Appliance Spares
Quick answer: For a washer-dryer combo that leaks from the door, dries badly or fills during the dry stage — Fisher & Paykel WD8560, Haier HWD8040, Bosch WVH/WVG, CHiQ WDFL8T48, Samsung WD10F/WD85T — it is usually the door seal, the condense (electromagnetic) valve, the drain pump or the bearings. Combo seals cost more because they seal the drying duct too. Parts are stocked in Australia and dispatched from Sydney the day you order (12pm Sydney cut-off). Match the model number inside the door rim first.
Last updated September 2026
Which part is it? Symptom to part on a combo
The combo has finished the wash, ticked over into dry, and forty minutes later there is a puddle at the front of the door and the load is hot, wet and smells like a sauna. That points at two parts: the door seal, and the valve that feeds cold water to the condenser on the dry stage. Every row below links a live part from our washing machine parts range; match the model numbers against your sticker.
| What you’re seeing | What it usually is | The part |
|---|---|---|
 Water at the front of the door, worse on the dry stage (F&P 8.5/5) | Door seal split at the fold or cracked at the drying-air spout | Fisher & Paykel 8.5kg/5kg Washer Dryer Combo Door Gasket/Seal WD8560F1 |
 Same leak on a Haier 8/4 | Door seal, same failure | Haier 8kg/4kg Washer Dryer Combo HWD8040BW1 Door Seal Gasket |
 Door leak on a Bosch Series 6 (WVH28490AU on the sticker) | Seal gone hard from heat; the /01 or /02 index matters | Bosch Washer Dryer Combo Door Seal Gasket WVH28490AU/01 WVH28490AU/02 |
 Door leak on a CHiQ 8/5 | Door seal | CHiQ 8kg/5kg Front Load Washer Dryer Combo Door Seal WDFL8T48B3 WDFL8T48W2 |
 Dry runs for hours and the load comes out hot and damp; or water appears in the drum during the dry | Condense (electromagnetic) valve stuck shut or stuck open | Fisher Paykel Washer Dryer Combo Electromagnetic Valve WD8560F1 |
 Same fault on a Bosch Series 6 10 kg | Condense valve (Bosch calls it the valve-magnet) | Bosch Series 6 washer dryer 10/5 kg combo Valve-Magnet WNA254U1AU |
 Rumble on spin, rust streaks on whites (Samsung WD75) | Tub bearings and lip seal | Samsung Washing Machine Lip Seal & Bearings WD75K5410OW, WD75M4453JW |
 A bang on spin, then the drum drops and rubs the seal (Samsung WD85T/WD90T) | Cracked or corroded spider | Samsung Washing Machine Spider WD85T554DBW WD85T654DSE WD90T554DBW |
 Door sags, door-open error on the dry (Haier) | Worn door hinge | Haier Washing Machine Door Hinge HWD8040BW1, HWF10DW1 |
Why a combo door seal costs more than a washer seal
A combo seal does one thing a washer seal never has to: a moulded spout at the top clamps onto the drying duct, and hot air from the heater and fan enters the drum through it. It holds hot, moist air as well as water and takes a heat cycle every dry, so it goes hard, cracks at the fold and splits around the spout years before a washer seal would. That is why it costs more — a bigger moulding in a heat-tolerant compound, typically $90–140. Fitting adds one step: the spout must be seated and clamped on the duct, or the dry stage blows hot, damp air into the cabinet.
The Bosch Washer Dryer Combo Door Seal Gasket WVG28420AU/02 WVG30462GB/01 is a different moulding from the WVH28490AU seal in the table, and the /01 or /02 after the E-Nr decides which you need; our Bosch combo leaking-door guide walks through the removal. LG combo seals are not listed here; send the model number for an honest yes or no.
The condense valve: “washes but won’t dry” and “fills during dry”
A combo dries by heating air, blowing it through the drum and passing it down a condenser duct where a trickle of cold water strips the moisture out and sends it to the pump. That trickle is switched by its own solenoid — the electromagnetic valve on Fisher & Paykel and Haier combos, the valve-magnet on Bosch — under the top panel, opening only on the dry stage.
Jammed shut, it starves the condenser: the machine heats and tumbles for the full programme, the load comes out hot and damp, and some models throw a drying error near the end. Stuck open, water dribbles into the drum during the dry.
