Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A fan-forced oven element is the ring-shaped heater behind the rear panel, around the fan. If your oven won’t heat but the fan and light still work, the element has usually failed. Replacing it takes about 30–45 minutes: isolate the power at the switchboard, undo two screws, swap the spade terminals onto the new element. We stock fan-forced elements for most AU brands with same-day Sydney dispatch.
The part that fixes this
- CHEF SIMPSON WESTINGHOUSE FAN FORCED OVEN ELEMENT 0902
- FAN FORCED OVEN ELEMENT SMEG TECHNIKA BLANCO OMEGA 2200w FE-06, 203174 0310
- Fisher & Paykel Fan Forced Oven Element 0322
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by model number.
Last updated September 2026
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Symptoms: how to know it’s the fan-forced element
A fan-forced oven element is the circular heating element mounted on the back wall of the oven cavity, encircling the fan, so the fan blows heated air evenly through the oven. The clearest sign it has failed is simple: the oven won’t heat but the fan and interior light still work. Other tell-tale symptoms include the oven being very slow to heat or never reaching the set temperature, food cooking unevenly, the element visibly blistered, bulging, cracked or broken (look for a bright burn spot or a snapped coil), and the oven tripping the safety switch (RCD) the moment you select fan-forced mode — a sign the element has shorted to earth. If the upper grill or lower bake elements still glow but fan-forced does nothing, that confirms the fault is the rear element, not the thermostat or selector switch.
Fan-forced vs upper, lower and grill elements
Most AU ovens have several elements, and only the failed one needs replacing. Knowing which is which saves you buying the wrong part.
| Element | Location | Used for | Typical wattage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fan-forced (rear) | Back wall, ringed around the fan | Even all-over cooking, most baking | 2000–2500W |
| Lower / bake (bottom) | Floor of the cavity | Bottom heat, pastry bases | 1000–1300W |
| Upper / top | Roof of the cavity | Top browning, conventional bake | 800–1100W |
| Grill | Roof, heavier coil | Grilling, high top heat | 1800–2400W |
If only fan-forced mode fails, you need the rear fan-forced element — not the grill or bottom element. Fan-forced elements are usually 2200W or 2500W on AU models. Match the part number stamped on the old element or its bracket rather than guessing by wattage, because terminal positions and ring diameter differ between brands like Westinghouse, Smeg and Fisher & Paykel.
SAFETY FIRST: 240V mains — isolate before you touch anything
This is 240V mains work. An oven element carries enough current to kill. Before you remove a single screw, treat the appliance as live until proven dead.
- Isolate at the switchboard: switch off the oven’s dedicated circuit breaker, or for a plug-in oven, unplug it at the wall. Don’t rely on the oven’s own knobs.
- Verify the RCD/safety switch: if your element shorted and tripped the RCD, that protection has done its job — but you still must isolate at the board before working.
- Confirm dead: where possible, test with a multimeter or non-contact voltage tester that the terminals are de-energised.
- Let it cool: elements run at hundreds of degrees.
Under AS/NZS wiring rules, fixed-wired ovens connected to the switchboard should be worked on or reconnected by a licensed electrician. If your oven is hard-wired (no plug), if the wiring is damaged, or if you’re at all unsure, stop and call a licensed electrician or appliance technician. DIY element swaps are most appropriate on plug-in units you can fully unplug. Never test by switching the oven on with the rear panel off — exposed live terminals are lethal. Wear gloves to avoid cuts on sheet-metal edges, and keep the appliance isolated for the entire job, not just while you’re loosening screws.
Step-by-step: replacing the fan-forced element
Allow 30–45 minutes. You’ll need a Phillips screwdriver, a nut driver, and a phone to photograph the wiring.
- Isolate the power at the switchboard or unplug the oven, and let the cavity cool completely.
- Empty the oven — remove shelves and the fan-forced element from view by clearing the cavity.
- Remove the rear inner panel. Inside the cavity, undo the screws holding the fan baffle/back plate. The element sits behind it, secured by two screws through the rear wall.
- Photograph the terminals so you can reconnect identically.
- Withdraw the element a few centimetres through the cavity opening to expose the spade terminals.
- Slide off the two spade connectors. Note which goes where.
- Fit the new element, push the connectors firmly onto the matching terminals, refit the two screws and the back plate.
- Restore power, test on fan-forced mode at 180°C and check it heats and doesn’t trip the RCD.
Cost: parts and labour in Australia (AUD)
Replacing a fan-forced oven element yourself is one of the cheapest oven repairs in Australia.
| Item | DIY (part only) | Technician (part + labour) |
|---|---|---|
| Fan-forced element | $35–$90 | $180–$320 |
| Call-out fee | — | $90–$150 included above |
| Typical total | $35–$90 | $180–$320 |
A genuine or quality-equivalent fan-forced element from us is typically $35–$90 AUD depending on brand and wattage, and we offer same-day Sydney dispatch on stocked parts. Compare that to $180–$320 for a technician once the call-out fee is added. A new fan-forced wall oven runs $700–$2,000+ installed, so even on an older oven a sub-$100 element is the cheapest way to get years more life out of an appliance that’s otherwise working fine — the rest of the oven (cavity, fan, door, controls) typically long outlasts the element.
