
Quick answer: Work through an oven checklist in this order: the clock and child lock, power at the cooktop and the isolator, the function and temperature you set, the door and its seal, the fan, then each element in turn by eye and by heat. The free checks catch clock lock-outs after a power cut, wrong modes and door faults. The parts that follow are the fan-forced element, the fan motor, the grill or bake element and the selector or rocker switch, each matched by the model number on your sticker.
FAN FORCED OVEN ELEMENT Electrolux Westinghouse Chef Simpson p/n 2035050 0902In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
CHEF SIMPSON WESTINGHOUSE FAN FORCED OVEN ELEMENT p/n 0122004574 0902In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fisher & Paykel Fan Forced Oven Element P/N FP447752 542959P 0322In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
SMEG OVEN FAN ELEMENT 2000W p/n 806890882 Sa308X, SA306X, SA650, SA708X, 0904In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
SMEG OMEGA OVEN FAN FORCED ELEMENT WITH STUDS 2400W P/N 806890217,0327In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
FAN FORCED OVEN ELEMENT SMEG TECHNIKA BLANCO OMEGA 2200w p/n FE-06,203174 0310In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Euromaid Linea 481686 Oven Fan Forced Element with Mount Bolts 0327In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
FAN FORCED OVEN FAN MOTOR Electrolux Westinghouse Chef Simpson 0214002118 0306In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
OVEN SWITCH ROCKER WHITE p/n0534001687 Westinghouse Simpson Electrolux Chef 0305In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All oven and cooktop parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Last updated October 2026
Before you start: the sticker and the clock
The model sticker on a built-in oven is on the frame behind the door, down one side or on the lip under the control panel; on a freestanding stove it is often inside the storage drawer. Write the full model number down now. How to find your Westinghouse oven model number shows the usual spots, and most brands follow suit.
Then set the clock. After a power cut, a lot of electric ovens will not heat until the clock is set, and a flashing display is the only clue. That single step closes more oven calls than any part.
The 12-point oven checklist
Switch the oven off at its isolator before you take out a rear panel or touch an element. Checks 1 to 5 cost nothing.
| # | Check | How | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Clock and lock | Set the clock; clear a flashing display; hold the key symbol to clear a child lock | Many ovens refuse to heat with the clock unset or the lock on | Try again |
| 2 | Power | Cooktop works? Isolator switch on? Safety switch at the board? | Oven and cooktop are often on separate circuits | Reset; electrician if it trips again |
| 3 | Function and temperature | Fan-forced, bake or grill chosen; auto timer not set for later | A timer set for later holds the oven off until then | Cancel the program |
| 4 | Light and fan | Light on; fan audible on a fan-forced setting | Light and fan but no heat: an element or the thermostat | Checks 6 to 8 |
| 5 | Door and seal | Paper test round the door; door sits square; seal not perished | Heat escaping gives slow, uneven cooking and a hot kitchen | Seal or hinges by model |
| 6 | Fan-forced element | Rear panel out; look for a blister, bulge or break in the ring | Fan runs, oven stays cool: the ring element behind the fan | Fan-forced element (table below) |
| 7 | Bake element | Bottom element glows evenly on bake after a few minutes | Dark patches or no glow: the bake element | Bake element by model |
| 8 | Grill element | Top element glows red along its length on grill | No glow or a break in the glow: the grill element | Grill element by model |
| 9 | Temperature accuracy | Oven thermometer on the middle shelf at 180°C for 20 minutes | Within 10–15°C is normal; well out means thermostat or sensor | Thermostat by model |
| 10 | Noise | Squeal, rumble or a blade touching on fan-forced | Dry fan motor bearing or a bent blade | Fan motor (table below) |
| 11 | Tripping the safety switch | Board trips when the oven heats | An element breaking down to earth, or a wiring fault | Element; licensed electrician |
| 12 | Error code | Note the letter and number on the display | The code names the fault circuit | Brand code guide (below) |
Where the free checks end and the parts begin
Checks 6 to 12 point at a part. Elements are the wear part of an electric oven: the fan-forced ring behind the rear panel does most of the work in most Australian kitchens and is the one that goes first, usually with a visible blister or a burnt break, and often by tripping the safety switch as it fails. The fan motor is next, announced by a squeal that gets louder as the oven warms. Selector and rocker switches fail on older Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson ovens and show as one function dead with the rest working. Oven not heating but the light works ranks the causes, and what it costs to fix the element versus replace the oven puts numbers on the decision.
