Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your Hisense fridge is warm but the freezer is still cold, the most likely cause is a failed evaporator fan motor or a stuck defrost system — not the compressor. Listen for fan noise and check for ice on the back panel. We stock genuine Hisense fan motors, defrost sensors and thermostats with same-day Sydney dispatch.
HISENSE 1401192 FRIDGE THERMOSTAT p/n K1063595 WDF30K-921-029-EXIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part- K1960962 Hisense Fridge Fan Motor HR6TFF459 HR6CDFF670S HR6CDFF670S HR6CDFF670B HR6TFF459In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Fridge Freezer Defrost Sensor K1418409 HR6BMFF320S HR6BMFF520S 3575In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Fridge Fan Motor K1629352 Suits HRSBS578BW HR6SBSFF566 HR6SBSFF624SWIn stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Fridge Fan Motor K1629352 Suits HR6CDFF695GB BCD-556WYBHC4In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- HISENSE FRIDGE THERMOSTAT SUIT HR6AF243 p/n K1113209,WDFE25K-921-328 0592In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All Hisense washing machine parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Last updated October 2026
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Fridge warm but freezer still cold? Start here
The classic Hisense “not cooling” complaint is a fridge compartment sitting at 12–18°C while the freezer stays rock hard at -18°C. This pattern almost always points to airflow, not the sealed system. In most Hisense fridges the cooling is generated in the freezer’s evaporator and an evaporator fan motor pushes that cold air up into the fridge cavity. If the fan stops, the freezer keeps freezing but no cold air reaches the fridge. The two failures behind this are a dead fan motor or a blocked evaporator iced over because the defrost cycle has stopped. A faulty compressor, by contrast, leaves both compartments warm. So if your freezer is fine and only the fridge is warm, focus on the fan and defrost parts below before assuming the worst.
The three suspects: fan motor vs defrost sensor vs heater
Three components are behind nearly every Hisense no-cool-but-freezer-ok fault. Diagnosing the right one saves you buying parts you don’t need.
| Symptom you observe | Most likely cause | Part type |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge warm, freezer cold, no fan whir when door switch pressed | Evaporator fan motor failed | Fan motor |
| Fridge warm, thick ice/frost coating the rear evaporator panel | Defrost sensor or heater not clearing frost | Defrost sensor / heater |
| Loud buzzing, grinding or clicking from rear of freezer | Fan motor bearing failing (fan hitting ice) | Fan motor |
| Whole fridge cycling warm then cold, temp dial unresponsive | Faulty thermostat | Thermostat |
| Both fridge AND freezer warm, compressor hot/humming | Sealed-system or compressor fault | Call a licensed tech |
An evaporator fan motor is the small DC12V fan behind the rear panel that circulates cold air. A defrost sensor is a thermistor that tells the control board when to melt frost off the evaporator coils. Match your symptom to the table, then confirm with the tests below.
How to test the evaporator fan motor (5 minutes)
Unplug the fridge at the wall before opening any panel — these are 240V appliances and you’ll be working near live wiring on the control board. Once isolated, empty the freezer and remove the rear interior panel (usually 4–6 screws). You’ll see the fan and the evaporator coils behind it.
Look first for ice jamming the fan blade — if the blade is frozen solid, the motor may be fine but the defrost system has failed (see next section). If the blade spins freely by hand but never ran, the motor is likely dead. Most Hisense fans are DC12V; with the fridge running and the door switch held in, a healthy fan spins steadily. A motor that’s silent, intermittent, or screeching on its bearings needs replacing. A new evaporator fan motor is a straightforward DIY swap — two screws and a plug. If you’re unsure about the wiring, stop and use a licensed technician (AS/NZS 3760).
How to diagnose the defrost sensor and heater
If the fan blade is buried in ice, the motor isn’t the root cause — the defrost system has stopped clearing frost. Hisense fridges run an auto-defrost cycle several times a day: the defrost sensor (a thermistor) monitors evaporator temperature and triggers the defrost heater to melt frost before it chokes airflow. When the sensor drifts out of range or the heater fails, ice builds layer by layer until it blocks the fan and the fridge goes warm.
