Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Before buying a board, motor, spider kit or clutch, prove the fault in order: power and wiring, then cheap switches, sensors and belts, then the expensive part. A dead panel with a good supply points at the power board. A free drum with a humming motor points at the motor. Drum play with a rumble points at the spider and bearings. Match the model number on the sticker; parts are stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Last updated September 2026
The expensive part, the symptom and the check that rules it in
Someone has told you “it’s the board”, “the motor’s gone” or “the spider has cracked”. The part runs $120–400, and you want to be sure before you spend it. Each row gives the check that rules the part in, then the part.
| Expensive part | Symptoms that point to it | Rule it in with this check | The part |
|---|---|---|---|
 Front-loader motor controller | Stops mid-cycle or at spin, drum twitches, motor fault code, panel alive | Drum free by hand, motor windings read even, loom and plugs sound | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Motor Controller WH8060P3 WH8560P3 WH9060P3 |
 Haier front-loader motor controller | Washes, then won’t spin | Same checks, plus door lock engaging | Haier Washing Machine Motor Controller HWF12PXB1 |
 Power board | Completely dead: no lights, no beep | Socket works (kettle test), plug unscorched, safety switch not tripped | Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Power Board WH1060P1 WH1260P1 |
 Top loader motor controller | Stops mid-cycle, won’t spin, panel alive | Water fully drained, lid lock clicking, windings even | Haier 12KG Top Load Washing Machine Motor Controller – HWT12MW1, HWT12MW2 |
 Fridge inverter board | Lights on, compressor silent, both sections warming | Not mid-defrost (wait an hour), condenser fan turns freely, no scorched plugs | Haier F&P Fridge Inverter Board HBM450SA1 HFD647AS |
 Spider and bearing kit | Rumble rising with spin speed, black grease trail behind the drum | Lift the drum at the top of the opening: play with a knock | Samsung Washing Machine Spider & Bearing Kit — Spider + Seal & Bearings |
 Complete spider kit | Bangs or scrapes on spin, drum drops at the front | Drum sits low or off-centre with the door open | Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Spider Complete Kit WH7560P1, WH8560P1, WH8560 |
 Heat pump dryer motor | Drum won’t turn, motor hums or screeches | Drum turns freely by hand, belt intact and on the pulley | Fisher & Paykel Heat Pump Dryer Motor DH9060FS1 DH9060FSG1 |
 Top loader clutch | Agitates but won’t spin, or spins weakly and smells hot | Water drained, lid switch working, basket slips under load | LG Washing Machine Clutch Assembly WF-T6571, WF-T6572, WF-T750 |
 Drum overhaul kit | Rumble plus a worn door seal and a tired belt | Drum play and seal wear found together | Hisense HWFY7514 Washing Machine Drum Overhaul Kit (Bearings, Belt, Door Seal) |
The three-step rule
- Power and wiring first. The socket, the plug, the safety switch, the door lock, and every connector between board and motor. Burnt, loose or corroded pins mimic a dead board.
- Cheap parts second. Sensors, switches, belts and capacitors fail more cheaply and produce the same stop-start symptoms.
- The expensive part last. Electronics are hard to test in the field, so a board is proven by ruling everything else out.
The cheaper look-alikes, family by family
Motor controllers: door lock, loom and windings first
A failing controller washes gently, then stops or throws a motor fault when spin needs real torque. A restart sometimes finishes the load. A door lock fault usually stops the cycle starting, not at spin. Check the loom between motor and controller for chafing, and on machines that have one, the rotor position sensor and its plug. Then test the windings: the multimeter motor test guide shows how. Even readings with nothing to the chassis point away from the windings. The Fisher & Paykel stops mid-cycle guide and the Haier front loader won’t spin guide go deeper.
Power boards: prove the supply
A power board fault is a black panel. Plug a kettle into the washer’s socket, check the plug and cord for scorching, and check the safety switch at the switchboard. A door lock fault usually still lights the panel, so a lit panel means look elsewhere. The Fisher & Paykel completely dead guide covers the rest, and the Haier 12kg top loader guide covers the top loader controller pattern.
Fridge boards: defrost, fan and start parts
A fridge mid-defrost sits silent for a while, so wait an hour. With the fridge unplugged, check the condenser fan turns freely and the coil isn’t choked with dust. On a conventional compressor a start relay can fail with the same symptom; an inverter compressor is driven by the board itself, which is why the board is the suspect there. See the Beko inverter board guide for the Beko Fridge Inverter Board BBM335W BBM407PX BBM450W BBM450X BBM505X, and the Haier main controller guide for the Haier Fridge Main Controller HSBS555AS HSBS555AW. If a new board doesn’t start the compressor, stop: the sealed refrigerant circuit is licensed work only.
