Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Most heat pump and condenser dryer error codes fall into four groups: water/drainage, sensor, heating, or airflow. Many clear by isolating power for a minute. If not, empty the tank, clean the filters, and if it persists, the fault is usually the drain pump, temperature sensor, or heater.
Brand-specific code guides: Bosch · LG · Samsung · Fisher & Paykel · Haier · Hisense · Beko · Westinghouse, Simpson & Electrolux · Solt · Stirling (Aldi) · Esatto · Asko
Last updated June 2026
Your heat pump or condenser dryer stops mid-cycle, flashes a code or a symbol, and beeps at you. It is frustrating, but the good news is that most dryer error codes are the machine protecting itself, not a sign it is dead. On a modern 240V Australian dryer the code is really the machine telling you which system is unhappy: the water it collects, a temperature reading, the heater, or the airflow.
This guide is built around that idea. Instead of a false promise that “F3 always means X” — which is not true across brands — we group the codes by the symptom category they belong to, tell you the free check for each, and point you at the part that fixes it when the free checks come up clean.
Why do heat pump and condenser dryers throw error codes?
A heat pump or condenser dryer is a closed system. Unlike an old vented dryer that just blows hot, moist air out a hose, these machines pull the moisture out of the air, condense it into water, and collect it. That water has to go somewhere — into a removable tank or down a drain — and the air has to keep moving cleanly across the coils and filters for the whole thing to work.
Because the machine depends on all of that happening in balance, it watches itself constantly with sensors. When a reading falls outside the expected range — the water is not draining, a temperature probe reads wrong, the air is not moving — the control board halts the cycle and shows a code so it does not damage itself or your clothes. That is why the same underlying problem (say, a blocked filter) can show up differently on a Fisher & Paykel, a Beko, an Electrolux or a Haier: each brand uses its own code scheme.
So the smart move is not to chase a code number across the internet. It is to work out which category the fault sits in, do the free check for that category, and only then buy a part.
Important: codes differ by brand — read the symptom, not the number
Before you go further, one honest warning. There is no universal dryer error-code table. F1 on one brand is not F1 on another. A number that means “water error” on a condenser dryer might mean something unrelated on a heat pump model from a different maker.
What is consistent is the symptom category. Almost every heat pump or condenser dryer fault falls into one of four buckets, and each bucket has the same logic no matter whose badge is on the door:
- Water / drainage — often shown as a tap or water-drop symbol, or a code the manual lists under “empty tank” or “check drain”. Common on Fisher & Paykel, Haier, Beko and similar condenser and heat pump dryers.
- Sensor / temperature — the machine can’t get a sensible temperature reading.
- Heating — the drum never warms, or a safety cut-out has tripped.
- Airflow / filter — the air can’t move freely across the filters and condenser.
To confirm which one you’re looking at, get your exact code from the model sticker and the owner’s manual for your machine. The model sticker is usually inside the door opening, around the door seal, or on the back of the cabinet. Match the code to the category your manual assigns it, then use the section below.
Dryer error codes by symptom category — the fix table
| Symptom category | What it usually means | Free check first | Part / next step |
|---|---|---|---|
 Water / drainage error (often a tap or water-drop symbol) | Collected water can’t be dumped — full tank, blocked filter, or a failing drain pump | Empty the water tank; clear the pump filter/condenser flap; check the drain hose isn’t kinked | Dryer drain pump (e.g. BDC830W, DH8060P1) |
 Sensor / temperature error | A temperature probe (thermistor/exhaust sensor) is reading out of range or has failed | Isolate power for 60 seconds and restart; check the sensor isn’t caked in lint | Dryer exhaust/temperature sensor (e.g. H0020400466) |
 Heating error / no heat | The drum never warms, or a thermal safety cut-out has tripped | Clean every filter; empty the tank; give it 20 minutes (heat pumps warm slowly) | Dryer heater element (e.g. H0024000291A) / thermal cut-out |
| Airflow / filter error | The air can’t move — choked lint filter or condenser | Clean the door lint filter and the lower condenser filter; pull the machine off the wall | Clean filters/condenser — usually no part needed |
Prices and full model lists are in each section below. Now let’s take the four categories one at a time.
