Appliance Spares
Quick answer: Westinghouse and Kelvinator fridges fail in a short list of ways: a click and no start (start relay or overload), icing up and not defrosting (defrost heater or defrost termination thermostat), warm fridge with a cold freezer (evaporator fan or damper), and a thermostat that no longer cycles. Those parts sit in the $15–65 band and most clip or plug in. The sealed system is licensed-only work. Match the model number and PNC on the sticker inside the fridge before ordering.
Not sure which one fits? Match your model number or check the sticker inside the door.
Every Westinghouse fridge part we stock, by fault, is in the Westinghouse fridge parts guide; the rest of the brand is in the Westinghouse spare parts guide.
Quick answer: Five faults cover almost every Westinghouse fridge we see in our Sydney workshop — clicks every few minutes but won’t run (PTC starter relay, $30, not the $400 compressor a tech might quote); F1 or F2 on the display (temperature sensor); ice building up on the back wall (defrost termination thermostat); warm fridge, freezer still fine (defrost or relay); compressor humming briefly then quitting (starting capacitor or thermal fuse). All five are straightforward. And because Westinghouse / Kelvinator / Electrolux / Chef / Simpson share the same Adelaide-built platform, one part number usually covers all five brands — the PTC starter relay 1441033 alone fits 184+ models.
Browse all Westinghouse fridge parts
The Westinghouse story — why one part fits five brands
If you’ve ever stood in a parts catalogue trying to figure out whether your Westinghouse fridge takes the same defrost sensor as your mum’s Kelvinator or your neighbour’s Chef chest freezer — yes, it almost always does. Here’s why.
Westinghouse fridges in Australia have been built on a shared Electrolux Group manufacturing platform for decades — for many years out of the Beverley plant in Adelaide. Under the Electrolux umbrella you’ve got:
- Westinghouse — the mainstream AU mid-market brand
- Kelvinator — the older “everything but the kitchen sink” budget-to-mid line
- Electrolux — premium positioning, same internals
- Chef — historically more cooking-led, but shared fridge platforms
- Simpson — laundry-led, but the cross-brand fridges exist
Inside the cabinet, the PTC starter relay, the overload protector, the defrost termination thermostat, the compressor capacitor, the sensors — all the consumable bits — are the same part across the family. The badge on the door is marketing. The bolt-on parts behind the cardboard panel are engineering.
That’s why a single PTC relay part number (1441033) fits 184+ models across BJ, C, CS, EBE, EBM, EFM, ERM, ETE, ETM, FD, FJ, FN, FR, KBM, KTM, N, NB, RJ, RP, SB, SBM, SR, STM, WBE, WBM, WCM, WFM, WRM, WTE, WTM series. One part. Five brands. Two decades of fridges.
If you’ve been quoted a brand-specific part by a tech, get a second opinion — odds are there’s a cross-brand equivalent on our shelf for less.
Find your Westinghouse part now
Find your Westinghouse model number first
Three places to look — same as every fridge:
- Inside the fridge compartment, on the side wall — usually upper-left or upper-right, sometimes behind the salad crisper.
- On the back of the fridge — second sticker on the rear panel, near the top.
- Behind the kickplate at the bottom-front — pop the kick panel off, sometimes hidden in there.
Faded? Take a photo of the sticker location (even if you can’t read it) and send it through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — we ID the model from the internals.
Westinghouse model series decoder
| Prefix | What it tells you |
|---|---|
| N / NB | Standard top-mount fridge-freezer (N360, N420, NB400 etc) — the most common AU Westinghouse |
| RJ / RP | “Right-hinge / Refrigerator” range — top-mounts, similar platform to N |
| WBM / WTM | Bottom-mount freezer (freezer drawer at the bottom) |
| WBE / WTE / EBE / ETE / WCM | Larger family / pigeon-pair platform |
| BJ / FJ / FN / FR | Older Adelaide-built fridges, late ’90s through 2010s |
| C / CS / SB / SR | Vintage stock — we still keep parts for these |
| WSE / EBE / WCM-7000 | Side-by-side or larger French-door builds |
| GR-572SF / GN-234SQA / GR-S592GC / GR-S642 | LG-built Westinghouse-badged models — different sensor format |
Within each series the number tells you capacity (roughly). N360 = ~360L, N520 = ~520L. The trailing letters (F, H, J, S, T, V) are generation codes — F is older, V is more recent.
