
Quick answer: Only Fisher & Paykel heat pump (DH8060P, DH9060P) and condensing (DE8060P, DC8060P) dryers show numeric fault codes — the panel lights go off, the machine beeps continuously and the display shows “Fault” plus a number. The most common heat pump codes are Fault 2 (E2, drain pump — very often just a full tank) and E6 (blocked filter or airflow). Empty the water tank, clean both filters, then switch off at the wall for one minute and retry. Vented AeroSense, AeroCare and timer models have no display — they signal faults with LED patterns and beeps.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
The part that fixes this
- FISHER & PAYKEL HAIER Dryer drain Pump DH8060P1 DH8060P3 DH9060C1 DH9060P1 HDHP80A1 HDHP80E1 HDHP80E1 HDHP80A1
- Genuine Fisher & Paykel/Haier Dryer Exhaust Sensor
- Fisher Paykel Haier Condenser Dryer Heater Suits DE8060P3 DC8060P1 DE8060P2 DE8060P2 DE8060P1 HD80-01 HDHP90AN
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by Fisher &Amp; Paykel model number.
Last updated September 2026
Decode any appliance error code — instant lookup
Which Fisher & Paykel dryers show error codes
Fisher & Paykel dryers sold in Australia fall into three families, and only two can display a numeric code — so start by working out which one you own.
Heat pump models (DH8060P, DH9060P series). Full digital panel. In fault mode the display lights switch off, the machine beeps continuously and the screen shows “Fault” plus a number — the code technicians write as E2 displays as Fault 2. The table below is verified against Fisher & Paykel’s own service documentation for this family.
Condensing models (DE8060P, DC8060P series). These also show numeric Err codes when they fault, but Fisher & Paykel publishes no per-number meanings for consumers. Any list that confidently explains a condensing Err number is guessing — the honest routine is covered below.
Vented models (AeroSense DE45F56E and DE60F60EW1, AeroCare AD39 and AD55, timer-dial DE60FA). No numeric display at all. They report problems through LED light patterns and beeps, so there is no code to look up — you diagnose by symptom.
One caution: tidy “E1 to E20” Fisher & Paykel lists circulate online, and several entries conflict with the maker’s own service documentation — claiming E4 is a heater element or E6 a door switch, neither correct. We have excluded anything that does not match the official material. For cross-brand background, see our heat pump dryer error codes guide.
Fisher & Paykel dryer error codes at a glance
This matrix applies to the DH8060P and DH9060P heat pump family. Behaviour can vary by model, so check your manual for your exact machine.
| Code | What it means | Most likely cause | The fix / part |
|---|---|---|---|
E2 (displays as Fault 2) | Drain pump / water-collection fault — condensate not pumped from the sump | Water tank full, plumbed hose kinked, lint on the sump float, failed pump | Empty the tank and clear the float; recurring means the heat pump dryer drain pump |
| E4 | Drum temperature not rising — the sealed heat-pump system is not producing heat | Blocked lint/condenser filter suppressing temperature rise; refrigerant leak; compressor fault | Clean both filters and retry; still no heat is a sealed-system job for a technician |
| E6 | Blocked filter / airflow restriction (service documentation also links a humidity-sensor short) | Blocked lint filter, blocked condenser filter, dirty or failed moisture sensor | Clean both filters, wipe the sensor strips; persistent, run the Part Finder quiz |
E32 | NTC2 temperature sensor (near the condenser outlet) open or short circuit | Loose connector, failed thermistor, board fault | Power-cycle; recurring is a sensor/board job — see the Fisher & Paykel dryer exhaust sensor, matched to your model |
| E33 | NTC3 temperature sensor (near the compressor outlet) open or short circuit | Loose connector, failed thermistor, board fault | Power-cycle and retry; recurring means a technician — match sensors via the Part Finder quiz |
| E70 | Power-supply voltage out of range | Unstable mains, extension lead or adaptor, supply/board detection fault | Plug straight into a known-good wall outlet, no extension lead; recurring on a sound supply means a technician |
| E72 | Communication failure between the control board and motor drive | Loose or damaged harness, failed control board | Off at the wall one minute and restart; recurring means a technician |
The homeowner reset for any display model: silence the beeping with any button, off at the wall for one minute, remove the load, run a Time Dry 30 cycle. If the same fault number returns, record it with your serial number and treat it as genuine.
