Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A squealing or grinding Simpson or Electrolux dryer usually needs the drum bearing and support kit (part 0542377026, Oz ref 0206), $24.45, with same-day dispatch from our Sydney warehouse. Run the free checks first — often the noise is something simpler.
Last updated June 2026
A dryer that has started to squeal, rumble or grind as the drum turns is alarming to listen to, and one of the most common faults we’re asked about. The good news is that on Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux vented dryers the cause is usually a single, cheap, replaceable part. Below we explain what’s actually making the noise, the free checks worth running first, and exactly which bearing kit fits your machine.
Why is my Simpson dryer squealing or grinding?
It helps to picture how the drum is held. The tumbling drum in a Simpson or Electrolux vented dryer isn’t floating in mid-air — the front rides on felt or plastic glides, and the rear sits on a bearing and support that lets the drum spin smoothly around a fixed shaft. That rear bearing carries the weight of the drum and a wet load turning hundreds of times a cycle, year after year.
Bearings wear. The smooth surface roughens, the grease dries out, and the drum starts to drag against its support instead of turning freely. That drag is what you hear. Early on it’s an intermittent squeal; as it worsens it becomes a constant rumble, and eventually a harsh metal-on-metal grinding. The tell-tale sign that it’s the bearing is that the noise rises and falls with the drum — it speeds up as the drum speeds up, and stops the instant the drum stops. If you open the door mid-cycle and the squeal dies the moment the drum halts, the rear bearing is almost certainly the culprit.
An Electrolux dryer grinding noise works the same way — these Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux vented dryers share the same drum-support design, which is why one bearing kit covers so many models. Left alone, a worn bearing gets louder, drags harder, and can eventually let the drum sit off-centre and rub through the felt seals or the drum itself. It’s not dangerous the way a heating fault can be, but it won’t fix itself and it does get worse.
Checks in order (cheapest first)
Before you order anything, work through these in order. Two of them cost nothing, and it’s surprisingly common for the “bearing” noise to turn out to be something you can clear in five minutes. Turn the dryer off at the wall and unplug it before you reach inside.
1. Check for a foreign object in the drum. This is the free one that catches people out. A coin, an underwire from a bra, a bra clip, a stray screw or a zip pull can drop into the gap between the drum and the front bulkhead and grind or clatter as the drum turns. The noise can sound exactly like a failing bearing. Run your hand around the inside lip of the drum and the gap at the front, and rotate the drum slowly by hand listening for anything loose. Shine a torch into the gap at the bottom of the door opening. Clear anything you find before you go further.
2. Inspect the belt. The drive belt wraps around the drum and the motor pulley. A perished, frayed or slipping belt can chirp, squeal or squeak — usually a higher, more rhythmic sound than a bearing rumble. With the power off, open the cabinet and check the belt for cracks, glazing or fraying. A belt squeal tends to be worst at start-up; a bearing gets steadily worse over weeks.
3. Check the felt seal and front glides. The drum’s front edge runs on a felt seal and glide pads. When these wear thin the drum rubs directly on metal, giving a dry scraping or squeaking sound. Look at the felt around the drum’s front rim — if it’s flattened, torn or missing in patches, that rubbing may be your noise rather than the rear bearing. Felt seals are a cheap part in their own right.
4. Then the rear drum bearing. If the drum is clear of foreign objects, the belt is sound, and the felt is intact but you still have a squeal or grind that rises and falls with the drum, the rear bearing and support has worn out. This is the paid part, and on these Simpson and Electrolux models it’s a straightforward replacement.
Which drum bearing kit fits my dryer?
We anchor fitment on your model number, so read the model sticker on your machine and match it to the list below. The sticker is usually inside the door opening or on the rear of the cabinet, and shows the model and serial number.
The main part is the Drum Bearing and Support Kit, part 0542377026 (Oz ref 0206). It’s the complete kit — bearing plus the support it seats into — and it’s the right choice for most of these dryers. There’s also a single rear drum bearing (Oz ref 0205) for the older 39-series models if that’s all you need. Both are in the table below.
| Part number | Fits these models | Genuine/Compatible | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Drum Bearing & Support Kit — 0542377026 (Oz ref 0206) | Simpson/Westinghouse/Electrolux: 39P400M, 39S500M, 39S600M, SDV401, SDV501, SDV601, SDV457HQWA, EDV505, EDV605, EDV605S, EDE605A, EDV705HQWA, LD352A, LD353A, LD500B, LD503A, LD504A, LD505A, LD505EB, LD515A, LD605EB, K352DB, K503DB, K505EDB, K5050EDB. Hoover: 3525DB, 3525DD, 3525DE, 3530DB, 3530DD, 5030DB, 5030DD, 5030DE, 5040EDB, 5040EDD, 5050EDB, 5050EDD, 5050EDE, and the D6174–D6772 range | Genuine (0542377026) | $24.45 | Buy now |
 Simpson rear drum bearing (single) — Oz ref 0205 | Simpson: 39P400M, 39P500M, 39P600M, 39S500M, 39S600M | Genuine fit — match your model | $9.95 | Buy now |
To spell out the coverage on the kit: it suits the vented Simpson SDV401, SDV501, SDV601 and SDV457HQWA, the Electrolux EDV505, EDV605, EDV605S, EDV705HQWA and EDE605A, the long LD-series (LD352A through LD605EB), the K-series (K352DB, K503DB, K505EDB and K5050EDB), and the older 39P400M, 39S500M and 39S600M builds. It also covers the matching Hoover-badged dryers — the 3525, 3530, 5030, 5040 and 5050 series and the D6174 through D6772 range — built on the same platform. If your model sticker reads any of those, the kit is your part. If you have an older 39P-series machine and only the bearing itself has gone, the single bearing (0205) at $9.95 will do.
