Appliance Spares
Quick answer: F2 on a Westinghouse fridge = a freezer or evaporator temperature sensor fault — usually the freezer-side thermistor or the defrost termination sensor on the evaporator coil. It’s a different sensor to F1 (the fresh-food side), but the fix path is the same: reset, inspect the wiring, then swap the sensor. The parts are $12–$17 and we stock them in our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse, same-day dispatch.
Find the right sensor for your Westinghouse fridge
F1 vs F2 on a Westinghouse fridge
Same fault family, different sensor.
| Code | Sensor location | What it controls |
|---|---|---|
| F1 | Fresh-food (fridge) compartment | Fridge temperature reference for the main control loop |
| F2 | Freezer or evaporator coil | Freezer temperature + defrost cycle timing |
Both are thermistor faults — the diagnostic flow is the same, just a different sensor at the end of it. Got F1 instead? See the Westinghouse F1 error guide.
What F2 actually means
The control board reads the freezer thermistor and, on most chassis, a defrost termination thermistor clipped to the evaporator coil itself. The board uses these to:
- Hold the freezer temperature within its target band.
- Time the auto-defrost cycle — it knows when the coil has reached the temperature that means “defrost finished, resume cooling”.
When either sensor reads outside the valid resistance range — open, shorted, or just noisy — the board throws F2 and falls back to a safety cycle: shorter run times, less efficient cooling.
The three checks — in order
1. Reset the fridge (5 minutes)
A power glitch can latch F2 even when the sensor is healthy.
- Switch the fridge off at the wall for 5 full minutes.
- Power back on, wait 30 minutes, check the display.
- If F2 doesn’t return within 24 hours, it was a transient — leave it.
If F2 comes back, the sensor is the next suspect.
2. Check for ice build-up around the evaporator (45 minutes — mostly wait time)
F2 plus visible frost on the back wall of the freezer means the defrost system has been running incorrectly on bad sensor data. Two consequences:
- Ice covers the evaporator coil → airflow restricted → freezer over-cold while the fridge compartment warms up.
- Ice can physically press on the sensor body and mask its true reading.
Quick partial fix: unplug the fridge for 24 hours with the doors open and towels at the base — a full natural defrost. If F2 clears afterwards, the sensor may still be the underlying culprit; it will come back if the sensor isn’t replaced.
3. Inspect the wiring, then replace the sensor (30–45 minute swap)
Pull the fridge out and drop the back cover. There are two sensors to check:
- Freezer compartment thermistor — a small probe clipped to the back wall inside the freezer.
- Defrost termination thermistor — clipped to the evaporator coil, behind the freezer’s back panel.
Wiring check: connector seated firmly at the control board, insulation intact (no pinches or chew marks), no corrosion on the pins.
If the wiring is good, replace the sensor. Match the part to your model range — all four are in stock in Sydney:
| Westinghouse model range | Part |
|---|---|
 N, BJ, FJ, FN, RJ series — 480NF, 510NF, 609NG, 610NE/NF, BJ414Q–BJ505S, FJ208S–FJ383Q, FN291F–FN360F, N210F–N640T, NB400F, RJ212S–RJ533S | Westinghouse / Kelvinator defrost termination sensor — $16.55 |
 Same model range — alternate fitment | Electrolux / Westinghouse defrost termination sensor — $14.55 |
 GR-572SF, N476C, RJ300M/P, RJ340M/P, RJ390M/P | Westinghouse fridge sensor controller assembly — $16.85 |
 GR-349SQF, GN-234SQA, GR-S592GC, GR-S642 | LG / Westinghouse defrost sensor termination thermostat — $11.95 |
Connector layout and resistance spec vary across chassis generations, so confirm your model number first — run it through the Part Finder and we’ll match the exact sensor.
The swap:
- Unplug the fridge.
- Empty the freezer (food into eskies with ice).
- Remove the back panel inside the freezer (3–4 screws).
- Locate the failed sensor on the coil or wall; unclip it and unplug the connector.
- Fit the new sensor — same clip location, same route for the wire.
- Refit the panel, power on, run for 30 minutes, and confirm F2 has cleared.
When F2 isn’t the sensor
Less common, but worth knowing:
- The defrost heater itself has failed — the coil never warms, the sensor reads “still frozen” forever, and the board logs a sensor fault as the proxy. Test the heater for continuity with a multimeter on the ohms range.
- Control board fault — a damaged sensor input pin. Rare on Westinghouse fridges, but it happens after a brownout or power surge.
- Wiring chewed by rodents — if you’re in a regional or semi-rural area, check the loom along its full length, not just at the connectors.
Frequently asked questions
What does the F2 error mean on a Westinghouse fridge?
F2 on a Westinghouse fridge means a freezer or evaporator temperature sensor fault — usually the freezer-side thermistor or the defrost termination sensor clipped to the evaporator coil. The control board reads the sensor as outside its valid range and falls back to a less efficient safety cycle.
What’s the difference between F1 and F2 on a Westinghouse fridge?
Same fault family, different sensor. F1 is the fresh-food (fridge) compartment sensor that feeds the main control loop; F2 is the freezer or evaporator coil sensor that controls freezer temperature and defrost timing. The diagnostic flow is the same for both.
How do I reset the F2 error on a Westinghouse fridge?
Switch the fridge off at the wall for 5 full minutes, power back on and wait 30 minutes. If F2 doesn’t return within 24 hours it was a power glitch — leave it. If the code comes back, the freezer sensor is the next suspect and likely needs replacing.
How much does a Westinghouse fridge freezer sensor cost in Australia?
The sensors that fix a Westinghouse F2 error cost $12-$17 depending on the model range — for example the Westinghouse/Kelvinator defrost termination sensor at $16.55 or the LG/Westinghouse defrost sensor at $11.95. Confirm your model number first, as connector layouts vary across chassis generations.
How long does it take to replace the freezer sensor on a Westinghouse fridge?
The swap takes 30-45 minutes: unplug the fridge, empty the freezer into eskies, remove the freezer’s back panel (3-4 screws), unclip the failed sensor, fit the new one in the same clip location, then refit the panel and run the fridge for 30 minutes to confirm F2 has cleared.
What if replacing the sensor doesn’t clear the F2 error?
Less common causes: the defrost heater itself has failed (test it for continuity with a multimeter on the ohms range), a control board fault after a brownout or surge, or wiring chewed by rodents — worth checking the full loom length in regional or semi-rural areas.
Related guides
- Westinghouse fridge F1 error — fridge-compartment sensor fix
- Westinghouse fridge repair guide — common faults and fixes
- Fridge icing up or not auto-defrosting? Defrost heater replacement
Ready to fix it?
- Run your model number through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit sensor out.
- Browse fridge and freezer parts
- Order before 12pm Sydney time → ships same day from our Sydney Northern Beaches warehouse, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
