How to Clean a Dishwasher Filter: Step-by-Step for All Brands [2026]
Key Takeaways
- Most people never clean their dishwasher filter until the machine breaks or stops draining — don’t wait that long
- A blocked filter causes poor cleaning, stuck food particles on dishes, and foul smells — clean it monthly, minimum
- Cleaning the filter yourself takes 10 minutes — DIY is far more economical than calling a professional service
- Mineral deposits (white crusty buildup) require descaling — white vinegar works and is more economical than commercial products
Try This First (Right Now)
Pull out the bottom rack of your dishwasher and look at the floor of the tub. Do you see a round mesh disc or a cylindrical plastic component? If you haven’t cleaned that in the last 6 months, it’s 100% blocked. The filter is the gatekeeper of your dishwasher’s performance. If it’s clogged, nothing works properly. Pull it out, rinse it under hot water, and already your machine will perform better. This is the most neglected maintenance item in Australian kitchens.
Your dishwasher doesn’t magically clean itself. Somewhere inside that machine, there’s a filter that’s catching every food particle that didn’t make it down the drain — pasta scraps, rice grains, bits of meat, sauce residue, everything. Right now, if you haven’t touched that filter in 6 months, it’s a solid mass of decomposing gunk. That’s why your dishes aren’t coming out clean. That’s why the inside smells like a bin. And that’s why your machine will eventually stop draining completely.
The shocking truth? Most Australian households have never cleaned their dishwasher filter. They just run the machine and wonder why it stops working after 5 years. They call a tradie, who spends 20 minutes pulling out a filter clogged with two years of food waste, when it’s often a quick DIY job. It’s completely avoidable.
This guide shows you exactly where the filter is, how to clean it (it’s dead simple), what to do if it’s caked with mineral deposits, and how to prevent it from getting this bad again. Once you learn this, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without this knowledge.
How Often Should You Really Clean the Filter?
Dishwasher manufacturers recommend cleaning the filter after every load. That’s marketing speak. In reality, it depends on your usage:
- Daily use (7+ cycles per week): Clean the filter weekly. You’re running 7 loads a week, and each one adds food particles to the filter. Weekly cleaning keeps it fresh.
- Regular use (4–6 cycles per week): Clean the filter every 2 weeks. That’s reasonable.
- Occasional use (1–3 cycles per week): Clean the filter monthly. Once a month is the absolute minimum, even with light use.
- Families with young kids: The filter clogs faster because kids tend to leave more food on plates. Aim for weekly cleaning.
The reality is that most people settle on monthly cleaning, and that’s fine. It’s better than never. But if your dishes are coming out with stuck-on food or if you’re noticing a smell, switch to weekly cleaning until it clears up.
What Happens If You Don’t Clean the Filter (The Graphic Truth)
Imagine taking a handful of food scraps — bits of chicken, sauce, rice, pasta — and leaving them in a dark, warm, damp space for weeks. What happens? They decompose. Bacteria and mould colonies move in. The smell becomes foul. And all of that filth is sitting in your dishwasher’s filter, being recirculated onto your “clean” dishes with every cycle.
The consequences:
- Poor cleaning performance: The dirty water inside the dishwasher doesn’t recirculate cleanly. It’s clogged with particles. Your dishes don’t come out clean. You rinse them by hand, defeating the purpose of the dishwasher.
- Foul smell: After a few weeks, the decomposing food in the filter creates a smell that lingers inside the machine and can even drift into your kitchen. Your dishes smell like the inside of a rubbish bin.
- Partial blockage of the drain: As the filter gets more clogged, water drains slowly. Cycles take longer. Eventually, water sits at the bottom of the tub after the cycle finishes.
- Complete drain blockage: If the filter becomes completely blocked, water can’t drain at all. The machine stops working. You need to call for professional service to assess the damage.
- Damage to the drain pump: When the filter is completely blocked, the pump has to work against massive resistance. The motor overheats. Eventually, the pump fails. Now you may be looking at significant repair costs or needing a new dishwasher.
None of this has to happen. Ten minutes of filter cleaning per month prevents all of it.
How to Find and Access the Filter on Your Brand
Every brand does this slightly differently. Here’s where the filter lives on the most common models in Australia:
Bosch (Most Common in Australia)
Pull out the bottom rack completely. Look at the floor of the dishwasher tub. You’ll see a cylindrical mesh filter (looks like a soup can with holes) sitting in the center. Below it, there may be a flat plastic disc or plate.
