Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A loud rumble or grinding on spin, plus water leaking from under the drum, almost always means worn tub bearings and a failed lip seal. The Hisense Lip Seal & Bearings Kit (SKU 127234345333) fits the HWFS1015E, costs $66.95, and ships same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.
Last updated June 2026
When a Hisense front loader starts sounding like a jet engine on the final spin, or you find a rusty puddle under the machine that isn’t coming from the door, the cause is usually the same pair of parts: the rear tub bearings and the lip seal that protects them. Water sneaks past a worn lip seal, washes the grease out of the bearings, and the bearings grind themselves to pieces. Hisense washers seal the outer tub at the factory, the same as most modern front loaders, so this is one of the bigger laundry repairs. The parts are cheap though, and on a machine worth keeping it’s well worth doing. Below I’ll show you how to confirm it’s the bearings and seal, which kit fits your model, and how the job goes start to finish.
How do I know it’s the bearings and lip seal?
This failure has a recognisable signature. Work through these checks before you buy anything:
- Spin the empty drum by hand. Open the door, grab the drum and spin it firmly. A healthy machine glides almost silently. If you hear a dry grinding, rumbling or gravelly noise as it turns, the bearings are gone.
- Check for drum play. Grab the drum at the top and try to rock it in and out (toward you and away). A small amount of give is normal. Obvious knocking or movement against the bearing means they’ve worn loose.
- Listen on the spin cycle. Worn bearings get louder as the drum speeds up: a deep rumble or roar that peaks at high-speed spin, not a rattle that comes and goes.
- Look for water under the machine. Pull the washer out and check the floor and the underside. Bearing and seal leaks show up as water, often rust-coloured, pooling beneath the drum rather than at the door. Rusty water is the tell-tale. It’s water that has worked past the lip seal and corroded the bearing.
The key distinction is that this is not the door gasket. If water is dripping from the front door boot while it runs, that’s a different repair (the door seal). Bearing and lip seal leaks come from underneath, behind the drum. If you’ve got the grinding noise and rust water under the machine, you’ve confirmed it. You need the lip seal and bearings kit.
Which Hisense bearing & lip seal kit fits my model?
Hisense uses a matched kit that includes the lip seal and both tub bearings together. You replace them as a set, because once the tub is split there’s no reason to do anything less. Match your model number (printed on the sticker inside the door opening or on the rear panel) to the table below.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine/Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 127234345333 | Hisense HWFS1015E | Genuine kit | $66.95 | |
| Lip seal & bearings kit | Hisense HWF3S8514, HWFS7514S | Genuine kit | $66.95 | Find your part |
If your machine is the popular 10kg HWFS1015E, the kit you want is the first kit in the table above, at $66.95. It includes the lip seal plus both bearings sized for that tub. Owners of the HWF3S8514 or HWFS7514S need the companion kit, also $66.95. Both kits are genuine Hisense fitment, so the seal lip profile and bearing dimensions match the original parts exactly. That matters, because an undersized or mismatched bearing will fail again within months. Always confirm the part against your model sticker before ordering. If you can’t find your model in the list above, run it through our part finder and we’ll match it for you.
How to replace the bearings and lip seal, step by step
Be honest with yourself before you start. This is a 2 to 3 hour job that means splitting the outer tub and pressing bearings in and out. It’s a real mechanical repair, not a five-minute swap. If you’re handy with tools and willing to take your time, here’s how it goes.
Tools you’ll need: socket set and spanners, screwdrivers, a bearing or seal puller (or a drift and hammer), a block of wood, silicone grease, and ideally a second pair of hands to lift the tub.
Safety first: unplug the machine at the wall and turn off the water taps before you touch anything. Drain any remaining water from the filter at the bottom front.
- Pull the machine out and give yourself room to lay it on its side or back. Take photos with your phone at every stage. You’ll thank yourself during reassembly.
- Remove the top panel, then the front panel. Take off the door boot clamp and ease the door seal back (or remove it), then undo the detergent drawer and control panel as needed to free the front.
