Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common cause of a front-loader door that won’t lock, won’t start the cycle or won’t release afterwards is a worn door interlock switch — usually helped along by a worn door latch hook or handle that no longer pushes it fully home. Replacing both is a 20–30 minute screwdriver job on most machines. Below: symptom-by-symptom diagnosis, a brand table linking the six door lock and latch kits we stock (Fisher & Paykel, Haier, Bosch, Whirlpool, Beko, LG), and how to confirm the fault before buying.
Last updated August 2026
A washing machine door lock typically costs $30–47 AUD (median $39.55), as at August 2026. Each kit below adds the matching latch hook or handle and is priced below buying the two parts separately.
Interlock, latch or handle? Read the symptom first
The door interlock switch (the door lock) sits behind the front panel, holds the door shut during the cycle and tells the control board the door is closed. The door latch hook is the plastic tongue on the door that slides into the interlock’s slot. On many machines the hook is built into the door handle, which is why three of the six kits include a handle rather than a bare hook.
- Door error at the start of the cycle (dE or DE on Samsung and LG, E8 on Haier, E4 on Hisense, or a flashing door or padlock symbol): the interlock is not confirming “locked”. Interlock first — but inspect the hook, because a worn hook that no longer pushes the switch home gives the same code.
- Clicks when you press start, then nothing — no fill, no drum movement: the interlock has power but its internal switch has failed. Interlock.
- Door won’t stay shut, or springs open when you let go: worn hook or handle spring, or a chewed-out interlock slot. Usually both.
- Handle feels floppy, or the door needs a hip-shove to catch: handle or hook — and after months of slamming, usually the interlock too.
- Door won’t open at the end of the cycle: wait two to three minutes and check the drum has drained. Still locked with an empty drum means the interlock has failed in the locked position.
Door lock and latch kits by brand
The models shown are each kit’s headline models; the full list is on the product page. Confirm your model number on the model sticker inside the door opening or on the back panel before ordering.
| Brand | Headline models | Kit contents | Kit |
|---|---|---|---|
 Fisher & Paykel | WH7560J1, WH7560P1, WH8060P1, WH8560J1, WH8560P1 | H0024000128A door interlock switch + H0020100284A door latch hook | Fisher & Paykel Door Lock & Latch Kit |
 Haier | HWF75AW1, HWF75AW2, HWF80BW1, HWF85AW1, HWF85BW1, HWF90BW1 | H0024000128D door interlock + H0020100284A door latch hook | Haier Door Lock & Latch Kit |
 Bosch | WAS24460AU, WAS32742AU | 00619468 door interlock + 00615967 door latch | Bosch Door Lock & Latch Kit |
 Whirlpool | WFS1071AW, WFS1072AW, WFS1073CD, WFS1274AW, WFS1276AW | 481228058044 door interlock switch + 481249818361 door handle | Whirlpool Door Lock & Handle Kit |
 Beko | WM6167W, WM7127W, WM7147W, WM7167W, WMA610W, WMA620W, WMA747W | 2805310100 door interlock switch + 2813170100 door handle | Beko Door Lock & Handle Kit |
 LG | WD14030D6, WD14030FD6, WD14030RD6, WD14039D6, WD14070D6, WD1409NPE | EBF61315810 door interlock switch + 3650ER2005B door handle kit | LG Door Lock & Handle Kit |
All six sit in our Repair Kits category. Model not listed? Send us the model number and we’ll check which interlock and hook it takes.
Why the interlock and the latch wear together
Every time the door closes, the plastic hook slides into the interlock’s slot and pushes a small switch home. Over a few thousand washes the hook rounds off and the slot wears wide. A rounded hook stops pushing the switch far enough, so the board sees “door open” on a shut door; a worn slot lets the door rattle, which hammers the hook and speeds the wear.
That is why fitting only one part so often disappoints. A new interlock behind a worn hook still gets an incomplete push, and the door error is back within weeks. A new hook in a chewed-out interlock still sits loose. Both parts come out in the same 20–30 minutes with the same screwdriver, so there is no labour saving in doing them separately.
A kit is the right call when the fault is intermittent, the door has been slammed to catch for a while, or the hook shows wear — one delivery, one strip-down, priced below the two parts bought separately. A single interlock is enough when it failed outright and the hook is still crisp and tight. The honest con of the handle kits: swapping a handle assembly usually means separating the door halves, which is fiddlier than a bare hook swap — allow the top end of the time estimate.
