Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common faults on the Fisher & Paykel DE8060P1 and DE8060P2 condenser dryers are a worn drive belt ($23.95), a noisy rear drum bearing ($23.95), worn front drum guides ($30.90 for a pair), and a failed heater ($96.95). When a drum is noisy or the belt has worn, the tension wheel ($16.55) should be replaced in the same job. All are in-stock parts that ship from Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
Drive Belt — $23.95 ·
Drum Bearing — $23.95 ·
Front Drum Guides (2 pack) — $30.90 ·
Tension Wheel — $16.55 ·
Heater — $96.95 ·
Exhaust Sensor — $32.95 ·
Motor Capacitor — $17.55 ·
Condensate Pump — $79.55 ·
Not sure which part? Use the Part Finder
Common faults on the Fisher & Paykel DE8060P1 and DE8060P2
The Fisher & Paykel DE8060P1 and DE8060P2 are condenser dryers — instead of blowing damp air out a vent, they extract the moisture into water that drains away or is pumped out. That design adds a few components a vented dryer never has: a condensate pump, an exhaust temperature sensor, and a heater assembly. Combine those with the usual rotating wear items — drive belt, rear drum bearing, front drum guides, and the tension wheel that keeps the belt tight — and you have a machine where nearly every common fault maps to an affordable, replaceable part.
One thing we see constantly with this model: the rotating wear parts fail together. A machine that has worn its belt has usually also worn the tension wheel and the front drum guides, because they all age at the same rate. If the drum is noisy or the belt is due, it is worth replacing belt, tension wheel, guides, and rear bearing in one open-the-cabinet session — the combined parts cost is still under $100. Before ordering, confirm your exact model from the model sticker, usually found around the door opening. Most parts here also suit the DE8060P3 and DC8060P1 from the same family.
| Part | Symptom | Price | Link |
|---|---|---|---|
 Drive belt | Drum not turning while the motor runs; squeal or slap from inside the cabinet; clothes cold and wet after a full cycle | $23.95 | Buy drive belt |
 Rear drum bearing | Rumble or grind from the back of the machine, louder under load; drum movement at the rear | $23.95 | Buy drum bearing |
 Front drum guides (pair) | Scraping or squeaking from the front of the drum; fine grey dust around the door rim; drum rubbing as it turns | $30.90 | Buy front drum guides |
 Tension wheel | Belt squeal; belt wearing unevenly or coming loose; chirping that speeds up with the drum | $16.55 | Buy tension wheel |
 Heater | Drum turns but the air stays cold; cycle runs forever and clothes come out damp and cool | $96.95 | Buy heater |
 Exhaust sensor | Dryer stopping early or running far too long; erratic sensor drying; clothes inconsistently dry between loads | $32.95 | Buy exhaust sensor |
 Motor capacitor | Hum but no drum movement at the start of a cycle; motor needing a “push start”; dryer tripping out shortly after starting | $17.55 | Buy motor capacitor |
 Condensate pump | Water not being pumped away; water warning mid-cycle; water pooling under the machine | $79.55 | Buy condensate pump |
Diagnosis guide – Fisher & Paykel DE8060P1 / DE8060P2
- Cold air is the heater — confirm before anything else. If the drum turns normally but the air inside never gets warm, the heater assembly is the prime suspect on this family. Our Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer not heating guide walks through confirming it before you order.
- Spin the drum by hand. No resistance means the drive belt is off or snapped. A hum from the motor with no drum movement when you press Start — but a drum that turns freely by hand — points instead to the motor run capacitor, a cheap and common fix.
- Locate any noise front or rear. Scraping or squeaking at the front of the drum, often with fine grey dust at the door rim, means the front drum guides have worn through. A deeper rumble from the rear is the drum bearing. A rhythmic chirp that speeds up with the drum is the tension wheel.
- Water where it shouldn’t be is the condensate system. A condenser dryer turns moisture into water that must be pumped away. If water pools under the machine or the dryer stops with a water warning, clean the condenser and check the reservoir first; if it recurs, the condensate pump has failed.
- Erratic drying times point to the exhaust sensor. If loads randomly stop early or run absurdly long — and the lint filter and condenser are clean — the exhaust temperature sensor is misreporting, and the machine can no longer judge when clothes are dry.
Fitting the parts yourself
The rotating wear parts — belt, tension wheel, front drum guides, and rear bearing — are all reachable once the cabinet is open, and none of them require pressing or special tools. Because getting the cabinet open is most of the labour, this is the machine where the “do it all at once” approach pays off most: fitting all four rotating parts in one session takes little longer than fitting one, and resets every wear point together. Take photos of the belt routing around the motor and tension wheel before you disturb anything.
The heater, exhaust sensor, capacitor, and condensate pump are each individual component swaps — unplug, unscrew, replace. Always unplug the dryer from the wall before opening the cabinet, and if a repair involves the heater wiring and you are not confident, have a licensed technician fit the part — the parts prices above mean the repair is economical either way.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my Fisher & Paykel DE8060 not heating?
The heater assembly is the most common cause on the DE8060P1 and DE8060P2: the drum tumbles, the cycle runs, but the air stays cold and clothes come out damp. The heater listed above is the genuine replacement. See the full diagnosis in our condenser dryer heater replacement guide.
What is the scraping noise at the front of the drum?
Worn front drum guides. The front edge of the drum rides on small guide bearings, and when they wear through, the drum scrapes and leaves fine grey dust around the door rim. They are sold as a pair and should be replaced as a pair — and if they have worn, check the belt and tension wheel while the cabinet is open.
Should I replace the tension wheel when I replace the belt?
Yes. The tension wheel is what keeps the belt tight, and it ages at the same rate as the belt. Fitting a new belt over a worn tension wheel is the most common reason a “fixed” dryer starts squealing again within months. At $16.55 it is cheap insurance in the same job.
Why is there water under my condenser dryer?
Unlike a vented dryer, a condenser dryer collects the moisture from your clothes as liquid water. If that water is not being pumped away, it ends up on the floor. Clean the condenser and reservoir first; if the pooling returns, replace the condensate pump. Our Fisher & Paykel dryer not draining guide covers the checks in order.
Is the DE8060P1 or DE8060P2 worth repairing?
Almost always. These are well-built machines, and the entire set of rotating wear parts — belt, tension wheel, front guides, rear bearing — costs under $100 combined. Even the dearest common part, the heater, is a fraction of the cost of a comparable new condenser dryer.
Related
- Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer not heating — diagnosis
- Condenser dryer heater replacement guide
- Fisher & Paykel dryer not draining — condensate pump guide
- Which dryer belt fits my model?
- Dryer takes too long to dry — causes in order
- Haier HDY-M40 dryer parts — common faults and fixes
- Browse all DE8060P1 parts
- Browse all DE8060P2 parts
- Part Finder Quiz — enter your model number for matched results
Ready to fix it?
- Confirm your model from the model sticker — check around the door opening.
- Note the symptom: cold air, noise at the front or rear, water underneath, or a drum that won’t turn.
- Select the matching part from the table above — and if a rotating part has worn, consider doing belt, tension wheel, guides, and bearing together. Use the Part Finder if you’re unsure.
- Add to cart at ozappliancespares.com.au — orders placed before the daily cut-off ship same day from Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
