Induction Cooktop Error Codes Decoded — All Brands (2026)

Quick answer: Most induction cooktop error codes in Australian kitchens fall into six families. E0 / F0 = no pan detected (cookware issue — magnet test below). E1 / E2 = overheat, restore ventilation or replace the cooling fan. E3 / E4 = pan-temp sensor fault under the glass. E5 / E6 = supply voltage out of range. E7 / E8 / E9 = power module or coil fault. Oz Appliance Spares ships the diagnostic parts — sensors, switches, regulators, control board components — dispatched from our Sydney warehouse (order cut-off 12pm AEST). Run your cooktop model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder to match the exact replacement to your unit.

Last updated September 2026

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The error code families (every AU brand, roughly the same logic)

The numbers vary brand-to-brand — Smeg uses E0, Westinghouse uses F0, Bosch uses E with a digit, Miele uses F-codes — but the underlying faults map the same way. Here’s the cheat sheet.

E0 / F0 — “no pan detected” (the most common, and the cheapest fix)

Induction works by inducing current in ferrous (iron-containing) cookware. If your pan isn’t magnetic, the coil senses no load and the zone shuts off after about 60 seconds with E0, F0, or a dash symbol.

The free test:

1. Grab a fridge magnet.
2. Touch it to the base of the pan (not the side — many pans have a magnetic rim but a non-magnetic base).
3. Sticks firmly? Induction-compatible.
4. Falls off or holds weakly? Won’t work on induction.

Aluminium, copper, glass and most stainless steel mixes (300-series stainless) are not induction-compatible. 400-series stainless, cast iron, and enamelled cast iron are. Most modern “induction-ready” cookware has a stamped induction coil symbol on the base.

Also worth checking: Pan diameter must match the zone — a 10cm milk pan on a 21cm zone often won’t trigger the sensor. Smeg and Bosch cooktops are particularly fussy about minimum pan size.

No part needed for this one — just switch cookware.

E1 / E2 — overheat lockout

The cooktop has temperature sensors on the coil assemblies and the power electronics. If either crosses the thermal limit, it shuts down with an overheat code.

Why it happens:
– Empty pan boiled dry on high power.
– Ventilation under the bench is blocked (induction cooktops need airflow underneath — they push heat out from the inverter into the cavity).
– Ambient temperature too high (cooktop installed above a wall oven that’s running hot).
– Internal cooling fan has failed.

Step 1: Power off at the wall for 30 minutes, let it cool fully. If the code clears and stays clear under normal cooking, you had a momentary overheat — done.

Step 2: If it returns repeatedly, check the ventilation gap below the cooktop. AS/NZS install instructions specify a clearance under the cooktop (varies by model — check your manual). A sealed cavity with no airflow means chronic overheat regardless of how you cook.

Step 3: If venting is correct and it still throws E1/E2, the internal cooling fan has likely failed. Cooling fans for cooktops are usually stocked as a serviceable spare for Westinghouse, Chef, Simpson and Electrolux cooktop ranges — find yours via the Part Finder using the model number and we’ll match the exact fan.

E3 / E4 — pan-temperature sensor fault

A thin NTC thermistor sits under the ceramic glass at the centre of each zone. It reads the pan-base temperature for boost-mode safety and the auto-cook programs. When it fails (open-circuit, short, or out-of-range), you get E3 or E4 on that specific zone.

These are serviceable parts on older Smeg, Westinghouse, Chef, Omega, Bellini and Bosch units. We do not list induction cooktop parts in the online catalogue — they are sourced to order. Send us your model number and the code from the display through the contact page and we will tell you what we can get and what it will cost, before you commit to anything.

The fix is straightforward:

1. Power off at the wall.
2. Lift the cooktop free from the benchtop (4-6 hold-down clips usually).
3. The sensor sits in a small clip under the glass at zone centre, connected to the control board by a 2- or 3-wire harness.
4. Unclip the old, clip the new, plug in the harness, refit.
5. 30-minute job with a screwdriver.

Run your cooktop model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — we’ll match the exact NTC sensor to your model and ship it from our Sydney warehouse.

