Fridge Making a Clicking Noise? 4 Causes & Fixes [2026]

Key Takeaways

• A clicking fridge usually means the start relay is failing — a common and fixable issue
• If the fridge is still cold, you likely have time to order a part and fix it yourself before needing professional help
• If the fridge is warm and clicking, the food risk is real — you have 2 hours for meat/dairy, 4 hours if the door stays closed
• Before spending on a repair, try the “rattle test” on the start relay — if it rattles when shaken, it needs replacement

First Thing to Do (Right Now)

Feel the back of your fridge. Is it warm? Cold? The back should be warm when the compressor is running and cool when it’s off. If it’s cold 24/7, the compressor isn’t cycling properly. A clicking sound + a warm back usually means the start relay is dying. If it’s cold and still making noise, the ice maker or a different issue is likely. Check your freezer — is it frosting up? If yes, the compressor is running but struggling. If no frost, the compressor isn’t running properly. This quick check tells you a lot.

A clicking sound coming from your fridge is stressful because immediately you think: is my food safe? Is the fridge still cold? Should I unplug it? Is this going to cost me a lot?

The reality is less dramatic than your anxiety. A clicking noise is usually one of four things, and most of them are inexpensive to fix. The challenge is identifying which one you’re dealing with, and that’s what this guide does. By the end, you’ll know exactly what’s wrong and what it costs to fix — whether you do it yourself or call someone in.

The good news: if your fridge is still cold, you’re not in an emergency. You have time to diagnose and order parts. If it’s warm and clicking, you need to act faster — but even then, there are options.

Is Your Food Safe Right Now?

Let’s address the fear first. If your fridge is clicking but still cold to the touch, your food is safe. The cooling is working. The compressor is running, even if it’s making noise. You can relax.

If the fridge is warm and clicking, here’s how long your food is safe:

• Meat, poultry, fish: Safe for up to 2 hours at room temperature (40°F / 4°C is the safety threshold). After 2 hours, bacteria growth accelerates.
• Dairy, soft cheeses, leftovers: Same 2-hour rule.
• Hard cheeses, butter, vegetables: Safer longer — they’re more resistant to bacterial growth, but aim to cool them within 4 hours.
• If your kitchen is cold or you keep the fridge door closed: Add 2 hours to these times. A closed door keeps the interior temperature lower.

If your fridge is warm and has been warm for more than 2 hours, and you have meat or dairy in there, throw it out. The cost of food poisoning (medical bills, missed work, misery) far exceeds the cost of replacing groceries.

Quick action plan if it’s warm: (1) Check if the fridge is plugged in. (2) Check if the thermostat is set to a reasonable temperature (not 0 or “max cold”). (3) Feel the back — is it warm? If yes, the compressor is probably running but struggling. (4) Open the fridge, feel the evaporator coils at the back — are they iced up? If yes, there’s a defrost issue. (5) Call a tradie if you can’t cool the fridge down within 30 minutes. Don’t wait — food safety isn’t worth gambling on.

The 4 Most Common Causes of Fridge Clicking (In Order of Likelihood)

Cause 1: Failed Start Relay (Most Common — 60% of Cases)

What it is: The start relay is a small plastic component (about the size of a matchbox) attached to the side of the compressor. Its job is to send a signal to the compressor motor that tells it to kick into gear. When the relay is failing, it repeatedly tries to start the compressor, fails, clicks, tries again, fails again, clicks again. Hence the clicking sound.

How to recognise this: The clicking is rhythmic and often sounds like a soft “click-click-click” every second or two. The compressor isn’t actually running (or it’s struggling to run). The fridge is either not cooling properly or cooling very slowly. The back of the fridge may feel warm.

The rattle test (do this now): The start relay is held on by a plastic tab or clip. You can remove it (unplug the fridge first). Once removed, hold it in your hand and gently shake it. Listen carefully. If you hear a small object rattling inside the relay, it’s dead. That rattling is the internal contact switch that’s supposed to be fixed but has come loose. Replace it.

Part numbers (real ones):

• LG: 6748C-0004N
• Samsung: DA35-00099A
• Fisher & Paykel: 887106
• Electrolux / Westinghouse: 2262185
• Generic universal start relay: Available

DIY fix: Unplug the fridge. Locate the start relay on the side of the compressor (it’s a small plastic block). Pop it off (usually clips or a simple bracket). Install the new relay by reversing the process. Plug the fridge back in. Test — does the compressor hum and the fridge start cooling? If yes, you’ve fixed it.