For all the Adelaide-built platform, parts cross-fit very freely across the alphabet. For the LG-built Westinghouse models (the GR- and GN- series), sensors and boards are LG-format — we stock those separately, see below.
The five faults — and the parts that fix them
1. Fridge clicks every 2-5 minutes but won’t run → PTC starter relay (the $30 fix)
The single most common Westinghouse fridge fault in our workshop, by a long stretch.
The symptom: click … silence … click … silence … every couple of minutes, no compressor running, fridge slowly warming up.
What’s actually happening: the compressor is a sealed motor with a start winding and a run winding. To kick into life it needs the start winding energised for half a second, then dropped out — the PTC starter relay does that job. When the relay fails (cracked ceramic disc, burnt contacts) the start winding never engages, the compressor draws locked-rotor current, and within seconds the overload protector trips on heat. A few minutes later it cools, resets, tries again — click — fails. That’s your noise.
The 10-minute diagnostic:
1. Unplug at the wall.
2. Pull the lower rear cover (2-6 screws). You’ll see the compressor — a black ball-shape — with a small plastic housing bolted to one side. That’s the relay + overload.
3. Unclip the relay and shake it. Rattles like a Tic-Tac packet = the PTC ceramic disc has cracked. Dead. Order the relay.
4. Visibly burnt, melted, or smudged black = also dead.
5. Looks fine, doesn’t rattle = swap it anyway. At $30 it’s cheaper than a callout.
The parts:
| Part | Suits |
|---|---|
 Westinghouse Electrolux PTC starter relay (1441033) | 184+ models across BJ, C, CS, EBE, EBM, EFM, ERM, ETE, ETM, FD, FJ, FN, FR, KBM, KTM, N, NB, RJ, RP, SB, SBM, SR, STM, WBE, WBM, WCM, WFM, WRM, WTE, WTM series |
 Westinghouse Electrolux compressor overload protector (1443933) | Same platform — pairs with the relay. They die together; swap both while you’re in there. |
Why it matters: we’ve had customers come through who were quoted $700-$1,400 for a new compressor when the actual fix was this $30 relay and a screwdriver. We don’t say that to bag techs out — the honest ones diagnose the relay first. But if the quote skipped straight to “the compressor’s gone”, get the relay tested before you sign anything.
Full diagnostic walkthrough: Fridge clicking every few minutes but not running
2. F1 on the display → fresh-food temperature sensor fault
Modern Westinghouse fridges run multiple thermistors (small temperature probes) feeding the control board. When the fresh-food compartment thermistor reads outside the valid resistance range — open, shorted, or drifted — the board throws F1.
Quick triage:
– Reset first. Switch off at the wall for 5 minutes, power back on. Power glitches and brownouts latch F1 sometimes. If it doesn’t return in 24 hours, transient.
– F1 comes back within hours → the sensor itself has drifted. Swap it.
– F1 alternating with F2 → check the shared wiring loom before assuming both sensors failed.
The parts — by platform generation:
| Model range | Part |
|---|---|
 N / BJ / FJ / FN / RJ series — 480NF, 510NF, 609NG, 610NE/NF, BJ414Q-BJ505S, FJ208S-FJ383Q, FN291F-FN360F, N210F-N640T, NB400F, RJ212S-RJ533S | Defrost / sensor termination thermostat (1412380) |
 Same models, alternate part number | Defrost sensor termination (1432898) |
 N620F, N640F, RS623S, RS625S, RS642S, RS643S | Defrost sensor termination (1433633) |
 LG-built Westinghouse: GR-572SF, N476C, RJ300M/P, RJ340M/P, RJ390M/P | Sensor controller assembly (6615JB2003J) |
 LG-built Westinghouse: GR-349SQF, GN-234SQA, GR-S592GC, GR-S642 | LG/Westinghouse defrost sensor termination (6615JB2005A) |
Sensor swaps are 30-45 minute jobs. Low-voltage, no refrigerant, no electrical licence required.