The tell-tale sign is thick white frost coating the back panel rather than a clean coil. A quick confirmation: fully defrost the fridge (switch off, doors open, towels down, 24 hours). If it cools normally afterwards but warms up again within 3–7 days, the defrost sensor or heater is faulty and needs replacing. A defrost sensor is an inexpensive thermistor; testing resistance with a multimeter against spec confirms it. Replacing it restores normal defrost cycles and stops the ice returning.
Identify your Hisense model (HR6 / HRSBS)
Getting the right part depends entirely on your model number. The model sticker is inside the fridge on the left-hand wall, behind the salad crisper, listing model and serial. Hisense (and rebadged Haier) Australian models follow recognisable prefixes.
| Model prefix | Format | Example models |
|---|---|---|
| HR6 | Bottom-mount & French-door | HR6TFF459, HR6CDFF670S, HR6CDFF695GB, HR6BMFF320S |
| HRSBS / HR6SBS | Side-by-side | HRSBS578BW, HR6SBSFF566, HR6SBSFF624SW |
| HR6AF / WRM | Top-mount & bar fridges | HR6AF243, WRM2400WD |
The HR6 prefix covers most large bottom-mount and French-door units; HRSBS denotes side-by-side. Note the full code (e.g. HR6CDFF670B) — a single letter changes the compatible fan motor or sensor. Some Hisense units are mechanically identical to Haier-badged models, so a Haier-listed part can be the correct fit. Always match the part to your exact model before ordering.
Genuine Hisense cooling parts we stock
All parts below are genuine Hisense/Haier components held in our Sydney warehouse with same-day dispatch on orders placed before cut-off. Match the part to your model from the model sticker.
| Part number | Fits | Link |
|---|---|---|
 K1629352 (fan motor) | HRSBS578BW, HR6SBSFF566, HR6SBSFF624SW | |
 K1629352 (fan motor) | HR6CDFF695GB, BCD-556WYBHC4 | |
 K1960962 (fan motor) | HR6TFF459, HR6CDFF670S, HR6CDFF670B, HRTF326 | |
 K1418409 (defrost sensor) | HR6BMFF320S, HR6BMFF520S, HR6FDFF630S | |
 K1113209 (thermostat) | HR6AF243, WRM2400WD | |
 K1063595 (thermostat) | WDF30K-921-029-EX series |
Not sure which fits? Run the Oz Part Finder with your model number.
What it costs in Australia (AUD)
Repairing a Hisense fridge yourself is far cheaper than a callout. A genuine evaporator fan motor typically runs $45–$110 AUD, a defrost sensor $25–$55, and a thermostat $35–$85, depending on model. By comparison, an in-home appliance technician’s callout in Sydney or Melbourne starts around $130–$180 to diagnose, plus parts and labour — often $300+ for a fan motor replacement.
| Repair | DIY part (AUD) | Technician total (AUD) |
|---|---|---|
| Evaporator fan motor | $45–$110 | $280–$380 |
| Defrost sensor | $25–$55 | $230–$320 |
| Thermostat | $35–$85 | $250–$340 |
| Sealed-system / compressor | Not DIY | $600–$1,200+ |
A swapped fan motor or defrost sensor typically adds years of reliable cooling to an otherwise sound fridge, so a $25–$110 part can save you the $1,500–$3,000 cost of replacing the whole unit. Keep your model and serial details handy from the model sticker — they make ordering the exact-fit part fast and avoid costly wrong-part returns.
When to call a licensed technician
Most fan, sensor and thermostat faults are confidently DIY-able with the fridge unplugged. But some faults are not — and attempting them can be dangerous or illegal. If both the fridge and freezer are warm, the compressor is running hot, or you can hear it cycling on and off rapidly, you’re likely looking at a sealed-system fault (refrigerant leak, blocked capillary or failed compressor). Sealed-system work involves handling refrigerant gas and is restricted to licensed technicians holding an ARC refrigerant handling licence — it is not a DIY job. Likewise, any repair where you’re uncertain about 240V mains wiring should go to a licensed appliance technician working to AS/NZS standards. Replacing a clip-in fan motor or thermistor is safe with the fridge isolated at the wall; opening the refrigerant circuit is not. When in doubt, swap the cheap, accessible parts first and call a pro if the fault persists.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Hisense fridge warm but the freezer still cold?
