Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A Fisher & Paykel or Haier fridge that is warm in the fresh-food section while the freezer stays cold usually has a stopped evaporator fan motor, or a failed defrost heater or sensor that has iced over the vents. Check the door seal and vents first, then match the model number on the sticker inside the fresh-food compartment. Fan motors, sensors, defrost heaters and boards are stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Last updated September 2026
Fisher & Paykel fridge parts: start with the symptom
The milk is warm and the ice cream is rock hard. Start with the symptom. Fisher & Paykel sits inside the Haier group, so some listings carry both badges. The model number in the listing title is the match.
| What you’re noticing | What usually causes it | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Fridge warm, freezer cold, no airflow from the vents | Evaporator fan motor stopped behind the freezer panel | Fisher and Paykel Fridge Fan Motor DC12V Inside The Freezer |
 Same pattern on a Haier badge, sometimes after a spell of buzzing | Freezer fan motor worn or seized | Haier Fridge Freezer FAN MOTOR HRF565YHC HRF516YS |
 Fresh-food section cooling unevenly, small inside fan silent | Circulation fan motor in the fresh-food compartment | Fisher Paykel Fridge Small Fan Motor DC12V Inside The Fridge |
 Temperatures swinging, food freezing, display reading nonsense | Temperature sensor feeding the board false readings | Fisher Paykel Fridge Freezer Temperature Sensor Kit Assembly |
 Frost wall behind the freezer panel, fridge warming over days | Defrost heater failed, so the coil never clears | Fisher & Paykel Fridge / Freezer DEFROST HEATER |
 Same frost wall on a Haier HBM450 bottom-mount | Defrost fuse wire cable | Haier Fridge Fuse Wire Cable 0.75mm With 2 Fuses HBM450SA1 |
 Frost keeps coming back on an RX model, heater tests fine | Defrost harness | Fisher Paykel Fridge Harness Defrost RX628DX1, RX628DW1, RX611DUX1 |
 Fan running, fridge warm on a model with an air damper | Damper stuck closed | Fisher Paykel Haier FRIDGE Damper Air suits RX628DW1 |
 Cabinet sides hot, whole fridge slowly warming | Condenser fan motor at the back not running | Fisher Paykel Fridge Condenser Fan Motor RX611DUX1 RX628DX1 |
 Older two-door fridge with a dial, too warm or freezing food | Thermostat | Fisher Paykel 2 Door Fridge Thermostat |
 Lights and display on, compressor silent, inverter model | Inverter board, fitted after diagnosis only | Haier F&P Fridge Inverter Board HBM450SA1 HFD647AS |
Why the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms
Many frost-free Fisher & Paykel and Haier fridges make their cold in one place: an evaporator coil behind the freezer’s back panel. A fan pulls air across that coil, around the freezer, then through a duct into the fresh-food section. On many models an air damper in that duct opens and closes to hold the fridge temperature.
So three things starve the fridge while the freezer, right beside the coil, stays cold. The fan stops. Frost blocks the coil. Or the damper sticks shut. The compressor can be running perfectly the whole time, which is why a warm fridge is often a $25–60 part rather than a new fridge.
The 10-minute checks before you buy a part
- Door seal. Close the door on a sheet of paper at several points. If it slides out with no drag, cold is leaking. We don’t hold fridge door gaskets in stock today, so send the model number through the contact page and we’ll check what’s possible for that model.
- Vents. Move food away from the air vents on the back walls. A tub of yoghurt pressed against the outlet can mimic a dead fan.
- Condenser and clearance. Unplug the fridge, pull it out and vacuum the condenser coil and grille. Leave the air gap the manual gives. A choked condenser warms the whole fridge, freezer included.
- Defrost test. Frost on the freezer’s back panel or vents? Move the food to an esky, switch off, leave the doors open with towels down until the ice has gone, then run it with the doors shut overnight. Cold by morning but warming again within days, with frost back on the panel, means the auto-defrost isn’t working.
Water under the crisper is often a blocked defrost drain: a clean, not a part.
Fans, sensors and defrost parts
Fans: which one stopped?
A healthy evaporator fan makes a steady soft whirr behind the freezer panel while the compressor runs; a buzz, a tick or silence is the clue. The condenser fan sits low at the back beside the compressor. The evaporator vs condenser fan guide tells them apart, and Haier owners with a buzzing freezer should read the Haier evaporator fan motor guide. The shelf also carries the Haier Fridge Freezer Fan Motor Fc and, for RF605 models, the Fisher & Paykel/Haier Fridge Fan FC VTZ RF605QNUVX1 RF605QDVX1.