Full F1 walkthrough: Westinghouse fridge F1 error
3. F2 on the display → freezer or evaporator sensor fault
Same family of fault as F1, different sensor. F2 = the freezer thermistor or the defrost-termination thermistor on the evaporator coil has gone out of range.
Common companion symptom: ice building up on the back wall of the freezer. Because the defrost sensor is feeding bad data, the auto-defrost cycle never runs properly, ice doesn’t get cleared, airflow gets blocked, freezer over-cools and the fridge side starts warming up.
Quick partial fix: unplug the fridge for 24 hours with doors open, towels on the floor, full manual defrost. If F2 clears and stays clear, you got lucky — the ice was masking the sensor. If F2 returns within a week, the sensor is genuinely bad; replace it.
The parts: same lineup as F1 above — same platform, same sensors, same defrost-termination thermostats. The board uses these thermistors for both jobs (compartment reference + defrost timing) so the fault path is identical.
Full F2 walkthrough: Westinghouse fridge F2 error
4. Ice building up on the back wall of the freezer → defrost system failure
Every frost-free Westinghouse runs an auto-defrost cycle every few hours: the compressor cuts out, a small heater under the evaporator coil warms up, melts the frost that’s built up during cooling, water drips into the drain pan, and the system goes back to cooling. When any part of that loop fails, ice keeps accumulating on the coil until airflow is blocked.
Three things can break the loop on a Westinghouse:
- Defrost termination thermostat dead — the sensor that tells the board “coil’s warm enough, stop the heater”. When it fails the heater either never runs (ice keeps building) or runs forever (water everywhere when the system catches up).
- Defrost heater itself failed — the resistance element under the coil has gone open-circuit. Test with a multimeter on the ohms range; open = dead.
- Defrost timer / control board logic — rarer, but the board’s defrost cycle scheduling can drift after a brownout.
The parts: the defrost termination thermostat is the #1 fix here — same parts as the F1/F2 table above. 1412380, 1432898, 1433633, or 1403448 depending on your model. We also stock a thermal fuse assembly (1449012) — when the defrost system overheats, the thermal fuse blows as a safety; replace alongside the thermostat.
Browse Westinghouse defrost parts
5. Compressor or fan not starting cleanly → capacitor or thermal fuse
On certain Westinghouse / Electrolux fridges (mainly the newer EBE-, ETM-, WTM-, WCM- series with the 4uF wired-clip starting capacitor), the compressor or condenser fan won’t kick over cleanly on a cold start. Symptom is a low hum that quits after 5-10 seconds, then silence, then tries again — different rhythm to the PTC click in fault 1.
The part: Westinghouse Electrolux 4uF 400V capacitor with wired clip (1455680) — fits the BJ514V, EBE4300SD, EBE5100SD, EBM4300SD, ETM4200 range, FBE5107SD, HBE4307SD/5107SD, KCM/KTM/WCM/WTM range and others.
If the thermal fuse has popped (a small one-shot fuse on the defrost circuit, sacrificial part designed to fail before the heater catches fire) the symptom is no cooling at all and no compressor activity. The thermal fuse assembly (1449012) crosses the Electrolux / Westinghouse / Kelvinator / Simpson platform — one part for four brands.
