Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Australian Electrolux dishwashers report faults as “i” codes — i10 means it will not fill (check the tap and inlet hose filter), i20 means it will not drain (clean the filters and sink spigot, then suspect the drain pump), and i30 means the anti-flood float has tripped: close the tap first. On models without a display the same faults are counted out in beeps or flashes — one flash is i10, two is i20, three is i30 — and on QuickSelect panels the MY TIME bar does the counting. PF is a power-supply dip, not a machine fault; the cycle resumes on its own.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
How an Electrolux dishwasher shows a fault — and why you only ever see the family code
Electrolux codes take the form iXY, but the panel only ever shows the family — i10, i20, i30, i40, i50, i60. The full two-character versions (i41, i53 and so on) are stored in memory and readable only in service mode, so no page and no manual will let you tell them apart from the panel. What your machine shows depends on its display. Models with a numeric display spell out the code. Models without one count it out instead: the cycle-end light flashes one, two, three or four times in a repeating burst, with beeps to match. Newer QuickSelect panels flash the MY TIME selection bar — six intermittent flashes there is the heating family. Older Australian machines with a text display show words instead: OPEN THE TAP is the fill fault, DRAIN BLOCKED is the drain fault, and SERVICE CODE is the anti-flood device. Beam-on-floor models project red for a running cycle and green for finished — only a flashing red beam signals a malfunction.
One more honest wrinkle: several genuine faults are logged silently while the cycle carries on — the temperature sensor and some heating faults among them. So “no code, but the dishes come out cold and wet” is a real fault presentation, not your imagination. A technician can read the stored alarms in service mode.
Electrolux dishwasher codes at a glance
| Code | What it means | Most likely cause | The fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| i10 / i11 | Not filling with water (1 beep or flash on models without a display) | Tap closed or scaled, kinked inlet hose, clogged mesh filter in the hose fitting, low pressure | Usually fixed at the tap. If the valve itself has failed, fit the Electrolux Dishlex Westinghouse Dishwasher Inlet Valve. |
| i20 | Not draining (also shown as F2; 2 beeps or flashes) | Clogged filters and sump, blocked sink spigot or a blanking plug never removed, kinked drain hose, jammed or failed drain pump | Clear filters, spigot and hose first; a dead pump is next — the ELECTROLUX DISHWASHER WATER DRAIN PUMP covers the common freestanding and built-in models. |
| i30 | Anti-flood device tripped — water in the base tray (3 beeps or flashes) | An internal leak, a leaking door seal, over-foaming, an unlevel machine, or a one-off spill at installation | Close the tap first. If it returns after drying out overnight, the leak is real — book service, or run the part finder quiz with your repairer’s diagnosis. |
| i40 | Water level sensing fault (4 beeps or flashes) | Clogged filters or sump, foam confusing the level reading, residual water from a partial blockage | Clean the filters, cut detergent, clear the spigot; a failed sensor is a service diagnosis — part finder quiz. |
| i50 | Wash motor / circulation pump fault (5 flashes) | Debris jamming the impeller, foam loading the pump, a seized motor, or a motor-board fault | Clear the sump and filters first; persistent i50 needs a technician — the sub-codes are current readings only service mode can see. |
| i60 | Heating fault — water too hot or not heating (6 flashes, or the MY TIME bar flashing 6 times) | Inlet water over 60°C, a scaled-up element, foam insulating it, or a failed element or sensor | Check the inlet temperature and descale with a machine-care cycle; an element replacement is model-specific — part finder quiz. |
| i90 | Configuration fault between boards (covers i91–i99) | A power event scrambling the board handshake; a failed display or main board | Disconnect from power for a minimum of two hours — Electrolux’s own reset for this family — then book service if it returns. |
| iC0 | Communication fault between control boards | A loose or damp connector, a flexed door loom, a failed board | Reset once; persistent iC0 is a technician job. |
| iF0 | Water level / over-filling fault (with iF1) | Foam causing repeat top-ups, a passing inlet valve, a siphoning drain hose | Cut detergent and check the hose height; a valve leaking through needs the ELECTROLUX DISHLEX WESTINGHOUSE DISHWASHER INLET VALVE. |
| PF | Power supply out of range — cycle paused | A brownout, an overloaded circuit, a poor connection at the power point | Wait — the cycle resumes by itself once the supply steadies. Plug the machine directly into its own power point. |
These are Australian-confirmed codes. Ignore C1, C2, AL5 and AL6 lists from overseas sites — in Australia the drain fault shows as i20 or F2, nothing else. And if your machine has AirDry, an i80 can mean the auto-opening door mechanism is blocked — check nothing in the cabinetry stops the door popping open about 10 cm, and never push it shut in the two minutes after it opens.
i10 — the machine won’t fill
The set water level was not reached in time, the machine drains itself, and the code appears. Nearly every case is supply-side:
- Open the tap fully and confirm water actually runs from it.
- Run a nearby tap to check household pressure — the machine needs a real flow, and another appliance drawing hard can starve it.
- Close the tap, unscrew the inlet hose and clean the small mesh filter inside the hose connector — scale here is the single most common cause.
- Straighten any kink where the machine was pushed back into its cavity.
- If the hose itself is split or bulging, close the tap, unplug the machine and stop — that is a service visit, not a re-seal.
