Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Door seal, door gasket, bellows, boot and rubber ring are five names for the same part — the flexible rubber cuff between the drum and the door of a front loader. Unlike belts or pumps, seals are close to model-specific: the drum diameter, the drain port position and the retaining band all have to match. So the model number does the work here, not the brand. Expect roughly $44 to $89, versus $200 to $450 for the same job done for you.
Which door seal is listed for your model? We now have a models-and-price guide per brand: Bosch, Fisher & Paykel, Haier, Hisense, LG, Samsung. Each one lists every washing machine model we stock a door seal for, with the price band.
Last updated August 2026
First, the naming — because it costs people money
If you have searched for this part you will have met all of these words, often on the same page:
- Door seal — the plain English name, and the one most Australians use.
- Door gasket — the same part, the term the manufacturers’ parts lists tend to use.
- Bellows — the engineering name, from the concertina folds that let the drum move against a fixed door.
- Boot — mostly American usage, and common in repair videos.
- Rubber ring, door rubber, door cuff — informal, and the ones people type when they don’t know the proper word.
They are all one part. It is worth saying plainly, because searching for the wrong one of the five is a common reason people conclude nobody stocks the seal for their machine.
What the seal actually has to match
This is the part where a seal differs from most other spares. A drive belt is defined by two numbers and covers dozens of machines. A door seal is a moulded three-dimensional shape, and it has to match your drum, not just your brand.
| What has to match | Why it matters | How to check it |
|---|---|---|
| Drum opening diameter | The seal has to sit on the tub lip under tension. A few millimetres out and it will not seat or will pull off under load. | Given by the model number — don’t measure and guess |
| Drain port position | Many seals have a small drain or recirculation port that must line up with the tub. Wrong position means water sits in the fold. | Look at the old seal before you remove it |
| Retaining band type | Some use a spring band, others a screw-clamp band. Reusing the wrong one causes leaks. | Look for a spring loop or a screw at the front band |
 Capacity variant | The same badge and series often has a different seal for the 7.5kg and 10kg versions — one digit apart in the part number. | Match the full model number, not the family name: the Hisense first seal listing and second seal listing are not interchangeable — see the comparison |
That last row is the trap, and it is worth a moment. Two Hisense washers that look identical in a laundry can take two different seals, distinguished only by a digit at the end of the part number. It is not carelessness on the manufacturer’s part — the drums genuinely differ — but it does mean the model sticker is the only reliable source.
Where to find your model number
On a front loader the model sticker is almost always in one of two places: on the rim of the door opening, visible when the door is open, or on the rear panel. Some brands put a second sticker behind the filter flap at the bottom front.
Photograph it. You will want it again, and a photo beats a number scribbled on a receipt. If your sticker has worn away, our complete door seal replacement guide covers what to do next.
Seals we stock, by badge
A sample across the brands, so you can see the range and the naming in practice. Match the model codes in each listing against your sticker:
- Fisher & Paykel — the seal for WH1260F1, WH1260F2 and WH1160F2, and the 11kg Series 9 seal for WH1160FG2.
- Hisense — the two that catch people out: the first seal listing and the second seal listing — open each and match the model number on your sticker against the listing title.
- Beko — WMB651441L and WMY7046LB2, plus a second gasket for the WMY7046LB2.
- CHiQ — WFL85T48W2 and WFL8TOL52W.
- Esatto — EFLW9002B.
- Solt — 9kg GGSFLW900B and 8kg GGSFLW80.
- Stirling — STR-FLW75 and the 10kg STR-FLW10W.
- Euromaid — the WMD107 washer-dryer combo seal.
- InAlto — IFLW600 and IFLW50 and IFLW60.
- Technika — T75E1200FL-2 and T75E1200FL-5.
The full range, including the brands not listed above, is on the door gasket and seal page. If your badge is missing, that does not mean the part is — several Australian brands share a platform, so send us the model number and we’ll check what matches.
Before you replace it: is the seal actually the problem?
Three faults get blamed on the seal. Only one of them is the seal.
Black mould in the folds. Very common, and usually not a reason to replace anything. The rubber is stained, not perished. Our guide on removing mould from a door seal covers what actually shifts it. Replace the seal only if the rubber has gone hard, cracked, or torn — if it is merely discoloured, cleaning is the answer.
Leaking from the door. Often the seal, and usually visible: a split at the bottom of the fold where a coin or an underwire has worn through, or a section that has gone stiff and no longer presses against the glass. Check the leaking-from-the-door guide to confirm before ordering.
Water on the floor but a dry seal. Not the seal. Look at the drain hose, the pump filter housing and the tub-to-pump hose instead.
Fitting a new seal
It is a fiddly job rather than a difficult one, and it is genuinely a low-voltage, low-risk job compared with most appliance repairs — no mains connections are involved if you unplug the machine first.
The outer band comes off first (spring band: hook it off with a flat screwdriver, carefully, and mind your fingers — those springs carry real tension). Then the seal peels forward off the front panel lip. The inner band is the harder one, usually a screw clamp reached from inside the drum opening. Note the position of any drain port before you pull the old one clear.
Fitting the new seal is the reverse, with two tips that save an hour: work the inner lip on all the way round before you tension anything, and use a smear of soapy water rather than force. Full walkthrough here: how to replace a front-loader door seal.
Brand-specific versions, if yours is covered: Samsung, Bosch, Fisher & Paykel and Hisense.
Making the next one last longer
Seals fail early for predictable reasons, and all of them are avoidable. Leave the door ajar between washes so the fold dries. Wipe the bottom of the fold occasionally — that is where water, lint and detergent collect. Check pockets for coins and keys, and use a laundry bag for underwired bras, because a loose wire in the fold will saw through a seal in a season. And go easy on the detergent: excess residue keeps the rubber permanently damp.
What it costs either way
A front loader door seal is typically a $44 to $89 part. A repairer commonly charges $100 to $165 just to attend and diagnose before parts and labour, with a full washing machine repair usually landing between $200 and $450 — and a seal is a slow job, so it tends toward the upper end. Doing it yourself over an afternoon keeps most of that.
Frequently asked questions
Is a door seal the same as a door gasket, bellows or boot?
Yes — all five names describe the same rubber cuff between the drum and the door on a front loader. Manufacturers’ parts lists tend to say gasket, repair videos often say boot or bellows, and most Australians say door seal.
Can I use a seal from another brand if it looks the same?
Very rarely. Unlike belts and pumps, seals are close to model-specific — the drum diameter, drain port position and retaining band all have to match. Match your model number. If your brand isn’t listed, send us the number and we’ll check whether a shared-platform seal fits.
My seal is black with mould. Do I need a new one?
Usually not. Mould stains the rubber without damaging it, and cleaning normally restores it. Replace the seal only if the rubber is hard, cracked, split or torn — staining alone isn’t a reason.
Water is on the floor but the seal looks fine. What else could it be?
Look at the drain hose behind the machine, the pump filter housing at the front, and the tub-to-pump hose inside. A leak that only appears during drain or spin usually isn’t the door seal at all.
How long does replacing a door seal take?
For a first attempt, allow a couple of hours. It’s fiddly rather than difficult — the spring retaining bands take patience, and working the new seal onto the tub lip is easier with soapy water than with force. Unplug the machine at the wall first.
Bottom line: five names, one part, and a fitment that depends on your model number rather than your badge. Send your model number through the part finder and we’ll match the seal to your machine.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