Featured Westinghouse fridge parts
- Westinghouse PTC starter relay (1441033) — fits 184+ models
- Westinghouse compressor overload protector (1443933)
- Westinghouse defrost termination thermostat (1412380)
- Westinghouse defrost termination thermostat (1432898)
- Westinghouse defrost termination thermostat (1433633)
- Westinghouse 4uF 400V compressor capacitor (1455680)
- Westinghouse / Kelvinator / Simpson thermal fuse (1449012)
- LG / Westinghouse sensor controller (6615JB2003J)
- All Westinghouse fridge parts
Related guides
- Westinghouse fridge error codes — complete Australian guide
- Fridge clicking every few minutes but not running
- Westinghouse fridge F1 error
- Westinghouse fridge F2 error
- Find your Westinghouse fridge model number
- Fridge not cold but freezer works
FAQs
My Westinghouse fridge is clicking every few minutes — is the compressor gone?
Almost certainly not. The clicking-every-few-minutes pattern with no compressor run-time in between is the PTC starter relay or the overload protector — both $20-$40 parts. The compressor itself usually lasts 15-20 years. Get the relay tested before you accept a compressor quote. Full diagnostic: Fridge clicking every few minutes.
What’s the difference between F1 and F2 on a Westinghouse fridge?
Both are temperature sensor faults — F1 is the fresh-food (fridge) thermistor, F2 is the freezer or evaporator-coil thermistor. Same diagnostic flow (reset → inspect wiring → swap sensor), same parts on the same platform. If you’re getting both, check the shared wiring loom before assuming both sensors are dead.
My Westinghouse fridge is icing up on the back wall of the freezer — what’s broken?
The auto-defrost cycle has stopped working properly. Most common cause: the defrost termination thermostat (one of the 1412380 / 1432898 / 1433633 / 1403448 family) has failed and the heater isn’t running to clear frost off the coil. Less common but worth checking: the defrost heater itself has gone open-circuit. Full walkthrough in the F2 guide and the defrost section above.
I’ve got a Kelvinator C520H — does the 1441033 PTC relay fit?
Yes — the C520H is on the compatibility list for the 1441033. So are the C360H and C410H. The C-series, the BJ-series, the N-series, the RJ-series and the rest of the late-’90s through 2010s Kelvinator/Westinghouse top-mount range all share that relay.
Do you stock parts for the older BJ / FJ / FN / FR Westinghouse fridges?
Yes — we deliberately keep stock on the older Adelaide-built platform (most parts catalogues have dropped them). The 1412380 defrost thermostat fits the BJ414Q-BJ505S, FJ208S-FJ383Q, FN291F-FN360F and similar vintage models. Send your full model number through the Part Finder and we’ll match.
Will the 6615JB sensor for the GR-572SF fit my N-series Westinghouse?
No — the 6615JB-series sensors are for the LG-built Westinghouse-badged models (GR-, GN- and a handful of RJ-300/340/390 codes). The Adelaide-built N-series and the BJ/FJ/FN/RJ ranges use the 1412380 or 1432898 part numbers. Different platform, different sensor format.
How long should a Westinghouse fridge last in Australia?
The Adelaide-built platform is genuinely well-engineered for the AU climate — 15-20 years is normal for the compressor, with sensors and relays needing occasional replacement along the way. We routinely sell relays and sensors to customers whose fridges date from the early 2000s and are still working fine on a $30 part.
Is it worth fixing a 12-year-old Westinghouse fridge?
For cheap parts (relays, sensors, thermostats — under $100 each) almost always yes. For expensive parts (compressor swap with regas, main control board), it gets borderline. Past 15 years, repair only the cheap stuff. Past 20 years, only repair if the cost is trivial.
Ready to fix it?
Three ways to get the right part:
- Run your Westinghouse model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — fastest. Model in, exact-fit parts out.
- Browse all Westinghouse fridge parts — if you already know what you need.
- Send us a photo via the contact form — when the model sticker is unreadable. 20+ years on the Westinghouse / Electrolux / Kelvinator platform usually IDs it on sight.
Order before 12pm AEST → ships from our Sydney warehouse today, Australia-wide.