Spider kits: bearings alone or the full spider?
Worn bearings rumble louder as spin climbs and give the drum play. A cracked spider bangs or scrapes and lets the drum drop at the front. A black grease trail down the back of the tub means the seal has let water into the bearings. The catch: spider cracks usually only show once the tub is split, and bearings, seal and spider come out in the same strip-down, so repairers do them together. The spider or bearings guide has the five-minute test. Kits include the LG Washing Machine Spider & Bearing Kit — Spider Shaft + Lip Seal & Bearings, the Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Spider Shaft & Bearing Kit (WH7560J1, WH8060J1, WH8560J1, WH8560J3) and the Haier Washing Machine Spider & Bearing Kit (HWF75AW1, HWF75AW2).
Heat pump dryer motors: belt first
Unplug, open the door and turn the drum by hand. Loose, with a slack belt: belt. Stiff or grinding: bearings or rollers, and a motor won’t fix that. Free drum, belt on, motor humming or screeching: now the motor is the suspect. The heat pump dryer motor guide covers the proof, and the Haier badge has the Haier Heat Pump Dryer Motor HDHP90AN1 HDHP90ANB1. The refrigerant side is sealed, licensed work.
LG top loader clutch: drain and lid switch first
Water left in the bowl stops spin on its own, and a lid switch fault usually means no attempt to spin at all. Motor running, agitation fine, basket slipping or screeching under load: that’s the clutch. The LG top loader clutch guide walks through it.
Before you touch a board
Unplug and wait a few minutes: board capacitors can hold charge after the plug is out. Photograph every connector before you remove it. Look for water tracks, white crusting and burnt pins, because a leak that killed one board will kill the next. Never bridge a door lock or lid switch to test.
Worth fixing?
Look at the whole machine first. A rusted cabinet, a torn seal or rumbling bearings mean a second bill waits behind the first. As bands: motor controllers and fridge boards $140–180, power boards and the 12kg top loader controller $230–290, spider and bearing kits $125–200, the LG clutch and Hisense overhaul kit $150–170, and heat pump dryer motors $350–420. A call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts. The is it worth repairing guide has the 5-minute test, and the drum overhaul kit guide weighs up the full strip-down.
How to match your model
Every part here is matched to the model number on the sticker: inside the door rim or on the back panel of a front loader, under the lid of a top loader, inside the fresh-food compartment of a fridge, inside the door opening of a dryer. Copy the suffix. A WH8560P1 and a WH8560J1 are listed against different spider kits. Search the full model on the site or the model pages, or browse Fisher & Paykel parts and the washing machine parts store. Not sure? Send a photo of the sticker through the contact page and we’ll check before you order.
Repair businesses: order by the model on the job sheet, send sticker photos for anything unclear, and apply for a trade account.
DIY or repairer?
Once the fault is proven, boards and controllers are plug-in swaps for a careful owner. Spider kits and clutches are bigger: the tub or the machine comes apart, and a repairer’s labour is often worth paying. Stop at hard-wired 240V, anything in a sealed refrigerant circuit, and any board you haven’t proven. No part fixes a fault nobody has confirmed.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my washing machine control board is faulty?
Rule out everything around it first: the socket, plug, door lock, connectors and motor windings. A completely dead panel with a good supply points at the power board; stopping at spin with a free drum and even windings points at the motor controller.
How do I test a washing machine motor with a multimeter?
Unplug the machine, photograph and disconnect the motor plug, and set the meter to ohms. The windings should read close to each other, and nothing should read between a winding and the motor body. Our multimeter guide gives the steps for each motor type.
How much does a washing machine spider replacement cost?
Spider and bearing kits run roughly $125–200, and the job is a full strip-down. A repairer’s call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts and labour, so weigh the machine’s age and condition before you commit.
How do I know the LG washing machine clutch has gone?
The motor runs and agitation works, but the basket slips, screeches or smells hot at spin. Make sure the water has drained and the lid switch works first, because both stop spin on their own.
Will a new board definitely fix my appliance?
Nobody can promise that, because electronics are hard to test in the field. What you can do is rule out the supply, wiring, switches, sensors and motor first, so the board is the only suspect left before you buy it.
Read the model number off the sticker, search it on the site, or send it through the contact page and we’ll check the part before you order. Proven-fault parts are dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
