Westinghouse, Simpson & Electrolux Washing Machine Error Codes — Australian Guide (2026)

Quick answer: Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux washing machines are built on the same Electrolux platform, so the same E-codes appear across all three brands: E10/E11 means the machine cannot fill, E20/E21 means it cannot drain, E40-family codes are door and interlock faults and E50-family codes are motor faults. The common fixes are $16.45 to $46.95 AUD parts — inlet valves, drain pumps and door lock switches — with same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.

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Last updated July 2026

Here is the single most useful thing to know about these three brands: Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux washing machines sold in Australia come off the same Electrolux platform. They share control logic, share most of their internals, and — the part that matters when your machine stops mid-cycle — share the same E-prefix error codes. E20 means the same thing on a Westinghouse WWF, a Simpson SWF and an Electrolux EWF. So does E11, E40 and E51. One code table serves the biggest washer install base in the country.

This guide covers the documented codes on the Australian Electrolux family: Electrolux EWF and EWW models, Westinghouse WWF front loaders and WWT top loaders, and Simpson SWF front loaders and SWT top loaders — the meaning, the most likely cause in an Australian laundry, and the part or check that clears each one. It sits alongside our LG, Samsung, Haier and Hisense code guides.

Why do Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux share the same error codes?

Electrolux owns all three brands, and in Australia the machines are engineered as one family. The badge and fascia change; the control board’s fault logic does not. The codes follow a tidy pattern — the first digit after the E points at the system:

• E10s — water in. The machine expected water and did not get it, or got it too slowly.
• E20s — water out. The machine tried to drain and the water level did not drop in time.
• E30s — water level sensing. The pressure sensor has reported an impossible water level, including an overfill.
• E40s — the door. Open, not latched, or the interlock cannot confirm it is locked; the machine will not start or spin until this is resolved.
• E50s — the motor. The drum motor or its control circuit failed a check.
• E60s — heating. The water did not heat as expected, heated too much, or the temperature sensor is out of range.
• EF / EH — machine-level checks. Overfoaming or a suspected leak (EF0), and mains supply problems (EH family).
• E90s — configuration and communication. The boards cannot talk to each other properly.

Two things before you start. A code is a failed check, not a verdict — E10 is a turned-off tap far more often than a dead valve, and E20 is a coin in the pump filter far more often than a dead pump. Do the free checks first. And identify your machine from the model sticker — the code table is shared, but the parts are model-specific.

Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux error codes — quick-reference table

Only widely documented codes for the Australian Electrolux washer family are listed here. Some displays drop the last digit or letter (E20 may show as C2 on certain top loaders, and EF0 sometimes reads as EFO). If your display shows a code that is not in this table, note it with your model number and run both through the Part Finder.

Code	What it means	Most likely cause	The fix / part
E10	Water inlet fault — no water detected arriving	Tap turned off, kinked inlet hose, blocked inlet filter screen, or a failed inlet valve	Check tap, hose and filter screens first; then replace the inlet valve — from $16.45 AUD for Simpson Esprit/EZIset/Ezisensor
E11	Fill timeout during wash — water arriving too slowly	Low water pressure, half-open tap, clogged filter screen, tired inlet valve	Same checks as E10; front loaders with flow sensing take the Electrolux 2-way flow-meter valve, $33.95 AUD — match your EWF model
E20	Drain fault — water level did not drop in time	Blocked pump filter (coins, bra wires, lint), kinked drain hose, or a failed drain pump	Clear the filter and hose first — our washing machine not draining guide covers it step by step; then replace the pump — Electrolux/AEG drain pump, $34.50 AUD
E21	Drain timeout — draining, but too slowly	Partial blockage in the pump chamber or drain hose, drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe	Same drill as E20; top loaders take the Simpson SWT drain pump, $41.85 AUD or Westinghouse WWT drain pump, $40.95 AUD
E31	Pressure sensor fault — implausible water-level signal	Blocked or split pressure hose, failed pressure sensor	Check the small clear hose to the sensor for kinks and gunk; if clear, the sensor has failed — run your model through the Part Finder
E35	Overfill — water level too high, anti-flood triggered	Inlet valve not closing fully (letting water seep in), or a pressure-sensing fault	Turn the taps off and watch: if the drum keeps filling with the machine off, the valve is passing — replace it (see E10/E11 parts)
E40	Door fault — general door/interlock check failed	Door not shut properly, item caught in the door, worn latch, failed interlock	Reshut the door firmly; if it recurs, replace the door lock switch — Electrolux EWF models, $46.95 AUD
E41	Door open or not latched	Door ajar, latch worn, hinge sag on older machines	Check the latch engages with a firm click; Westinghouse WWF door lock switch, $46.95 AUD if the latch clicks but the code stays
E42	Door interlock fault — door shut but lock cannot confirm	Failed interlock switch — the electrical half of the lock	Replace the door lock switch for your model, e.g. Electrolux EWW washer-dryers, $46.95 AUD; top loaders use a lid switch — Simpson/Westinghouse micro lid switch, $12.95 AUD
E51	Motor power circuit fault (triac short)	Failed component on the control board, occasionally a shorted motor	Power cycle once; if it returns, this is a board-level fault — qualified appliance technician territory
E52	No signal from the motor speed sensor (tacho)	Tacho magnet worked loose, worn motor brushes, wiring fault	Board re-check after power cycle; persistent E52 usually means motor service — book a technician, or ask us via the Part Finder
E61	Heating too slow — water did not reach temperature in time	Scaled or failing heating element	Replace the element — Electrolux heater element, $32.95 AUD suits EWF1090; a second version, $32.95 AUD suits EWF10831
E62	Water overheating during wash	Failed temperature sensor reading low, element relay stuck	Mains-voltage diagnosis — have a competent person or technician test the sensor and element circuit
E66	Heater relay fault on the control board	Board relay failed a self-check	Power cycle to rule out a glitch; a persistent E66 is a control board repair — technician job
E71	Temperature sensor (NTC) out of range	Failed wash temperature sensor or its wiring	Sensor swap on the element head — match your model via the Part Finder
EF0 / EFO	Overfoam or leak detected — machine pumps out and stops	Too much detergent (very common), non-front-loader detergent, or water in the base pan	Run a rinse cycle empty, halve your detergent dose; if it recurs dry, check hoses and the door seal for weeping leaks
EH1 / EH2 / EH3	Mains supply out of range (frequency or voltage)	Storm activity, generator or off-peak supply issues, house wiring problems	Nothing is wrong with the washer — power cycle after the supply settles; recurring EH codes with normal supply warrant an electrician
E90-series	Configuration or communication fault between boards	Loose harness between control and display boards, wrong or failed board	Power cycle once; persistent E90-series codes need a technician — do not keep re-running cycles