Water or drainage error: empty the tank, then check the drain pump
This is the most common code you’ll see on a heat pump or condenser dryer, and often shown as a tap or water-drop symbol or listed in your manual under “empty tank” or “check drain”. The machine has condensed water it can’t get rid of, so it stops before it overflows.
Work through these in order, all free:
- Empty the water tank and reseat it firmly. A full tank is the number-one cause of this code. Pull it, tip it out, slide it back in until it clicks, and restart.
- Clean the lower condenser filter / pump filter. Behind the flap at the base of the cabinet is a foam or mesh filter and, on many models, access to the drain pump filter. Lint and sludge collect here and block the water path. Rinse it and let it dry.
- Check the drain hose (if plumbed to drain). Some installs bypass the tank and drain to the standpipe. Make sure the hose isn’t kinked, pinched behind the machine, or blocked.
If the tank is empty, the filters are clean, the hose is clear and the water error keeps coming back, the drain pump itself has usually failed — it can’t push the collected water out. That’s the part to replace.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine / Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BDC830W | Beko condenser dryers | Genuine fit — match your model | $79.95 AUD | Buy now |
 DH8060P1 | DH8060P1, DH9060P1, DH8060C1, DH9060C1 (Fisher & Paykel heat pump) | Genuine fit | $89.95 AUD | Buy now |
 H0184000015 | DH8060P1, DH8060P3, DH9060C1, DH9060P1, HDHP80A1, HDHP80E1 (Fisher & Paykel / Haier) | Genuine fit | $93.95 AUD | Buy now |
For the full walk-through, see our guide on heat pump and condenser dryer drain pump replacement.
Sensor or temperature error: the thermistor / exhaust sensor
If the code points to a temperature or sensor fault — the drum won’t heat consistently, cycles cut short at random, or your manual lists the code under “sensor” or “thermistor” — the machine can’t get a reliable temperature reading.
Free checks first:
- Isolate power for 60 seconds. Switch off at the wall and pull the plug (or trip the circuit if hardwired). Wait a minute, restore power, and restart. A surprising number of one-off sensor faults are just a glitch the reset clears.
- Check the sensor isn’t buried in lint. The exhaust or temperature sensor sits in the air path. A thick lint coating can throw its reading. Clean the filters and airway thoroughly and try again.
If it keeps flagging the same sensor code after a reset and a clean, the temperature sensor (exhaust sensor / thermistor) has drifted or failed and needs replacing. It’s an inexpensive part and a common failure.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine / Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Exhaust / temperature sensor | DC8060P1, DE4024P1, DE4060M1, DE4560M1/M2, DE5060G1/M1/M2 (Fisher & Paykel / Haier) | Genuine fit | $32.95 AUD | Buy now |
 — | HDV70E1, HDY-D60WH, HDY-E60, HWD-C1200TXVE-U, HDC80E1 (Haier) | Genuine fit | $32.95 AUD | Buy now |
Heating error: no heat, or a tripped thermal cut-out
If the code sits in the heating category — the drum runs but stays cold, or your manual lists the code under “heating” or “overheat” — remember that heat pump dryers warm slowly by design. Don’t judge it in the first ten minutes.
Free checks:
- Clean every filter and empty the tank. On a heat pump dryer especially, blocked airflow or a full tank can stop it heating properly and trigger a fault. Clean the door filter, the lower condenser filter, and empty the tank.
- Give it 20 minutes and feel the drum. Run a standard cottons cycle and check whether the air warms at all after 15–20 minutes. Warm-but-slow points to airflow; dead cold every time points to a heating fault.
- Reset by isolating power. A tripped thermal cut-out sometimes needs a full power-off to clear once the cause (usually a blockage) is fixed.
If the air stays stone cold with clean filters and an empty tank, the heater element or its thermal cut-out has failed. On condenser models with a supplementary element, that element is a replaceable part.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine / Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H0024000291A | Fisher & Paykel / Haier condenser dryers | Genuine fit — match your model | $96.95 AUD | Buy now |
For the full no-heat diagnosis, read heat pump dryer not heating, which walks through the same logic in detail.