Match the part to your model sticker
Elements are matched by brand family, wattage and the mounting bracket, so match the full code on your sticker against the listing title and compare the bracket shape with the photo before you order.
| Check | Part | Models on your sticker | Part listed for it |
|---|---|---|---|
6 | Fan-forced element | Electrolux, Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson (check the listing) | Electrolux, Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element | Electrolux, Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson, later models (check the listing) | Electrolux and Westinghouse fan-forced oven element, later type |
6 | Fan-forced element | Chef, Simpson and Westinghouse (check the listing) | Chef, Simpson and Westinghouse fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element | Chef, Westinghouse and Simpson late models | Chef, Westinghouse and Simpson oven element, late model |
6 | Fan-forced element | Simpson (check the listing) | Simpson fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element | Fisher & Paykel wall ovens (check the listing) | Fisher & Paykel fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element | Smeg SA308X, SA306X, SA650, SA708X | Smeg oven fan element |
6 | Fan-forced element, stud mount | Smeg and Omega (check the listing) | Smeg and Omega fan-forced oven element with studs |
6 | Fan-forced element | Smeg, Technika, Blanco and Omega (check the listing) | Smeg, Technika, Blanco and Omega fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element, two coil | Omega (check the listing) | Omega fan-forced oven element, two coil |
6 | Fan-forced element, bolt mount | Euromaid Linea (check the listing) | Euromaid Linea fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element, bolt mount | IAG and Baumatic (check the listing) | IAG and Baumatic fan-forced oven element |
6 | Fan-forced element | Linea L156SS, L186SS, L196FS | Linea fan-forced oven element |
10 | Fan motor | Electrolux, Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson (check the listing) | Electrolux, Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson oven fan motor |
10 | Fan motor | Smeg and Omega (check the listing) | Smeg and Omega oven fan motor |
10 | Fan motor | Westinghouse, Chef, Simpson, Smeg and St George (check the listing) | Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson oven fan motor |
3 | Rocker switch | Westinghouse, Simpson, Electrolux and Chef (check the listing) | Westinghouse and Simpson oven rocker switch |
3 | Control knobs | Technika and Bellissimo, pack of four | Technika oven and cooktop knob pack |
Not in the table? Browse all oven and cooktop parts, read which fan-forced element is listed for your Westinghouse, Chef, Simpson or Electrolux, or send us your model code and a photo of the old element and we check it first.
How each part is tested before you buy
Elements. Isolator off. A blister, bulge, burnt spot or an open break in the sheath means replace it; no need to test further. If it looks clean, a multimeter across the two terminals should show a low resistance in the tens of ohms; an open circuit means it has failed inside. A reading between either terminal and the metal body means it is leaking to earth and is what trips the safety switch. Fan-forced element replacement and how to replace an oven element cover the swap, which is three screws and two spade terminals on most ovens.
Fan motor. With the oven cold and off, spin the fan blade through the rear panel. A gritty, stiff or wobbly spin is a dry bearing. The squeal that appears as the oven heats is the same bearing expanding.
Switches and thermostat. One function dead, the rest fine: the selector or rocker switch for that function. All functions heating but the oven thermometer well out: the thermostat or sensor, which is model-specific, so send the model code. Smeg owners start at Smeg oven not heating.
Door. A door that will not sit square or closes with a gap has a hinge or a seal problem: oven door won’t close properly.
Error codes
Check 12 is the shortcut. Brand code lists: Westinghouse, Chef and Electrolux, Smeg, Bosch, Fisher & Paykel, Omega, Technika, Samsung and LG.
Door seals, hinges, glass and thermostats
Door seals, hinges, inner glass, thermostats and bake and grill elements are model-specific and not on our shelf. For a quote, send us your model code with a photo of the part.
When to stop and call a licensed repairer
Stop when the safety switch still trips with the suspect element disconnected, when there is a burning smell from the wiring rather than from food, when the control panel is dead with power proven at the cooktop, or when the oven is gas. Gas work needs a licensed gas fitter in Australia; electrical faults past the element need a licensed electrician; a licensed repairer handles the control board. A call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts, and on an oven past fifteen years that quote is the moment to weigh repair against replacement.
Before the Christmas cook: the five-minute version
- Set the clock and run the oven on fan-forced at 180°C for ten minutes.
- Look through the door: fan turning, ring element glowing evenly.
- Paper test round the door.
- Oven thermometer on the middle shelf: within 15°C of the dial.
- Switch to grill for three minutes and watch for an even red glow.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my oven not heating but the light works?
Clock unset after a power cut, the child lock, a timer program, or an element. If the fan runs and the light is on but it stays cold on fan-forced, the ring element behind the rear panel is the usual part.
How do I know which element has failed?
By function. Fan-forced cold but grill works: the ring element. Grill not glowing: the grill element. Bottom heat weak on bake: the bake element. Look for a blister or break on the suspect element, then confirm with a multimeter.
Why does my oven trip the power?
Usually an element breaking down to earth as it heats, which is why it trips a few minutes into cooking rather than at switch-on. Isolate, disconnect the suspect element and try again. If it still trips, call a licensed electrician.
How accurate should an oven be?
Within 10–15°C of the dial on an oven thermometer after 20 minutes is normal, and the temperature swings up and down round the set point as the thermostat cycles. Well outside that, or a hot spot on one side, points at the thermostat, the sensor or the fan.
Can I replace an oven element myself?
On most electric ovens, yes: isolator off, rear panel out, three screws and two push-on terminals. If the element is hard-wired, the oven is gas, or you are not confident with the isolator, use a licensed repairer.
Where is my oven model number?
On the frame behind the door, down one side of the door opening, under the control panel or inside the storage drawer of a freestanding stove. It is the full code with letters and numbers, not the brand name on the door.
Get the right part first time
Search your model number on the site, or send it through the contact page and we match it first. In-stock parts are dispatched from Sydney the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time. Oz Appliance Spares, Sydney’s Northern Beaches, Australian-owned since 2009.
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