Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Samsung dishwasher error codes are short display codes: LC or LE means the leak sensor has detected moisture (often a false alarm from a splash), 4C is a water-supply fault, 5C is a drain fault, HC is the heater running too hot and OC means too much water in the tub. The common part fixes — drain pump or heating element — run $29.95 to $34.95 AUD with same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
Decode any appliance error code — instant lookup
Last updated July 2026
A Samsung dishwasher that stops mid-cycle and flashes a code is not broken so much as talking to you. Every code maps to a specific self-check the machine failed — water in, water out, temperature, sensors — and once you know the map, most faults come down to a blocked hose, a splash on a sensor, or a single replaceable part.
This guide covers the documented error codes on Samsung dishwashers sold in Australia, including the popular DW60M and DW60H series and the WaterWall models. You will find newer models show codes ending in C (4C, 5C, LC) while older ones show the same faults ending in E (4E, 5E, LE) — they mean the same thing. This page completes our dishwasher error-code cluster alongside the Bosch, Westinghouse and Hisense guides.
What do Samsung dishwasher error codes mean?
Samsung codes are stage-of-cycle checks. The control board expects water to arrive within a set time (4C if it does not), expects it to leave within a set time (5C), expects the heater to raise the temperature on a set curve (HC if it overshoots), and continuously polls a moisture sensor in the drip pan under the tub (LC the moment it gets wet). The number or letter tells you the system; the C or E just marks it as a check that failed.
Two useful ground rules before you touch anything:
- Do the free checks before buying parts. 4C is a failed inlet valve on some machines and a half-closed tap on plenty of others. 5C is a dead drain pump sometimes, and a kinked drain hose more often.
- LC is a special case. It is the one Samsung code that regularly triggers without anything actually being broken — a splash or condensation on the leak sensor is enough. It gets its own section below, because replacing parts to chase a false LC is the most common wasted spend on these machines.
The LC / LE leak code — why it is often a false alarm
LC (LE on older models) means the moisture sensor in the drip pan under the tub has detected water. Unlike most codes, LC does not always mean a part has failed — and it famously keeps the machine locked out, sometimes even restarting the drain pump on its own, until the sensor dries.
Why it false-alarms. The sensor sits low in the base pan and reacts to any moisture: a splash from overfilling detergent, suds forcing past the door during a foam-heavy wash, condensation after the machine was moved or tilted, even humidity after the kickboard was off. None of those are leaks, but the sensor cannot tell the difference.
What to do when LC appears:
- Isolate the machine at the power point — switch off and unplug. LC involves water and electricity in the same place, so no exceptions on this one.
- Turn off the water tap, then leave the machine off for several hours (overnight is better) so the base pan and sensor can dry out. Pulling the kickboard off helps air circulate.
- Restore power and run a short cycle empty. If LC stays away, it was moisture, not a leak — use the right detergent dose and move on.
- If LC returns quickly, water really is reaching the base. Common genuine sources are a perished hose connection, a leaking sump seal, or a door that is letting suds escape. Water pooling around mains wiring is exactly the situation for a qualified appliance technician — do not run the machine again until the source is found.
The distinction matters because a false LC costs you nothing but drying time, while a real leak left running can take out the electronics under the tub.
Samsung dishwasher error codes — quick-reference table
Only widely documented codes for Samsung dishwashers sold in Australia are listed here. Newer models show the C form, older models the E form — treat 4C/4E, 5C/5E, LC/LE, HC/HE, tC/tE and bC/bE as pairs.