Cost: DIY parts are inexpensive; professional service will charge labour on top.

Pro tip: A faulty start relay puts strain on the compressor as it tries repeatedly to start and fails. If you keep running the fridge with a dead relay, the compressor may overheat and fail entirely. Replace a relay immediately if you suspect it’s the problem.

Why it fails: Start relays are prone to burning out — they’re switching high-amperage electricity dozens of times per day. After 10+ years, the internal contacts wear out. It’s one of the most common fridge failure points.

Cause 2: Overload Protector Cycling (Very Common — 25% of Cases)

What it is: The overload protector is a second safety device that sits near the compressor. Its job is to shut the compressor down if it gets too hot. When the compressor gets hot, the overload protector trips and cuts power. Then the compressor cools down, the protector resets itself, power comes back on, and the compressor starts trying to run again. It gets hot again. The protector trips again. This cycle repeats, creating a clicking sound as the relay keeps trying to restart.

How to recognise this: The clicking is rhythmic and patterned: click-click-click for about 10 seconds, then silence for 30–60 seconds, then click-click-click again. This pattern repeats. The fridge is usually still cooling, but slowly and inefficiently. The back of the fridge feels hot when the compressor is running.

Why it happens: The compressor is working too hard because something is blocking airflow. Usually, the condenser coils (thin metal fins at the back of the fridge) are caked with dust. The compressor overheats trying to push heat out. The overload protector trips.

How to fix: Clean the condenser coils. Unplug the fridge. Look at the back of the fridge — you’ll see thin metal fins (usually aluminum). They’re probably covered in a layer of dust and pet hair. Use a soft brush or a vacuum with a soft brush attachment to gently clean these coils. Don’t use water — just dry brushing. Work carefully because the fins are delicate and bend easily.

Once the coils are clean, plug the fridge back in and listen. The clicking should slow down or stop entirely within 10 minutes. The compressor should settle into a normal cooling rhythm.

Cost: Free (just your time and maybe a brush).

Pro tip: If cleaning the coils doesn’t stop the clicking within 30 minutes, the overload protector itself may be failing. In that case, you need to replace it. But 90% of the time, dirty coils are the culprit.

Prevention: Vacuum or brush the condenser coils every 6 months, especially if you have pets or your kitchen is dusty. This is the single most important fridge maintenance task and it takes 10 minutes.

Cause 3: Ice Maker Cycling (Common in Some Models — 10% of Cases)

What it is: Most modern fridges have automatic ice makers. These machines have a small electric motor that harvests ice cubes from the freezer tray every 12–24 hours. The motor makes a clicking sound as it cycles through its harvest routine.

How to recognise this: The clicking is rhythmic and mechanical-sounding. It happens at specific times (usually once per day in the early morning, though the timing varies by model). The rest of the time, the fridge is silent. The fridge and freezer are both working normally. Ice is being produced (or it was, if the maker has since broken).

Is this a problem? If the ice maker is working and producing ice, the clicking is normal. You can ignore it. If the ice maker is clicking but not producing ice, then the ice maker module needs attention — it’s likely jammed or the motor is failing.

Quick test: Turn off the ice maker (there’s usually a lever or switch inside the freezer). Wait 24 hours and listen. If the clicking stops, it was definitely the ice maker. If the clicking continues, it’s something else.

Should you fix it? That depends on whether you want ice. If you don’t use the ice maker, leave it off. If you do use it and it’s not producing ice, ice maker module replacement is a moderate DIY job (requires removing a panel and unplugging connectors). If you don’t want to DIY, a tradie can install one in 30–45 minutes.

Pro tip: Ice makers jam because water in the ice tray freezes but isn’t harvested (often because the motor is weak). If your ice maker has stopped working, check for ice buildup around the harvest tray. Thaw it with warm water and see if that restarts the cycle. Sometimes the motor just needs one successful cycle to get going again.

Cause 4: Compressor Failure (Uncommon but Serious — 5% of Cases)

What it is: The compressor is the heart of the fridge. It’s the motor that pumps refrigerant through the system. When a compressor fails, it can make clicking, grinding, or squealing sounds as its internal bearings wear out.

