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Quick answer: The E0 code (or flashing —) on an induction cooktop means the zone cannot detect suitable cookware. The pan base is either not magnetic, too small for the zone, off-centre, or severely warped. Place a fridge magnet on the base of your pan — if it falls off or barely clings, the cookware is the problem. Swap to a magnetic-base pan and the E0 will clear instantly. If E0 persists with a correct pan on every zone, the pan-detection circuit on the induction board has failed.
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Induction parts are sourced to order rather than stocked — send your model number and the error code and we will come back with what is available. A photo of the model sticker is enough.
What is the E0 code on an induction cooktop?
Every induction zone uses an oscillator circuit to detect whether a suitable pan is present before it will energise the coil. If the zone fires up and receives no “load” signal from a magnetic pan base within a few seconds, it displays E0 (or — depending on brand) and shuts off. This is a safety feature — the coil would heat the glass and nothing else if it ran without a pan.
The E0 code is by far the most common display on induction cooktops in Australia, and the vast majority of cases are caused by the cookware rather than the appliance. It is not a mechanical fault.
What triggers E0: causes at a glance
| Cause | How common | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Pan base is not magnetic (aluminium, copper, non-magnetic stainless steel, glass) | Very common | Replace with induction-compatible cookware |
| Pan base diameter is smaller than the zone’s minimum (usually 120 mm) | Common with small saucepans | Use a larger pan, or use a smaller zone if available |
| Pan is off-centre on the zone marking | Occasional | Centre the pan on the zone ring |
| Pan base is severely warped and not sitting flat | Occasional (old pans) | Replace the pan |
| Thin disc-base pan (thin magnetic layer) | Occasional (cheap pans) | Replace with thicker-based induction cookware |
| Induction board pan-detection fault | Rare | Board inspection or replacement |
How to test your cookware for induction compatibility
- The fridge magnet test: hold an ordinary fridge magnet flat against the outside base of the pot or pan. If it sticks firmly and you need to pull it off, the pan is induction-compatible. If it slides off or barely clings, the base is not magnetic enough for induction cooking.
- Look for the induction symbol: compatible cookware is often marked with a coil symbol (a flat horizontal coil shape) on the base or packaging. Note that this marking is not always reliable — the magnet test is more definitive.
- Check the base size: most induction zones require a minimum base diameter of 120–130 mm. Very small saucepans (moka pots, butter warmers, small Turkish coffee pots) are often too small, even if magnetic.
- Test for warping: set the pan on a flat bench and press on the rim — if it rocks, the base is warped and may not make consistent contact with the glass.
Cookware with a thin stainless disc bonded to an aluminium body can give inconsistent results. If the magnet sticks weakly and the pan triggers E0 intermittently, the induction layer is too thin. This is a cookware quality issue, not a cooktop fault.
What if the right pan still shows E0?
If a confirmed magnetic-base pan of the correct size is centred on the zone and E0 still appears, work through these checks:
- Try every zone. If E0 only appears on one zone but others work normally with the same pan, that zone’s coil or pan-detection circuit has failed — not the cookware.
- Power-cycle at the wall. Turn the cooktop off at the wall socket for 60 seconds. Some fault states are stored in volatile memory and clear on a full power-cycle.
- Try a different, known-good induction pan. A cast-iron pan or a dedicated induction saucepan from a reputable brand will confirm whether any magnetic cookware triggers E0 or just your original pan.
- Inspect the glass surface. A thick layer of burnt-on residue under the pan can reduce inductive coupling. Clean the glass thoroughly.
- Check for EF (moisture code) masking E0. If the glass surface has any moisture, the cooktop may lock the controls before E0 can even be cleared. Dry the surface first.
If E0 appears on all zones with confirmed compatible cookware and after a full power-cycle, the pan-detection circuit on the induction control board has failed. Check the Part Finder for your model to see whether a replacement board is available.
Induction-compatible cookware guide
| Material | Works on induction? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cast iron | Yes — excellent | Heavy but ideal; heats very evenly |
| Enamelled cast iron | Yes — excellent | Le Creuset and similar; works perfectly |
| Magnetic stainless steel (18/0 or 18/10 with magnetic base) | Yes — good | Test with magnet; some stainless is non-magnetic |
| Carbon steel | Yes — good | Woks and crepe pans; magnet test confirms |
| Aluminium (including hard-anodised) | No | Requires a separate induction disc adapter |
| Copper | No | Not magnetic |
| Glass or ceramic | No | Not magnetic |
| Non-magnetic stainless (304 grade, no magnetic disc) | No | Common in cheaper cookware sets |
Frequently asked questions
My induction cooktop shows — (double dash) instead of E0 — is that the same thing?
Yes. Some brands use — to indicate no pan detected; others use E0 or U. The meaning and fix are identical.
My pan worked last week and now shows E0 — can a pan stop working on induction?
Yes, if the pan base has warped from thermal shock (e.g., plunging a very hot pan into cold water). A warped base reduces contact area and may fall below the detection threshold. Check the base on a flat surface.
Can I use an induction disc adapter to use my non-magnetic cookware?
Yes — induction disc adapters (a magnetic plate that sits between the glass and non-magnetic pan) work, but efficiency drops significantly. The adapter itself gets very hot and this heat must transfer to the pan. Only practical for occasional use with a favourite non-induction pan.
E0 appears on one zone only. The other zones work fine with the same pan.
The coil or the pan-detection circuit for that zone has failed. This is a board-level fault. Run your model through the Part Finder to check board availability.
The cooktop shows E0 and I can’t clear it — is the cooktop locked?
Check whether the child lock is active (a padlock symbol on the display). If locked, hold the lock button for 3–5 seconds to unlock. Some cooktops also lock when the EF moisture code triggers — dry the surface first.
Related
- Cooktop parts — browse the range
- Induction cooktop error codes — complete guide (E0 to EF)
- Part Finder — model number in, exact-fit part out
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit part out.
- Browse cooktop parts in stock
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