Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If an appliance died during or just after a storm or blackout, work from the outside in before assuming the worst: check the switchboard breaker and any RCD, then the power point with something else plugged into it, then the appliance’s own lead and any inline fuse. Only after all three is it likely to be the control or power board. Surge damage is real but it is diagnosed far more often than it happens, and boards are the most expensive part in most machines.
Last updated August 2026
Work outward-in, in this order
At least 2,700 individual appliance model numbers are served by two or more distinct parts in our catalogue — but before any of them helps, you need to know whether the fault is in the machine at all.
| Step | What to check | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Switchboard: tripped breaker or RCD | Reset once. If it trips again immediately, stop and call licensed tradies |
| 2 | The power point, tested with another appliance | Dead point means the fault is the circuit, not the machine |
| 3 | The appliance lead and plug, and any inline fuse | Damaged lead or blown fuse is a cheap fix, not a board |
| 4 | Signs of life: any light, beep, or display flicker | Some life means power is arriving; the fault is downstream |
 5 | Totally dead with confirmed power at the point | Now a power board becomes the likely suspect |
Most “dead after the storm” calls stop at step one or two. It is worth being systematic, because a board is the most expensive part in most machines and the least satisfying thing to buy on a guess.
What a surge actually does
A surge is a brief voltage spike, most often when supply is restored after an outage rather than during the storm itself. Modern appliances have switch-mode power supplies on their control boards, and those are the components that take the hit — a failed capacitor or a blown track on the low-voltage side.
The pattern that genuinely suggests surge damage: the appliance was running or on standby when the power went, and it has been completely unresponsive since, with confirmed live power at the outlet. Sometimes there is a faint burnt-electronics smell at the back of the machine.
The pattern that usually is not surge damage: the appliance works but behaves oddly, one function has stopped, or it still lights up and beeps. Those point at a specific component rather than the board — a door lock, a motor, a sensor or a capacitor. A dryer that hums without turning, for example, is nearly always the run capacitor, storm or no storm.
Boards we stock, and the honest caveat
Control and power boards are model-specific and rarely interchangeable, even within a brand. Ours are matched to particular platforms:
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine power board for the WH1060 and WH1260 platform.
- Haier washing machine power board assembly.
- Haier fridge main control board for the HRF450B, HRF520B and HRF520F range.
The caveat we would rather say up front: board stock across the catalogue is thin, because boards are model-specific and slow-moving. If your model is not on that short list, tell us anyway — but treat a board as the diagnosis of last resort, not the first thing you order. The Fisher & Paykel case is walked through in Fisher & Paykel washer will not turn on: the power board.
After the power comes back
- Do not switch everything on at once. Bring appliances back one at a time, largest last, so a second spike does not hit a full load.
- Check the fridge first, then the freezer. Food safety runs on a shorter clock than the repair does.
- Let a fridge or freezer stand before restarting. Compressors do not like restarting against pressure. Give it time before switching back on.
- Reset clocks and programs. Some machines simply need a full power-cycle at the wall to come out of a confused state — off at the point for a few minutes, then on.
- Consider surge protection. A protected power board for electronics-heavy appliances costs a fraction of a control board. It is the one preventative worth the money.
If a breaker or RCD trips again the moment you reset it, stop there. That is a fault current, not a nuisance trip, and it needs licensed tradies rather than another reset. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission’s Product Safety site carries the standing advice on damaged appliances and leads.
Frequently asked questions
The appliance was off at the wall during the storm. Can it still be damaged?
Very unlikely. Switched off at the point, the machine is isolated from the surge. That is why the advice to switch things off during a storm is worth following.
How can I tell a blown board from a blown fuse?
Check the lead and any inline fuse first — some appliances have one at the plug or behind a service panel. A blown fuse is cheap and common; a board is neither. Confirm the outlet is live before either.
My machine works but forgets its program mid-cycle. Surge damage?
More likely a specific fault than a fried board, and worth looking at power stability at the outlet. A board that survived a surge but was marginally damaged is possible, but rare compared with an ordinary component failure.
Is it worth replacing a control board?
It depends entirely on the machine’s value and age. A board is often the most expensive part in the appliance, so on an older unit it can approach the cost of replacement. Diagnose thoroughly before you commit.
Does home insurance cover surge damage?
Many policies do, sometimes as an optional extra. It is worth checking before you pay for a board, particularly if several appliances went at once.
Several appliances died at the same time. What does that suggest?
Either a genuine surge event or a supply fault. If it is more than one or two, contact your electricity distributor — they investigate supply-side events, and it may not be your problem to pay for.
Get the right part first time
Before ordering anything, send us the model code and exactly what the machine does — dead, part-dead, or working oddly — or run the code through the part finder. If your winter checklist is overdue anyway, the winter dryer service check covers the parts most likely to be near the end of their run. Same-day dispatch from Sydney’s Northern Beaches on orders placed before 12pm.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