Airflow or filter error: clean the filters and condenser
Some codes and symbols are the machine telling you, in effect, to clean it. If the air can’t move freely, temperatures climb where they shouldn’t and the dryer stops.
This category almost never needs a part — just maintenance:
- Clean the door lint filter every load. Pull it, clear the lint by hand, rinse if greasy, and dry before refitting.
- Clean the lower condenser filter monthly. Open the flap at the base, remove the foam/mesh filter, rinse it, and let it dry fully.
- Give the machine room to breathe. Pull it a hand’s width off the wall so it can exhaust, and never run it sealed inside a cupboard with no air.
If you clean everything and an airflow-category code persists, the next suspects are the internal fan or a temperature sensor reading high because of a hidden blockage — at which point the sensor section above applies.
An Australian note: 240V, resets, and when to call a technician
A quick note for the Australian market. Our dryers run on 240V mains, so the internal parts — heater, drain pump, sensor — carry mains voltage and deserve respect.
The safest first move for almost any error code is to isolate the machine from power: switch off at the wall and pull the plug, or trip the circuit if it’s hardwired. Leave it off for a full minute, then restore power. This clears many transient faults and safely resets thermal cut-outs once the underlying cause is fixed. Don’t rely on the dryer’s own off button — properly isolate it.
The free checks in this guide — emptying the tank, cleaning filters, clearing the condenser, resetting power — are safe for anyone. The parts, however, are another matter. Swapping a drain pump, temperature sensor, heater element or thermal cut-out means opening the cabinet and working around mains-voltage wiring. That’s a job for a competent person who’s comfortable with it, or for a qualified appliance technician. Around the Northern Beaches, plenty of tradies will happily fit a part you’ve already bought, which keeps the bill down.
Frequently asked questions
What does a water symbol or water error on my dryer mean?
It means the machine has condensed water it can’t get rid of. Nine times out of ten it’s a full water tank or a blocked condenser/pump filter. Empty the tank, clean the filter, and check the drain hose isn’t kinked. If the error keeps returning with everything clean, the drain pump has usually failed.
Are dryer error codes the same across brands?
No. There is no universal code table — F1 on a Beko is not F1 on a Fisher & Paykel. What’s consistent is the symptom category (water, sensor, heating, airflow). Get your exact code from the owner’s manual and the model sticker, work out which category it belongs to, then follow the check for that category.
How do I reset my heat pump or condenser dryer?
Switch it off at the wall and pull the plug (or trip the circuit if hardwired), wait a full 60 seconds, then restore power and restart. This clears many one-off faults and resets thermal cut-outs once the cause is fixed. Always isolate power fully rather than just pressing the off button.
Where do I find the model number and code on my dryer?
The model sticker is usually inside the door opening, around the door seal, or on the back of the cabinet. Your exact error code shows on the display; match it against the code list in your owner’s manual to confirm which system it points to.
My dryer runs but clothes come out damp with no error. Is that a fault?
Often not a hard fault — heat pump dryers run cooler and slower than vented ones, and a partly blocked filter or condenser makes it worse. Clean every filter, empty the tank, and give it room to breathe. If the air stays cold with everything clean, then look at the heater or temperature sensor.
How much is a dryer drain pump or sensor, and how fast can I get one?
A dryer drain pump runs from about $79.95–$93.95 AUD depending on model, and a dryer temperature/exhaust sensor is around $32.95 AUD. Both ship same day from our Sydney warehouse when you order before cut-off. Match the part number to your model sticker before ordering.
Get your dryer back on the job
Most dryer error codes are fixable, and often free. Read the symptom, not just the number: work out whether it’s a water, sensor, heating or airflow fault, do the free check, and isolate power for a minute. If the code survives all that, the part in that category — drain pump, temperature sensor or heater — is almost certainly what you need, and they all ship same day from our Sydney warehouse. Browse the full dryer parts store to grab yours.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