How to recognise this: The sound is not just clicking — it’s more of a grinding or squealing noise, or a very loud clicking that sounds strained. The fridge may cool, but it’s slow. Or it may not cool at all. The clicking noise is continuous (not rhythmic with silent periods). The back of the fridge is very hot.

Important distinction: Most clicking fridges do NOT have a failed compressor. Don’t panic and assume the worst. A failed compressor is expensive to repair. But it’s rare — usually you’re dealing with a relay or coil issue, both cheaper fixes.

How to confirm it’s the compressor: If you’ve already replaced the start relay or overload protector (or cleaned the coils) and the clicking persists, and the fridge isn’t cooling well, the compressor may be failing. Get a tradie to assess it with compression testing — they can determine if the compressor is actually bad or if the failure is just the relay straining the compressor.

Cost of repair: Compressor replacement involves significant labour and parts. For most fridges over 7–8 years old, a new fridge is often better value than a compressor replacement.

Pro tip: Before paying for a compressor replacement, try replacing the start relay first. A weak relay strains the compressor, making it work harder and fail faster. Sometimes a new relay fixes a “failing” compressor because the old relay was the actual problem.

Diagnostic Flowchart: Which One Is It?

Walk through this table and find your situation. That’s your likely cause.

How to Test the Start Relay (The Rattle Test)

Here’s a practical test you can do right now if you suspect the start relay:

1. Unplug the fridge. Safety first. Wait 5 seconds.
2. Locate the compressor. It’s usually on the back-right corner, near the bottom of the fridge. It’s a cylindrical metal component about the size of a soda can, with metal tubing connected to it.
3. Find the start relay. It’s a small plastic block (about 3 cm x 3 cm x 5 cm) attached to the side of the compressor, usually held on by a plastic tab or bracket.
4. Pop it off. Gently pry it off with your finger or a plastic tool. It should come free without much effort — if it’s tight, check for a screw holding it and remove that first.
5. Hold it in your hand and shake it gently. Listen very carefully. If you hear something rattling inside (a small object moving around), the relay is dead. If it feels solid and makes no sound, it’s probably okay.
6. If it’s rattling, order a new one. Check the part number printed on the relay (it’ll have a label) and order the matching replacement. When it arrives, snap the new one on and plug the fridge back in.

Important: If you find a rattling relay and you’re uncomfortable removing and installing a new one, that’s a quick job a tradie can do for you. But it’s worth trying yourself — it’s genuinely simple.

How to Clean the Condenser Coils

This is the single most effective fridge maintenance task. If your fridge is clicking and the back is hot, this fix often works:

1. Unplug the fridge. Safety.
2. Locate the condenser coils. They’re on the back of the fridge — thin aluminum fins arranged vertically. They’re usually visible, but on some models there’s a metal or plastic cover. If there’s a cover, remove the screws holding it and take it off.
3. Get a soft brush or vacuum hose. Use a soft brush (not a wire brush — that’ll damage the fins). Or use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment.
4. Gently brush or vacuum the coils. Work top to bottom, moving the brush along the length of each fin. You’ll see dust and pet hair come away. This can be a lot of buildup — don’t be surprised.
5. Don’t use water. Water can seep into electrical components. Dry brushing only.
6. Reattach the cover if you removed one.
7. Plug the fridge back in. Listen. Within 5–10 minutes, the compressor should settle into a normal rhythm and the clicking should decrease or stop.

Time needed: 10–15 minutes
Cost: Free

Pro tip: This is also the time to check behind the fridge for dust buildup. Fridges need airflow around them to dissipate heat. If the back is against a wall with no clearance, or if it’s in a corner, heat can’t escape properly and the compressor works harder. Ideally, leave 5–10 cm of space behind and to the sides of the fridge for airflow.