If the code returns at the first fill of the next cycle with the supply proven good, the inlet valve is the prime suspect — the Electrolux Dishlex Westinghouse Dishwasher Inlet Valve is the matching replacement across the shared Electrolux, Dishlex and Westinghouse platform.
i20 — the machine won’t drain
The most common Electrolux dishwasher code in Australia, and the most DIY-friendly:
- Switch off, scoop out the standing water, then remove and wash the flat, coarse and fine filters and clear the sump under them.
- Refit the filters until they click fully home — a filter sitting proud causes repeat i20s.
- Check the sink spigot for a grease plug, and if the machine is newly installed, confirm the blanking plug was knocked out of the spigot.
- Straighten the drain hose and keep the run inside the height limits in the installation sheet.
- Power off at the wall for 30 seconds, then run a rinse cycle.
Still stopping with water in the base? The drain pump has likely failed or jammed beyond a finger-clear. The ELECTROLUX DISHWASHER WATER DRAIN PUMP suits the common current platform, and the ELECTROLUX DISHWASHER DRAIN PUMP ESL7510RO covers the ESL7510RO built-in. Dishlex twins of these machines use the Dishlex DISHWASHER DRAIN PUMP DSF6105 DSF6105W DSF6105X DSF6306 or, on the 50Hz variant, the DISHLEX DISHWASHER 50HZ DRAIN PUMP DSF6105X DSF6106X — match on the model number in the listing title.
i30 — the anti-flood device has tripped
Water has collected in the base tray and lifted the float; the machine pumps continuously to protect your floor. Close the water tap first — that is the manufacturer’s first instruction. Then check the machine is level, the door seal is clean and uncracked, nothing is deflecting spray out of the door, and the detergent is a dishwasher product (hand dishwashing liquid foams the tub over). If the trip came from a one-off spill at installation, disconnecting power overnight with the tap closed lets the tray dry and the float reset. If three flashes return after that, the leak is real — stop and book service. Do not tip the machine on its side to drain the tray; that spreads water into places it was never meant to be.
i40 — water level sensing
The level sensor could not get a clean reading. Foam and blocked filters cause far more i40s than failed sensors: empty the machine, wash the filters, clear any suds from the sump, cut the detergent dose, and never pre-rinse dishes with hand dish soap. Reset by disconnecting power for about five minutes, then run a normal cycle. A genuinely failed sensor is a service-mode diagnosis.
i50 — wash motor or circulation pump
Everything in the i50 family relates to the wash pump. Before anyone condemns the motor: clear the filters, feel carefully into the sump for glass, bone or a fruit stone that could reach the impeller (glove on), and cut back the detergent. Then run a cycle and listen — grinding, or total silence where the wash hum should be, both point at the pump. If the code returns every cycle, the sub-codes are electrical measurements only a technician can read, so stop there.
i60 — heating
Either the water is too hot coming in or the machine cannot raise its temperature. Two Australian-specific checks first: if the machine is plumbed to hot water, the inlet must not exceed 60°C — hotter supplies trip this code and wreck detergent performance; and in hard-water areas, scale on the element insulates it until it can no longer raise the temperature — run the machine-care cycle empty with a dishwasher descaler, which Electrolux notes descales the element directly. If dishes still come out cold, remember this fault can also be logged silently — mention it when booking so the technician reads the stored alarms.
Codes that aren’t faults
The door swinging itself open about 10 cm near the end of the cycle is AirDry doing its job — never push it shut within two minutes. Water in a brand-new machine is factory test water. A remaining-time display that jumps around is the auto programme recalculating, not a glitch. The machine stopping and starting during a cycle is normal wash strategy. The rinse aid light is a refill prompt. An option light that flashes quickly for a few seconds is a rejected keypress — that one is regularly mistaken for a fault count. A five-minute pause before starting is the water softener recharging its resin. A red beam on the floor is a running cycle; only a flashing red beam is a malfunction. And a cycle light flashing with no start usually means the door has not clicked shut or a delay start is counting down. PF deserves its own mention: it is a supply dip, the cycle resumes on its own, and the fix is the power point, not the dishwasher.
Find the exact part for your model
The model number decides every fitment. Open the door and read the model sticker on the door edge or inner door panel, then match that model against the listing title — every compatible model is printed in it. Not sure? Run the part finder quiz, browse the dishwasher parts store or the Electrolux range, check the error code decoder, or send a photo of the sticker through our contact page and we will match it.
Why does my Electrolux dishwasher beep three times?
Three beeps or three flashes is the anti-flood alarm, i30 — water has collected in the base tray. Close the tap, check for leaks and foam, and if it returns after drying out overnight, book service.
What does i20 mean on an Electrolux dishwasher?
It cannot drain in time. Clean the filters and sump, check the sink spigot and drain hose, then suspect the drain pump. In Australia the same fault can display as F2 on some models.
My dishes come out cold but there’s no error code. Why?
Some heating and sensor faults are logged silently while the cycle continues — the machine simply stops heating. That is a genuine fault presentation; a technician can read the stored alarm in service mode.
Can I read the exact sub-code, like i41 or i53, from the panel?
No. The panel only ever shows the family code. The full two-character codes are stored in memory and read in service mode, which is why chasing sub-code lists online is a dead end.
Do these codes apply to my Dishlex?
Yes — Dishlex is the same Electrolux Group Australia platform. Dishlex models without a display count the same faults in flashes: one for fill, two for drain, three for anti-flood.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
