Appliance Spares
Quick answer: A dryer that hums but the drum does not turn, or squeals and smells of warm rubber, has a worn or snapped drive belt. Belts are brand-specific by length and rib count and sit in the $10–50 band; the swap is the front or rear panel off, belt over the drum and around the motor pulley, tensioner back on. Match the model number on the door rim or back panel, and if the squeal survives a new belt, the idler pulley or rear drum bearing is next.
The part that fixes this
- Simpson Sirocco 350 455 500 550 Dryer Fan Belt (Heavy Duty)
- Simpson Dryer Fan Belt — Fits Minimax, Maxidry & Sirocco
- Solt 7kg Vented Dryer Drum Belt Suit GGSVD7
Not sure it is the same on your machine? See every part listed by model number.
Last updated September 2026
Which dryer belt fits: by brand
| Brand and family | The belt |
|---|---|
 Simpson Sirocco 350–550, Maxidry, Minimax | Simpson Sirocco dryer fan belt, heavy duty · Simpson dryer fan belt — Minimax, Maxidry, Sirocco |
 Solt vented 7 kg and 4.5 kg | Solt 7 kg vented dryer drum belt (GGSVD7) · Solt and Inalto 4.5 kg dryer fan belt (GGSVDE45W, IVDE45W) |
 Stirling heat pump (SHPD80W family) | Stirling heat pump dryer drum drive belt (SHPD80W, GGSHPD80W) |
 Esatto vented and heat pump | Esatto dryer drum belt (EVD7) · Esatto 8 kg heat pump dryer drum drive belt (EHPD80) |
 Hisense heat pump | Hisense heat pump dryer belt (HDHA80, HDGE80H) · Hisense heat pump dryer belt (HDGA90H, HDGE90H) |
 Westinghouse and Electrolux vented (LD500B, LD505EB, LD605EB) | Westinghouse and Electrolux dryer belt, idler pulley and rear drum bearing kit |
Not listed? Search your model number on the site or use the dryer spare parts guide, which covers every brand we stock.
Quick answer: Replacing a dryer drum belt is a 30-minute DIY job with hand tools — Phillips, nut driver, and a pair of pliers. Symptom = drum won’t turn but the motor hums, or won’t turn at all, or you hear a squeal that rises with the cycle. The pattern is the same across most AU vented dryers: power off, pop the front or top panel, lift the drum out, loop the new belt over the drum and around the motor pulley + idler, reverse to reassemble. Brand-specific notes for F&P, Westinghouse, Simpson, Electrolux, Haier, Euromaid and LG below. Order the belt by model first — same-day Sydney dispatch.
How to tell it’s the belt (not the motor, not the capacitor)
Three classic patterns:
- Motor hums but the drum doesn’t turn. Open the door, give the drum a hand-spin. If it spins way too freely with no resistance, the belt has snapped or jumped off the pulley.
- Squealing or chirping that gets louder as the cycle goes on. The belt is glazed and slipping on the motor pulley, or the idler pulley bearing has seized and is dragging.
- Completely dead drum, no hum at all. That’s usually motor, capacitor, thermal cut-out or door switch — not the belt. Different fault tree. See our dryer not turning on diagnostic spoke first.
Belt cost vs service visit cost makes this one of the cleanest swaps on a household appliance. No licensed-trade work — low-voltage, mechanical only.
What you’ll need
- Replacement drum belt matched to your model — don’t start the job without it in hand. Belts come in different lengths (1915mm, 1930mm, 1966mm, etc.) and rib counts. The wrong one won’t tension.
- Phillips head screwdriver.
- 1/4″ nut driver or socket set — most AU dryer cabinet screws are 7mm or 8mm hex-head.
- Pliers (long-nose helps for the idler spring).
- Phone camera — photograph belt routing, idler spring position, and any wiring before you unplug anything.
- A drop sheet or old towel — there’s 10 years of lint dust waiting to fall out.
30 minutes start to finish for most vented dryers. Condenser and heat-pump dryers add 10-15 minutes of extra panel work.
Universal procedure (vented dryer)
Step 1: Power off at the wall (60 seconds)
Unplug it. Don’t trust the cabinet switch.
Step 2: Drop the dryer off the wall bracket (2 minutes)
Wall-mounted dryers: lift the cabinet up off the two hooks on the bracket and set it on the floor on its side or its back — whichever gives you access to the screws holding the front or top panel.
Floor-standing dryers: pull it out from the wall, far enough to work behind and in front.
Step 3: Open the cabinet (5 minutes)
Most AU vented dryers (Simpson, Westinghouse, Electrolux, Euromaid, Heller, Lemair-pattern) open one of two ways:
- Front panel off: 2-4 screws across the top edge of the front panel (sometimes hidden behind the door seal), tilt the front panel forward, lift it off the lower locating tabs.
