
Quick answer: F1 on a Westinghouse fridge means a fridge-compartment thermistor (temperature sensor) fault. The sensor is either dead (open circuit), short-circuited, or its connector has worked loose. It’s a $15–$25 part and takes about 30 minutes to replace with a screwdriver. The fridge will still cool with F1 showing, but inconsistently — replace the sensor within a week so you don’t lose food.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
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Find the right sensor for your Westinghouse fridge
What is the thermistor F1 is complaining about?
A thermistor is a small temperature-sensitive resistor — a bead about the size of a grain of rice on the end of a two-wire cable. Its resistance changes predictably with temperature, which is how the control board “reads” the fridge cavity in real time.
Westinghouse fridges have multiple thermistors, each with its own error code:
| Code | Sensor | Common cause |
|---|---|---|
| F1 | Fridge-compartment thermistor | Sensor dead or unplugged |
| F2 | Freezer-compartment thermistor | Sensor dead or unplugged |
| F3 | Defrost / evaporator thermistor | Sensor dead, ice on probe |
| F4 | Ambient (room) thermistor | Sensor dead (newer models only) |
| F5 | Defrost system not completing | Defrost heater, fan, or thermistor |
This guide covers F1 specifically.
Don’t replace the control board first
Generic advice will tell you to “call a technician” or that “the main control board has failed.” In the great majority of F1 cases the control board is fine — it’s the inexpensive thermistor that’s died, and the board is correctly reporting that fact. Don’t pay $400+ for a control board without testing the sensor first.
Where is the F1 thermistor on a Westinghouse fridge?
It depends on the model series. Australian Westinghouse fridges since 2008 fall into three main chassis families:
Top-mount freezer models (most common)
- Examples: WTB4600, WTB5200, WTB4404
- Location: top-rear of the fridge compartment, behind a small white plastic clip cover inside the air vent
- Access: no tools — pop the clip off
Side-by-side models
- Examples: WSE6100, WSE6200, WHE5200
- Location: rear-right wall of the fridge compartment, behind the deli drawer at the top
- Access: remove the deli drawer, then one screw on the sensor cover
French-door models (2014 onwards)
- Examples: WHE6000, WHE7000, WQE6000
- Location: top-centre of the fridge compartment, inside the air diffuser housing
- Access: remove the diffuser cover (two clips, no screws)
Step-by-step diagnosis (15 minutes)
Step 1: Power-cycle first (free)
Unplug the fridge for 5 full minutes — not 30 seconds; the control board needs time to fully discharge. Plug back in. If F1 doesn’t return within 24 hours, it was a transient glitch — leave it.
Step 2: Re-seat the connector
Many “dead” thermistors turn out to be a slightly unplugged connector behind the panel. Find the sensor (locations above), unclip the 2-pin connector, re-seat it firmly, and power-cycle again.
Step 3: Multimeter-test the thermistor
If F1 returns after re-seating:
- Unplug the fridge at the wall.
- Disconnect the thermistor’s 2-pin connector.
- Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω).
- Touch the probes to the thermistor’s two pins.
- Healthy at room temperature (25°C): 4,500–6,000 Ω (4.5–6 kΩ).
- Sit the sensor in a glass of ice water for 60 seconds and re-test. Healthy at 0°C: 27–33 kΩ.
Both readings in range → the sensor is fine; suspect the wiring loom or control board (see below). A reading of OL/infinity or 0 Ω → the thermistor is dead — replace it.
Order the replacement sensor
The Westinghouse fridge temperature sensor is a common spare, and the same sensor family fits Electrolux, Kelvinator and Chef fridges — the design is shared across the group. We stock them in our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse:
- Westinghouse / Electrolux / Kelvinator fridge temperature sensor — complete assembly — $24.95, in stock
- Westinghouse / Electrolux / Kelvinator fridge sensor — alternate complete assembly — $15.95, in stock
- Westinghouse double sensor harness (suits WHE5200, WRB5004, WHE5260 families) — $15.95, in stock
Not sure which one suits your model? Run your model number through the Part Finder — model in, exact-fit sensor out.