Before you order, check the cold tap is on — a combo cannot condense without it. Then run a dry and listen at the back for a faint trickle every minute or so; silence with the tap on points at the valve. On the WD8560F1 it is the electromagnetic valve in the table; our Haier HWD8040BW1 parts guide covers the same fault on the Haier. Valves sit in the $80–110 band and are a top-panel job. More WD8560 parts are in our Fisher & Paykel range.
Drain pump and lint: the cleaning you do first
Combos put lint down the drain. Most have no lint filter; the fluff a dryer would catch ends up as grey slurry in the pump housing. Before you buy anything for a “won’t drain”, a drain code partway through the dry, or a dry that stops early with water in the drum, open the pump filter at the bottom front and clear it.
Filter clean and the pump hums without moving water? It is the pump — model-specific, so search your model number or send it to us. For a code you cannot read, start with the error code decoder.
Bearings, spiders and a dropped door
A combo spins a heavy wet load and then tumbles it hot, so the bearings and the alloy spider work harder than in a washer. A rumble on spin that grows over months and rust-brown streaks on whites are the bearings and lip seal. One loud bang and a drum that now rubs the seal is the spider, corroded through. On Samsung combos that means the Samsung Washing Machine Seal Bearings Kit WD10F7S7SRP/SA, WD10F8K9ABG/SA, WD10J8420GW/SA, or the WD75 kit and WD85T/WD90T spider in the table, all in the $50–120 band; the Samsung WD10F7S7SRP combo guide covers the teardown.
A combo door is heavy glass; the hinge wears until the door sags and trips a door-open error on the dry. The hinge in the table is a two-screw swap. A door that latches but will not start is the lock; search your model number.
Where the model sticker is on a combo, and how to match it
Open the door: on nearly every combo the model sticker is inside the door rim, at the bottom or side of the frame. Photograph the full string.
The badge and the capacity split both matter: CHiQ’s 8/5 and 8.5/5 combos look identical and take different seals — the WDFL8T48 seal in the table versus the CHiQ 8.5Kg Washer & Dryer Combo Door Seal WDFL85T48B5. So do the suffixes: the /01 or /02 index on a Bosch E-Nr, the /SA on a Samsung, the F1 on the F&P WD8560F1 and the trailing digit on a Haier HWD8040BW1 or CHiQ WDFL8T48B3.
Search the model number on the site — the Fisher & Paykel model pages list what we hold for each WD model. Unsure about a suffix? Send the model number via the contact page and we will check before you order.
DIY or repairer?
A combo is a front loader with a heater, fan, condenser duct and extra plumbing in the same cabinet: deeper, heavier, more panels between you and the part. There is no such thing as a light combo.
- Do it yourself: pump filter, door hinge, condense valve (top panel off, two hoses, one plug), door seal if you are patient. Unplug and turn the taps off first; photograph the spout-to-duct clamp before you undo it.
- Get a repairer: bearings, spider, anything involving the heater or drying fan. Call-out and diagnosis typically runs $100–165 before parts.
- Stop and get a quote: a combo past eight years that needs bearings, spider and seal together; any heat-pump combo with a refrigerant-side fault, which is licensed-only work. Know the right part, then decide who fits it.
Laundry the size of a cupboard? Our small-laundry layout guide is worth a read first. For an Inalto combo, see the Inalto dryer and combo parts guide.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my washer-dryer combo leak only on the dry cycle?
The combo seal also seals the drying-air spout, and heat hardens that section first, so it holds wash water yet leaks condensation once the drum is hot. Replace the seal and clamp the spout to the duct.
My combo washes but won’t dry. Is it the heater?
Check the cold tap is on, then the pump filter. If both are fine and you cannot hear water trickling to the condenser during the dry, it is usually the condense (electromagnetic) valve, not the heater.
Why is there water in the drum during the dry stage?
Either the condense valve is stuck open, or the drain pump cannot clear the condensate because the filter is full of lint. Clean the filter first; if it keeps happening, it is the valve.
Is a combo door seal the same as the washer version of the same brand?
No. The combo seal has the drying-air opening and a heat-tolerant compound; the washer seal is a plain bellows. Match the full model number, suffix and capacity split.
Can I fit a combo door seal myself?
Yes, with patience. Unplug the machine, turn off the taps and photograph the front clamp and the spout-to-duct join. It is a washer-seal job plus one extra clamp.
Photograph the model sticker inside the door rim and search that number on the site, or send it through the contact page and we will match it before you order. Dispatched from our Northern Beaches warehouse in Sydney the day you order when it is in by 12pm Sydney time.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