E2 (Fault 2): water is not being pumped out
E2 is the code Australian owners see most, and usually the cheapest to clear — on most models the condensate simply has nowhere to go. Switch off at the wall before touching anything inside.
- Empty the water tank, slide it firmly back in and restart. A full tank is the most common trigger.
- If the dryer is plumbed to a drain, check the hose is not kinked or blocked behind the machine.
- Clear visible lint from the sump and float area — lint sludge can hold the float up so the dryer thinks the sump is full.
- If E2 keeps returning with an empty tank and clean float, the drain pump or its float switch has likely failed.
A recurring Fault 2 is then a straightforward swap: the genuine Fisher & Paykel heat pump dryer drain pump. Confirm fitment against your model number, or let the Part Finder quiz match it.
E6 and E4: filters, airflow and a dryer that will not heat
These two share a starting routine because a blocked filter can trigger either — E6 directly, and E4 indirectly, since choked airflow suppresses the temperature rise the dryer expects. Off at the wall first.
- Clean the lint filter and refit it correctly — a half-seated filter restricts airflow like a blocked one.
- Clean the condenser filter (the second, lower filter) and gently vacuum the fins behind it if dusty.
- Wipe the metal moisture-sensor strips in the drum with a vinegar-dampened cloth — softener residue makes them misread.
- Give the dryer breathing room around its air intake.
- Run a Time Dry 30 cycle and see if the code returns.
If E6 persists after a proper clean, the moisture sensor may have failed — run the Part Finder quiz with your model number. If E4 persists with clean filters, stop: that points at the sealed heat-pump system — a refrigerant leak or compressor fault. Like a fridge regas, it is technician-only; there is no DIY part for it.
Err numbers on DE8060P and DC8060P condensing dryers
Worth being straight here: this family does show Err numbers, but Fisher & Paykel publishes no consumer meanings for them, so we will not assign any. What to do instead:
- Record the exact number displayed, plus the model and serial number from the model sticker.
- Run the standard reset — silence the beeps, off at the wall for one minute, remove the load, run Time Dry 30. One-off glitches often clear.
- If the number returns, give the code and serial to a service agent — they can look it up before arriving, which usually saves a second visit.
The fault families match the heat pump models — water not draining (tank, hose, pump), temperature sensing, heating, filter and airflow, and the control board — so the same first checks apply. On heating, this family uses an electric heater rather than a sealed system: we stock the Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer heater and condenser dryer exhaust sensors. For this family’s common jobs, see the DE8060P1 and DE8060P2 dryer parts guide.
No display at all? AeroSense, AeroCare and timer models
On the vented AeroSense (DE45F56E, DE60F60EW1), AeroCare (AD39, AD55) and timer-dial DE60FA, an unfamiliar flashing LED pattern with beeping means a fault — often overheating, airflow, a thermostat or thermal fuse, a sensor, or the board — but the lights will not say which. Work by symptom:
- Switch off at the wall for about 15 seconds, power on and restart the cycle.
- Clean the lint filter and check the exhaust duct is not crushed, kinked or packed with lint — restricted exhaust is the classic cause of vented-dryer overheating.
- If it cuts out hot or trips repeatedly, the thermostat or thermal fuse has usually done its job once too often — we stock the genuine Fisher & Paykel capacitor and thermostat overload fuse kit.
- If the pattern keeps returning after a reset and clean, book a service — persistent flashing is this family’s hard fault code.