Two-part system (most Bosch models): The mesh cylinder and the flat disc are separate. The cylinder twists anticlockwise and comes out. The flat disc stays in place and usually has a metal grid inside that catches larger debris.
How to remove: Grip the mesh cylinder firmly (it’s easier if your hands are dry) and turn it anticlockwise about 90 degrees. It should come free. Some models have a notch instead of a full twist — if it’s not twisting, look for a small notch and lift straight up.
Miele
Miele machines have a different design. Pull out the bottom rack. Look at the center of the tub. You’ll see a cylindrical filter basket with a central bolt or cap in the middle.
How to remove: The bolt in the center unscrews anticlockwise. Once it’s loose, you can lift the entire filter basket out as one unit. Miele’s design is actually cleaner because the filter basket has a fine mesh on the bottom that catches particles separately.
LG and Samsung
LG and Samsung often use a single-piece or two-piece filter design, but they vary. Pull out the bottom rack and look at the center or rear of the tub.
Single-piece design (most common): A cylindrical filter sits at the bottom center. Pull upward on it — sometimes there’s a tab or handle. It should come straight out.
Two-piece design (some models): A mesh cylinder and a separate flat cap. The cylinder lifts out; the cap stays in place or lifts out separately.
If you’re not sure, check your manual or look for a diagram inside the lid of the detergent dispenser — most machines have a quick-reference filter diagram there.
Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer
Fisher & Paykel’s DishDrawer machines are different because they’re smaller drawers, not full tubs. The filter is accessed from the front of the drawer.
How to access: Look at the front panel below the wash area. There’s usually a small plastic cover or access panel. Remove it (usually two clips). The filter sits behind it. Pull it out toward you.
Electrolux and Westinghouse
Electrolux uses a European design similar to Bosch. Pull out the bottom rack. Look for a cylindrical mesh filter at the bottom center. It twists anticlockwise to remove.
Some Westinghouse models (white goods brands) follow the same pattern. Always check your manual if you’re unsure.
Pro tip: If you can’t find a removable filter, check your manual in the section titled “Maintenance” or “Filter Cleaning.” The filter location is always documented there. And if your machine is older (pre-2010), you may have a self-cleaning filter system — these don’t need manual cleaning, but the drain trap still needs to be checked.
Step 1: Pull Out the Bottom Rack and Locate the Filter
This is the easiest step, but it surprises people how much easier filter cleaning is when the rack is out. Pull the bottom rack all the way out. Look down at the floor of the tub and find the filter. You’re looking for a cylindrical mesh component or a flat disc with perforations. That’s your target.
Take a moment to identify the type (single piece, two pieces, twist-out, or lift-out). If you’re unsure, find your manual or take a quick photo and search “dishwasher filter [your brand model]” — you’ll find reference images in seconds.
Pro tip: While the rack is out, look at the spray arm holes at the bottom center of the tub. You’ll likely see a few holes clogged with food particles or mineral deposits. That’s something we’ll clean while we’re in here.
Step 2: Remove the Filter (Brand-Specific Technique)
Bosch (twist-out): Grip the mesh cylinder firmly and turn anticlockwise about 90 degrees. It’ll come free. If it’s sticking, you might have mineral deposits fused to the surface — don’t force it. Spray it with warm water from a spray bottle to loosen any deposits, wait 30 seconds, and try again.
Miele (unscrew bolt): Use a flathead or Phillips screwdriver (depending on your model) to unscrew the central bolt anticlockwise. Once it’s loose, lift the entire filter basket out. The basket comes as one unit.
LG/Samsung (pull up): Grip the top edge of the filter and pull straight up with firm, steady pressure. It should slide out. If it’s tight, wiggle slightly side to side as you pull — this breaks the seal and makes removal easier.
Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer (pull forward): After removing the access panel, grab the filter and pull it toward you. It should slide out smoothly.
General pro tip: If the filter is really stuck, don’t force it. Spray the edges with warm water from a spray bottle and wait 2 minutes. The water helps loosen dried detergent and mineral deposits that have fused the filter in place. Then try again with steady pressure — not a sudden jab.
Common mistake: Yanking the filter out violently. If the filter is stuck and you yank, you might break the handle or crack the mesh. Slow and steady always wins with stuck filters.