E5 / E6 — supply voltage fault

The cooktop sees the incoming 240V mains as out of spec — too low, too high, or with a poor neutral (common on older AU installs with a worn-out switchboard).

This isn’t a cooktop fault and there isn’t a part you order from us for it. Call a licensed sparky. They’ll check the supply at the cooktop’s isolating switch with a multimeter. Common causes: a loose terminal in the switchboard, a worn-out RCD that’s tripping under load, or a neutral fault on the building side.

If the code returns repeatedly after a sparky check, the cooktop’s internal voltage-monitor relay may be at fault on the control board itself — at that point we’re back in the same fix path as the E7+ family below.

E7 / E8 / E9 — power module / inverter fault

Induction cooktops use IGBT (Insulated-Gate Bipolar Transistor) inverters to drive the coils at 20-50 kHz. When an IGBT fails — usually from voltage spikes during a brownout, or end-of-life on a 10+ year old cooktop — you get E7, E8, E9, or brand-specific equivalents.

These are board-level failures. The fix path:

1. Run the exact model through the Part Finder so we can confirm whether a serviceable replacement board exists for your unit.
2. If yes, we’ll dispatch the replacement board from our Sydney warehouse.
3. Board swap is 60-90 minutes with a screwdriver and a multimeter to discharge the capacitors safely (high-voltage storage caps on the inverter — important step).

The parts we frequently stock for AU-market cooktops:

• Fisher & Paykel energy regulator switch (P/N 532008P) — the standard energy regulator for F&P radiant cooktops and the predecessor zones on some early F&P induction units — dispatched from Sydney.
• Universal-fit fan-forced oven elements for shared Westinghouse / Chef / Simpson / Electrolux ovens that share components with the cooktop module — browse from $25 in our oven and cooktop range.
• Technika Bellissimo cooktop knob replacement pack of 4 — a common spare for older Technika Bellissimo units.

If your specific model isn’t on a stocked board, the Part Finder will surface the right cross-fit options or fast-source path.

Cracked ceramic glass — replace the glass, keep the cooktop

Ceramic glass tops are model-specific and many AU brands sell them as a part. The replacement is a 1-hour bench job:

1. Lift the cooktop free of the benchtop.
2. Unbolt the control board and coil assemblies from the glass.
3. Lift the cracked glass out, drop the new one in, transfer the coils and board.
4. Reseal the perimeter, refit.

Find a glass-only quote for your model through the Part Finder — or send your model number and a photo of the crack through the contact page and we will quote the glass for you. Induction glass is sourced to order, not held in stock.

Brand-Specific Guidelines

The exact code system, sensor location, and serviceable-spare picture varies per brand. Below is the AU-market detail per major brand, with the parts Oz Appliance Spares can ship for each.

Smeg / Omega

• Code system: E0 through E9, displayed as a single character on the affected zone.
• Common faults we ship for: Pan-temp NTC sensors on the older SE-series and SI-series induction units. Touch-membrane control modules on the later S-series. Energy regulator switches on the radiant-electric Smeg cooktops (shared platform with some Omega units).
• What to do: Run your Smeg or Omega model through the Part Finder — we’ll match the exact sensor or regulator to your model.
• Tip: Smeg’s E0 is especially sensitive to pan size. Boost mode requires the pan to cover at least 60% of the zone — small saucepans on the largest zone will throw E0 even if the cookware is induction-compatible.

Westinghouse / Chef / Electrolux / Simpson

• Code system: F-codes (F0 through F9, sometimes F30+).
• Common faults we ship for: F3 and F4 NTC sensor faults — Westinghouse, Chef and Simpson share the same sensor part number across cooktop and oven generations. The universal fan-forced oven element ($29-39 depending on wattage) also cross-fits cooktop module heat sinks on some Chef/Simpson units. Cooling fans for the inverter modules.
• What to do: Send your model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — Westinghouse/Chef/Simpson/Electrolux is one of our deepest parts catalogues, with fast Sydney dispatch on most spares.
• Tip: F5/F6 on a Westinghouse induction cooktop is almost always the building supply, not the cooktop. Get a sparky in first.