Sensors: the fridge that misreads its own temperature
A drifting sensor tells the board the fridge is warmer or colder than it is, so food freezes one week and sweats the next. The Fisher & Paykel temperature sensor kit guide covers the fit and the erratic temperature sensor guide the symptoms. For Haier-badged fridges there’s the Haier Fridge Freezer Temperature Sensor; match your model first. Showing a code? Decode it first with the Fisher & Paykel fridge error codes or Haier fridge error codes. Older two-door fridges with a dial use a mechanical thermostat instead; the fridge thermostat guide shows the check.
Defrost heaters and harnesses
The defrost heater melts frost off the evaporator on a timed cycle. When it fails, or the harness or fuse feeding it goes open, frost grows daily until the fridge warms. With the fridge unplugged and the freezer panel off, a multimeter across the heater shows whether it’s open circuit. The defrost heater replacement guide covers the job and the Haier icing up guide the Haier families. HRF700 and RF605 owners should check the Haier F&P Fridge Heater Defrost FC VTZ HRF700YCX, RF605QDUVB1. Never chip ice off the evaporator with a knife or screwdriver: one nick in the coil and the gas is gone.
Boards: the expensive end, so prove it first
Lights on, display working, compressor silent, both sections slowly warming: on electronic Haier and Fisher & Paykel models that points at the inverter board or main controller. It is also what a fridge looks like mid-defrost, or when a stopped condenser fan has let the compressor overheat. Wait an hour and listen for the compressor. With the fridge unplugged, check the condenser fan turns freely and the coil isn’t choked, and look for scorched or corroded plugs. The Haier main controller guide walks through it, and the Haier fridge not cooling guide covers the cheaper causes.
Only then does a board earn its place in the cart: the Haier Fridge Main Controller HSBS555AS HSBS555AW for that side-by-side family, or the inverter board in the table. If a new board doesn’t start the compressor, stop. That diagnosis belongs to a refrigeration repairer.
How to match your Fisher & Paykel or Haier fridge model
On most Fisher & Paykel and Haier fridges the model sticker is inside the fresh-food compartment, on a side wall or behind the crisper bin. Copy the model code, not the longer serial number beside it. RF, RX and E-series Fisher & Paykel fridges and the Haier HBM, HRF and HSBS families use different fans, sensors and heaters, and suffixes split them further.
Search the full model number on the site and use the listing title as the match. The Fisher & Paykel model number guide shows where the sticker hides, the Fisher & Paykel model pages group the families, and you can browse Fisher & Paykel parts, the fridge and freezer parts store or the every-brand fridge spare parts guide. Not sure? Send the model number via the contact page and we’ll check before you order.
DIY or repairer?
Fans, sensors, dampers and defrost heaters are screwdriver jobs with the fridge unplugged and the food in an esky: panel off, photograph the plugs, swap plug-for-plug. Sensors and fans sit roughly $25–60, defrost heaters $45–65 and boards $140–180. A refrigeration call-out typically runs $100–165 before parts, so a confirmed fan or sensor fitted yourself is the cheapest fix going.
Stop at the sealed system: the compressor, the gas and the filter drier are licensed refrigeration work only. Stop too if the fridge trips the safety switch or smells of burning. And a board goes in after diagnosis, never on a hunch.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the model number on a Fisher & Paykel fridge?
On most Fisher & Paykel fridges the model sticker is inside the fresh-food compartment, on a side wall or behind the crisper bin. Copy the full letter-and-number code, including the suffix, because fridges that look identical can take different fans and sensors.
Why is my Fisher & Paykel fridge warm but the freezer is cold?
Usually the evaporator fan has stopped, the defrost system has failed and frost has blocked the coil, or the air damper has stuck shut. Check the vents and door seal, then do a manual defrost and watch whether frost returns.
Do Fisher & Paykel and Haier fridges use the same parts?
Some do: Fisher & Paykel sits inside the Haier group, so some listings carry both badges. Many don’t, so never assume. Match the full model number on your sticker to the listing title, or send it to us.
Can I buy a Fisher & Paykel fridge door seal?
Fridge door gaskets are not held in stock today, so we won’t pretend otherwise. Send the model number from the sticker through the contact page and we’ll check what’s possible for that fridge before you spend anything.
Can I replace a fridge fan motor myself?
Yes, on most models it’s a screwdriver job. Unplug the fridge, move the food to an esky, remove the freezer back panel, photograph the plug and swap the motor. Match the motor to your model first; fans differ between families.
How do I know the fridge board has failed?
Lights on and compressor silent is the board pattern, but a defrost cycle or a stopped condenser fan looks the same. Wait an hour, check the condenser fan turns freely and inspect the plugs first. If a new board doesn’t start the compressor, call a refrigeration repairer.
Read the model number off the sticker inside the fresh-food compartment, search it on the site, or send it through the contact page and we’ll check the part before you order. Fans, sensors, defrost parts and boards are dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