Worth doing while you’re in there: if your fridge is six or more years old, replace the freezer-side (F2) sensor at the same time. The sensors age together, and doing both now saves a second repair later.
Replace the thermistor (15 minutes)
- Power off at the wall.
- Remove the cover over the sensor (clips or one screw, depending on series).
- Disconnect the 2-pin connector.
- Pull the old sensor out of its mounting clip.
- Push the new sensor in.
- Reconnect the connector — it clicks into place. No polarity to worry about; thermistors are non-polarised.
- Refit the cover and plug back in. F1 should clear within 30 seconds.
When F1 isn’t the thermistor
If the sensor tests fine but F1 persists, the issue is upstream:
| Cause | How to spot it | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Damaged wiring loom (rubbed through or crimped by a panel) | Visible damage on inspection | $0–$25 (splice repair) |
| Corroded connector at the control board | Greenish residue on the pins | $0 (clean and re-seat) |
| Failed main control board | Multiple error codes, frequent reboots | $280–$480 |
Most F1 errors that aren’t the sensor are loose or corroded connectors — clean and re-seat before assuming the board is dead.
Should Westinghouse cover this under warranty?
If your fridge is under 2 years old, the manufacturer warranty almost certainly covers F1 — call Electrolux Group Australia (Westinghouse’s owner) on 1300 363 640.
If it’s 2–10 years old, you still have a strong case under Australian consumer guarantees: the ACCC has said a quality fridge should reasonably last around 10 years, and the consumer guarantee of acceptable durability survives the manufacturer warranty. Raise the claim with the retailer who sold you the fridge. If you’d rather just fix it today for the price of lunch, the DIY path below is hard to beat.
Repair cost summary (Australia 2026)
| Path | Cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| DIY: replacement sensor + multimeter test | $16–$25 | 45 min |
| Professional repair: sensor + call-out + labour | $200–$290 | 1-hour booking |
| Replacement fridge (mid-range top-mount) | $900–$1,500 | — |
The 50% rule: always repair an F1 on a Westinghouse fridge under 10 years old — the part is too cheap to justify replacing the appliance.
Frequently asked questions
My fridge shows F1 but the food is still cold — do I need to fix it?
Yes, within a week. With the sensor out of action the board runs a fallback cycle instead of reading the real cavity temperature, so the compartment drifts too cold or too warm — and eventually you lose food.
Can I just unplug the thermistor connector to clear F1?
No — the board still reports a fault because it expects a sensor reading. The sensor must be present and reading correctly for the error to clear.
My fridge shows both F1 and F2 — what does that mean?
Both the fridge and freezer thermistors are reading out of range at once. That points to a wiring loom or control board issue rather than two simultaneous sensor failures — inspect the loom first.
Are Westinghouse and Electrolux sensors interchangeable?
Often, yes — both brands are owned by Electrolux Group and share component platforms. Confirm fitment by running your model number through the Part Finder rather than guessing.
My fridge is older — does it even use a thermistor?
Westinghouse fridges made before about 2005 mostly used mechanical (capillary) thermostats and don’t display F-codes. From 2005 onwards most models switched to electronic thermistor control.
How long should the sensor last?
Typically 8–12 years. The bead itself is robust; the wiring insulation usually degrades first, which is why F1 often appears intermittently before the sensor dies completely.
How do I find my Westinghouse fridge model number?
The model sticker is inside the fridge compartment, usually on the left wall or behind the bottom crisper drawer. Model numbers start with WTB, WSE, WHE or WQE — enter it here and we’ll match the exact sensor.
Related guides
- Westinghouse fridge repair guide — common faults and fixes
- Fridge not cold but freezer works — diagnosis
- Fridge clicking noise — compressor won’t start
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit sensor out.
- Browse fridge and freezer parts
- Order before 12pm Sydney time → ships same day from our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
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