Bosch / Siemens / Neff (BSH family)

• Code system: E-codes with one or two digits. The touch-control module on the glass is a common second failure point.
• Common faults we ship for: Touch panel decoder boards, NTC sensors on the older PIE-series and PIN-series induction cooktops. PXJ-series control boards.
• What to do: Match your Bosch / Siemens / Neff cooktop model in the Part Finder — BSH parts share heavily across the three brands, so a Siemens spare often fits a Bosch and vice versa.
• Tip: Wipe spills off the glass fast. Liquid pooling on the touch zone triggers phantom presses and lockout codes. A persistent touch fault that won’t clear after wiping = decoder board replacement.

Miele

• Code system: F-codes with longer numeric tails (e.g. F32, F62).
• Common faults we ship for: Decoder boards, NTC sensors, control knobs and touch panels on the KM-series.
• What to do: Miele uses Miele-coded parts — generic cross-fits rarely work. Run your KM model number through the Part Finder and we’ll match the genuine Miele spare or the closest validated cross-fit.

Asko

• Code system: Similar logic to Miele; F-codes for serviceable faults, E-codes for module-level failures.
• Common faults we ship for: NTC sensors, touch decoder boards, control knobs for the HI-series.
• What to do: Match your Asko HI-series model through the Part Finder.

Fisher & Paykel

• Code system: F-codes (F0, F1, F2) plus letter codes (U for lockouts).
• Common faults we ship for: Energy regulator switches for the radiant-electric cooktops, NTC sensors on the CI-series induction units, control knobs.
• What to do: Match your F&P model in the Part Finder — we hold a deep F&P catalogue and dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.

Technika / Bellini / Baumatic / Blanco

• Code system: Variable — these brands use rebadged modules from larger OEMs, so the codes often map to Smeg, Bosch or Westinghouse logic depending on the unit.
• Common faults we ship for: Technika Bellissimo replacement knob pack of 4, plus oven elements that cross-fit Baumatic, Blanco, Euro and Bellini units.
• What to do: Send the model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — these rebadged brands are exactly where our cross-fit catalogue earns its keep.

FAQs

My induction cooktop shows E0 on every zone — is it dead?

Almost certainly the cookware. Magnet test the base of your pans. If even one pan triggers a zone correctly, the cooktop is fine and the rest of your pans are the issue.

Induction cooktop E2 keeps coming back after I let it cool — what now?

Two paths: (1) check the ventilation under the bench (if your installer sealed the cavity flush, the cooktop can’t dump heat — fix the venting per the install manual); (2) if venting is correct, the internal cooling fan has likely died — Run your model through the Part Finder and we’ll match the fan.

Cracked the glass on my induction cooktop — replace it?

Yes, glass-only replacement is a real option on most AU brands and the swap is a 1-hour bench job. Induction glass is not held in stock — send your model number through the contact page and we will source and quote it.

My Smeg induction cooktop has been working fine for years, now E7 on the back-left zone — fix?

Most board-level inverter faults are serviceable if the replacement board is stocked. Run the model number through the Part Finder — we’ll confirm availability and dispatch the part from our Sydney warehouse.

Is induction cooktop repair safe to do myself?

The diagnostic side (magnet test, ventilation check, looking up the model) is free and safe. For sensor swaps and glass replacement, the cooktop is unplugged and the work is straightforward with a screwdriver. For board-level repairs, the inverter capacitors hold residual voltage even when unplugged — discharge them with a multimeter probe across the cap terminals before touching anything, or get a tech in for that step.

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• Find your appliance model number

Ready to fix it?

1. Magnet test your pans first — solves more induction “faults” than any part we sell.
2. Send us the model number and the error code — induction parts (sensor, fan, power board, glass) are sourced to order rather than stocked, so tell us what you have and we will come back with what is available and what it costs. A photo of the model sticker is enough.
3. Browse cooktop and oven parts in the catalogue — our stocked oven and cooktop range (elements, sensors, switches) ships from Sydney when ordered before 12pm AEST.