Troubleshooting: What to Consider

Issues and Solutions

Here are some common troubleshooting scenarios:

• The fridge is clicking but still cold: Don’t unplug it. Unplugging stops the cooling, and now your food is at risk. If the fridge is still cold, it’s working — even if it’s making noise. Leave it plugged in while you order and wait for parts.
• You replaced the relay and it’s still clicking: Check three things: (1) Did you install the new relay correctly? It should click firmly into place. (2) Is the back of the fridge hot? If yes, the coils are dirty. Clean them. (3) Is the clicking coming from somewhere else — maybe the ice maker? Try turning off the ice maker and listen for a few days.
• The fridge cooled fine for 24 hours after cleaning the coils, now it’s clicking again: Cleaning the coils is a temporary fix if the underlying issue is something else. If clicking returns, the start relay or overload protector is likely the culprit. Order the relay and test it with the rattle test.
• Should I turn off the fridge at night to save electricity? Absolutely not. A fridge is designed to run 24/7. Turning it off and on repeatedly puts stress on the start relay and compressor. It’s the worst thing you can do for a fridge with a failing relay. Keep it plugged in and running.

When to Call a Tradie

You’ve tried the free fixes and DIY repairs, and the fridge is still clicking. Or you’re uncomfortable taking the relay off. Here’s when a tradie call is worth it:

• You cleaned the coils and replaced the relay, and clicking continues: A tradie can diagnose whether it’s the overload protector, compressor wear, or something else using compression testing.
• The fridge is warm and you need cooling immediately: Don’t wait for parts to arrive. A tradie can be there within hours and diagnose the problem on-site.
• The sound is grinding or squealing, not just clicking: This suggests compressor wear, which needs professional assessment.
• The fridge is under warranty: Opening it yourself may void the warranty. Contact the manufacturer or an authorised repairer instead.
• You’re uncomfortable working with electrical components: That’s fair. A tradie can do it safely and quickly. It’s worth the peace of mind.

A good tradie will start with diagnosis and then quote you for the repair. If the compressor is failing and you have a 10-year-old fridge, sometimes replacing the whole unit is more practical than the repair. They can advise you on that trade-off.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a clicking fridge dangerous?

Not inherently. A clicking sound is usually the fridge trying to start or cycling through a normal operation. The danger comes only if the fridge stops cooling completely and food spoils. As long as the fridge is still cold, you’re safe. Keep an eye on it and get it fixed within a week or two.

My fridge is clicking and cold but the compressor sounds tired. Should I worry?

A tired-sounding compressor (a low humming or buzzing) is normal when the relay is struggling. Replace the relay and the sound usually goes back to normal. If after replacing the relay it still sounds stressed, there may be compressor wear, but that’s relatively rare in fridges under 15 years old.

How do I test a fridge start relay without removing it?

You can’t test it in place. You need to remove it and do the rattle test (shake it and listen for internal rattling). It’s a quick and safe test that takes 3 minutes. If you’re uncomfortable removing it, a tradie can do it for you.

Can I run my fridge without a start relay?

No. The relay tells the compressor to start. Without it, the compressor won’t run and the fridge won’t cool. It has to be replaced to restore cooling.

Why do fridges fail after 10 years?

Because the start relay and capacitor (small electronic components) wear out after about 10 years of cycling on and off thousands of times per day. It’s normal wear. Replacing these components usually fixes it. Fridges easily last 15–20 years if you replace these components as they fail.

Is it cheaper to replace a fridge than repair it?

Usually no. A relay replacement keeps an old fridge running for another 5+ years. A new fridge costs significantly more. The only exception is if you need compressor replacement on a very old fridge — then you might consider whether a new unit makes more sense. Otherwise, repair the old one.

Need a Start Relay or Other Fridge Parts?

All the parts mentioned in this guide are in stock at OZ Appliance Spares. Shop our fridge parts store for relays, overload protectors, and components for LG, Samsung, Fisher & Paykel, Bosch, Electrolux, and more. Delivery to Sydney within 2 days.

Related Articles You Might Find Helpful

• Fridge Not Cooling? 5 Causes & Fixes — If your fridge has stopped cooling entirely, start here
• Fridge Door Not Sealing? 4 Causes & Fixes — If you suspect a door seal issue is causing cooling problems
• Washing Machine Door Seal Leaking? 7 Causes & Fixes — Appliance seal maintenance is similar across all machines

Next Steps

Do the rattle test on your fridge’s start relay right now. If it’s not rattling, clean the condenser coils (that’s the most common issue). If it is rattling, order a replacement relay from OZ Appliance Spares’ fridge parts section and install it yourself — it’s simple and saves you on labour. Let the fridge run for 24 hours and see if the clicking stops. If it does, you’ve solved it. If not, that’s when you bring in a tradie to diagnose further.