- Top panel off: 2 screws at the back of the top, slide the top panel back ~10mm and lift it off.
F&P vented dryers and most condenser/heat-pump dryers need the top off first, then the front. Look for screws hidden under the lint filter housing or under stickers.
Step 4: Photograph the old belt path (60 seconds)
Before anything moves: photograph the belt as it sits — looped around the drum, around the motor pulley (small, on the motor shaft), and around the idler pulley (spring-tensioned arm). The route is the single most-forgotten detail when reassembling.
Step 5: Release the idler and remove the old belt (3 minutes)
The idler pulley is the tensioning arm — a spring-loaded plastic or metal arm with a small wheel that the belt loops around. Push the idler arm toward the motor pulley to slack the belt, then slip the belt off the motor pulley. Lift the broken belt (or the intact-but-stretched belt) off the drum.
If the belt is in two pieces because it snapped — same idea, just pull the pieces out.
Step 6: Lift the drum out and inspect (5 minutes)
Slide the drum forward and out of the cabinet. While it’s out:
- Drum rollers — spin them by hand. They should rotate smooth and silent. Gritty or seized rollers = replace them now, while the dryer is open. Cheap part, and they’ll fail next.
- Idler pulley — spin it. Same test. Seized idler is the #1 cause of “I just put a new belt on and now it’s squealing again”.
- Lint everywhere — vacuum it out. 10 years of compressed lint behind the drum is a fire risk.
Step 7: Fit the new belt (5 minutes)
- Loop the new belt around the drum first. Match the orientation of your old belt — most AU drum belts (4PH, 6PH, 7PH, 8PH multi-rib pattern) run the ribs against the motor and idler pulleys, smooth back against the drum. Your Step-4 photo is your reference.
- Slide the drum back into the cabinet with the belt sitting in the same position the old belt was (refer to your Step 4 photo).
- Reach down, route the belt under the idler pulley, then around the motor pulley. The idler arm tensions the belt automatically once you release it.
Step 8: Hand-spin to check (60 seconds)
Rotate the drum by hand. The belt should track centrally, not creep off the edge, and the idler arm should sit at roughly the same angle as before. Any wobble or rubbing = re-seat before you close it up.
Step 9: Refit panels and test (5 minutes)
Front panel back on, top panel back on, plug in, run a short cycle empty. Listen for any squeal, watch for any smoke from old lint that escaped the vacuum. All quiet? Done.
Brand-specific notes
Fisher & Paykel (vented + heat-pump)
- Vented dryers (DE60F60 series): the matched belt is the 8PH1966 profile. F&P dryer drive belt — fits DE60F60W1, DE60F60NW1.
- DH-series heat-pump: the fan belt is a separate part — small toothed belt on the blower motor. Genuine F&P dryer fan belt 2EPJ741 — fits DH8060P1.
- Aerosmart / SmartLoad column dryers: different platform — call us before ordering, we’ll match by serial.
Westinghouse, Simpson, Electrolux
- The big shared SKU: the 1930mm belt p/n 0198-300-010 fits a huge slab of the Eziset, Loader and Maxidry families. Simpson / Westinghouse Eziset & Loader dryer belt 1930mm — same belt as the Electrolux 1930mm version.
- Sensor dryers (EDV5552, EDV6552, EDV5051, EDV6051): different belt — Electrolux sensor dryer drum belt.
- Older Simpson Minimax / Maxidry / Sirocco: these have a small fan belt (separate from the drum belt). Simpson Minimax fan belt 0210. When you do the drum belt, do the fan belt at the same time — both cost less than a service visit.
- Idler pulley kit: the Electrolux idler pulley 0197300040 + drum belt 7PH1930 combo saves you a second strip-down six months later when the idler bearing goes.
Euromaid, Baumatic, Heller, Mezzo, Pye, GVA (shared 6PH1915 platform)
These badges share the same shared platform. Same belt fits most:
- Euromaid / Baumatic dryer drive belt 6PH1915 — fits DE6KG, BVD50, E6KDEW.
- Mezzo / Pye / GVA belt 6PH1915 — fits MCD5E, CD055ELEC, CD06ELEC, CD06.
- Heller cloth dryer belt 6PH1915 — CD55, CD56, CD85ELEC.
- Heat-pump variants (EHPD700G, EHPD700GW): different belt — Euromaid heat pump dryer drum belt.
Haier (vented + condenser)
- Vented (HDY6-1, HDY5-1, GDZ5 series): Haier cloth dryer drive belt 8PH1966 — same 8PH1966 profile as the F&P vented belt (Haier owns F&P).