| Code | What it means | Most likely cause | The fix / part |
|---|---|---|---|
| LC / LE | Leak sensor detected moisture in the base pan | Splash, suds or condensation on the sensor (often a false alarm); genuine hose or seal leak if it keeps returning | Isolate power, dry out overnight, retest; a returning LC means a real leak — see the section above |
| 4C / 4E | Water-supply error — tub did not fill in time | Tap not fully open, kinked inlet hose, blocked inlet screen, failed inlet valve | Free checks first; for a failed valve, match your model in the dishwasher parts store or use the Part Finder |
 5C / 5E | Drain error — water did not pump out | Blocked filter, kinked drain hose, blocked sink spigot, failed drain pump | Clear the drain path; if the pump is silent or hums, fit the Samsung dishwasher drain pump — $34.95 AUD |
| OC / 0C | Over-level water error — too much water in the tub | Inlet valve letting water seep through, drain not keeping up | Turn off the tap and let it drain; a valve that will not close needs replacing — check the dishwasher parts store for your model |
 HC / HE | Heater error — water temperature too high | Failed heating element or heater control fault | Fit the Samsung heating element — $29.95 AUD (suits DW60H6050 series — match your model) |
| tC / tE | Temperature sensor error — thermistor reading out of range | Failed thermistor or its wiring, not the heater itself | Sensor-level fault — run your model through the Part Finder |
| bC / bE | Button error — a control button is stuck | Key held or jammed on the panel, moisture behind the fascia | Press each button in turn to free it and wipe the panel dry; a persistent bC points at the control panel |
| 3C | Pump operation error — wash pump failed to run properly | Debris jamming the wash pump, wash motor fault | Isolate power and clear the sump of glass or pips; if it recurs with a clear sump, have the wash motor checked |
| 7E | WaterWall reflector error (WaterWall models only) | Reflector jammed by an item, tape left on a new machine, drive fault | Check nothing blocks the reflector track at the tub base and remove any packing tape; retry |
| PC | Zone-wash error — half-load/zone function fault | Zone diverter not moving to position, drive or sensor fault | Reset first; if PC persists, book a qualified appliance technician — this one is not a DIY part swap |
| 9E | Low water level error | Water lost mid-cycle, overfoaming, machine not level, low fill | Check detergent dose and that the machine sits level; recurring 9E with a level machine suggests a fill or sensing fault — Part Finder |
How to reset a Samsung dishwasher error code
A reset clears codes thrown by one-off events — a splash on the leak sensor, a power flicker, a foam overload. It will not clear a genuinely failed part for more than one cycle, which is exactly what makes it useful: reset once, and what comes back is real.
- Switch off at the power point and unplug (or switch off the circuit for a hard-wired install). Leave it off for at least two minutes; for LC, leave it off long enough for the base to dry — several hours.
- Do the free checks for your code while the power is off: tap fully open, both hoses free of kinks, filter clean, sink spigot clear, detergent dose correct.
- Restore power and run a short empty cycle.
- If the code returns at the same point in the cycle, the component behind it has failed — use the table above to pick the part.
For drain codes, work through the whole path before condemning the pump: our dishwasher not draining guide covers filter, sump, hose and spigot in order.
Which Samsung error codes are most common in Australian homes?
LC is the one everybody searches. Not because Samsung dishwashers leak more than others, but because the sensor is sensitive enough to trip on a splash — and the machine stays locked out until it dries. Follow the dry-out procedure above before spending a dollar on parts.
5C (drain) is the most common genuine fault. Australian kitchens send rice, pips and broken glass into the drain path, and the pump impeller eventually pays for it. The good news: the Samsung drain pump is a stocked $34.95 AUD part, and clearing the filter fixes the majority of 5C events without any part at all.
4C (fill) is often free to fix. A tap nudged shut under the sink, a hose kinked when the machine was pushed back, a blocked inlet screen — check all three before assuming the valve has failed.
HC (heater) matters because of what it protects. The machine shuts down rather than let the water overheat. On DW60H6050 series machines the heating element is a $29.95 AUD stocked part, but anything heater-related deserves the full safety treatment: isolated at the power point, and handed to a qualified appliance technician if you are not confident testing heater circuits.