Step 3: Rinse Under Hot Water and Remove Loose Debris
Take the filter to the sink and rinse it under hot running water. Hold it under the tap with the mesh side facing down so water runs through it and pushes debris out. You’ll be amazed at how much food falls out — bits of pasta, rice, vegetable matter, all the stuff that’s been accumulating.
As the water runs through, you’ll see particles falling out. Keep rinsing for 30 seconds to a minute. The water should gradually go from cloudy and full of floating bits to clear. That’s your signal that the loose stuff is gone.
If there’s visible food matter still stuck in the mesh, don’t try to wash it away with water alone. That’s where the toothbrush comes in.
Pro tip: Rinse from underneath if possible. Water running upward through the mesh is more effective at pushing debris out than water running down. This is why older filter designs had holes on the underside.
Step 4: Use a Soft Toothbrush to Clean the Mesh
This is where you get the real cleaning done. Take an old soft toothbrush (not a stiff-bristled scrubbing brush — that can damage the mesh) and gently brush the mesh surface. Work in small circular motions, focusing on any visible debris still stuck in the holes.
You’ll be surprised how much comes off with the brush. Dried detergent residue, bits of food, even some early mould colonies will brush away. Keep the water running as you brush — the combination of bristles and flowing water dislodges stubborn particles.
Pay special attention to the edges of the mesh, where stuff tends to accumulate. Also brush the outer surface of the cylinder (if it’s a two-piece filter) and the flat disc separately.
Pro tip: Use the edge of the toothbrush (not the flat side) to work into smaller holes. The bristles are flexible enough to bend into gaps without damaging the mesh.
Common mistake: Using a stiff wire brush or a scrubbing pad. These can puncture or tear the mesh, and then your filter won’t work properly. Stick with a soft toothbrush — it’s all you need.
Step 5: Deal With Mineral Deposits (Hard Water Buildup)
If you live in a hard water area (most of Sydney is), the filter will eventually get a white or pale yellow crusty buildup. This is mineral deposits — mainly calcium and magnesium. Water alone won’t remove this. You need white vinegar.
How to descale: Fill a bowl with equal parts white vinegar and warm water. Soak the filter in this mixture for 20–30 minutes. This dissolves the mineral deposits. Then take your toothbrush and gently brush the mesh again. The deposits should come away easily now.
If the deposits are really thick (2+ mm crust), soak for an hour. For stubborn cases, use undiluted white vinegar and soak overnight. The acetic acid in vinegar eats through mineral buildup.
Why not use commercial descaling powders? They work, but they’re expensive and unnecessary. White vinegar does the same job for a fraction of the cost and you already have it in your kitchen. The only downside is the smell — vinegar smells strongly, but it dissipates.
Pro tip: After soaking in vinegar, rinse the filter thoroughly under running water to remove the vinegar smell. If you reinstall it without rinsing, your next load of dishes will smell like a salad.
For very stubborn mineral deposits: Use a 50/50 mix of vinegar and lemon juice. The citric acid in lemon is slightly stronger than acetic acid and tackles really heavy deposits.
Step 6: Clean the Drain Housing and Other Components
While you’ve got access, clean the other bits that need attention. The filter housing (the area where the filter sits) often has debris and mineral deposits too.
The filter housing: Use your toothbrush and the vinegar/water mix to clean the inside of the housing. This is where water drains, so debris here blocks drainage. Clean it thoroughly.
The spray arm holes: At the bottom center of the dishwasher tub, you’ll see the spray arm (or two arms, depending on model). It has small holes where water sprays out. Food particles and mineral deposits clog these holes, reducing water pressure during the wash cycle. Use a toothpick or a straightened paperclip to poke through each hole and dislodge any blockages. If mineral deposits are heavy, soak the spray arm in the vinegar mixture for 20 minutes, then use the toothpick again.
The door seal: While you’ve got the bottom rack out, take a quick look at the rubber door seal where it meets the tub. Debris and mould can accumulate there. Wipe it with a cloth dipped in the vinegar solution.
The drain hose (if accessible): Trace your finger along the drain hose at the bottom rear of the tub (it’s usually rubber or plastic). Feel for kinks or blockages. If the hose feels kinked, gently straighten it. If it’s blocked, boiling water (not while you’re inside) can help clear mineral deposits, but this is a bit beyond basic maintenance.
