Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Ordering the right appliance spare part comes down to two numbers: the model number on your machine’s sticker, and the part number on the component itself. With either one, matching is straightforward. With neither, it’s guesswork. This guide shows where each brand hides its model sticker, what to photograph before you take anything apart, and what to send us if you get stuck. We’re based on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and ship across Australia.
Last updated August 2026
Where your model sticker is, by appliance
Almost every ordering problem starts here. Find this first, photograph it, and the rest is easy.
| Appliance | Where the model sticker is | A part we stock for it |
|---|---|---|
 Front loader washer | Door rim, visible with the door open — or the rear panel. Some brands add one behind the filter flap. | Fisher & Paykel door seal H0020300940A |
 Top loader washer | Under the lid, or on the rear panel near the top | Samsung hot and cold inlet valve DC62-30314N |
 Dryer | Door frame with the door open, or behind the lint filter flap | Haier vented dryer drive belt HDV40A1 |
 Dishwasher | Inner door rim, usually the right-hand edge or the top edge | Omega dishwasher inlet valve 674000200032 |
 Fridge | Inside the fridge compartment: a side wall near the top, the ceiling, or above the crisper | Universal fridge defrost thermostat |
 Oven | Door frame, visible with the door open, or behind the bottom drawer | Fan-forced oven element, four badges |
Brand-specific guides to the sticker itself, if you want the exact spot: Samsung, LG, Bosch E-Nr, Fisher & Paykel, Simpson, Stirling, Esatto, Westinghouse and the PNC, Electrolux and the PNC and Haier — or the find your model hub for everything else.
A note on two brands that work differently. Bosch uses an E-Nr, often with a slash and two more digits, as in WAW28460AU/07 — those trailing digits identify the production variant and do change which parts fit, so capture the whole thing. Electrolux, Westinghouse, Simpson, Chef and Kelvinator use a PNC, a product number code that sits alongside the model name and is frequently the more precise identifier of the two.
Better than a model number: the part number
If you can get the failed component out, read what’s on it. Part numbers are moulded into plastic, stamped into metal, or printed on a small label, and they are the most reliable identifier there is — more reliable than the model number, because they identify the part itself rather than the machine it came from.
This matters because of how the Australian market works. A great many appliances are built on shared platforms and sold under several badges, so one part often fits machines from brands that look unrelated. A single drain hose outlet code covers eight badges; one dryer belt code covers six. Our guide to the Australian rebadge map shows the shared codes in detail.
The practical consequence: if your brand isn’t listed, the part may still be here under another name. Search the number, not the badge.
What to photograph before you take anything apart
Five photos, two minutes, and they’ll save you an afternoon:
- The model sticker, close enough to read every character including any suffix after a slash.
- The failed part in place, before you disconnect it, showing how it’s mounted and which way it faces.
- The wiring, so you can put the connections back exactly as they were. On multi-coil valves and dual-terminal parts this is the photo you’ll be most grateful for.
- The part number on the old component, once it’s out.
- The whole appliance front-on, which helps us place unfamiliar badges.
The five checks that stop a wrong order
Before you click buy, run through these. They’re the five things that account for nearly every mismatch we see.
Count what needs counting. Inlet valves are single, dual, triple or five-way. Dryer belts are described by rib count and length — a code like 8PH1971 means eight ribs, 1,971mm. Count the ribs on the old belt, count the outlets on the old valve.
Check the voltage. Some machines run low-voltage 12V DC valves and pumps from the control board rather than mains. They’re physically interchangeable with 240V parts and electrically incompatible. The rating is printed on the coil.
Check whether housing is included. On many front loaders the pump and the filter housing are one unit; on others the pump bolts to a separate volute. Look at what comes away when you unscrew the filter cap.
Check orientation. Outlet direction and mounting flange matter. A part that’s right in every other respect but points the wrong way will foul the cabinet or kink a hose.
Don’t assume a seal will cross over. Door seals are the exception to the shared-parts rule — they’re moulded to a specific drum and drain port position. Match those exactly to your model number.
Which jobs are genuinely DIY, and which aren’t
Being straight about this is more useful than encouraging you into something you’ll regret.
Comfortably DIY on a plug-in appliance: hoses, hose washers, filters and filter caps, drain hose outlets, lint filters, drive belts, door seals, drain pumps, inlet valves, door latches and interlocks, shelves, knobs and handles. Unplug at the wall first, and photograph as you go.
Take more care: oven elements, dryer and dishwasher heating elements, thermostats and anything hard-wired. These sit on mains voltage, they must be properly isolated, and in some circumstances the work may legally require a licensed person. If you’re not confident with mains connections, this is the point to hand over.
Not DIY at all: anything inside a fridge’s sealed refrigerant system — the compressor, the gas lines, the coils. That’s legally restricted work in Australia and needs the right licence.
If you’re weighing whether the repair is worth doing at all, our guide to appliance repair costs in Australia sets out what a repairer typically charges against what the part costs, and finding the exact part in 30 seconds covers the shortcut version of this guide.
What we stock and where it goes
We’re an Australian appliance spare parts business on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, holding thousands of parts for washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, fridges, ovens and rangehoods — genuine and quality-compatible — and shipping Australia-wide. The range covers the major brands and a long list of the smaller and rebadged ones, which are frequently the hardest to find elsewhere.
A representative spread, if you want to see how listings look: a Fisher & Paykel door seal, a Samsung drain pump, a Samsung hot and cold inlet valve, a Haier dryer drive belt, a universal fridge defrost thermostat, an Omega dishwasher inlet valve, a Hisense door seal, a Bosch pump with filter, a universal drain hose outlet and a Stirling door seal. Everything else is in the shop.
If you can’t identify it, send it to us
This is the part worth saying plainly. If the sticker has worn away, the badge means nothing to you, or the part has no readable number, don’t guess — send us what you have. A photo of the machine, a photo of the old part, and anything legible from the sticker is usually enough for us to place it. Identifying awkward parts is most of what we do, and it costs you nothing to ask.
If you repair appliances for a living or manage properties, there’s a trade account as well.
Frequently asked questions
Q: What do I need to order the right appliance part?
A: Ideally two things: the model number from your appliance’s sticker, and the part number from the failed component. Either one alone is usually enough. Photograph both — the part number is the more reliable of the two, because it identifies the part rather than the machine.
Q: My appliance brand isn’t listed on your site. Do you have parts for it?
A: Often yes. Many Australian appliances are built on shared platforms and sold under several badges, so the part is frequently listed under a different name. Search the part number rather than the brand, or send us the model number and we’ll check.
Q: The model sticker has worn off. What can I do?
A: Take the failed part out and read the number on it — that’s usually enough on its own. If there’s no readable number either, send us a photo of the appliance and the part and we’ll work from there.
Q: Do you ship outside Sydney?
A: Yes. We’re based on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and ship across Australia.
Q: Which repairs should I not attempt myself?
A: Anything inside a fridge’s sealed refrigerant system is legally restricted work and needs a licensed person. Mains-voltage parts — oven and dryer elements, thermostats, hard-wired appliances — need proper isolation and, in some cases, a licensed person. Hoses, belts, filters, pumps, valves and seals on plug-in appliances are the friendly end.
Bottom line: photograph the sticker, photograph the part, and search the number rather than the badge. Start with the part finder, or send us your model number and we’ll match it for you.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