Find the right fan-forced element for your oven
Match the part number on your old element to the right replacement below. If you can’t read it, use the Oz Part Finder.
| Part number | Fits | Link |
|---|---|---|
 0122004574 | Chef, Simpson, Westinghouse, Electrolux fan-forced ovens | |
 FE-06 / 203174 (2200W) | Smeg, Technika, Blanco, Omega | |
 See listing | Fisher & Paykel (B1452E, B1600E, B1601E) | |
 499003 | Neff (B1320, B1331, B1624N0, B1641NO) | |
 ELE6336 (2500W) | Emilia, Venini (EF6F1, F6VPI, VFF06SS) | |
 ELE6336 (2500W) | Linea (L156SS, L186SS, CP859MT, L196FS) |
Can’t see your brand? Many fan-forced elements are shared across Zanussi, DeLonghi, ILVE and Glem Gas ovens, so one part often covers several model ranges — the Part Finder matches by model number and tells you the exact element your oven takes before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my oven fan work but it won’t heat?
The fan motor and the heating element are powered separately. When the fan and light run but the oven stays cold on fan-forced mode, the rear fan-forced element has almost always failed and needs replacing.
Can I replace a fan-forced oven element myself?
Yes, on a plug-in oven you can unplug at the wall — it’s a two-screw, two-terminal job taking 30–45 minutes. If your oven is hard-wired to the switchboard, AS/NZS wiring rules mean a licensed electrician should do the reconnection.
How do I know which element to buy?
Read the part number stamped on the old element or its mounting bracket and match it exactly. Fan-forced elements differ by ring diameter, wattage (usually 2200W or 2500W) and terminal position, so don’t substitute by wattage alone.
Why does my oven trip the safety switch when it heats?
A cracked or blistered element can short to earth, causing the RCD/safety switch to trip the instant it draws current. This is a classic failed-element symptom — replace the element.
How much does a fan-forced oven element cost in Australia?
A replacement element is typically $35–$90 AUD. A technician fitting one usually runs $180–$320 with the call-out fee, so DIY saves a lot if your oven is unplugged and accessible.
Is it worth fixing an old oven?
Usually yes. The element is almost always the first thing to wear out, while the cavity, fan and controls keep going for years. A sub-$100 element versus $700–$2,000+ for a new oven makes the repair an easy call whenever the rest of the oven is sound.
My element looks fine — could something else be the cause?
Possibly the thermostat, selector switch or a broken terminal connection. But a visibly blistered element, or one that tests open-circuit on a multimeter, confirms the element is the fault.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my oven fan work but the oven won’t heat?
The fan motor and the heating element are powered separately. When the fan and interior light run but the oven stays cold on fan-forced mode, the ring-shaped fan-forced element behind the rear panel has almost always failed and needs replacing.
How much does a fan-forced oven element cost in Australia?
A replacement fan-forced oven element is typically $35-$90. A technician fitting one usually runs $180-$320 once the call-out fee is added, and a new fan-forced wall oven is $700-$2,000 plus installed — so a sub-$100 element is the cheapest way to get years more from a sound oven.
Can I replace a fan-forced oven element myself?
On a plug-in oven you can unplug at the wall, yes — it’s a two-screw, two-spade-terminal job taking about 30-45 minutes. If the oven is hard-wired to the switchboard, AS/NZS wiring rules mean a licensed electrician should handle the work. Never test with the rear panel off.
Why does my oven trip the safety switch when it heats up?
A cracked or blistered oven element can short to earth, tripping the RCD safety switch the instant it draws current — especially the moment you select fan-forced mode. That’s a classic failed-element symptom: isolate the power at the switchboard and replace the element.
How do I know which oven element to buy?
Match the part number stamped on the old element or its mounting bracket. Fan-forced elements differ by ring diameter, wattage (usually 2200W or 2500W on Australian models) and terminal position, so don’t substitute by wattage alone — or run your model through the Part Finder.
Is it worth fixing an old oven with a dead element?
Usually yes. The element is almost always the first thing to wear out, while the cavity, fan, door and controls keep going for years. A sub-$100 element against $700-$2,000 plus for a new oven makes the repair an easy call whenever the rest of the oven is sound.
Related guides
- Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder
- Oven not heating: thermostat vs element diagnosis
- Grill element replacement: safe step-by-step
Ready to fix it?
Match your old part number and get a quality fan-forced element on its way today. Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder — same-day Sydney dispatch on stocked elements.