Pro tip: The spray arm holes are often the reason dishes come out poorly cleaned. Spend 5 minutes cleaning these — it’s worth it.
Step 7: Reinstall the Filter
Now the filter is clean, dry it with a cloth (not essential, but it makes reinstalling easier). Reinstall it using the reverse process:
Bosch (twist-back): Insert the mesh cylinder back into the housing and turn clockwise about 90 degrees until it stops. You should hear or feel a soft click as it locks into place. Give it a gentle tug upward to confirm it’s seated.
Miele (screw bolt back): Position the filter basket and screw the central bolt back in clockwise. Don’t over-tighten — a firm hand-tight pressure is enough. If you use a screwdriver, turn it just until you feel resistance, then stop.
LG/Samsung (push down): Position the filter and push straight down until it seats. You may hear a click as it locks into the slots.
Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer (slide back): Slide the filter back into the housing from the front, push it back until it seats, and reattach the access cover.
Pro tip: Make sure the filter is seated properly before you put the bottom rack back in. A poorly seated filter can fall out during the wash cycle or not seat the flat cover properly, causing poor drainage.
Common mistake: Putting the bottom rack back before confirming the filter is seated. If the rack catches the filter as you slide it in, you might dislodge the filter without realizing.
Step 8: Test With a Short Cycle
Slide the bottom rack back in, close the door, and run a short wash cycle (20–30 minutes, using a light wash setting if available). Watch for leaks or unusual sounds. If water drains properly at the end of the cycle and the machine sounds normal, you’re done.
If water sits at the bottom after the cycle, the drain is still partially blocked. Either the filter isn’t seated properly, or there’s a blockage downstream in the drain hose. Reopen the door, check that the filter is fully seated, and run another test cycle.
Pro tip: Run this test cycle with no dishes in the machine, so you’re not wasting water testing on a full load.
How Often Should You Do This?
As I mentioned earlier:
- Daily use: weekly cleaning
- Regular use: every 2 weeks
- Light use: monthly minimum
- Hard water areas: descale with vinegar every 2–3 months, even if you’re cleaning weekly
Set a phone reminder if you tend to forget. “Dishwasher filter clean” as a recurring task every 2 weeks takes 30 seconds to set up and saves you from needing professional repairs.
When the Filter Is Beyond Cleaning (Time to Replace)
Sometimes the filter is too damaged to keep using. Here’s when you need a replacement:
Cracks in the Mesh
If the mesh has visible cracks or tears (not just debris caught in the holes, but actual breaks in the plastic), the filter is done. A cracked mesh means particles go through to the drain pump, which can damage it. Replace the filter.
Hardened or Brittle Plastic
If the plastic has become hard and brittle (from age or repeated hot water exposure) and pieces are cracking or breaking off, it’s time for a new one. You can’t repair brittle plastic — it’ll just deteriorate further.
Discoloration That Won’t Come Out
Permanent brown or dark staining (not food debris, but staining in the plastic itself) means the material is breaking down. A deep clean won’t fix it. Replace it.
How to Order a Replacement
Order the replacement specific to your brand and model from OZ Appliance Spares’ dishwasher parts section. Installation is the same as cleaning — you’ll remove the old one and install the new one in minutes.
Troubleshooting: What If Something Goes Wrong?
The Filter Won’t Come Out
Mineral deposits or dried detergent have fused the filter to the housing. Spray the filter generously with warm water and wait 5 minutes. Then try again with steady pressure — not a sudden yank. If it’s still stuck, use the vinegar solution: spray it around the edges, wait 20 minutes, and try again.
Water Still Sits at the Bottom After Cleaning
The blockage is likely downstream in the drain hose, not in the filter. Check that the filter is fully seated (remove and reinstall to be sure). If water still backs up, trace the drain hose for kinks. If the hose is kinked or crushed, straighten it. If that doesn’t work, the hose or the drain pump needs professional attention.
The Filter Is Cracked and You Can’t Find a Replacement
Order one from OZ Appliance Spares. In the meantime, you can run the dishwasher without the filter for a cycle or two (it’s not ideal — particles go everywhere — but it won’t damage the machine). Don’t run it long-term without the filter, though.
