
Quick answer: For LG owners whose washer has stopped doing one job. WF-T top loaders: the clutch assembly (washes, won’t spin). WTG and WTS top loaders: suspension rods and the drain pump. WD, WV and WVC front loaders: the door seal, the lip seal and bearing kit, the spider shaft, the door interlock. All stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). What matters is the model number on the sticker, matched exactly as LG printed it.
Last updated September 2026
LG washing machine parts by symptom
The WF-T750 has washed and drained and the basket is sitting there full of wet towels, barely turning. The WV5-1408W sounds like a jet on final approach at 1,200 rpm. The WTG8521 has walked across the laundry and stopped on UE. Three different machines. Find your symptom, then the part.
Everything here sits in the LG parts range, inside the wider washing machine parts store.
WF-T top loaders: the clutch, and the two checks before you buy it
A WF-T fails one way. It fills, agitates and drains, then the basket won’t spin or turns so lazily the load comes out dripping. That is the clutch assembly under the tub, which hands the drive from the agitator to the basket. A top loader that washes but won’t spin is a very effective way to soak a towel; it is not a machine that needs replacing.
It is the big-ticket part, in the $130–160 band, so check two things first:
- The motor runs. If the agitator moves on wash, the motor is fine. If it hums and nothing moves, or the display shows LE, start with the LE locked-motor checks.
- The belt is on and not glazed. Unplug, tape the lid, tip the machine back and look at the belt between the motor and the pulley. A snapped or glazed belt gives the same weak spin for a fraction of the cost.
Motor good, belt good: it is the clutch. Two are listed and they are not interchangeable: the one in the table, and the LG Washing Machine Clutch Assembly WF-T552C, WF-T552H, WF-T556 for the smaller machines. Search the model exactly as printed, hyphen included. Fitting takes about an hour.
WTG and WTS top loaders: suspension rods and the pump
Banging, walking, UE on every load. The tub hangs on four suspension rods. Worn rods let it swing wide on spin, the cabinet hammers and UE shows even on a level floor with a normal load. Level the machine and lock the feet; if it still walks, replace all four rods together, not one.
Won’t drain, OE, wet clothes. Check the outlet hose and pump housing for coins first. If the pump is silent, or hums without moving water, it’s the pump: a $30–45 part and a half-hour job from underneath. FE (overfilling) and a machine that won’t fill are inlet-valve territory, covered in the FE overfilling guide and the not-filling guide. The WTG and WTS top loader parts guide covers the rest of the family.
Front loaders: door seals by series
LG’s front loaders split by prefix, and the seal differs by series. WD is the older range (WD11020D, WD14022D6), WV3 to WV7 the recent mid-range (WV5-1408W, WV7-1409W), WV9 and WV10 the big-drum flagships, WVC the washer-dryer combo (WVC5-1410W) and WXL the newest. The WV series parts guide covers the differences.
A seal fails by splitting in the fold, growing black mould no vinegar soak will shift, or losing a chunk to a bra wire. WV5, WV6 and WV9 owners have theirs in the table. The others:
- WV3 and WV7, and the WD1275A1: LG Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket WD1275A1 WV3-1208W WV5-1208W … WV7-1408W WV7-1409W
- WVC5 combos: LG Washing Machine Door Seal WVC5-1409W WVC5-1410W
- Older WD machines: LG Washing Machine Door Seal Gasket Suit Models: WD10020D WD11020D WD12020D … WD-1433RD, WD14022D6, WD14700RD
Seals run $40–90 by series, and the LG door seal replacement guide covers the spring clip and fold direction that catch people out.
Bearings and spider shafts: the roar on spin
A rumble on spin that grows over a few months is worn drum bearings. Rock the inner drum: side-to-side play confirms it. On the WV machines the lip seal and bearing kit is the whole job; WV3 to WV7 owners have theirs in the table, and the WV9 and WV10 take the LG Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings Kit WV9-1408B, WV9-1409B, WV9-1409W, WV9-1410B … WV10-1410B, WV10-1410W, WWT-1209FGB.
On the older WD machines the aluminium spider that carries the drum corrodes, an arm cracks, and the drum drops onto the bearings. Bearings alone under a weak spider are money wasted, so do both. The kit in the table covers the WD11020D generation; earlier WD-8013F and WD-1015FB machines have their own, and the spider shaft and bearing kit guide tells you which one your WD takes. Kits run $50–140.
dE on the display: the door lock
dE means the machine can’t confirm the door is shut. Check for a sleeve caught in the seal or a handle that has lost its spring first. If the door closes properly and still won’t lock, or won’t release, the interlock has failed. Two are listed: the one in the table, and the LG Washing Machine Door Interlock Switch WD-1247RD WD-1248RD for the RD series. The dE error guide walks the checks, and the WD14030D6 dE and door handle guide covers the handle kit when the latch itself is the problem. Interlocks are $30–40, two screws and a plug.
Where the model sticker is on an LG, and how to match it
Top loaders: lift the lid and look at the cabinet rim under it; WF-T machines often carry a second sticker on the back panel. Front loaders: open the door and look at the cabinet rim inside the door opening. The model is the line starting WF-T, WTG, WTS, WD, WV, WVC or WXL.
Two LG quirks. The hyphen matters: LG prints WF-T750 with one and WD11020D without, and the site search matches what’s printed, so type it exactly. The suffix matters too: include the last letter (W for white, B for black steel). Search the full model on the site or browse the LG models pages. The find-your-model page shows where stickers hide, or send the model number through the contact page and we’ll check the part before you order.
DIY or repairer?
A repairer’s call-out and diagnosis in most Australian cities runs $100–165 before any part. On a pump or an interlock, doing it yourself is the whole saving. Door seals are DIY for anyone patient with a spring clip. The WF-T clutch is DIY if you’re happy tipping the machine and working on the floor; the part costs the same either way.
Bearings and spider kits mean pulling the whole drum out, a full afternoon with a helper. If that isn’t you, buy the kit here, hand it to a repairer and pay for labour only. A burning smell, a tripped safety switch or a control board that has been through a power surge: unplug it and get someone in. Boards are fitted after diagnosis, never on a guess.
Frequently asked questions
Q: My LG top loader washes but won’t spin. Is it always the clutch?
A: On the WF-T family it usually is, but check the belt and confirm the motor runs on agitate first. A slipping belt gives the same lazy spin; a motor fault shows LE.
Q: Which LG front loader door seal do I need?
A: WD, WV5, WV9 and WVC5 all take different seals. Read the full model from the sticker inside the door rim and search it; if two listings come up, send us the model and we’ll tell you which.
Q: Does the site search need the hyphen in WF-T?
A: Yes. Type the model as printed on the sticker, hyphen included, and the right clutch comes up.
Q: Why does my LG top loader bang on spin and stop with UE?
A: On WTG and WTS models it is usually worn suspension rods letting the tub swing. Level it and lock the feet; if it still walks with a normal load, replace all four rods.
Q: How quickly will LG parts arrive?
A: Parts are stocked on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and dispatched the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Find the model sticker and search the model number exactly as LG printed it. Not sure? Send it through the contact page and we’ll match the part before you order. Everything above is dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
Appliance Spares

WF-T top loader washes but won’t spin, or spins weakly
WTG top loader bangs, walks or stops on UE
WTG won’t drain, OE on the display
WV5 or WV6 drips at the door, mould in the fold
The same on a WV9
WV roars on spin, drum has play
Older WD roars and clunks when you rock the drum
dE, door won’t lock or release