Samsung dishwasher parts available now
All parts below are in stock in our Sydney warehouse with same-day dispatch when you order before cut-off. Samsung parts are model-specific — check the models in the product title against your model sticker, or use the Part Finder.
| Part | Fixes code | Suits | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Samsung dishwasher drain pump | 5C / 5E | Compatible — match your model | $34.95 AUD | Buy now |
| Samsung dishwasher heating element | HC / HE | DW60H6050FSSA, DW60H6050FWSA | $29.95 AUD | Buy now |
 Samsung dishwasher door lock switch | Door won’t latch / won’t start | DW60M6055FG, DW60M6055FS | $66.95 AUD | Buy now |
 Samsung dishwasher EMI filter | Power/interference faults | Compatible — match your model | $24.85 AUD | Buy now |
If your model or the part you need is not listed, browse the full dishwasher parts store or drop your model number into the Part Finder — our dishwasher range is growing constantly.
A safety note before any repair: a dishwasher puts mains voltage and water side by side. Always isolate the machine at the power point — switch off and unplug, never trust the machine’s own buttons — and turn off the water tap before removing any panel. A drain pump swap is within reach of a competent person; leak codes (LC), heater circuits and anything on the control board are where a qualified appliance technician earns their fee. Plenty of tradies will fit a part you have already bought, which keeps the total cost well under a call-out plus parts markup.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my Samsung dishwasher keep showing LC when there is no leak?
The LC sensor sits in the base pan under the tub and trips on any moisture — a detergent splash, suds, or condensation, not just a real leak. Isolate the machine at the power point, let the base dry for several hours (overnight is better), then run an empty cycle. If LC stays away, it was a false alarm. If it returns quickly, water genuinely is reaching the base and needs to be traced before the machine runs again.
What is the difference between 4C and 4E on a Samsung dishwasher?
Nothing — they are the same water-supply fault. Newer Samsung models display codes ending in C, older models the same codes ending in E. The same is true for 5C/5E (drain), LC/LE (leak), HC/HE (heater), tC/tE (temperature sensor) and bC/bE (button).
How do I fix the 5C drain error?
Clean the filter in the tub base, check the drain hose for kinks, and confirm the sink spigot is not blocked. If water still sits in the tub and the pump hums or stays silent, the drain pump has failed — the Samsung drain pump is $34.95 AUD with same-day Sydney dispatch. Match your model before ordering.
What does HC mean and can I fix it myself?
HC means the water temperature ran too high, which usually points at the heating element or its control. On DW60H6050 series machines the heating element is a $29.95 AUD part. It is a mains-voltage component in a wet appliance, so isolate at the power point first — and if testing heater circuits is outside your comfort zone, have a qualified appliance technician fit it.
Can I reset a Samsung dishwasher error code?
Yes — switch off at the power point, unplug for at least two minutes, then run a short empty cycle. Transient faults (splashes, power flickers, foam) will not return. A code that comes back at the same point in the cycle means the component behind it has genuinely failed.
Where do I find the model number on my Samsung dishwasher?
Open the door and check the model sticker on the inner door edge or the side of the door. The model number looks like DW60M6055FS or DW60H6050FWSA. Match it to the model lists in our product titles, or enter it in the Part Finder and we will match the part for you.
My Samsung dishwasher shows a code that is not listed here. What should I do?
We list only the codes that are widely documented on Australian-market Samsung dishwashers — some model families have additional service codes beyond these. Note the exact code and your model number from the model sticker, then run it through the Part Finder or browse the dishwasher parts store.
Related guides
- Dishwasher not draining — every cause from filter to sink
- Bosch dishwasher error codes — complete Australian guide
- Westinghouse dishwasher error codes
- Hisense dishwasher error codes
- LG dishwasher OE error — the complete drain fix
Ready to fix it?
A Samsung error code is a diagnosis, not a death sentence. Dry out a false LC for free, clear the drain path before condemning a pump, and when a part really has failed, the fix is usually $25 to $35 AUD and in stock in our Sydney warehouse with same-day dispatch. Match your model sticker, order the part, and the machine is back on the dishes tomorrow.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
