Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A dryer belt is identified by a code like 8PH1971 or 6PH1915: the first number is how many ribs it has, and the last number is its length in millimetres. Match those two numbers and the belt fits, whatever badge is on the machine — the same 5PHE330 belt is listed for Fisher & Paykel, Haier and Bosch dryers. Belts are typically $8 to $35, against $180 to $380 to have a dryer repaired for you.
Last updated August 2026
The belt code tells you everything
Dryer drive belts are ribbed poly-V belts, and they are described by a standard code rather than by brand. Once you can read the code, the whole category stops being confusing.
Take 8PH1971:
- 8 — the number of ribs running along the belt. Count them on the old belt.
- PH — the rib profile. Nearly all Australian dryer belts are PH; some carry an extra letter, as in PHE, for a profile variant.
- 1971 — the effective length in millimetres.
So a 6PH1915 is a six-rib belt 1,915mm long, and a 7PH1992 is a seven-rib belt 1,992mm long. Two numbers, and you have the part. This is why a belt listed for one brand so often turns out to be the belt for another.
Match your dryer to a belt
| Brand and models on the sticker | Belt | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Fisher & Paykel DE5060M2 · DE6060G1 · DE7060P1 · DE8060P2 | H0180300006C | Fisher & Paykel drive belt H0180300006C |
 Fisher & Paykel · Haier · Bosch DE4060M1 · HDV50E1 · Bosch small-belt models | 5PHE330 | Fisher & Paykel short belt Haier version Bosch version |
 Haier HDV40A1 · HDV50E1 · HDV60A1 · HDV70E1 (vented) | Haier vented | Haier vented dryer drive belt |
 Haier HDHP80AW1 · HDHP90AN1 (heat pump) | Haier heat pump | Haier heat pump dryer belt |
 Haier HD80-01 · HDC80E1 | 8PH1971 | Haier drive belt H0180300006B |
 Bosch WTN84200AU · WTW85460AU · WTG86400AU | 7PH1992 | Bosch drum drive belt 00753220 |
 Bosch WTW86200AU · WTW87564AU · WT47W580AU | 00650499 | Bosch drum drive belt 00650499 |
 Hisense HDHA80 · HDGE80H (heat pump) | Hisense heat pump | Hisense heat pump drum belt |
 Whirlpool AWD60A | 8PH1940 | Whirlpool drive belt H0020300746 |
 Heller · Conia | 6PH1915 | Heller and Conia drum drive belt |
 Conia CCD4501 (4.5kg) | 8PH1966 | Conia drive belt CCD4501 |
 Mistral MTD4 | 4PH1950 | Mistral drum belt |
 Asko T208H · T408HD · T608HX | 562038 | Asko drum drive belt 562038 |
 Technika TVD7U | Technika drum | Technika dryer drum belt |
 Esatto EVD7 | Esatto drum | Esatto dryer drum belt |
 Tempo · Stirling · Akai · Rank Arena · Abode · Omega | H0030300313 | Dryer green fan belt |
 Simpson (blower fan belt, not the drum belt) | 0198001122 | Simpson clear blower fan belt |
Can’t see your model? The full range is on the dryer and washer belt page, and if your badge isn’t listed anywhere, send us the model number — many of these belts are shared across brands that aren’t named in the listing.
Drum belt or fan belt? They’re different parts
Plenty of Australian dryers have two belts, and ordering the wrong one is a common and frustrating mistake.
The drum belt is the long one that wraps around the whole drum and runs to the motor pulley via an idler. It is the one that snaps and leaves the drum sitting still while the motor runs.
The fan or blower belt is short, drives the fan that moves the air, and on some machines is a different profile entirely — the Simpson clear blower belt above is a good example. If your drum turns but the clothes stay damp and the machine barely blows warm air out, look at the fan belt rather than the drum belt.
Getting the code off your dryer
Two ways, and the first is much the better one.
Read the old belt. If it has snapped, the code is usually printed along the smooth back face. Wipe the dust off and look — 6PH1915, 8PH1971, and so on. That single string beats every other identifier.
Use the model number. If the belt is unreadable or gone, the model sticker is your fallback. On most dryers it is on the door frame, visible with the door open, or behind the lint filter flap. If yours has been mounted on a wall for a decade and the sticker is unreadable, our guide on identifying an old dryer with no model sticker walks through the alternatives.
Don’t just fit a belt — check what killed the last one
This is the part most guides skip, and it is the difference between a repair that lasts and one that fails again by Christmas.
A drum belt does not usually die of old age alone. It dies because the idler pulley has seized or gone gritty, or because the rear drum bearing or felt has worn and the drum is dragging. Fit a new belt over a seized idler and you will hear the same squeal within weeks, and eventually snap the new belt too.
So before the new belt goes on: spin the idler pulley by hand. It should turn freely and silently. Spin the drum by hand with the belt off — it should turn smoothly, not grind or wobble. If either fails that test, replace it at the same time. We wrote this up in detail: replaced the dryer belt and it still squeals, and the practical walkthrough is here for Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux dryers.
Fitting it
Unplug the dryer at the wall — and if it is wall-mounted, take it down and work on it at bench height rather than over your head. Most vented dryers open from the front or the back panel; the belt wraps around the drum with the ribbed side against the drum, over the motor pulley and around the idler.
Two things worth knowing. Photograph the belt routing before you remove the old one, because the idler path is easy to get wrong. And ribbed side to the drum — a belt fitted smooth-side-in will slip and glaze within a load or two.
Brand-specific walkthroughs: Fisher & Paykel vented and heat pump, Simpson 39S500M and 39S600M, Simpson Sirocco 350 to 550, Simpson Maxidry and Minimax, Stirling and Euromaid and Baumatic 6PH1915.
What it costs either way
A dryer belt is typically $8 to $35. An idler pulley or drum bearing adds modestly to that. Against it, a repairer commonly charges $100 to $165 just to attend and diagnose before parts or labour, and a full dryer repair usually lands between $180 and $380 — with many charging a one-hour minimum even for a job that takes twenty minutes. A belt is about as favourable as that comparison ever gets.
Frequently asked questions
Q: What does a code like 8PH1971 mean on a dryer belt?
A: The first number is the rib count, PH is the rib profile, and the last number is the belt’s length in millimetres. So 8PH1971 is an eight-rib belt 1,971mm long. Match those and the belt fits regardless of what badge is on the dryer.
Q: My dryer drum turns but the clothes stay damp. Is that the belt?
A: Probably not the drum belt — if the drum is turning, that one is intact. Look at the fan or blower belt, which drives the air, and at the lint filter and ducting. A blocked vent produces the same symptom.
Q: I replaced the belt and it’s squealing again. What went wrong?
A: Almost always a seized idler pulley or a worn rear drum bearing — the thing that killed the first belt is still there. Spin the idler and the drum by hand with the belt off; if either is gritty or stiff, replace it with the belt.
Q: Can I use a dryer belt listed for a different brand?
A: If the rib count and length match, generally yes — that’s why the same 5PHE330 belt is listed for Fisher & Paykel, Haier and Bosch. Match the code from the old belt where you can, or send us your model number and we’ll check.
Q: Where do I find the model number on a dryer?
A: Usually on the door frame, visible with the door open, or behind the lint filter flap. If the sticker is gone, the old belt’s code is the next best identifier — and if you have neither, send us a photo of the machine and the drum.
Bottom line: count the ribs, read the length, and check the idler before you fit the new one. Match your model through the part finder and we’ll point you at the right belt.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
