drum belt, heat pump | Fisher & Paykel DH9060HLG1, DH9060P1, DH9060P2, DH9060PG2 | Fisher & Paykel heat pump dryer belt |
 8 | Drum belt, heat pump | Haier HDHP80AW1, HDHP80E1, HDHP90AN1, HDHP90ANB1 | Haier heat pump dryer belt |
 8, 10 | Belt, pulley and bearing kit | Simpson 39S500M, 39S600M, 39P400M and more on the listing | Simpson dryer belt, idler pulley and rear bearing kit |
 8, 10 | Belt, pulley and bearing kit | Westinghouse LD505EB, LD605EB; Electrolux EDV505, EDV5552 and more | Westinghouse and Electrolux dryer belt, pulley and bearing kit |
 10 | Idler pulley | Simpson (check the listing) | Simpson dryer idler pulley |
 10 | Rear drum bearing | Fisher & Paykel and Haier (check the listing) | Fisher & Paykel and Haier dryer rear drum bearing |
 10 | Drum wheel | Hisense HDFS80HS, HDF8I10HB, HDFS90HAB, HDFS10HPB, HDFY80H | Hisense dryer drum wheel |
 10 | Drum support roller | LG RV1329A1, RV1329A4, RV1329A7 | LG dryer drum support roller |
 10 | Drum roller | Samsung DV70H4400CW, DV80F5E5HGW, DV10R8540GV | Samsung dryer roller |
 1 | Lint filter | Simpson (check the listing) | Simpson dryer foam lint filter |
 1 | Lint filter | Stirling and Tempo GYJ45-68, GYJ40-88 | Stirling dryer lint and exhaust filter |
 1 | Lint filter | Omega and Euromaid OCD40WA, DM4KG, ED45KG | Omega and Euromaid dryer filter |
 11 | Heating element | Stirling and Tempo GYJ45-68, GYJ40-88 | Stirling dryer heating element |
 11 | Heating element | Omega and Euromaid OCD40WA, DM4KG, ED45KG, OCD6W | Omega and Euromaid dryer heating element |
 11 | Condenser dryer heater | Fisher & Paykel DC8060P3, DE8060P1, DE8060P2 | Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer heater |
 11, 12 | High-limit thermostat | Haier (check the listing) | Haier dryer high-limit thermostat |
 9, 11 | Run capacitor and thermal fuse | Haier (check the listing) | Haier dryer capacitor and thermostat fuse |
 9, 11 | Run capacitor and thermal fuse | Fisher & Paykel (check the listing) | Fisher & Paykel dryer capacitor and thermostat fuse |
 5 | Door seal | Fisher & Paykel DE4060M1, DE6060P1; Haier HDV70E1 and more | Fisher & Paykel and Haier dryer door seal |
Not in the table? Read which dryer belt is listed for my model and which lint filter is listed for my model, browse all dryer parts, or send us your model code and we check it first.
How each part is tested before you buy
Belt. Unplug, open the drum by hand: a drum that spins freely with no resistance has a snapped or slipped belt. How to replace a clothes dryer drum belt covers vented, condenser and heat pump.
Pulley and bearing. Spin the drum by hand with the belt off and listen for a dry squeak or a rumble; rock the drum up and down for play at the back. Idler pulley, belt and rear bearing replacement is the full job.
Capacitor. A hum with nothing turning, and a drum that starts if you give it a push, is the run capacitor. Discharge it before you touch the terminals. The 8 uF dryer run capacitor covers which brands share it.
Element, fuse and thermostat. Drum turns, no heat. A multimeter across the element should read a low resistance; open circuit means it has failed. Then the thermal fuse in series with it: open means it has blown, and it blows because airflow was blocked, so fix checks 1 to 3 or it will blow again. Dryer thermal fuse keeps blowing explains why.
Venting. Damp laundry walls, black cornices and a dryer that never finishes are an airflow story, not a part: where your dryer’s air goes.
Error codes
Brand code lists: Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Haier, Hisense, Samsung, LG and Stirling.
When to stop and call a licensed repairer
Stop when the motor is silent with power proven and the capacitor replaced, when a heat pump dryer turns and runs but never warms, when the control panel is dead, or when anything has scorched. Those are the motor, the sealed refrigerant loop or the control board, and refrigerant work needs a licensed person in Australia. A call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts; is it worth repairing a dryer puts that against the age of the machine.
Every load: the one-minute version
- Lint filter cleaned before every load, washed monthly.
- Condenser rinsed and tank emptied monthly.
- Vent cap outside checked each season.
- Door seal wiped; door left open to air.
- A quick listen on the first spin for a new squeak.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my dryer take so long to dry?
Blocked airflow nearly every time: the lint filter, the housing behind it, the vent duct or a dirty condenser. Clear all of those before you suspect the element.
Why does my dryer turn but not heat?
The element has failed or a thermal fuse has blown. The fuse blows because the dryer overheated, which comes back to airflow, so fix the filter and vent first or the new fuse goes the same way.
Why does my dryer hum but not spin?
If the drum starts when you give it a push, the run capacitor has failed. If it never starts and the drum spins freely by hand, the belt is off or snapped.
Why does my dryer squeal?
A dry idler pulley or a worn rear drum bearing, and on some models the drum support wheels. Replacing the belt alone rarely fixes it; replace the pulley and bearing with it.
Can I use a torn lint filter for now?
No. Lint passes the tear, coats the element and the fan, and the dryer overheats. Filters are listed by model and are one of the lowest-cost parts on the machine.
Is it worth repairing an old dryer?
For a belt, pulley, bearing, filter, capacitor or element, usually yes. A motor or a heat pump refrigerant fault on a machine past ten years is where the sums change.
Get the right part first time
Search your model number on the site, or send it through the contact page and we match it first. In-stock parts are dispatched from Sydney the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time. Oz Appliance Spares, Sydney’s Northern Beaches, Australian-owned since 2009.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
