Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your fridge is warm but the freezer is still cold, the most common cause is a failed evaporator fan motor — the fan that pushes cold air from the freezer up into the fridge. Confirm it by listening for the fan inside the freezer. We stock genuine Westinghouse, LG and Kelvinator fan motors with same-day Sydney dispatch.
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Why a warm fridge with a cold freezer points to the fan
The evaporator fan motor is a small fan hidden behind the rear panel inside your freezer. In a frost-free fridge, only the freezer has cooling coils (the evaporator). That fan is what blows the cold air from those coils up through a duct into the fridge compartment. When the motor fails, the freezer stays cold because it sits right next to the coils — but no cold air reaches the fridge, so it slowly warms to room temperature. This is the single most common reason a fridge is not cold but the freezer still works. If the compressor and freezer are fine, suspect the fan first. A dead evaporator fan can starve the fridge of cold air within a few hours, spoiling milk, meat and vegetables while the freezer looks perfectly normal.
How to confirm it’s the evaporator fan (5-minute test)
Run this quick check before buying any part:
- Open the freezer door and listen. With the door open, press in the freezer door switch with your finger (it’s the small plunger in the door frame). On most fridges the fan keeps running with the door open when the switch is held — you should hear a steady whirr.
- No sound = no fan. Silence, a faint hum, or a clicking/grinding noise all point to a failed or seized motor.
- Check for ice. Pop off the rear freezer panel and look at the coils and fan blade. A fan blade frozen solid in ice over the evaporator means the problem is the defrost system, not the motor (see below).
- Spin the blade by hand (fridge unplugged). If it’s stiff, gritty or won’t turn freely, the bearings have gone.
A fan that’s silent with clear, ice-free coils is a textbook failed evaporator fan motor.
DC vs AC evaporator fan motors — know which you have
Not all fan motors are the same, and fitting the wrong type will not work. Identifying the motor type up front saves a return.
| Motor type | How to spot it | Common brands | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| DC motor (e.g. DC12V) | 3-wire plug, often labelled “DC12V” on the motor body | LG, Samsung, newer inverter fridges | Speed is controlled by the main board; quieter and more efficient |
| AC motor (240V) | 2-wire plug, runs straight off mains | Older Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Electrolux | Simpler, fixed speed |
DC fan motors are common on LG fridges and are marked DC12V right on the casing — always match the voltage and connector. AC motors are typical on older Westinghouse and Kelvinator models. Check the part number printed on the old motor (or the model plate) before ordering. On some Westinghouse units the fan is also handed — clockwise vs anticlockwise rotation — so the direction matters too.
How to access and replace the fan motor
The job is straightforward with basic tools (Phillips driver, nut driver) and takes about 30–45 minutes.
- Unplug the fridge at the wall. This is 240V work near mains wiring — power off first, every time.
- Empty the freezer and remove the shelves and any ice maker in the way.
- Remove the rear freezer panel. It’s held by a few screws around the edge; ease it off to expose the evaporator coils and fan.
- Photograph the wiring, then unclip the connector from the old motor.
- Unbolt the motor from its bracket, transfer the fan blade and rubber grommets to the new motor (note the blade orientation).
- Fit the new motor, reconnect the plug, refit the bracket and panel, then restock and plug in.
Give it 2–4 hours to pull the fridge back down to temperature before judging the result.
Safety: This involves 240V mains. Unplug at the wall before you start. If you’re unsure about the wiring, use a licensed technician (AS/NZS).
When it’s the defrost system, not the fan
If the coils and fan are buried in frost, the motor probably isn’t the fault — the defrost system is. A frost-free fridge melts coil frost on a timed cycle using a defrost heater, defrost thermostat and a control (timer or board). If that cycle fails, ice builds up, blocks airflow and can jam the fan blade. Tell-tale signs:
- A thick block of ice over the evaporator and fan blade.
- The fridge cools normally for a day or two after a manual defrost, then warms again.
- A buzzing fan straining against ice.
If you manually defrost (unplug for 24 hours with doors open) and cooling returns, the fan motor is likely fine and you should investigate the defrost heater and thermostat instead. A genuinely dead fan motor, by contrast, leaves the coils clear and the blade silent.