Which codes clear with a power cycle — and which never will?

The free test first, always: switch the machine off, unplug it at the wall, wait 60 seconds, plug back in and restart the programme.

• Usually clear for good: EH-family supply codes (once the mains settles), EF0 after a foam overload (once the excess detergent rinses through), and one-off E40s where the door simply had a sock in it.
• Clear, then return within one cycle: real part faults. E10/E11 comes back the moment the machine calls for water, E20/E21 the moment it tries to drain, E40-family the moment you press start. The returning code is the machine confirming the diagnosis for free.
• Return instantly, every time: hard electrical faults — E51, E66, E90-series. Stop re-running cycles; repeated restarts against a shorted triac or relay can cook a board a technician might otherwise save.

One habit worth building: drain and unload the machine before experimenting. A front loader holding water keeps the door locked — that is E40 logic doing its job, not a second fault.

What about Simpson EZIset and older top loaders with no display?

Many of Australia’s hardest-working washers are Simpson EZIset, Esprit and Ezisensor top loaders with no digital display, so they cannot show an E-code at all. They tell you what is wrong through behaviour instead, and the faults map to the same systems:

• Fills slowly or not at all = the E10 family. The usual fix is the inlet valve, $16.45 AUD, or the EZIset cold dual inlet valve, $15.95 AUD.
• Will not drain or spin = the E20 family. Check the drain hose, then the pump.
• Stops when the lid is open, or will not spin with it shut = the E40 family, enforced by a Simpson micro lid switch, $12.95 AUD and, on many models, a small lid magnet, $12.15 AUD — a lost magnet mimics a “lid open” fault perfectly.
• Motor hums but the drum will not turn = the E50 family’s mechanical cousins: a stretched drive belt, from $14.99 AUD or a failed 12uF motor capacitor, $9.78 AUD.

Newer Simpson SWT and Westinghouse WWT top loaders do have displays and use the shared E-code family in the table above.

Parts in stock for all three brands — same-day dispatch

Everything below is in stock in our Sydney warehouse and dispatched same day when you order before cut-off. The platform is shared but parts are model-specific — match your model sticker against the models listed before ordering.

