Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A Hisense washing machine inlet valve (water inlet solenoid valve) opens to let water into the drum or detergent drawer when the control board asks for it. The first sign of failure is usually this: the machine hums or clicks at the start but no water arrives, or a fill error shows. Replacement inlet valves for Hisense washing machines run about $30–50; a valve is a modest part and a thirty-minute job. Match the full model number on your Hisense sticker (HWFE7510, HWFR6510S, HWFV7512, HWV7512 and more) against the listing title before you order.
Genuine Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve K1922772 HWFE7510 HWV7512In stock · Sydney warehouseView part- Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve K1577212 suits HWFR6510S 0706In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
- Hisense Washer Won't Drain Fix Kit — Drain Pump + Inlet Valve (HWFS Series)In stock · Sydney warehouseView part
Fit check: the model number on your sticker must appear in the listing title — the badge on the front is not enough. All washing machine parts · Not listed? Send us the model number and we match it before you pay.
Not sure it is worth fixing? See what repair and replacement cost
Last updated October 2026
What the inlet valve does on a Hisense washing machine
The inlet valve opens to let water into the drum or detergent drawer when the control board asks for it. On Hisense washing machines sold in Australia the same part is shared across model families, which is why one listing covers several model numbers, and why two inlet valves that look alike are not interchangeable: the outlet count, the plug and the mounting differ between families. The full model number on your sticker settles it.
Turn off both taps and pull the plug first. A valve change is low-voltage work behind a panel; if wiring looks burnt, stop and call a repairer.
Symptoms of a failed Hisense inlet valve
| What you see | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| The machine hums or clicks at the start but no water arrives, or a fill error shows | A solenoid has failed open-circuit, or the inlet filter is blocked |
| Water keeps trickling in with the machine off | The valve is not closing fully; grit on the seat |
| The detergent drawer fills on one side only, or soap is left behind | One coil of a twin or triple valve is dead |
| A drip or spray at the back of the machine behind the hoses | The valve body or a hose seat has cracked |
Is it really the inlet valve?
Check the free things first. Both taps fully open, the inlet hoses not kinked behind the machine, and the small mesh filters at the tap end of each hose rinsed clean. Low pressure from a half-open tap gives the same fill error as a dead valve. If water arrives but the machine still complains, it is more likely the pressure switch or the board than the valve.
Where is the model sticker on a Hisense washing machine
Inside the door opening, on the rim, or behind the detergent drawer. Write the full code down, letters and numbers, or photograph it: the suffix matters, and the badge on the front of the machine is not enough. Our Hisense model number guide has photos of each spot.
Which Hisense inlet valve is listed for your model
One row per model number as it appears on the sticker. The part column is the listing title, which names every model that listing covers.
| Model on your sticker | Inlet Valve listed for it |
|---|---|
 HWFE7510 | Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve HWFE7510 HWV7512 |
 HWFR6510S | Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve suits HWFR6510S |
 HWFV7512 | Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve HWFV7512 |
| HWV7512 | Hisense Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve HWFE7510 HWV7512 |
 W10282297 | Hisense w46197043590 Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve W10282297 suits XQG70-HR1014 |
| XQG70-HR1014 | Hisense w46197043590 Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve W10282297 suits XQG70-HR1014 |
Model not in the table? Send us the full model number and we check the inlet valve against it before you pay.
Before you order a Hisense inlet valve
Inlet valves differ in the number of coils, the outlet count and angle, the hose spigot size and the mounting, and a valve with the right coil count but the wrong outlet angle will not reach the drawer hoses. Count the outlets on the old valve and the hoses that connect to them, note whether the inlet is a straight or a right-angle thread, and compare that with the listing photo after you have matched the full model number on your sticker against the title. Some machines sold under one brand name use a valve from another maker, so the listing may name a different brand; the model numbers are what count. If your model is not in any title, send it to us with a photo of the old valve before you order.
Replacing the inlet valve: the job in order
- Turn off both taps, pull the plug and unscrew the inlet hoses at the back; have a towel ready.
- Remove the top panel (usually two or three screws at the back) and find the valve where the hoses enter.
- Photograph every plug and hose on the valve. Note which internal hose goes to which outlet.
- Release the hose clips and plugs, undo the one or two screws that hold the valve to the cabinet, and lift it out.
- Install the new valve, reinstall the internal hoses to the same outlets, plug in, and screw it down.
- Reconnect the inlet hoses, open the taps and check for drips before you reinstall the top panel. Run a short cycle and watch the fill.
DIY or a repairer?
For most people this is a DIY job: a valve is a modest part and a thirty-minute job. A repairer’s call-out in Australia is in the $100–165 band before the part, so the saving is the labour. Use a licensed repairer if the appliance is hard-wired, if you find burnt or melted wiring, if gas or sealed refrigerant is involved, or if the new part does not cure the fault, because the next suspect is usually the control board and that is fitted after diagnosis, not before.
Frequently asked questions
The machine will not fill but I can hear it trying. Is it definitely the valve?
Not yet. Turn the tap off, unscrew that hose at the machine end, point it into a bucket and open the tap: if the flow is weak, clean the hose filter or the tap is the problem. If the flow is strong, the hose goes back on and the valve is the next suspect. A valve that hums but passes no water has a blocked seat or a dead coil.
Is the valve the same across the range?
No. The number of outlets, the coil voltage, the hose sizes and the mounting differ. Match the full model number on your sticker against the listing title.
Do I need to turn the water off at the mains?
No, only at the two taps behind the machine. If a tap will not close, that is a plumber's job before anything else.
Why do valves fail?
Grit and scale on the seat stop them closing, and coils burn out with age. Rinse the hose filters once a year and most valves last the life of the machine.
Can I keep using the machine with one dead coil?
You can, but the detergent or softener will not be flushed through on that side. Install the valve.
The machine fills but very slowly. Valve or water pressure?
Fill a bucket from the tap behind the machine. If the bucket fills slowly, the problem is the tap or the house supply. If the tap flow is strong, pull the hose filters and clean them; if they are clean and the fill is still slow, a coil is weak or the seat is partly blocked and the valve is due.
Does a new valve need a new hose?
Not usually, but check the hose washers while you are there: a flattened washer leaks at the new valve and looks like a faulty part.
How fast does a Hisense inlet valve arrive?
Parts in stock in Sydney are dispatched the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time, with $10.60 flat delivery Australia-wide and free delivery over $149. Most of Australia sees the part within a few business days.
Get the right inlet valve first time
Photograph the sticker, match the full model number against the listing title, and if anything is unclear send us the code. In stock in Sydney and dispatched the day you order when it’s in by 12pm Sydney time. Browse all washing machine parts or the brand shelves.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
