Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Testing a washing machine motor takes a multimeter (cheapest $20 from Bunnings) and 15 minutes. Set the meter to ohms (Ω). For a universal motor (older washers), test each winding pair — should read 1-5 Ω. For a BLDC / direct-drive motor (LG, Samsung, modern Bosch), test the three stator windings — should read similar to each other (within 10%). For the Hall sensor on the back of a direct-drive motor, set the meter to DC volts and look for 5V supply + 0-5V pulse on the signal pin while rotating the rotor by hand. Mismatched readings = winding fault. Steady-zero on the Hall sensor = sensor dead.
The part that fixes this
- HOOVER WASHING MACHINE MOTOR DRIVE BELT M22 SUIT 500.600, 700 0802
- HOOVER PREMIER WASHING MACHINE MOTOR DRIVE BELT 4 to 5 kg M20 0800
- LG FUZZY LOGIC Top Loader WASHING MACHINE MOTOR DRIVE BELT 0804
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by model number.
Last updated September 2026
Find your washer motor or sensor
Before you start — power off at the wall
⚠️ Mains-side work. Always unplug the washer at the wall before removing any panel. Never test windings with power connected to the machine.
You’ll need:
– Multimeter (auto-ranging is easier; a $20 manual-range Bunnings unit is fine).
– Screwdriver to drop the back / kick panel.
– Phone camera to photograph the wiring before you disconnect anything.
Identify your motor type first
| Motor type | Typical machines | Where it is |
|---|---|---|
| Universal motor (brushed) | Older front-loaders pre-2010 (most brands), older Westinghouse top-loaders | Bottom of cabinet, drives the drum via a belt |
| BLDC inverter motor | Modern Bosch, Samsung, many Beko | Same location as universal — but no brushes, controlled by an inverter board |
| Direct-drive (DD) | LG (most), some modern Samsung, F&P SmartDrive | Directly on the back of the drum (no belt) |
The motor type changes which terminals you test and what readings to expect.
Test 1: Universal motor (older washers)
A universal motor has two terminal blocks: one for the field winding (stator) and one for the armature (rotor, accessed through carbon brushes).
Procedure:
1. Disconnect the motor’s wiring loom. Photograph the connections first.
2. Multimeter to ohms (Ω) range, lowest setting (200Ω or similar).
3. Field winding test: probes on the two field terminals. Expect 1-5 Ω typical reading. Infinity (OL) = open winding, motor toast.
4. Armature test: probes on the two armature terminals. Expect 2-8 Ω. Rotate the motor shaft slowly while probed — the reading should stay roughly constant. Big jumps = bad commutator segment (often visible as a burnt strip on the commutator if you open the brush hatch).
5. Insulation test: one probe on a winding terminal, the other on the motor body / chassis. Expect infinity (OL). Any reading = winding shorted to chassis = unsafe, motor toast.
Brush check (universal motors only): the carbon brushes ride on the commutator. They wear down over years of use. Look at the brush hatch (small access cover on the side of the motor). If the brushes are worn shorter than 5mm = replace. Brush sets are a cheap, common swap.
Test 2: BLDC inverter motor (modern Bosch, Samsung)
BLDC motors have three windings (U, V, W phases) wound in a stator. The inverter board sequences them.
Procedure:
1. Disconnect the motor’s wiring loom. Photograph the connections first.
2. Multimeter to ohms (Ω) range.
3. Test each winding pair: U-V, V-W, U-W. All three readings should be within 10% of each other — typically in the range of 1-10 Ω depending on the motor.
4. One reading much higher (or OL) = open winding. One reading much lower = shorted winding. Either way, motor toast.
5. Insulation test: each winding to the motor chassis. Expect infinity. Any low reading = winding shorted to chassis.
If all three windings read healthy and the motor still doesn’t run, the fault is almost certainly the inverter board or its supply, not the motor. Move your diagnosis upstream.
Test 3: Direct-drive motor (LG, modern Samsung, F&P SmartDrive)
Same three-winding principle as BLDC. Plus the Hall sensor on the back.
