Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Six faults cover nearly every Fisher & Paykel washing machine problem we see in our Sydney workshop: won’t fill (inlet valve), drum noise on spin (suspension rods or rotor magnets), won’t drain (drain pump), warm wash stays cold (hot inlet valve coil), leak from underneath (drain pump housing or tub seal), and door seal mould on front-loaders. All six are fixable with the right part — and we stock them all for the WH, WA, WL and 9XXXX-A series. Same-day dispatch from Sydney.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
Browse all Fisher & Paykel washing machine parts
Find your model first — it changes the part
Three places to look:
- Inside the lid (top-loaders) — sticker on the inside-front edge of the cabinet.
- Back of the machine — second nameplate riveted to the back panel.
- Inside the detergent drawer (front-loaders) — pull the drawer right out.
Sticker faded? Take a photo of the internals and run it through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder quiz — we identify the model and ship the part same-day.
Quick F&P model decoder
| Prefix | Era | What we stock |
|---|---|---|
| 9XXXX-A (93254-A, 92230-A) | 1995-2010 vintage SmartDrive | Suspension rods, pumps, rotors, lid switches |
| WA series (WA8060G1) | ~2000-2012 SmartDrive top-loaders | Full parts coverage |
| WL series (WL1068P1) | ~2005-2015 large-capacity | Suspension rods, pumps |
| WH series (WH7560J1, WH8560P2) | 2012-present current SmartDrive | Full parts coverage — our biggest range |
| WM / WH1060 etc | Front-loaders (Haier-platform) | Door seals, bearings, control boards |
For WH-series: first two digits = capacity in kg (WH7560 → 7.5kg, WH8560 → 8.5kg). The trailing letter (F1/J1/J2/J3/P1/P2/P3) is the generation. We can usually fit a part across two adjacent generations — confirm by part number, never by capacity alone.
The six faults — and the parts that fix them
1. Won’t fill, or fills slowly → inlet valve
The dual cold/hot inlet valve is the #1 reason older F&P washers stop filling. Solenoid coils fail after years of mineral water; the brass barbs corrode in chlorinated supply.
Quick diagnosis:
– Both taps fully on at the wall? ✓
– Unscrew the inlet hoses at the tap end — check for green slime or fragments in the screen filters.
– Pressure switch hose kinked? (Makes the machine think it’s already full.)
– If filters and hoses are clear, the valve solenoid is the next stop.
The part: Genuine and aftermarket F&P inlet valves in stock for the WH and WA series. 20-minute swap with a screwdriver. Same-day Sydney dispatch.
2. Drum noise during spin → suspension rods (or rotor magnets)
The SmartDrive system has no belt and no gearbox — so spin noise is almost always the four suspension rods that hold the tub. They wear out and the drum starts whacking the cabinet.
The other suspect: unglued rotor magnets. SmartDrive direct-drive motors have small ceramic magnets bonded around the rotor. After 10+ years they can detach — you’ll hear a distinct slap-slap-slap during spin.
Quick diagnosis:
– Lift the lid, push the drum side-to-side. Bouncy and firm = rods OK. Floppy = rods worn.
– During spin, listen for slap-slap-slap = rotor magnets. Steady knocking from underneath = rods.
The part: F&P washing machine suspension rod kit — fits the WA1068, WA7060, WA8060, WA8560 and WL1068 platforms. 45-minute job. Replacement rotors also stocked for the main WH series.
3. Won’t drain → drain pump
F&P uses one drain pump platform across the entire WH7560-WH8560 range. One part covers the WH7560J1/J2/J3, WH7560P1/P2, WH8560F1, WH8560J1/J2/J3 and WH8560P1/P2/P3 — 14 generations of machine.
Quick diagnosis:
1. Tip the machine forward, slide a tray under the front edge.
2. Pull the drain hose off the standpipe, drop it into a bucket. If gravity drains it, the blockage is internal. If not, it’s the standpipe.
3. Pop the bottom access panel, check the pump impeller for coins, hair ties, kids’ socks.
4. Impeller free but pump silent during cycle = pump motor dead.
The part: F&P washing machine drain pump — 30-minute job. Stocked, same-day Sydney dispatch, ships Australia-wide.
While you’re in there: if the machine is 5+ years old and the pump has gone, the drain hose clamp and sump hose are often perished too — worth grabbing both at the same time so you don’t pull the panel off twice. Both stocked alongside the pump.