Not certain which you’ve got? Run the part finder quiz or send us your model number and we’ll confirm before you buy.
How to replace the dryer drum bearing — step by step
This is a job a confident DIYer or tradie can do at home with basic hand tools. Set aside an hour the first time. Take photos as you go so reassembly is just working backwards.
- Isolate the power. Turn the dryer off at the wall and pull the plug out. Don’t rely on the button — physically unplug it so the machine can’t run while your hands are inside. If it’s wall-mounted, take it down and lay it on a padded surface.
- Remove the rear panel. The bearing lives at the back of the drum, so the rear cabinet panel comes off first. Undo the perimeter screws, lift the panel away, and photograph the belt and pulley layout before anything moves.
- Release the belt tension. Note how the drive belt routes around the drum, the motor pulley and the idler/tension pulley, then slip the belt off the tension pulley to free it. A phone photo here saves a lot of guesswork later.
- Withdraw the drum. With the belt off, ease the drum back off its front glides and lift it clear. It’s light but awkward — support its weight so you don’t drag the front felt across the metalwork.
- Remove the worn bearing and support. At the centre-rear of the drum you’ll find the old bearing seated in its support. Undo its fixings and lift it out, then compare it side-by-side with your new kit so you’re fitting like for like.
- Fit the new bearing and support. Seat the new 0206 kit exactly where the old one came from and secure it. Make sure it sits square — a bearing fitted off-centre will run rough from day one.
- Refit the drum and belt. Slide the drum back onto its front glides, then route the belt back around the drum and motor pulley exactly as your photos show and re-tension it over the idler. Turn the drum by hand a few times to check it spins freely and the belt tracks true.
- Refit the panel, plug in and test. Screw the rear panel back on, plug the dryer in, and run a short empty cycle. The squeal should be gone and the drum should turn smoothly and quietly.
When to call a technician vs DIY
A vented dryer is a plug-in appliance, so replacing a drum bearing doesn’t legally require a licensed electrician the way fixed wiring does — a competent person can do it at home. The one rule that matters is power: unplug the machine at the wall before you remove a single screw, and keep it unplugged the whole time your hands are inside.
Be honest about the mechanical side, though. If you can’t get the drum out cleanly, find the felt seals shredded or the belt perished as well, or spot damage you weren’t expecting, it’s worth booking a qualified appliance technician. Many of the tradies and keen DIYers who tackle this tell us the fiddliest part is getting the belt routed and tensioned correctly on reassembly, not the bearing swap — so take those photos before you pull anything apart. There’s no shame in handing it to a tech; a bearing kit in the box is still money saved if you supply the part.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney (order before 12pm). Not sure which one fits your model? Find your model number and match it against the fitment list on the part page before you order.
Frequently asked questions
How much is the Simpson/Electrolux drum bearing kit?
The drum bearing and support kit (part 0542377026, Oz ref 0206) is $24.45 AUD, verified live at the time of writing, dispatched same-day from our Sydney warehouse. The older single rear bearing (Oz ref 0205) is $9.95.
Is this a genuine part?
Yes — the kit is genuine part 0542377026. We fit it by your model number, so the safest way to confirm is to match your model sticker against the list in the table above.
Will it fit my model?
If your model sticker reads any of the Simpson SDV401/SDV501/SDV601/SDV457HQWA, the Electrolux EDV505/EDV605/EDV605S/EDV705HQWA/EDE605A, the LD- or K-series listed above, the 39-series, or the matching Hoover 3525/3530/5030/5040/5050 and D6174–D6772 models, then yes. If you’re unsure, run our part finder quiz or send us your model number and we’ll confirm before you buy.
My dryer squeals but the drum still spins — is it the bearing?
Usually, if the squeal or grind rises and falls with the drum and stops the moment the drum stops. Rule out a foreign object in the drum, a worn belt and a shot felt seal first — all cheaper or free to fix — and if the noise remains, the rear bearing is the cause.
Do I need the kit or just the single bearing?
For most models here the kit (0206) is the right call, because it replaces both the bearing and the support it seats into. The single bearing (0205) is for the older 39P-series machines where only the bearing itself has worn. If in doubt, the kit covers you.
How long does delivery take?
Orders placed before the daily cut-off ship same-day from our Sydney warehouse. Metro Sydney and the Northern Beaches are typically quickest, with the rest of Australia following standard courier timeframes.
Get your dryer running quietly again
Worked through the free checks — foreign object, belt, felt seal — and landed on the bearing? You can have the genuine kit on its way today. While you’re in there, it’s worth browsing the full dryer parts range for a fresh belt or felt seal so you don’t need a second delivery, and if you’re not certain the bearing is the fault, our Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux vented dryer repair hub walks through every common noise and fault by symptom.
**Buy the Drum Bearing & Support Kit — $24.45, same-day Sydney dispatch →**
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