Stator winding test (same as BLDC):
1. Disconnect the motor’s connector at the inverter board. Photograph first.
2. Ohms range. Test each pair of stator phases.
3. All three within 10% = motor windings OK.
4. Mismatch or OL = stator winding fault.
Hall sensor test:
1. Reconnect the motor’s main connector (so the inverter can supply the Hall sensor with 5V).
2. Power the machine on at the wall but don’t start a cycle — most boards energise the sensor on standby.
3. Multimeter to DC volts range.
4. Identify the Hall sensor connector — usually a small 4-5 wire harness separate from the main motor cable.
5. Supply pin: ~5V DC against the 0V (common) pin. No 5V = wiring fault or inverter board fault, not the sensor.
6. Signal pins (usually 3 of them): with the rotor stationary, you’ll read a fixed value (0V or ~5V). Rotate the rotor by hand slowly. The signal pins should toggle between 0V and ~5V as the magnets pass the sensor.
7. One signal pin stuck on 0V or 5V while you rotate = that channel of the Hall sensor is dead. Sensor replacement time. See our LG washing machine LE error guide for the LG Hall sensor part numbers.
What to do with the results
| Reading | What it means | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| All windings 1-10 Ω, balanced, no chassis short | Motor windings healthy | Look upstream — inverter board, wiring, control board, Hall sensor |
| One winding OL (open) | Burned winding | Replace motor (or whole stator on direct-drive) |
| One winding much lower than the others | Shorted turns | Replace motor |
| Winding-to-chassis < infinity | Short to ground | Replace motor (also: unsafe, don’t power on) |
| Hall sensor signal pins toggle as rotor turns | Sensor working | Fault is elsewhere (inverter board, wiring, control board) |
| Hall sensor signal pin stuck | Hall sensor dead | Replace Hall sensor |
| No 5V supply on sensor | Wiring or inverter board fault | Trace back from the sensor connector |
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney. Not sure which one fits your model? Run your model through the part finder and we will confirm before you order.
FAQs
My multimeter only goes down to 200Ω — accurate enough?
For a healthy washer motor (1-10 Ω), the reading on a 200Ω scale will look like “00.5” or similar — usable. For a precise reading, switch to a 2k or 20k range if your meter has one, or get an auto-ranging meter (~$30 at Bunnings).
I get a “1.” reading on every test — what does that mean?
On many multimeters, “1.” on the leftmost digit (everything else blank) means out of range / overload (OL) — i.e. infinite resistance. Either your probes aren’t making contact (check the connector pins are clean), the winding is open, or you’re on a too-low range. Switch to a higher range to confirm.
The motor windings test fine but the machine still won’t spin — what’s wrong?
Most likely the inverter board, the main control board, the wiring loom between board and motor, or the Hall sensor (on direct-drive). Healthy windings rule out the motor itself but not the rest of the chain. See our LG LE error and Fisher & Paykel washing machine repair guide for the upstream diagnosis paths.
Is it dangerous to test a washing machine motor?
Resistance (ohms) testing is done with the machine unplugged and the motor disconnected — no danger. The DC volts Hall sensor test requires the machine powered on with panels open — that has mains-side risk. If you’re not comfortable working on a powered machine with panels off, skip the Hall sensor test and just swap the sensor (cheap relative to the time saved).
What’s a “stator” vs a “rotor” vs an “armature”?
Stator = the stationary windings (in BLDC and direct-drive motors). Rotor = the moving part with magnets (in BLDC and direct-drive). Armature = the moving part with windings in a brushed universal motor (older washers). The terminology depends on motor type.
Related guides
- LG washing machine LE error — Hall-sensor diagnosis path
- Bosch washing machine E18 error
- Samsung washing machine 4C error
- Washing machine not draining
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine repair guide
- LG washing machine repair guide
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit motor / sensor / inverter board out.
- Browse washing machine parts
- Order before 12pm AEST ships from our Sydney warehouse same day, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