Squealing, rumbling or a drum that will not turn: faults with no code
Some of the most common Fisher & Paykel dryer failures never show a code on any model — the electronics cannot see them. A worn belt, a collapsed drum bearing or a seized idler pulley announce themselves by sound: a building squeal or rumble, a drum turning slowly under load, or a motor humming while the drum sits still.
Diagnose by ear and by hand — with the dryer off at the wall, turn the drum yourself. Grinding or a gravelly rumble points at the drum bearing; a drum spinning freely with no resistance means a snapped belt such as the genuine Fisher & Paykel dryer fan belt; a rhythmic squeak under load is typically the idler pulley tension wheel. These parts wear together on the condensing family, so if you are opening the machine it is worth fitting the condenser dryer service kit — belt, bearing, guides and tension wheel in one job.
Codes that aren’t faults
A large share of “error code” searches are the dryer working as designed. Check these before assuming a breakdown:
- E71 (overload warning): the load is too large for the cycle — a warning, not a hardware fault. Split big loads into two.
- Lo: the room is too cold for the heat pump (below roughly 2°C; Fisher & Paykel recommends 5–35°C). Common in garages on winter mornings — run it in a warmer room.
- Tank full prompt: the dryer pauses and beeps because the condensate tank is full. Empty, refit, press Start; if plumbed, check the hose is not kinked.
- Lint / condenser filter light: a clean-filter reminder — it flashes at every cycle start as housekeeping. Flashing mid-cycle means airflow is actually blocked: clean both filters.
- Door not closed prompt: close the door until it clicks. If it still reads open when firmly shut, the catch or switch may be at fault — we stock the genuine Fisher & Paykel dryer door lock switch.
- Keylock light with two beeps: the child lock is active. Hold the Keylock button for about two seconds to release it.
Find the exact part for your model
Every part above fits some Fisher & Paykel dryers and not others, so the model number decides everything — it is on the model sticker, usually around the door rim or on the back panel. Our Fisher & Paykel model number guide shows where to look for each series, and the general find your model page covers every brand. Worn or missing sticker on an older vented machine? Our guide to identifying an old dryer without a model sticker can usually narrow it down. Then the Part Finder quiz matches your model to the right part in about a minute, or browse the dryer parts range.
FAQ
What does Fault 2 mean on a Fisher & Paykel heat pump dryer?
Fault 2 is the E2 drain code: condensate is not being pumped from the sump. Most often the water tank is simply full — empty it and restart. If it returns, check a plumbed hose for kinks and clear lint from the float; after that, a repeating Fault 2 usually means the drain pump or its float switch has failed.
Why is my Fisher & Paykel dryer beeping non-stop with the display lights off?
That is fault mode on the DH heat pump and DE/DC condensing families. Press any button to silence it and the display shows “Fault” plus a number — write it down. Then off at the wall for one minute, remove the load, run Time Dry 30; if the number returns, it is a genuine fault.
My DE8060P condensing dryer shows an Err number — what does it mean?
Fisher & Paykel does not publish consumer meanings for the condensing family’s Err numbers, so no list online can honestly tell you. Record the number and serial, do the basics — empty the tank, clean both filters, power-cycle — and if it returns, give both to a service agent. The fault families match the heat pump models: drainage, sensors, heating, airflow and the board.
How do I reset a Fisher & Paykel dryer error code?
Silence the beeps with any button, off at the wall for one minute, take the load out, then run a Time Dry 30 cycle. That clears one-off glitches like a power dip. A code that reappears is not a glitch — record the number and serial and fix the cause.
Are the Fisher & Paykel E1 to E20 code lists online accurate?
Treat them with suspicion. Several widely copied entries conflict with Fisher & Paykel’s own service documentation — E4 is a no-heat sealed-system fault, not a heater element, and E6 is an airflow code, not a door switch. This guide only includes meanings verified against the official material; where nothing is published — condensing Err numbers — we say so rather than guess.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
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E2 (displays as Fault 2)
E32




