Appliance Spares
Quick answer: For Hisense fridges and freezers in Australia, the parts that fail most are the evaporator fan motor (freezer fine, fridge warm, or a fan gone noisy or silent), the thermostat on chest freezers, upright freezers and bar fridges, and the defrost timer on older top-mounts. Oz Appliance Spares stocks these in Sydney and dispatches the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). Door seals are not stocked; the sealed system is licensed work. Match the model number on the sticker inside the cabinet, not the fridge’s size or colour.
- K1960962 Hisense Fridge Fan Motor HR6TFF459 HR6CDFF670S HR6CDFF670S HR6CDFF670B HR6TFF459In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Fridge Fan Motor K1870599 HR6BMFF453S HR6BMFF453S HR6FDFF701SW HRBM417SIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- 1063608 Hisense CHEST FREEZER THERMOSTAT, HR6CF206, HR6CF307 0596In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All Hisense washing machine parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Last updated October 2026
September is when a tired Hisense stops hiding it
Your Hisense coped all winter, because a half-seized fan still moved enough air in a 16-degree kitchen. Then the first warm week of spring arrives, the milk is tepid and the freezer is still rock hard. Freezer fine, fridge warm: the classic Hisense complaint, and it is almost never the gas.
Hisense fridges fill Australian rentals and first homes, from HR6TFF top-mounts to HRSBS side-by-sides and HR6CF chest freezers in the garage. Most are worth fixing: the parts are cheap and the swaps are screwdriver jobs. Everything below sits in the Hisense parts range, part of the wider fridge and freezer parts store.
Symptom to part: the Hisense fridge master table
| What you’re seeing | What it usually is | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Freezer cold, fridge warm, on a bottom-mount or French door | Evaporator fan has stopped pushing cold air up into the fridge, or the air damper is stuck | Hisense Fridge Fan Motor HR6BMFF453S HR6FDFF701SW HRBM417S |
 Side-by-side humming away while the fridge side drifts warm | Fan motor seized; the compressor is working with nowhere for the cold to go | Hisense Fridge Fan Motor Suits HRSBS578BW HR6SBSFF566 HR6SBSFF624SW HR6CDFF695GB BCD-556WYBHC4 |
 Ticking or scraping from the back of the freezer, then silence | Fan blades touching ice, or a fan motor on its last legs | Hisense Fridge Fan Motor HR6TFF459 HR6CDFF670S HR6CDFF670B |
 Ice building up on the back wall of the freezer on an older top-mount | Defrost cycle not being called: timer first, then heater and terminator | Hisense Fridge Defrost Timer HR6TFF460 HR6TFF203 |
 Chest freezer running non-stop, or not holding temperature | Thermostat failed, so the compressor never stops or never starts | Hisense CHEST FREEZER THERMOSTAT, HR6CF206, HR6CF307 |
 Bar fridge freezing the drinks, or never getting properly cold | Thermostat | Hisense Fridge Thermostat HRAF242 |
 Upright freezer warming up, or running flat out | Thermostat, once a door left ajar is ruled out | HISENSE UPRIGHT FREEZER THERMOSTAT, RS-11DC4HA, RS-11DC4HNA |
 An F-code or E-code on the display | A sensor or fan-circuit fault; the code says which | Read the Hisense fridge error codes guide first. A fan-circuit code usually ends at a Hisense Fridge Freezer Fan Motor |
Fan motors: the part behind most Hisense “not cooling” calls
A frost-free Hisense has two fans. The evaporator fan behind the rear freezer panel pushes cold air up into the fridge; lose it and the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms. Lose the condenser fan beside the compressor and the whole cabinet struggles.
The test takes thirty seconds. Open the freezer, hold the door switch in and listen. A healthy fan spins up within seconds; silence, a hum with no air, or a rhythmic tick means the fan. If it runs and the fridge is still warm, the air damper is next: see the freezer cold but fridge warm guide or the Hisense fridge not cooling walk-through.
The motor is decided by model family, not by looks:
- Smaller top-mounts and French doors: Hisense Fridge Freezer Fan Motor Suits HR6TFF350S HR6CDFF509, 512, 630
- The larger French doors: Hisense Fridge Fan Motor Suits HR6CDFF695GB BCD-556WYBHC4
Fan motors sit in the $35–90 band and fitting one is a Phillips-head job: unplug, empty the freezer, pull the rear panel, swap the motor. If the coil is a solid block of ice, defrost fully first; a fan that has been chewing through ice may be the victim, not the cause.