Confirm the fault before you buy anything
- Unplug the machine and turn off the taps. Interlocks carry mains voltage.
- Look at the hook. Wiggle it side to side. A healthy hook is firm with square edges; rounded, cracked or wobbling means latch or handle.
- Look at the interlock slot. Shine a torch into it. Cracked plastic or a slot visibly wider than the hook points to the interlock, and usually the pair.
- Listen. Plug back in, close the door, press start. A clean click then a door error is the interlock’s switch; no click at all can be the interlock, its connector or the board.
- Clear the code. Power off at the wall for a minute and retry. A fault that clears and returns is wear; one that never clears is failure.
Fitting a door lock and latch kit
Unplug, taps off. Open the door, ease the outer spring band off the door seal at the lock side and peel the seal lip back to reach behind the front panel. Undo the screws holding the interlock through the panel, draw it out, unplug it and fit the new one. For a bare latch hook, undo its screws on the door and swap it. For a handle kit, separate the door halves, lift out the old handle and spring, and seat the new assembly. Refit the seal band, plug in and run a rinse cycle to confirm the lock clicks, the machine fills and the door releases.
Brand notes and related guides
This is the kit spoke of our door lock and interlock diagnosis hub, which also covers manual release, child locks and drain faults. Error-code guides: Samsung dE, LG dE/DE, Haier E8 and Hisense E4.
Fisher & Paykel and Haier share manufacturing platforms, and the two kits share the same door latch hook; only the interlock differs. The Fisher & Paykel kit matches the WH7560, WH8060 and WH8560 models on its list; the Haier kit matches the HWF75AW, HWF80BW, HWF85AW, HWF85BW and HWF90BW models on its list. The AN1 machines take a different interlock: Haier door interlock switch for HWF75AN1, HWF85AN1 and HWF80AN1.
Bosch. The Bosch kit is for the WAS24460AU and WAS32742AU. The latch is separate from the handle here, so a broken handle on the WAS24460AU needs the Bosch silver door handle instead.
Whirlpool. The Whirlpool kit pairs the interlock with a full handle for the WFS1071, WFS1072, WFS1073, WFS1274 and WFS1276 models on its list, whose hook is part of the handle. The Whirlpool door handle is sold alone for a spring-only fault.
Beko. The Beko kit covers WM, WMA, WMD and WME models. Beko’s BFL models take a different lock — the Beko door switch for BFL8510W and BFL103ADW — so check the model sticker first.
LG. The LG kit is the dE-code fix for the WD14030D6 and the other models in the table: the EBF61315810 interlock plus the handle kit.
Electrolux and Euromaid owners: see the Electrolux door lock switch and Euromaid door interlock switch guides.
When it isn’t the lock
- Something in the way. A sock or a folded door seal lip between hook and slot gives a door error with nothing worn.
- Water still in the drum. Machines refuse to unlock with water above the door line. Run a drain or spin; if it won’t drain, the pump or filter is the fault, not the lock.
- Child lock. A padlock symbol lit on a door that works is usually the child-lock setting.
- Board or wiring. A new interlock that never clicks points upstream — connector, loom or control board.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need both parts, or just the interlock?
If the hook or handle shows wear, or the fault has been intermittent, fit both — a new interlock behind a worn hook brings the same symptom back within weeks. If the interlock failed outright and the hook is crisp and tight, the interlock alone will do.
The door won’t open after the cycle — is that the interlock?
Not always. Wait two to three minutes after the cycle ends and check the drum has drained. If it is empty and the door still won’t release after powering off at the wall, the interlock has failed in the locked position.
Are the Fisher & Paykel and Haier door kits interchangeable?
They share the H0020100284A door latch hook, but the interlocks differ — H0024000128A in the Fisher & Paykel kit, H0024000128D in the Haier kit. Match your model number to the kit’s list rather than swapping between them.
How long does the job take, and do I need a tradie?
A bare interlock and hook swap is 20–30 minutes with a screwdriver; handle kits take a little longer because the door halves come apart. Most owners do it themselves, or hand the kit to a local repairer.
My model isn’t in the table — which kit do I order?
Check the model sticker inside the door opening or on the back panel, then use the part finder or send us the model number and we’ll check it. We’re on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and ship Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
