
Quick answer: If your Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer runs a full cycle but the clothes come out damp and cold, the heater element has almost always failed. On the DE/DC8060 series (and the Haier-built equivalents) it’s a $95–$110 part and a 1–2 hour DIY job. A new condenser dryer is many hundreds of dollars, so replacing the element is well worth it.
The part that fixes this
- Fisher Paykel Haier Condenser Dryer Heater Suits DE8060P3 DC8060P1 DE8060P2 DE8060P2 DE8060P1 HD80-01 HDHP90AN
- Fisher Paykel Condenser Dryer Heater DC8060P3, DE8060P1, DE8060P2
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by Fisher &Amp; Paykel model number.
Last updated September 2026
Fisher & Paykel condenser dryer heater — H0024000291A · find your model
Why the dryer runs but stays cold
A condenser dryer tumbles and times the cycle even when it makes no heat, so a dead element looks like a working machine that simply doesn’t dry. The heater is the usual culprit, but a couple of other faults mimic it:
| Cause | How to spot it |
|---|---|
| Burnt-out heater element | Cycle runs full length, drum air stays cold, clothes still damp |
| Tripped thermal cut-out | No heat after a hot, lint-clogged run — often paired with a blocked filter |
| Blocked lint filter / condenser | Some heat early then nothing; airflow choked, machine overheats and cuts out |
| Faulty thermostat / sensor | Intermittent heat, or stops heating part-way through |
| Control board fault | Erratic behaviour with error codes — rule the element out first |
Confirm it’s the heater
- Clean the lint filter and empty the water tank, then run a short cycle — rule out a simple airflow block before pulling anything apart.
- Mid-cycle, feel the air inside the drum. Cold air through a full run points squarely at the element or its thermal cut-out.
- Unplug, access the element and check it for continuity with a multimeter — an open circuit confirms a burnt-out element.
- While you’re there, check the thermal cut-out on the heater housing — if that has tripped open, clear the airflow blockage that caused it before refitting.
Don’t skip airflow: a clogged filter or condenser is what kills most heater elements. Clean both every few washes so the new element doesn’t cook itself the same way.
Order the right heater for your model
Fisher & Paykel and Haier share this condenser dryer platform, so the same element suits a long list of models. Match yours on the sticker:
- Heater H0024000291A — suits DE8060P3, DC8060P1, DE8060P2, HD80-01, HDHP90AN1, HDC80E1 and more — $96.95
- Same element H0024000291A (alternate listing) — $96.95
- Heater for DC8060P3 / DE8060P1 / DE8060P2 — $109.85
These are hard-to-find condenser dryer elements most counters can’t supply. Run your model number through the Part Finder — model in, exact-fit heater out.
Replace the heater element (1–2 hours)
- Unplug at the wall and empty the water tank.
- Remove the rear or top panel to reach the heater housing behind the drum air path.
- Photograph the wiring on the element and thermal cut-out before you disconnect anything.
- Disconnect the leads and undo the screws holding the element assembly in its housing.
- Withdraw the old element and slide the new one into the same position, refitting any gaskets or clips.
- Reconnect the wiring exactly as photographed, including the thermal cut-out.
- Refit the panels, restore power and run a short cycle — feel for hot air in the drum within a few minutes.
Repair cost summary (Australia 2026)
| Path | Cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| DIY: replacement heater element | $95–$110 | 1–2 hours |
| Professional repair: part + call-out | $280–$400 | 1-hour booking |
| Replacement condenser dryer | $700–$1,300 | — |
Frequently asked questions
My Fisher & Paykel dryer runs the full cycle but clothes are still wet — is it the element?
Usually yes. If the drum air stays cold through a full run, the heater element or its thermal cut-out has failed.
Could it just be a blocked filter?
It can — a choked lint filter or condenser starves airflow and trips the cut-out. Always clean both and retest before replacing the element.
Is the Haier element the same as the Fisher & Paykel one?
On this platform, yes — H0024000291A is the shared part across the Fisher & Paykel and Haier condenser models listed. Match your model to be sure.
Do I need a multimeter?
It helps confirm a burnt element before you buy. An open circuit across the element terminals is a dead giveaway.
Where do I get Fisher & Paykel dryer parts?
We stock the condenser dryer range. See our Fisher & Paykel dryer parts.
Related
- Fisher & Paykel dryer parts — full range
- Hard-to-find appliance brand parts — full index
- All condenser dryer heaters in stock
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit heater out.
- Browse 3,000+ parts in stock
- Order before 12pm Sydney time → ships same day from our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
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