Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A Samsung washing machine showing 5C — or 5E on older displays — has a drain fault: it could not pump the water out in time. The two most common causes are a blocked pump filter and a kinked or badly positioned drain hose. Start with the pump filter behind the small access panel, bottom right on most front loaders — clearing it takes about ten minutes with a towel and a shallow dish. If the filter and hose are clear and 5C keeps returning, the drain pump itself is the usual fix.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
What the 5C code means
Samsung washers watch the water level while they drain. At the end of a wash or rinse, the control board runs the drain pump and expects the drum to empty within a set window. If the water is still sitting there when the time runs out, the cycle halts and the display shows 5C — a drain fault. The machine is telling you it tried to pump the water out and could not.
On most models, 5C and 5E are the same fault shown by different display generations: newer panels use the “C” codes, older ones use the “E” codes, so everything below applies to both. If your machine is showing a different code, start with the full Samsung washing machine error code guide instead.
One thing worth knowing: a washer will not spin with water still in the drum, so 5C often masquerades as a spin problem — soaking-wet clothes and a machine that refuses to get up to speed. Fix the drain and the spin usually fixes itself. If your machine drains perfectly but still will not spin, that is a different fault — see the Samsung washing machine not spinning guide.
Check these before replacing anything
Switch the machine off at the power point before you open anything, and keep in mind the water inside may still be warm. Ten minutes, a couple of towels and a shallow dish cover the whole list.
- Drain the standing water. On most front loaders, pop open the small access panel at the bottom right of the machine. Behind it, most models have a thin emergency drain hose with a stopper — unclip it, hold it over a shallow dish and let the drum empty in stages. No emergency hose? Turn the pump filter cap a quarter turn at a time and let the water out slowly instead.
- Clean the pump filter. Once the water is out, unscrew the filter cap anticlockwise and pull the filter clear. Expect an ugly mix of lint, coins, bra wires, hair bands and the odd sock. Rinse the filter under the tap until it is completely clear.
- Look into the pump housing. Shine a torch into the filter opening. At the back you will see the pump impeller — pick out anything wedged around it. On most models the impeller should turn in small notchy steps with light finger pressure; if it is jammed solid or flops around loosely, the pump is the problem.
- Check the drain hose. Pull the machine forward and trace the hose from the back of the cabinet to the standpipe or sink connection. Straighten any kinks. Height matters too: on most models the hose should enter the standpipe between roughly 60 cm and 100 cm off the floor. A hose looped too high, extended too far, or pushed a long way down the standpipe can beat the pump on every cycle.
- Check where the hose ends. A blocked standpipe or sink trap gives identical symptoms. Pour a jug of water down it — if it backs up, the blockage is in the house plumbing, not the washer.
- Refit and test. Screw the filter back in firmly hand-tight, close the panel and run a short rinse-and-spin to confirm the machine drains at normal speed.
A blocked pump filter is the cause of most 5C codes, so there is a good chance the machine is already fixed by step two.
The parts that actually fix a persistent 5C
If the filter is clean, the impeller is free and the hose run is clear but 5C keeps returning, the drain pump is the next suspect. Drain pumps are wear items: a small electric motor spins an impeller thousands of times per wash, and years of grit, coins and lint take a toll. A worn pump may hum without moving water, drain at half speed, get noticeably noisy, or die outright. Pumps differ between model series, so match the part to your machine.
| Symptom pattern | Likely part | Link |
|---|---|---|
 Water sits in the drum, the filter and hose are clear, and the pump hums, rattles or is silent — larger front loaders | Drain pump | Samsung washing machine drain pump (WF16N8750KV / WF16T9500GV / WV16M9945KV) |
 Same symptoms on washer-dryer combos and front loaders in the WD and WF16J series | Drain pump | Samsung washing machine drain pump (WD13J7825KP / WD16J9845KG / WF16J9800KV) |
 An older front loader with drain trouble plus door, seal or filling niggles arriving together | Reliability kit — door interlock, drain pump, inlet valve and door seal | Samsung front loader reliability kit (WW85K6410QX) |
| Not sure which pump fits your machine | Match the part to your model number first | Browse all Samsung washing machine parts |
On most front loaders the pump sits low at the front, directly behind the same corner as the filter, and comes out with a few screws, a hose clamp and a push-fit electrical plug — a very achievable DIY swap. Pump designs vary between series, though, so confirm the part against your exact model number before ordering.
Find the exact part for your model
The model number is printed on the model sticker — around the door opening on most front loaders, and on the back panel or under the lid on most top loaders. The guide to finding your Samsung model number walks through every location. From there, enter the number on the Find Your Model page, or take the Part Finder quiz and let it match the right drain pump to your machine in a couple of minutes.
FAQ
Is 5C the same as 5E?
Yes — on most models they are the same drain fault displayed by different control-panel generations. Newer Samsung washers show 5C, older machines show 5E, and the checks and fixes are identical: pump filter first, drain hose second, pump last.
How do I get the water out before opening the pump filter?
Use the emergency drain hose. On most front loaders it sits behind the same bottom-right access panel as the pump filter — a thin hose with a stopper on the end. Unclip it, hold it over a shallow dish and drain the drum in stages. If your model does not have one, crack the filter cap a quarter turn at a time and catch the water with towels and a tray.
My machine drains, but 5C still appears — why?
Because it is draining too slowly. The code fires when the drum is not empty within the machine’s time window, so a partial blockage in the pump housing, a hose run that is too long or too high, or a worn pump that has lost pressure can all trigger 5C even though water is clearly leaving the machine. Slow drain now usually means no drain soon, so it is worth chasing.
How often should I clean the pump filter?
Every two to three months suits most households, or monthly if you wash pet bedding or heavy-linting items. Regular filter cleaning is the single best way to keep 5C away — it also takes the strain off the pump itself, which helps it last longer.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