- Disconnect the drum. Remove the counterweights, the shock absorbers and suspension springs, the drive belt and motor, and the heater, then unclip the wiring and hoses. Mark and photograph every connector.
- Lift the outer tub out of the cabinet and set it on a bench. This is the heavy, awkward part, so get help.
- Split the outer tub. Undo the clips or bolts around the seam to separate the two tub halves, then withdraw the inner stainless drum and spider.
- Drive out the old lip seal and bearings from the rear tub housing. Knock the bearings out evenly with a drift, working around the race so they come out square.
- Press in the new bearings from the kit (drift only on the outer race), then fit the new lip seal. Apply a thin film of silicone grease to the seal lip so it beds in without burning out.
- Reassemble in reverse. Refit the drum, close up the tub, and reconnect everything using your photos. Re-seat the door boot and clamp carefully so you don’t create a new leak.
- Test. Reconnect water and power, run a short cycle empty, and check for noise on spin and any water underneath before you push it back into place.
Genuine vs compatible: what should I buy?
For tub bearings and a lip seal, fitment is everything. The kits we stock (127234345333 and 127234348644) are genuine Hisense kits, sized to the exact tub and shaft tolerances of your machine. A bearing that’s even slightly off-spec, or a seal with the wrong lip profile, will let water through again and you’ll be back inside the tub within a season. The labour here is hours, not minutes, so it’s false economy to gamble on an unknown-fit part to save a few dollars on a $66.95 kit. Buy the genuine kit, do it once, and the machine runs quietly for years.
Should I DIY this or call a technician?
This is the honest part. Splitting the tub is the hardest common front-loader repair there is, and a technician will typically charge a couple of hours’ labour on top of the part. Use the 50% repair rule: if the total cost to fix (parts plus any labour) comes to more than half the price of a comparable new machine, don’t do it. Put the money toward a replacement instead. A genuine kit is only $66.95, so for most machines a DIY repair sits well under that line and is clearly worth it. If you’re paying a tech, add their quote to the part cost and run the same maths. And if you’re not confident pressing bearings, or you don’t have a second person to lift the tub, getting a tech to fit your genuine kit is a perfectly sensible call.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
Frequently asked questions
How much is the Hisense bearing and lip seal kit?
The genuine Hisense Lip Seal & Bearings Kit is $66.95. One kit fits the HWFS1015E, and a companion kit fits the HWF3S8514 and HWFS7514S, both at the same $66.95 price.
Is this a genuine Hisense part?
Yes. Both kits are genuine Hisense fitment, with the bearings and lip seal sized to the exact tub tolerances of your model, so they seat and seal like the originals.
Will it fit my Hisense washing machine?
One kit fits the HWFS1015E, and the other fits the HWF3S8514 and HWFS7514S — each listing names its models in the title. Check your model number on the sticker inside the door or on the rear panel, and if you’re unsure use our part finder.
How long does delivery take?
We dispatch same-day from our Sydney warehouse on orders placed before the daily cut-off, so most Australian addresses receive the kit within a few business days.
Can I replace the bearings myself?
You can if you’re mechanically confident, but be realistic. It’s a 2 to 3 hour job that involves splitting the outer tub and pressing bearings in and out, ideally with a helper to lift the tub. If that’s beyond you, have a technician fit the genuine kit.
Is the leak the door seal or the bearings?
If water drips from the front door while running, that’s the door gasket. If you get a grinding noise on spin and water, often rusty, pooling under the machine, that’s the lip seal and bearings.
Don’t keep running a Hisense washer that’s grinding on spin. Every cycle wears the bearings further and risks the drum seizing. If you’ve confirmed the noise and the leak underneath, the genuine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit ($66.95) for the HWFS1015E is in stock and ready to ship same-day from our Sydney warehouse. Not sure which kit your model needs? Browse the full washing machine parts store or run your model through the part finder quiz.
