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Quick answer: An induction cooktop that won’t heat is almost always caused by one of three things: incompatible cookware (not magnetic enough), a single failed zone (induction coil or board fault for that zone), or a completely dead cooktop (main induction control board failure). Start with the fridge magnet test on your cookware — if the magnet does not stick firmly to the base, the pan is the problem, not the cooktop.
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Last updated September 2026
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Induction parts are sourced to order rather than stocked — send your model number and the error code and we will come back with what is available. A photo of the model sticker is enough.
Why induction cooktops need specific cookware
Induction cooking works by inducing an eddy current inside the pan base itself — the pan is the heating element. This only works with cookware that has a magnetically permeable base: cast iron, enamelled cast iron, magnetic stainless steel, or cookware specifically labelled “induction compatible.” Aluminium, copper, glass, and non-magnetic stainless steel do not work and will cause an E0 or U code, or simply no response at all.
Fridge magnet test: hold a fridge magnet against the outside base of your pot or pan. If it sticks firmly, the pan is induction-compatible. If it falls off or barely clings, the pan will not work on induction.
Causes and symptoms: induction cooktop not heating
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Code displayed? |
|---|---|---|
| No heat, pan show E0 or — | Incompatible or wrong-size cookware | E0 or — |
| No heat, no code, cooktop powers on | Child lock active, zone timer expired | Usually a lock symbol |
| One zone dead, others work fine | Coil or board fault on that zone | May show E0 on that zone only |
| All zones dead, display works | Induction control board (power section) failed | May show E2, E5, or no code |
| Completely dead — no display at all | Fuse, power supply, or main board failed | No display |
| Heats then cuts out with E1 | Overheating — cooling fan failed or vent blocked | E1 |
Step-by-step: diagnose an induction cooktop that won’t heat
- Check for a child lock or timer. Most induction cooktops have a child lock activated by holding the lock button for 3–5 seconds. Look for a padlock icon on the display. Also check that no individual zone timer has expired, which will turn that zone off automatically.
- Test your cookware with a magnet. Place a fridge magnet flat on the base of your pan. A firm stick = compatible. A weak stick or no stick = the pan will not work. Try a different pan if yours fails the test.
- Try a different zone. If one pan works on one zone but not another, the inactive zone has a fault — not the pan or the main board.
- Power-cycle at the wall. Turn the cooktop off at the wall switch or circuit breaker, wait 30 seconds, then power back on. This clears temporary fault states and resets the board.
- Check the ventilation slots. Look underneath and around the cooktop for blocked vents. Induction cooktops draw air through slots on the sides or base — a build-up of grease or a nearby wall that restricts airflow will cause overheating and E1 codes.
- Listen for the cooling fan. On power-up, you should hear a quiet fan running underneath. If there is no fan noise and the cooktop stops heating after a few minutes with an E1 code, the fan has failed.
- Check the power supply. Plug in a different appliance to the same power point — if that also fails, the issue is the circuit or socket, not the cooktop. Induction cooktops draw 1–3.5 kW and need a dedicated or adequately rated circuit.
When it’s the induction control board
If all zones are dead, the display is on, and swapping cookware and power-cycling does not help, the induction control board (PCB) is almost certainly the fault. The board drives the induction coils; if its power transistors (IGBTs) have blown — often from a power surge — no zone will heat even though the display and touch controls continue to work from the low-voltage supply circuit.
Signs of a blown board include a faint burning smell from inside the unit, visible scorching on the board itself (visible if you remove the base), and an immediate fault code (E2 or E5) on startup before any cooking has occurred. Board replacement is the correct repair. Check the Part Finder for your model — we stock boards for a range of budget and mid-range induction cooktops.
Repair cost summary (Australia 2026)
| Fault | DIY fix | Approx. cost |
|---|---|---|
| Incompatible cookware | Buy induction-compatible cookware | $20–$80 for a new pot |
| Cooling fan failed | Replace fan (screwdriver job) | $25–$60 for the fan |
| Induction control board | Replace board (moderate DIY) | $60–$250 for the board |
| Professional repair (board) | Call a technician | $180–$350 inc. call-out |
Frequently asked questions
My induction cooktop turns on but the zone does nothing — no code, no heat.
Check the child lock first (hold the lock button 3–5 seconds). If no lock is active, check that the zone timer has not been set to zero. Then test with a different, magnet-tested pan. If nothing changes, power-cycle at the wall.
One zone works, the other three don’t — is it the board?
Partially. Individual zone failures are usually caused by the coil driver circuit for that zone on the board, rather than the main power supply section. The board needs inspection or replacement.
The cooktop heats up then switches off after a few minutes with an E1 code.
This is an overheating fault. The cooling fan is either not running or not running fast enough. Turn off the cooktop, let it cool fully, then check whether you can hear the fan on next startup. If silent, the fan needs replacement.
My cooktop shows no display at all — is it the fuse?
Possibly. Some induction cooktops have an internal ceramic fuse on the main board. If the fuse has blown (usually from a power surge), the display will be completely dark. This is worth checking before replacing the board — a fuse is a $2 part.
Can I use an extension cord with my induction cooktop?
Only with caution. Induction cooktops draw high current — use a short, heavy-gauge extension cord rated for at least 15 A, and avoid multi-board power strips. Undersized extension cords cause voltage drop, which can trigger E3 codes and damage the board over time.
Related
- Cooktop parts — browse the range
- Induction cooktop error codes — complete guide
- Part Finder — model number in, exact-fit part out
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