The Machine Is Running, But Dishes Aren’t Coming Clean
First, make sure the filter is installed and seated properly. Second, check the spray arm holes for blockages. Third, check that you’re using the correct amount of detergent (too much detergent causes poor rinsing, which looks like poor cleaning). If all those are fine, the issue might be hard water — add a rinse aid to improve drying and cleaning performance.
Vinegar Smell Won’t Go Away
You didn’t rinse the filter thoroughly enough after the vinegar soak. Remove the filter again, rinse it under running hot water for a full minute (really thorough rinsing), and reinstall. Run a short cycle to air out the machine.
When to Call a Tradie
You’ve tried the basic cleaning steps and the filter is still blocked or leaking. Here’s when a professional service is worth considering:
- The filter is clean but water still won’t drain: The blockage is likely in the pump or drain line, which requires professional assessment.
- You’re uncomfortable accessing the filter yourself: A tradie can handle it safely and quickly.
- The machine is still under warranty: Opening it yourself may void the warranty. Contact the manufacturer instead.
A tradie will diagnose the issue, quote you for the repair, and handle any necessary replacements.
Need Replacement Parts?
If your filter is beyond repair, browse replacement filters for all major brands at OZ Appliance Spares’ dishwasher parts store. We stock filters for Bosch, Miele, LG, Samsung, Fisher & Paykel, Electrolux, and more. Delivery to Sydney within 2 days.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a dishwasher filter last if I clean it regularly?
With proper monthly cleaning, a filter lasts 5–10 years. If you clean it weekly (especially important with hard water), it can last even longer. The filter is designed to be cleaned regularly, not replaced often. Neglecting it kills it in 2–3 years.
What does a clean dishwasher filter look like?
After cleaning, the mesh should be white or cream-coloured (or the original plastic colour if it’s not white), free of visible food particles or dark staining, and smooth to the touch. You should be able to see light through all the mesh holes. If you hold it up to a window, light should come through evenly.
Why does my dishwasher smell even after cleaning the filter?
You may not have cleaned it thoroughly enough, or the smell is coming from another source. Check: (1) Is the filter fully clean? Soak it in vinegar for 30 minutes and try again. (2) Check the drain hose for a blockage or kink — stagnant water in the hose smells foul. (3) Run a hot cycle with white vinegar and no dishes to freshen up the machine. (4) Make sure the door seal is clean — mould in the seal causes smell.
Can I run my dishwasher without the filter?
Technically, yes, for one or two cycles if the filter is damaged and you’re waiting for a replacement. But don’t do this regularly. Without the filter, food particles go directly into the pump and drain system, which can cause blockages or damage the pump. The filter is essential to keep particles out of sensitive components. Use it as a temporary measure only.
Is there a difference between filter cleaning and filter replacement?
Yes. Cleaning is routine maintenance — you remove and rinse the filter regularly to keep it functional. Replacement is when the filter is so damaged or degraded that cleaning won’t restore it. A clean filter can last 5–10 years. A neglected filter (never cleaned) lasts 2–3 years and then needs replacing.
Should I use commercial dishwasher cleaning products or just vinegar?
White vinegar is all you need for mineral deposits and mould. Commercial dishwasher cleaners work too, though plain white vinegar usually does the job just as well. However, if your water is very hard and deposits are heavy, commercial descaling products are slightly stronger. For most Australian kitchens, vinegar is the right choice.
How do I prevent the filter from getting so blocked that the machine won’t drain?
Clean it monthly, minimum. If you use your machine daily, clean it weekly. Rinse heavily soiled dishes before loading (you don’t need to pre-wash them, but big food chunks should go in the bin). And run a hot cycle with white vinegar every 2–3 months to keep the whole system fresh, including the filter housing and drain hose.
Related Articles You Might Find Helpful
- Dishwasher Not Draining? 5 Causes & Fixes — If cleaning the filter didn’t solve your drainage problem, read this to diagnose other causes
- Dishwasher Smells Bad? 4 Causes & Fixes — If the smell persists after filter cleaning, there may be another source
- Washing Machine Door Seal Leaking? 7 Causes & Fixes — Appliance seal maintenance works the same way — regular cleaning prevents failures
Your Next Step
Right now, pull out the bottom rack of your dishwasher and look at the filter. If it looks clogged or smells bad, follow this guide and clean it today. You’ll be amazed at the difference. And set a phone reminder for monthly filter cleaning from now on — it takes 10 minutes and prevents expensive service calls. Browse dishwasher parts if you need any replacements.
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