Part	Fixes	Suits	Price	Buy
Simpson inlet valve	E10 / no fill	Esprit, EZIset, Ezisensor	$16.45 AUD	Buy now
Simpson/Westinghouse hot inlet valve 10mm	E10 / no hot fill	Match your model	$18.39 AUD	Buy now
Electrolux 2-way flow-meter inlet valve	E10 / E11 / E35	EWF9024CDWA, EWF9042R7WB	$33.95 AUD	Buy now
Westinghouse dual inlet valve	E10 / E35	WWF1274, WWF1284	$34.85 AUD	Buy now
Electrolux/AEG drain pump	E20 / E21	Match your EWF model	$34.50 AUD	Buy now
Westinghouse top loader drain pump	E20 / no drain	WWT6041, WWT8011, WWT854	$40.95 AUD	Buy now
Simpson top loader drain pump	E20 / no drain	SWT754, SWT954, SWT1076	$41.85 AUD	Buy now
Simpson/Westinghouse lid switch	Lid-open faults	Match your top loader model	$12.95 AUD	Buy now
Electrolux door lock switch	E40 / E41 / E42	EWF1041ZDWA, EWF1041R9WB, EWF1042BDWA	$46.95 AUD	Buy now
Westinghouse door lock switch	E40 / E41 / E42	WWF7524N3WA, WWF1274, WWF1284	$46.95 AUD	Buy now
Electrolux heater element	E61	EWF1090 (second version suits EWF10831)	$32.95 AUD	Buy now
Drum drive belt 5PJE1196	Drum not turning	EWW14013, WWF1274, WWF1284	$19.93 AUD	Buy now

Can’t see your model? Browse the full washing machine parts store, or start from the brand parts hub — we carry parts for 25+ brands, including the ones nobody else bothers with.

Is it safe to fix these faults yourself?

The golden rule on every job: switch off and unplug the machine at the wall before you open anything. Then split the work into two piles.

Comfortably DIY: cleaning the drain pump filter, swapping inlet hoses, clearing inlet filter screens, replacing a lid magnet — no wiring involved. Keep towels handy, because a machine with an E20 is a machine full of water; drain it via the emergency drain hose or pump filter first.

Competent-person territory: inlet valves, drain pumps, door lock switches, lid switches, heating elements and drive belts. All of these connect to mains wiring, so they are jobs for someone comfortable disconnecting and reconnecting mains-voltage components — photograph every connector before unclipping it. Anything board-level (E51, E66, E90-series) or motor-internal (persistent E52) belongs with a qualified appliance technician. Plenty of tradies will happily fit a part you have already bought, which keeps the total cost well under a full service call.

Frequently asked questions

Are Westinghouse, Simpson and Electrolux error codes the same?

Yes. All three brands are built on the shared Electrolux platform in Australia, so the E-code system is common across them: E10-series for filling, E20-series for draining, E40-series for the door, E50-series for the motor, E60-series for heating. An E20 on a Westinghouse WWF means exactly what it means on a Simpson SWF or an Electrolux EWF. The parts, however, are model-specific — always match your model number.

Where do I find the model number on my machine?

Check the model sticker: on front loaders it is inside the door frame, around the door opening; on top loaders it is under the lid or on the back panel. You are looking for a code like WWF8024M5WA, SWT9043A or EWF1041ZDWA. Match that code against the parts tables above before ordering.

My machine shows E20 every wash even after I cleaned the filter. What now?

A repeating E20 with a clean filter and an unkinked hose usually means the drain pump itself has failed. Check the impeller spins freely; if it is stiff, jammed or the pump is silent when it should be running, replace the pump. Our not-draining guide has the full sequence.

The door won’t open after an error code. Is it broken?

Usually not. Front loaders keep the door locked while there is water in the drum — that is deliberate. Drain the machine (emergency drain hose or pump filter, towels down), power off at the wall and wait a couple of minutes for the interlock to release. If the drum is empty and the door still will not release after a power cycle, the door lock switch has likely failed — the same $46.95 AUD part that fixes E40-family codes.

Which codes can I safely ignore after a power cycle?

None permanently — but EH-family supply codes after a storm and a one-off EF0 after a heavy-handed detergent dose are the two that commonly never return. Any code that comes back on the next cycle is a real fault, and never keep re-running cycles against E51, E66 or an E90-series code: repetition can do more damage.

How much does it cost to fix the common codes?

Cheaply, in most cases. E10-family fixes run $15.95 to $34.85 AUD for an inlet valve, E20-family fixes are $34.50 to $41.85 for a drain pump, E40-family door lock switches are $46.95 (or $12.95 for a top-loader lid switch), and an E61 heater element is $32.95. Every part above ships same day from our Sydney warehouse when you order before cut-off.

My old Simpson EZIset has no display. How do I know which fault I have?

Read the behaviour instead: no fill points at the inlet valve, no drain or spin at the pump or drain hose, stopping with the lid open at the lid switch or lid magnet, and a humming motor that will not turn the drum at the belt or capacitor. The EZIset section above maps each behaviour to its E-code equivalent and the part that fixes it.

One platform, one table, one fix

Whether the badge says Westinghouse, Simpson or Electrolux, the machine underneath speaks the same language — and now you do too. Read the code, do the free checks, pull your model number off the model sticker, and match the part above. Everything listed is in stock in our Sydney warehouse with same-day dispatch before cut-off.

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