This almost always means cold air isn’t moving from the freezer into the fridge. The usual cause is a failed evaporator fan motor or an iced-up evaporator from a defrost fault. The compressor is still working, which is why the freezer stays cold.
How do I know if it’s the fan motor or the defrost sensor?
Remove the rear freezer panel after unplugging. If the fan blade spins freely but never runs, suspect the fan motor. If the blade is jammed in thick ice, the defrost sensor or heater has failed and let frost build up.
What does a Hisense evaporator fan motor cost in Australia?
A genuine Hisense fan motor (such as K1629352 or K1960962) typically costs $45–$110 AUD. Replacing it yourself avoids a technician callout that usually totals $280–$380.
Where is the model number on a Hisense fridge?
On the model sticker inside the fridge, usually on the left interior wall behind the bottom salad crisper. It lists the full model code (e.g. HR6CDFF670S) and serial number you need to order the right part.
Can I replace a Hisense fridge fan motor myself?
Yes, in most cases. Unplug the fridge at the wall, remove the rear panel, unclip the old motor and plug in the new one. If you’re unsure about the wiring, use a licensed technician per AS/NZS guidelines.
Is ice build-up on the back panel normal?
A light, even frost is normal between defrost cycles. Thick, growing white ice that blocks the fan is not — it signals a defrost sensor or heater fault and will eventually stop the fridge cooling.
When should I just call a technician?
If both compartments are warm or the compressor runs hot, you likely have a sealed-system or compressor fault. That requires a licensed, ARC-certified technician and is not a DIY repair.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my Hisense fridge warm but the freezer still cold?
Cold air is not moving from the freezer into the fridge. On a Hisense fridge the usual cause is a failed evaporator fan motor or an evaporator iced over from a defrost fault. The compressor is still working, which is why the freezer stays cold.
How do I know if it’s the fan motor or the defrost sensor on a Hisense fridge?
Unplug the fridge and remove the rear freezer panel. A fan blade that spins freely by hand but never runs points to a failed fan motor. A blade jammed in thick ice means the defrost sensor or heater has failed and let frost build up.
How much does a Hisense fridge fan motor cost in Australia?
A genuine Hisense evaporator fan motor such as K1629352 or K1960962 typically costs $45–$110 AUD. Fitting it yourself avoids a technician repair that usually totals $280–$380, and a Hisense defrost sensor is cheaper again at $25–$55.
Where is the model number on a Hisense fridge?
The model sticker is inside the fridge, usually on the left interior wall behind the bottom salad crisper. It lists the full model code, such as HR6CDFF670S, plus the serial number — note every letter, because a single character changes the compatible fan motor or sensor.
Is ice build-up on the back panel of a Hisense fridge normal?
A light, even frost between defrost cycles is normal. Thick, growing white ice that blocks the fan blade is not — it signals a failed defrost sensor or heater, and the Hisense fridge will eventually stop cooling until the fault is fixed.
When should I call a technician for a Hisense fridge that won’t cool?
If both the fridge and freezer are warm, or the compressor runs hot and cycles on and off rapidly, you are likely looking at a sealed-system fault such as a refrigerant leak. That work requires a licensed technician with an ARC refrigerant handling licence and is not a DIY repair.
Related guides
- Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder
- Fridge not cooling but freezer is fine — evaporator airflow diagnosis
- How to identify your Hisense or Haier fridge model number
Ready to fix it?
Don’t pay for a callout to diagnose a part you can swap yourself. Grab your model number from the model sticker and find your exact Hisense part with the Oz Part Finder — genuine parts, same-day Sydney dispatch.