Thermostats and sensors: chest freezers, bar fridges and uprights
The simpler cabinets, the HR6CF chest freezers, HRAF bar fridges and manual-defrost uprights, have no control board. A mechanical thermostat with a thin capillary tube switches the compressor, and when it fails the compressor either never stops or never starts while the light still works.
Before buying one, turn the dial fully off, wait a minute, then fully on. If the compressor clicks and starts, the thermostat is fine; if nothing happens, it is the prime suspect. The smaller chest freezers take the Hisense Fridge Thermostat HR6CF146 HR6CF146BD HR6CF206. Thermostats are a $40–70 part. Route the new capillary tube exactly where the old one ran, because the tube position is the calibration.
The frost-free HR6 models use electronic sensors instead; a drifted one shows as an F-code or one compartment a few degrees off. We do not list a sensor for every Hisense model, so send the model number for an honest yes or no.
Defrost parts: timer, heater and terminator
Frost-free means the freezer warms its own coil every eight hours or so, using a timer (older top-mounts) or the control board to call the defrost, a heater under the coil, and a terminator that cuts the heater at temperature. When one fails, ice grows on the back wall, airflow chokes, and the fridge warms, sometimes with a fan grinding gravel.
On the HR6TFF460 and HR6TFF203 top-mounts the timer is a cheap first swap. Heaters and terminators are not held for every Hisense model; send the model number and we will check. A full 24-hour defrost with the doors open buys a week or two and confirms the diagnosis. The Hisense fridge building up ice guide walks through it.
What we don’t stock, and what nobody should DIY
Door seals. We do not stock Hisense fridge door seals, and would rather say so than let you order something that is not there; chase a split seal through the manufacturer’s service channel. Door hinges and handles are thin on the ground too, so send the model for a yes or no.
The sealed system (compressor, gas, coil) is licensed refrigeration work in Australia. If the compressor runs, both fans run, the coil is clean and dry, and the freezer still will not get below about minus 10, stop there. No part on this page fixes that, and on an older Hisense the honest sum usually says new fridge.
Where the model sticker is on a Hisense fridge, and how to match
Open the fridge door and look at the left-hand wall, about halfway down; if it is not there, pull the crisper out and look behind it, or check the rear of the cabinet, top left. The 30-second Hisense model number guide has photos.
The model number is the string that starts with HR: HR6TFF459, HR6BMFF453S, HRSBS578BW, HR6CF206. Some stickers add a BCD- code; either will find your parts. Use the whole string including the letters on the end: the S, B or W is usually the finish, and the same fan motor often covers HR6CDFF670S and HR6CDFF670B, but not always. Search the full number on the site or browse the Hisense models hub. If your model is not listed, or two listings both look right, send the model number through the contact page and we check before you order.
DIY or repairer?
A fan motor or thermostat is a $35–90 part and an hour with a screwdriver. A repairer typically charges $100–165 before parts, so a DIY swap saves a couple of hundred dollars.
Get a repairer when the fault is intermittent, when the code points at the main control board (boards are fitted after diagnosis, never on a guess), or when the symptoms say sealed system, which means a licensed refrigeration tradie, full stop.
Unplug before every job: pull the plug, not just the switch. The start capacitor beside the compressor can hold a charge, so leave that corner alone. The fridge spare parts in Australia pillar covers every other brand.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my Hisense freezer cold but the fridge warm?
The fridge gets its cold from the freezer through a fan and a duct. If the evaporator fan has stopped or the air damper is stuck, the freezer stays cold and the fridge warms. Hold the door switch in and listen: silence or a tick means the fan motor.
Do you sell Hisense fridge door seals?
No. We do not stock Hisense fridge door seals and will not list one we cannot send; take the model number to the manufacturer’s service channel. We do stock the fan motors, thermostats and defrost timers.
Can I fit a Hisense fridge fan motor myself?
Yes, on most models. Unplug the fridge, empty the freezer, undo the rear freezer panel and swap the motor. The only real trap is ordering the wrong one, so match the model number, not the look of the old part.
Which Hisense fridge parts do you stock in Australia?
Fan motors for the top-mount, bottom-mount, French door and side-by-side families, thermostats for chest freezers, upright freezers and bar fridges, and the defrost timer for older top-mounts. Sensors, heaters, hinges and handles are checked model by model. Stock ships from Sydney the day you order (12pm cut-off).
My Hisense fridge shows an F-code. Which part is it?
It depends on the code. Hisense separates fan-circuit faults from sensor and defrost faults, so read the error code guide first. A fan-circuit code usually ends at a fan motor; a sensor code needs the model checked before anything is ordered.
Take the model number off the sticker inside the fridge and search it on the site. If it is not listed, or you are not sure which listing is yours, send it through the contact page and we will match it before you order. Dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