- Condenser HDY-C70: Haier 7kg condenser dryer belt.
LG (vented + Direct Drive condenser)
- TD-C / TD-V 7kg series: LG 7kg dryer drive belt 1985H8 — fits TD-C700E, TD-C70040E, TD-V700E, TD-V70120E.
- LG condenser and heat-pump platforms vary — confirm by model.
Beko
- Heat-pump dryers (BDPB904HG, BDPB802SW, DPE7400, DPY8500, DPY7504XB1, DPU7360GX): Beko dryer drum drive belt.
- Heat-pump alt platform (BDP710W, BDP810W, BDP83HW): Beko heat-pump dryer drum belt.
Other AU brands (Robinhood, Omega, Esatto, Stirling, Midea, Lumina) — all stocked. Run your model through the Part Finder.
Parts for this job
These are the belts and tensioning parts we hold for the dryers people bring to this guide. Everything listed is in stock, ships from Sydney, and carries its own fitment list on the part page. Drum belts typically run $8 to $35 depending on brand and length, and the belt, idler pulley and drum bearing kits sit in the $45 to $50 band.
Simpson, Westinghouse — Eziset and Loader
Electrolux — EDV sensor dryers
Simpson — 39S500M, 39S600M, 39P400M
Simpson — Eziloader and Eziset
Fisher & Paykel — DE-series vented
Fisher & Paykel — DH-series heat pump
Haier — HDV vented
Haier — HDHP heat pump
Euromaid, Baumatic — DE6KG, BVD50, E6KDEW
LG — TD-C and TD-V 7kg
Beko — heat pump dryers
LG — RV1329 seriesOne number is worth checking first: the 1930mm belt 0198-300-010 is shared right across the Simpson, Westinghouse and Electrolux vented range, so a single part covers a large slab of AU laundries. Everything else on this list is model-matched, and a belt of the wrong length will not tension no matter how it is routed.
Not sure which one fits? Send a photo of the model sticker through our contact page and we’ll match it.
Parts that fix this
In stock now and dispatched the same day from Sydney. Not sure which one fits your model? Run your model through the part finder and we will confirm before you order.
FAQs
How do I know if my dryer belt is broken vs just slipping?
Open the door and hand-spin the drum. Spins freely with zero resistance = belt is snapped or jumped off the pulley. Drum turns but you hear a squeal or chirp that rises with the cycle = belt is glazed and slipping, or the idler pulley bearing is dragging. Drum won’t turn at all and there’s no hum from the motor = different fault (motor, capacitor, thermal cut-out or door switch) — not the belt.
Can I use a “universal” dryer belt or does it have to be model-matched?
Model-matched, always. Belts come in different lengths (1915mm, 1930mm, 1966mm, 1985mm) and rib counts (4PH, 6PH, 7PH, 8PH). A belt that’s too short won’t fit; a belt that’s too long won’t tension and will slip back off the pulley. Get the right one the first time.
While I’ve got the dryer apart, what else should I check?
Drum rollers (spin them — should be smooth and silent), the idler pulley (same test — seized idler is the #1 reason a freshly-replaced belt squeals), and the lint trap path behind the drum (vacuum it out — 10 years of compressed lint back there is a fire risk). Belt + idler kits are cheap insurance against opening the dryer up again in six months.
Do I need to discharge a capacitor when replacing a dryer belt?
For the belt swap itself, no — it’s mechanical only. But if you’re working near the motor wiring or pulling the motor to inspect, unplug the dryer at the wall first (don’t trust the cabinet switch), and if your model has a run capacitor on the motor, discharge it across the terminals with an insulated screwdriver before touching the connectors.
My new belt squeals as soon as I close the dryer up — what did I miss?
Almost always a seized idler pulley. The new belt is fine, but the idler bearing is gummed and dragging. Pull the idler, spin it by hand — if it doesn’t turn smooth and silent, replace it. The other common cause is the belt running ribs-out instead of ribs-in against the motor pulley — check your Step 4 photo.
Related guides
- Dryer not heating but still spinning — when the belt is fine but the heat isn’t.
- Fisher & Paykel washing machine repair (Australia) — same panel-off approach for F&P appliances.
- Haier washing machine repair (Australia) — Haier owns F&P; the platform logic carries over.
- Part Finder Quiz — model in, exact-fit belt and idler kit out.
Ready to fix it?
- Run your dryer model through the Oz Appliance Spares Part Finder — model in, exact-fit drum belt, fan belt and idler pulley out.
- Browse dryer parts — drum belts, idlers, rollers, motor pulleys.
- Order before 12pm AEST ships from our Sydney warehouse same day, Australia-wide.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