4. Warm wash stays cold → hot inlet valve coil
Most AU-sold F&P top-loaders are cold-fill only. The “warm” and “hot” cycles work by mixing your tap hot water with cold via the inlet valve — there’s no internal heater to fail. So a cold “warm” cycle is almost always the hot side of the inlet valve has died.
Exception: F&P front-loaders (WM-series) and a few hybrid top-loaders DO have a heater element. For those, no-heat usually means the element itself or the heater thermistor.
The part: Hot-side inlet valves stocked alongside the dual cold/hot units in our F&P parts range.
5. Leaking from the bottom → drain pump housing or tub seal
Front of the machine = door seal or detergent drawer overflow.
Underneath the machine = drain pump housing, sump hose, or tub-to-pump connection.
On SmartDrive top-loaders, a steady leak from the very bottom most often traces to the outer tub seal (where the drive shaft exits the tub). This is a bigger job — worth a tech callout if you’re not confident pulling the tub. For drain-pump leaks (much more common), it’s a swap.
The part: Drain pump housings, sump hoses, and tub seal kits all stocked. Browse F&P washing machine parts or send us a photo via the part finder if you’re not sure.
6. Door seal mould (front-loaders) → seal replacement
Most F&P front-loaders sold after 2014 use the Haier platform, which means Haier-compatible door seals fit them. Many of our F&P/Haier door seals carry both brand markings.
The part: Door seals for the HWM-series and equivalent F&P front-loaders in stock. Search your model number in the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — it’ll match the exact seal.
Browse F&P parts
- Fisher & Paykel drain pump (WH7560 / WH8560 series)
- Fisher & Paykel suspension rod kit (WA / WL series)
- All Fisher & Paykel washing machine parts
Related guides
- Fisher & Paykel WH7560 parts guide
- Fisher & Paykel WH9060 parts guide
- Fisher & Paykel WH8060P3 parts guide
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine making noise
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine not spinning
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine not draining
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine leaking
- Fisher & Paykel washer error codes — how to count the flashes
- WH8560J1 parts and known faults
- WH7560J1 parts and known faults
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
- Fisher Paykel Washing Machine Door Seal H0020300940T WH1060S1 WH1060SG1 WH1160F2 WH1160S1 — $118.85
- FISHER & PAYKEL Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WH1060S1 WH1060P1,WH1260P1,WH1260F — $63.55
- Fisher Paykel Washer Dryer Combo Electromagnetic Valve H0024000405C WD8560F1 — $98.95
- Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine Drain Pump H0024000406A WH1160FG2 WH1060P1 WH1260F1 WH106 — $78.95
FAQs
How do I read the fault code on a Fisher & Paykel washer?
F&P washers flash the fault code through the wash-cycle LED — count the flashes between pauses (three flashes, pause, three flashes = code 3). Match the count to your model’s code list or send it to us via the part finder and we’ll tell you which part it points to.
My WH8560 won’t agitate but spins fine on rinse — what is it?
Almost always the rotor position sensor or the motor control board. Send your model number through the part finder and we’ll identify the exact board.
My SmartDrive is making a slap-slap-slap noise during spin — is it worth fixing?
That’s the rotor magnets coming unglued — we get asked this one almost weekly. It’s fixable with a replacement rotor and the machine often runs another 5+ years afterwards. Replacement rotor costs a fraction of a new machine. Send us your model number through the part finder and we’ll match the exact one.
How do I find my F&P model number if the sticker is unreadable?
Take three clear photos: the agitator, the suspension rods, and the rotor (lift the lid). Send via our contact form. With 20+ years in F&P parts, we can usually ID the model from the internals alone.
Do you stock parts for the old 92XXX-A and 93XXX-A SmartDrives?
Yes — we deliberately keep stock for the Phase 5/6/7 vintage machines (most parts catalogues don’t anymore). Use the part finder with your model number.
Ready to fix it?
Three ways to get the right part:
- Run your model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — fastest. Model in, exact-fit parts out.
- Browse all F&P washing machine parts — if you already know what you need.
- Send us a photo via the contact form — when the model sticker is unreadable. 20+ years of F&P experience usually IDs it on sight.
Order before 12pm AEST → ships from our Sydney warehouse today, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