Genuine evaporator fan motors we stock
Match your fridge brand and model below. Anchor your choice to the part number printed on the old motor or your model plate. All ship same-day from our Sydney warehouse.
| Part / Model | Fits | Link |
|---|---|---|
 Westinghouse fan motor 1434362 / 1453263 (clockwise) | Westinghouse BJ274BS, BJ274S, BJ385BM, BJ414BQ | |
 LG DC12V fan motor | LG GF-B505, GF-B530, GF-B590, GF-L500, GF-B570 | |
 LG DC12V fan motor | LG GF-L570, GF-LN500, GF-V500, GF-V570, GF-V910 | |
 LG DC12V fan motor | LG SG-5I700TSL, SG-W65TSL, GF-VB590MBL | |
 Kelvinator/Westinghouse fan motor | KTM4602AA, KTM4602WA, KTM5402AA | |
 Kelvinator fan motor | KTM4602AA, KTM4602WA, KTM5402AA, KTM5402WA, KTM4602WC-R |
Not sure which fits? Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my fridge warm but the freezer is still cold?
The most common cause is a failed evaporator fan motor. In a frost-free fridge, the fan blows cold air from the freezer coils into the fridge. If it stops, the freezer stays cold but the fridge warms up. Listen for the fan in the freezer to confirm.
How much does an evaporator fan motor cost in Australia?
Genuine fridge evaporator fan motors typically run from around $45 to $150 AUD depending on brand and whether it’s a DC or AC type. LG DC12V motors and handed Westinghouse motors sit at the higher end. We dispatch same-day from Sydney.
How do I know if it’s the fan or the defrost system?
Check the coils behind the rear freezer panel. Clear, ice-free coils with a silent fan = failed fan motor. A thick block of ice over the coils and blade = defrost system fault (heater, thermostat or control), not the fan.
Can I run the fridge until I replace the fan?
Not safely for food. With no cold air reaching the fridge, perishables will warm to unsafe temperatures within hours. Move food to the freezer or an esky and replace the motor promptly.
Is the evaporator fan the same as the condenser fan?
No. The evaporator fan is inside the freezer and circulates cold air. The condenser fan is at the back/bottom, cooling the compressor coils. A warm fridge with a cold freezer points to the evaporator fan, not the condenser fan.
What’s the difference between a DC and AC fan motor?
A DC motor (often labelled DC12V) has a 3-wire plug and is speed-controlled by the main board — common on LG. An AC motor runs straight off 240V mains with a 2-wire plug — common on older Westinghouse and Kelvinator. They are not interchangeable.
Do I need a technician to replace it?
Many handy owners do it themselves in 30–45 minutes. Because it’s 240V work, unplug at the wall first. If you’re unsure about the wiring, use a licensed technician (AS/NZS). Fitting a genuine motor yourself keeps the cost down — usually just the price of the part — and most fridges run another decade once the fan is replaced.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my fridge warm but the freezer still cold?
The most common cause is a failed evaporator fan motor. In a frost-free fridge only the freezer has cooling coils, and the fan pushes that cold air up through a duct into the fridge compartment — when the motor dies, the freezer stays cold but the fridge slowly warms to room temperature.
How do I test a fridge evaporator fan motor?
Open the freezer door and hold in the door switch — on most fridges the fan keeps running and you should hear a steady whirr. Silence, a faint hum or a clicking or grinding noise points to a failed or seized evaporator fan motor. With the fridge unplugged, a blade that is stiff to spin confirms worn bearings.
How much does a fridge evaporator fan motor cost in Australia?
Genuine fridge evaporator fan motors typically run from around $45 to $150 AUD depending on brand and whether they are DC or AC type. At Oz Appliance Spares, Westinghouse fan motors start at $23.60 and LG DC12V motors are $58.95, with same-day Sydney dispatch.
How long does it take to replace a fridge evaporator fan motor?
Replacing a fridge evaporator fan motor takes about 30–45 minutes with basic tools such as a Phillips driver and nut driver. The fan sits behind the rear freezer panel. Allow another 2–4 hours afterwards for the fridge to pull back down to temperature.
How do I know if it’s the fan or the defrost system?
Check behind the rear freezer panel. Clear, ice-free coils with a silent fan mean a failed evaporator fan motor. A thick block of ice over the coils and fan blade means the defrost system — heater, thermostat or control — has failed, and the fan motor is probably fine.
What is the difference between a DC and an AC fridge fan motor?
A DC evaporator fan motor, often labelled DC12V, has a 3-wire plug and is speed-controlled by the main board — common on LG fridges. An AC motor runs on 240V mains with a 2-wire plug and is typical of older Westinghouse and Kelvinator models. The two types are not interchangeable.
Related guides
- Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder
- Fridge defrost system not working — defrost heater & thermostat diagnosis
- Fridge running but not cooling — compressor vs fan vs gas
Ready to fix it?
Match your model and grab the genuine motor today. Find your exact part with the Oz Part Finder and get same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.
